Tactical knives have lots of uses. The uses of the knife I carry as a civilian is different from the uses I had while in the military. I carried two knives in the military, a tactical folder and a fixed blade fighting knife. I pulled the fighting knife in defense only once, but I used the folder a million times in many uses. As a civilian my needs are completely different. I don’t ever plan to use a knife in defense, although I’ve had training to use it that way. It would be an absolute last resort for me. So when I look at a knife, I look at it two fold, utility and defense. Unless it’s a neck knife, I would only carry a tactical folder. On my bug out bag and tac vest are fixed blade fighting knives. Often, my multi-tool knife blade is the only knife I have with me. But I have several tactical folders.
One of the first thing I will look at is the manufacturer. I know you often pay for a name, but there is a reason for that. Most brands I can trust because they have a reputation. Once in a while a brand name will put out a cheap model. I’ve seen it in Schrade and Buck. These brands are usually very good but you have to inspect a less pricy blade to make sure. Usually you get what you pay for unfortunately.
You should look for balance, blades that don’t wobble, positive locking systems and ease of deployment.
Steel
The steel used in knife making is the soul of the blade. Every aspect of knife making is a compromise. A blade that holds an edge well could be the one that is harder to sharpen or so inflexible that it could snap when given lateral stress. A blade that has the best edge could also be the one that oxidizes or stains easily.
Creating a knife blade is part science, part art. Knife makers can control the characteristics of a blade by the type of steel, the way it is formed, the shape of the blade and the way it is tempered. Knife makers are constantly on a quest for better steel and modern tool-steels are getting better.
It is impossible to rate knife steels from best to worst. It is also impossible to guess the tempering of the tool just by looking at it. It is possible, however, to make a few recommendations for knives based on a majority of cutting tasks. Steel performance takes into account strength, the blade’s ability to resist lateral stress, toughness, the blade’s ability to resist chipping, resistance to abrasion, and hardness. There are other factors, but knowing these major qualities is probably enough information to help select a knife. There are several common steels used for tactical knives, which include 440C, ATS 34 (154 CM), D2, and AUS 8. There are dozens of other types of steel, but this is a good start.
Locking Blade
A locking blade should be mandatory for folding knives. There are several different methods for keeping a blade locked open, including locks in the liner (the material that surrounds the blade when closed), and locks in the spine.
Should you get an automatic knife? Inherently, they are not as strong or reliable as a locking folder, but having said that, some automatics are like cousins of reliable locking mechanisms. Make sure an assisted open knife is legal in your area or state.
Handle
Handle materials can be wood, plastic, aluminum or “micarta.” Micarta tends to be resistant to most elements and harder than other materials. Wood looks great but is harder to pin or epoxy in place. Aluminum tends to make the user sensitive to temperature extremes. Space Age materials similar to polymers are excellent for keeping the knife durable, low priced and lightweight. The handle’s materials, or scales, should be textured to improve the grip and hold it in the pocket until needed.
Knife makers began using Torx screws to secure the pocket clip, often offering the “tip up” or “tip down” option.
Liner
The liner material is just as important as the handle. If the knife does not have a liner made of durable materials such as aluminum or steel, it is likely the hinge pin will loosen easily and the handle will fail under extreme use. Select a knife with a liner material that, put together, approximates the width of the blade; that is, the aluminum or steel that surrounds the blade when the knife is closed should be as thick as the blade itself. This will ensure the blade open smoothly, even when after you have been rolling on the ground a bit.
If there is no liner, the knife may have been assembled using steel pins in a plastic frame, or no pins in a molded frame. This is desirable in a lightweight knife, but not recommended.
Design
Tactical knives usually come in geometric, wedge-shaped reinforced designs, or drop-point utility designs. While the geometric designs are cool, the drop point ones will offer more consistent cutting surfaces. Double-edged blades also are eye candy, but not quite as useful.
Some blade makers have blade designs which open the blade upon their withdrawal from the pocket.
Is it advisable to purchase a custom knife? A custom knife is a purchase made for pride in ownership. If you can afford to purchase one, you will enjoy some of the intangible qualities of a good knife, like polished interiors (which make mechanisms buttery smooth), hand-selected materials, and custom tempering.
A moderately priced knife from a reputable manufacturer will give you years of use, with reliability and peace of mind.
Knives are important parts of EDC that are often taken for granted until they are needed. I’ve always been picky about my knives, and I swear I’m not a knife guy. But I have a large collection anyway. I enjoy knives as works of art and in the same way I enjoy a good-looking gun. But they will never replace my infatuation with firearms.
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn