The John Bunyan Trail (7) Haynes & Wilstead

 

Welcome to Haynes

It's a miserable day to be back on 'The Bunyan Trail'. The forecast doesn't offer much encouragement either. Wet getting colder and wetter would seem to be the outlook. It's great to be back out again though. Illness and injury have laid me low for at least the past couple of weeks. One of those bugs that seems to go around all to frequently finally caught up with me. Theres a lot of it about, so I'm told. Looking online I seemed to display all the symptoms in more or less the right order. Starting with feeling exhausted days 1,2 and 3. Day 4 & 5 shivering and aching from tip to toe. Days 6 & 7 Sneezeathon and continuous runny nose. Currently waiting on an MRI scan for the dodgy left knee. The right one has flared up too. I also have an appointment in March to see a Specialist about my Hernia into the bargain. It's a wonder I get out at all really.. We park up close to the crossroads in the small village of Haynes, around seven miles south of Bedford. Today's walk will be a fairly short one around 7 and a half miles. It is a bit of a 'filler' linking up two other walks that have been quite difficult to plan.Anyway, against all the odds it has stopped raining so lets get started!  

The Haynes Meeting House

Pilgrims Cottage

We quickly stumble upon the most noteworthy example of the walk. 'The Haynes Meeting House' is where the Bedford Baptists would secretly meet. It is also said that Bunyan would would have preached there too.Next door is a lovely thatched cottage 'Pilgrims Cottage'. Looks as though it is on the market too. We complete the small loop as far as 'Appley Corner'. This is the point we reached on our last walk, close to the MOD area. 

Being responsible walkers we take notice of the sign in front of the path across the field. The temporary diversion is to avoid 'Digestate'. A nutrient-rich substance produced by anaerobic digestion that can be used as a fertiliser. It consists of left over indigestible material and dead micro-organisms. Glad to have cleared that up, not literally of course. There are signposts for the Greensands Ridge Walk. A 40 mile walk across Bedfordshire and brief sections in Cambridgeshire and Buckinghamshire. There is a nice walk between Haynes and Sandy through Warden Great Wood. I have walked some of the Greensands Way a while back. Probably a walk that won't get finished. I do like the footpath markers though with their Muntjac emblem. We are now back at the point we started from! It has started raining again but there is no temptation to call it in.  

Walking away from Haynes we pass Northwood End Farm and the old grain stores. We are now about to complete the much larger circuit of the vaguely figure of eight route. We are going downhill through some extremely muddy fields. Away to our right hand side is 'Firtree Farm'. We then have a steepish climb up 'Firtree Hill'. This proves to be particularly tricky as my Hernia has flared up. The cold and rain isn't helping too much either. It's a real slog and I'm grateful to find a bench three quarters of the way up. Such was the discomfort I wasn't bothered that is was soaking wet. A five minute break certainly helped to settle things down.

'Firtree Hill'

I notice a plaque on the bench which read as follows, 'The Bench getting a perspective on life. In loving memory of Sir Paul Cosford 1963-2021. Time for a bit of digging I think? Sir Paul was a British emeritus medical director at Public Health England. He advised the Government and led PHE’s health protection and emergency response to the 2014 Ebola outbreak in West Africa and the 2018 Salisbury poisonings.Sadly in 2017 he was diagnosed with lung cancer despite never having smoked. There followed a long battle against the disease knowing that it would eventually end his life. Very sad to read and clearly a man who did great things and helped many others throughout his distinguished career.

Despite the dull and dreary weather there are still signs of Spring to be found. There are clumps of Snowdrops  and the bright yellow of the Aconites which unsurprisingly are a member of the Buttercup family. The shoots emerge from the soil in early Spring then disapear to its underground tuber after flowering. All parts of the plant are poisonous to humans and animals. Recovering from the hill climb we pass Wilstead before turning right towards 'Chapel End'. We then pick up the Bunyan Trail once again as we head back towards the start point. 

There isn't much to report in all fairness as we head towards Haynes. We first pass 'Manor Farm' and then further on 'Hammerhill Farm'. We are close to Summerfields Miniature Railway, described as one of Bedfordshire's hidden gems. I'm sure I can hear the train whistle in the distance, the nostalgic sound of the locomotive. 

It is with some relief we arrive back to the car. The rain is quite heavy and the temperature has dropped noticeably. Always enjoyable though and a total of just over 7.5 miles covered today.  

The John Bunyan Trail (6) Westoning , Sharpenhoe & Harlington

 

Westoning Clock Tower

Back on the John Bunyan Trail in the village of Westoning, half a mile south of Flitwick. The first point of interest on another cold and dank day is the impressive Clock Tower. The plaque shows that it was erected by J.G Coventry Campion. Given by the parishioners and friends of Westoning to commemorate the sixtieth year of reign by Queen Victoria 1837-1897. John Gadsby Coventry Campion was Lord of the Manor and also chairman of the Parish Council in 1897 (for the third time).         

Moving on we pass under the railway bridge towards Samshill Farm. Sadly on the crossroads is another example of the blight of the countryside. Although it does seem to be everywhere these days. I'm referring to 'Fly-tipping' of course. Tiles, fascias and all sorts of other items were spread all over the road. The culprits should be hung up by their soffits at the very least. I understand the problem has worsened, particularly since Council refuse sites have placed restrictions, and charges on what can be disposed of. In Northampton the the litter 'Wombles' do a fantastic job clearing up. Otherwise I think we would be knee deep in rubbish...

 

Samshill Farm

On the night of November 12th 1660, ignoring words of advice from his friends Bunyan began to preach at a farm in a Hamlet, then known as 'Lower Samsell'. All was well until he was disturbed by the local constabulary with an arrest warrant. he Trail takes us right past the low key farm entrance. There is no indication of its historic past sadly. 

I wonder how much the farm has changed since those times? Probably not too much I suspect. We continue on the Trail towards Higham Bury, passing a very impressive looking house and gardens on our right. Lots of new fencing and fast growing shrubs have recently been planted to keep out prying eyes. Passing Hill Farm in the direction of Pilloxhill we encounter a huge Water Tower. Pulloxhill being a former Quaker village could well have been the inspiration behind the 'Hill Lucre'. A place where Pilgrims were tempted to search for treasure in the silver mine in the hill. At one time there was thought to be gold in Pulloxhill! The "mine" was discovered in 1680. It was immediately seized as a royal mine but whatever was found there proved not to be worth the cost of separation.

Higham Bury House

There are reports that Pulloxhill was besieged by would-be gold miners for months after the discovery. It is unclear when the mine was abandoned: one report says it was closed by 1683, another that it was not abandoned until 1750. The biggest mystery surrounding the mine is what was found? We continue on the 'Bunyan Trail' towards Portobello Farm as we head in the direction of Sharpenhoe. At the foot of the hills known as the 'Sharpenhoe Clappers'.

Bunyan's Oak in the distance.

We will walk 'The Clappers' another day. Hopefully a clear one when the views should be great. We have moved through an area on the map called 'Wateroff'. There isn't too much of interest really until we reach 'Horsehill Spinney on the Barton Road  east of Harlington. It is on the Harlington Heritage Trail and has the following wording:

Bunyan's Oak

Christian preacher and author of
"The Pilgrim's Progress"

John Bunyan (1628-1688)
delivered sermons from the natural pulpit
of the oak tree located in the,
field opposite, prior to being sent to
Bedford Gaol for 'field-preaching'.

This is to be the first of several Blue Plaques to be discovered in the village of Harlington. A hill top village in a rural setting, surrounded by Green Belt and the Chilterns ‘Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’ (AONB). The parish church of St. Mary the Virgin was built by the Augustinian monks of Dunstable Priory in the 13th century. The altar is made from the bough of a tree that Bunyan stood beneath when he preached at Upper East End. A stained glass window depicts scenes from Pilgrim’s Progress.

The church of St. Mary the Virgin

The Grand National steeplechase held at Aintree in Liverpool is probably one of the most famous horse races in the world.Who knew though that the origins of the race can be traced to a pre-existing race, known as the ‘Great St. Albans Steeplechase’. It was originally run in Bedfordshire, from Harlington to Wrest Park, near Silsoe, and back again, over a total distance of approximately four miles.The first race of its kind to be staged in England, the Great St. Albans Steeplechase proved a huge success, so much so that, by 1834, it was a major event, attracting runners from all over the country. So much so that it came to the attention of William Lynn, a well known sports promoter who had been staging race meetings, on the Flat, at Aintree since 1829.He then went on to devise a similar race of his own, to start and finish near the grandstands at Aintree; the rest, as they say, is history. The second Blue Plaque of the day is found on the church tower to commemorate the first ever race on Monday 8th March 1830. Sixteen horses took part, the winner being 'The Wonder' ridden by Captain McDowall. 

It's a smashing village Harlington, and even has a Blue Plaque Heritage trail. We spot another one by the way, 'John Benet' Vicar of Harlington from around 1442 - 1472. Famed for his Chronicles published in Latin in the 15th Century. They are now held in Trinity College Dublin.

 

Following his arrest Bunyan was taken before the local magistrate Francis Wingate at Harlington Manor. Back then it was known as 'Harlington House'.The large gabled house stands on the corner of Station Road and Westoning Road. It is privately owned and only one side can be seen from the road. It is the only occupied residential house connected to Bunyan. 

After being questioned he was imprisoned for 12 years in Bedford county gaol. His charge being 'Preaching without a license'. While serving his sentence he began writing his most famous work, 'The Pilgrims Progress'. He would have had a few privileges whilst imprisoned, such as visits from friends and food parcels. Otherwise it would have been a pretty grim existence I would imagine. 

Bunyan was released in 1672 due to the Declaration of Indulgence, which allowed nonconformists to preach if they had a license. 

We make our way out of the village, amongst the undergrowth and brambles the set of Blue Plaques is completed.Close to the footpath, near the Upper School still on the Bunyan Trail lies the plaque of  'Sir Ralph Pirot' 1226 - 1305. In the field opposite field once stood the moated Harlington Manor House. Built by the Pirot family in the late 13th/early 14th century. 

Sir Ralph Pirot was one of King Edward I's first professional soldiers. He was an active Partisan of Simon De Monfort during the Barons War, against the royalist forces of King Henry III. He was also a key figure in the battle of Northampton in 1624. Taking Simon De Montfort's side in an unsuccessful rebellion, then being imprisoned in the Tower of London 1273 - 1276

A blurry view of the distant Sundon hills

 We follow the 'Bunyan Trail along the side of the railway line back to the tunnel we came under earlier to complete the loop. It has been a fascinating walk with much to see. In total  a distance of just over 10 miles covered.

The John Bunyan Trail (5) Shefford to Chicksands

A sense of Deja Vu today as we park up in exactly up in exactly the same spot as on our previous visit. By the side of the 507 parked next to 'Eric's Removals' van just like last time. The weather is equally as grim too, the added bonus being an Amber weather warning for sleet an snow later in the day. Hopefully we should be on our way home by then. I do think these weather warnings are dished out far too often , spreading panic and worry. All part of the plan to keep people at home and not to travel. Look at me, sounding like a conspiracy theorist...

We follow the fast flowing River Flit as far as Campton. Instead of turning left, we continue past the impressive looking Campton Manor towards 'Chicksands'. The house was erected between 1581 and 1591 for the Ventris family.in 1645, Sir Charles Ventris, a Royalist supporter, resided in the property with his family because of an incident which led to the damaged oak panelling in the house. In 1645 a "small armed band of Roundheads came to Campton, crept up to the House, peeped through the windows and saw Sir Charles in the main downstairs room. One of the band drew his firearm and fired. Fortunately his aim was poor and he missed and the shots were embedded in the oak panelling.  Outside were 3.5 acres of grounds, side and rear gardens an orchard, a sun terrace and a double garage. 

 

We follow the flood plain of the River Flit through a variety of Wetland habitats. The include Reed beds, marshes, ponds and ditches. Or as I like to call it 'Muddy Boots' time. Looking towards the sky through the trees there is a very watery sun losing the battle to break through. A sign warns us that Deer Culling is taking place in the area. I hate the killing of animals , however I do appreciate that controlled culling has to take place to keep the population healthy and manage the countryside. We have a more immediate problem though as 'Archie' the dog has gone missing. Being close to 14 years old his hearing is virtually non existent these days. We split up and look for the errant pooch. After about 5 minutes the Old Boy comes bounding out of a field blissfully unaware of any worry caused.  

After we cross the Ampthill Road we have worries of a different kind. We are on the edge of Ministry of Defence land 'Chicksands'. There are plenty of signs letting us know the dangers , which include being shot from the nearby rifle range. Named after Chicksands Priory, a 12th Century Gilbertine Monastery located within the perimeter of the camp. The site was previously 'RAF Chicksands' which closed in 1997. It then became under the control of the British Army. Today, the Defence Intelligence Training Group (DITG) is based at MOD Chicksands, and is the Headquarters of the Intelligence Corps.The base will close and be disposed of in 2030. Which is quite sad really, no doubt thousands of houses will appear on the site. 

During World War Two Chicksands was a top secret listening post. Intercepting and logging enemy coded enemy transmissions. These would then have been taken to the famous 'Bletchley Park for de-coding. Several pivotal radio transmissions were intercepted at Chicksands Priory, including the transmission which led to the sinking of the battleship Bismarck. It once housed a so-called 'Elephant Cage, or radar antenna array, That too has all been dismantled with very little sign of it ever existing. The two pictures above show how it would have looked in it's heyday. I'm pictured standing on one of several thick concrete platforms that do still remain. 

 

We continue towards 'Appley Corner' passing a lovely pond. We pick up the 'John Bunyan Trail' for the first time on this particular walk. We make the turn back towards Shefford following the footpath that runs parallel to Rowney Warren Wood. A mixture of walking trails and BMX and Mountain bike trails for the more adventurous. From here you can also link up to the Greensands Ridge walk.Rowney Warren is jointly managed by the Southill Estate and the Forestry Commission. The wood is predominantly planted with mixed pine trees, but also contains many old oaks and beech trees dating back over 100 years old.

We follow the Bedford Road back towards Shefford crossing over North Bridge as we go. The water is very high with al the recent rain as you might expect.There are some very nice buildings in Shefford. We are particularly drawn to the one called 'The Brewery Tap'. A former Banks and Taylor pub looking at the designs on the outside wall. We had a B & T pub in Northampton at one time and the Beers were great. Sadly brewing ceased completely in the Summer of 2020. We popped in for old times sake at least. Mainly an old fashioned drinkers pub drinkers pub, with several Real Ales available. I stick to the Diet Coke though as I'm on the 'Dry January' campaign. Another very enjoyable walk in the Bedfordshire countryside. Total miles covered 9.43.