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Rebirth of a Room
Pork Rinds, Veal Sweetbreads, and a Banana Split at La Bête
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Unlike Grandma Used to Make
Cheeky Cafe's Improvements on Old-School Favorites
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Recommended Events
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What We Talk About When We Talk About Food: An Evening with Seattle Food Writers
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Kane Hall, Room 220- Tues Oct 26, 6:30–8 pm.
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Seattle Restaurant Week
Various locations- Sun Oct 17, Thurs Oct 28.
Popular and Recommended Restaurants
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Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Chow / Books Great Cake Wrecks of Literature
Posted by Paul Constant on Wed, Oct 20, 2010 at 12:28 PM
Last month, the Melbourne Cake Show disqualified a cake from exhibition for being in poor taste. Their mistake? The cake was a perfect reproduction of Miss Havisham's wedding cake from Great Expectations, including lovingly reproduced mold, mice, and other signs of decades of neglect (sadly, they seem to have been unable to duplicate the spider's webs). Find more pictures here.
![Its okay; its just frosting. Its okay; its just frosting.](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/www.thestranger.com/images/blogimages/2010/10/20/1287594132-screen_shot_2010-10-20_at_9.58.56_am.png)
- It's okay; it's just frosting.
Related: Man, oh, man is Great Expectations a good book.
(Via Bookshelves of Doom.)
Monday, October 18, 2010
Chow / At Large Lost in New York, Day 4: Look at This Fucking Food I Just Ate
Posted by Lindy West on Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:00 PM
**I did not post on days 2 and 3. All that happened were this (amazing!!!) and this (double amazing—more on this later). Also I stepped in poop a bunch.
First order of business: Does any bar in Seattle serve a "pickle back"? It's a shot of liquor (mine was cheap whiskey) followed by a shot of pickle brine. The brine magically erases the janky whiskey and tastes like you just ate a crisp, refreshing pickle! Genius! Recommended! Someone in Seattle needs to get on that. I got mine here.
And now, LOOK AT MY FUCKING LUNCH. (The prettiest ones get bigger when you click on them.)
Friday, October 15, 2010
Chow The New Dick'szzzzzzzz....
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 5:05 PM
![Screen_shot_2010-10-15_at_5.03.11_PM.png](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/www.thestranger.com/images/blogimages/2010/10/15/1287187487-screen_shot_2010-10-15_at_5.03.11_pm.png)
It's going to be in Edmonds. West Seattle got robbed!
Press release with more info than anyone could possibly want after the jump.
And: Happy 87th birthday, Dick of Dick's!
Chow For Your Stomach's Consideration: Handmade Pork Rinds at La Bête
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 3:00 PM
The handmade pork rinds at Capitol Hill's new La Bête cost $5 an order, and they are—excuse my French—fucking fantastic. More about them and all the other great stuff La Bête's serving—including the world's best gnocchi, socks-knocking-off veal sweetbreads, and (hello!) banana splits—right over here.
Chow For Your Stomach's Consideration: Lunch at the Berliner in Pioneer Square
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 11:35 AM
A gentleman named Ken called with a tip about a new place in Pioneer Square called the Berliner. The Berliner serves doner kebab, the Turkish version of a gyro or shwarma, which, when well-made, is a mighty good sandwich. From Ken's voicemail:
It’s fabulous food. I think it would be well worth your while to go there and taste it. It’s called the Berliner. I just wanted to give you a heads up. I’m not connected to the restaurant at all—I’m a psychoanalyst who happens to really enjoy eating there, and I want it to succeed.
I took Ken's advice, and Ken is correct. The sandwiches—chicken or lamb—come in the customary pita bread, or stuffed into a Grand Central ciabatta roll, or as wraps; they're messy and spicy and great, with variations like the Fiery Kreutzberg Doner (chili sauce, banana peppers, more) available for the adventurous.
Local guy Victor Twu became such a fan of the doner kebab served on the street in Berlin that he opened the Berliner a few weeks ago in a space that used to be a Quizno's. It's order-at-the-counter, with tables to sit at, high ceilings, and some nice old Pioneer Square exposed brick. Lines at lunch are long but move fast. Find the Berliner kitty-corner from where Elliott Bay Book Company used to be. All lunch besides a lamb Berliner doner on pita now seems unsatisfactory. Sigh.
Chow Slog Has Spoken About Babies Screaming in Restaurants
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 9:35 AM
The legally binding poll has closed, and (for once!) I am right.
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Chow / Housekeeping / Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Come to Slog Happy and Win (EDIBLE) Prizes!
Posted by Megan Seling on Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 4:11 PM
![You can win all this! You can win all this!](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/www.thestranger.com/images/blogimages/2010/10/14/1287097844-foodphoto.jpg)
- You can win all this!
Then, the letter gives tips on how to make the best of the holiday season: Organize! Be flexible! Spice up tradition!
And why should you care? Because the package also includes FOOD. Specifically, a bottle of maple syrup, a bag of cornbread mix, a box of gingerbread cookie mix, a bag of chocolates, and a bottle of wine.
Christopher is keeping the wine.
But the rest of the package is yours to keep! If you win, of course. And I don't know how you win. I think you have to beat me at air hockey. Let's do that. The first person to beat me at air hockey wins the syrup, the cornbread, the gingerbread cookies, and the chocolates. You would win the wine, too, but remember that Christopher is keeping that.
See you at Slog Happy!
(At Highline on Broadway—it starts at 6 pm.)
Chow / Books Because I Know You All Love Tao Lin...
Posted by Paul Constant on Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 2:27 PM
...please enjoy this incredibly awkward edition of Emily Gould's Cooking the Books, in which she makes a meal with an author.
It's a rare event when a Crow t-shirt isn't the most ironic thing in a video. Related: Tao Lin's salad sounds pretty good.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Chow What They Named Their Restaurant
Posted by Dominic Holden on Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 8:46 AM
In the Southcenter mall:
![sushiitogo.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/www.thestranger.com/images/blogimages/2010/10/13/1286984429-sushiitogo.jpg)
Yum!
Chow Chefs Are Getting Sweaty and Burned Making Your Dinner, But They're Not Getting Rich
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on Wed, Oct 13, 2010 at 7:01 AM
On average, by the hour, fine-dining chefs de cuisine make about as much as school bus drivers. (Which is the worse work environment: a broiling-hot kitchen or a bus full of screaming kids?) They also work almost twice as many hours a week and don't get summers off.
More restaurant industry numbers (and nice graphs) over here: Executive chefs and chef/owners make more than chefs de cuisine, but most of them still aren't getting rich. The salary gap between the lowest-paid rungs on the kitchen ladder and the top is widening. Women still make "egregiously" less than men (surprise!). Culinary degrees make very little difference in income.
And some good news:
...by and large the restaurant industry seems to be maintaining, and in some cases even improving, its financial health in these less-than-salutary economic times.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Chow / Drunk Happiest Hour: Faire Gallery Cafe-Bar
Posted by David Schmader on Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 2:00 PM
![scaled.faire-1.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/www.thestranger.com/images/blogimages/2010/10/12/1286901910-scaled.faire-1.jpg)
Marti Jonjak profiles Capitol Hill's "completely gorgeous lounge and art venue"—and highlights various funky usages of the French verb faire—here.
Chow Chow Bio: Vuong Loc of June
Posted by David Schmader on Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 10:00 AM
![scaled.Picture_3.png](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/www.thestranger.com/images/blogimages/2010/10/12/1286901163-scaled.picture_3.png)
The owner of Madrona's newish Vietnamese-influenced French restaurant (who also owns Queen Anne's more classically French restaurant Portage) holds forth on grapefruit ketchup, unusual meat, and which of his family members qualify as "doughnut people" here.
Chow What to Do When Your Offspring Is Shattering Everyone's Eardrums in a Restaurant
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 7:46 AM
Weekend brunch at Monsoon is great. They've got fancied-up French toast, the best pho in the city (oxtail broth, with Wagyu eye of round and braised brisket in it; yes, it costs $10, but it is so good), and excellent dim sum. They used to have $4 glasses of rose at brunch too; Monsoon, please bring that back.
Secret: Some of Monsoon's excellent dim sum is made at the excellent Jade Garden in the I.D., so if you don't mind waiting quite a while and eating in a more cafeteria-type setting, you can go have it there and it's cheaper. Jade Garden is also quite a bit louder than Monsoon—unless there's a certain baby at Monsoon, in which case, Monsoon is the loudest place you've ever been.
We'll call this baby Hawkchild. Hawkchild was there this past Sunday, having brunch. Hawkchild was adorable, maybe eight months old, ready for the Gerber label. Hawkchild was silent, except for an intermittent, soul-piercing shriek. Have you ever heard a hawk scream, very high up in the sky? Like that, except you're trapped with the hawk in a container made of floor and glass and wall and ceiling, trying to eat your $10 bowl of pho.
How can a being that small produce a sound that loud? It is probably evolutionarily beneficial for the human vocal cords to develop early and strong. More importantly, what should a parent do in such a circumstance? My brunch companion wondered. I opined that the second time your offspring does something that other diners might find irritating, you are obligated to take it outside and not return until such irritation will no longer occur. (You are obligated to take it outside the first time, fast, if the irritant behavior is sustained, or never, if you are at Chuck E. Cheese or Vios.) I also opined that a pacifier might be just the ticket, although pacifiers have probably been found to cause irreparable dental and/or mental damage.
The parent in question chose to smile fixedly and stare into the middle distance whenever Hawkchild made a hawkshriek, fooling exactly no one.
The parent in question had probably not read this article.
How about a poll?
Monday, October 11, 2010
Chow Another "Best" Listzzzzzzzzz...
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 2:20 PM
It's Esquire's best new restaurants of 2010. Neither Seattle nor Portland are is represented. As you were.
Chow / Drunk Bar Exam: The Relocated Local Vine
Posted by David Schmader on Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 2:06 PM
Bethany Jean Clement visits the freshly relocated (and beloved by Stranger readers) wine bar the Local Vine, home to "the Enomatic Wine Preservation System, an Italian machine that infuses nitrogen gas into bottles, keeping opened wine perfectly good for up to 45 days" and allowing the Local Vine to offer over 80 wines by the glass, at prices ranging from $5-$54. Read about it here.
Chow All That and an Environmentally Friendly Bag of Chips
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 9:19 AM
Sun Chips recently abandoned almost all of its biodegradable bags because they were too noisy and people freaked out. The bags were made out of nonspecified "plant material."
Now, across the pond, a British chips-maker—they call them "crisps," because in their daft world, chips are fries—is talking about making chip bags out of potato peelings. There is no indication how loud a potato-peel chips bag might be, but: the poetry! It'll be almost like eating a potato.
Friday, October 8, 2010
Questionland / Chow It's Still Baking Week in Questionland
Posted by Megan Seling on Fri, Oct 8, 2010 at 1:47 PM
But not for much longer! So do you want some expert advice on making bread at home? George De Pasquale, owner, founder, and Head Baker at Essential Baking Co., is answering your questions now along with Jessie Oleson (AKA Cakespy), Chef Robin Leventhal, Kate McDermott, and Rhienn from Look Cupcakes!
Here's some of the stuff they've already covered:
"Does anyone have a great frosting recipe that I should try?"
"How to perfect a home-baked baguette/batard?"
"Cookie recipe that substitues fruit for (part or all) of the sugar and/or butter?"
Ask all your butter, sugar, and flour related questions now!
Chow Behold This Gorgeous Plate of Macaroni & Cheese
Posted by David Schmader on Fri, Oct 8, 2010 at 1:36 PM
![ChowLead-420.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/www.thestranger.com/images/blogimages/2010/10/08/1286569852-chowlead-420.jpg)
- Kelly O
Then read about the place that made it—the new Cheeky Cafe at 17th and Jackson, which according to Paul Constant "gives grandma's comfort food a multicultural kick in the ass"—here.
(And seriously, props to Kelly O for being able to take gorgeous photos of food, a talent that's missing from too many people who photograph food and whose work looks like portraits of surgical waste.)
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Chow Soda Is Not Food
Posted by Dominic Holden on Thu, Oct 7, 2010 at 8:54 AM
Says Mayor Bloomberg:
Mayor Michael R. Bloomberg sought federal permission on Wednesday to bar New York City’s 1.7 million recipients of food stamps from using them to buy soda or other sugared drinks.
Related in OpinionThe request, made to the United States Department of Agriculture, which finances and sets the rules for the food-stamp program, is part of an aggressive anti-obesity push by the mayor that has also included advertisements, stricter rules on food sold in schools and an unsuccessful attempt to have the state impose a tax on the sugared drinks.
Soda isn't food; it's poison. And the government doesn't need to pay for anyone to drink poison. If people want to drink beer, smoke cigarettes, or chug high fructose corn syrup by the vat on their own dime, let 'em. But don't spend taxpayer money buying it. We already subsidize corn syrup for the soda business to the tune of billions of dollars a year. Big Soda is a gassy, bullshit political machine. They're opposing the proposal from Bloomberg using their hackneyed old line that says he's trying to control what goes into America's grocery bags. (Again, soda isn't groceries; it's an artificially cheap, artificially sweet diabetes-machine and fat-maker.) Nobody is proposing a prohibition on soda, only that folks pay for the poison out of their own pocket. The American Beverage Association's interest isn't liberty of the supermarket shopper or defending the poor. It's their own fat coffers. For proof, look to its equally disingenuous campaign in Washington state, where the American Beverage Association has contributed a record $14.3 million to repeal a temporary tax (a tax that helps the poorest people in the state) on soda, bottled water, and candy. That sugar crap isn't food either, but the soda lobby is running a campaign to claim that it's should-to-shoulder with the building blocks of good nutrition. Using food stamps on soda is only further subsidizing the soda industry's profits, which in turn go toward lobbying efforts that ensure the government has less money for the poorest folks, who needs things like food stamps to buy actual food.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Questionland / Chow What Do You Think Is the World's Best Cookie?
Posted by Megan Seling on Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 8:47 AM
Over in Questionland, alight says:
John Thorne wrote about the 'world's greatest cookies' in one of his books—they were thin and crispy and filled with demerara sugar. They were tasty, but not the greatest for me or the folks I fed them to.
I'm curious what qualifies as the 'world's greatest cookies' to baking experts, as I expect I'll spend the month of December baking cookies.
Some of our baking experts have weighed in—what cookie would you say is the 'world's greatest'?
Share your answers in Questionland, where it's Baking Week all week long!
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Homo / Chow The Amateur Gourmet Says "It Gets Better" With Braised Short Ribs
Posted by Dan Savage on Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 12:41 PM
It's a beautiful story:
When I told my friend Alex that I was cooking a dinner for my parents and Craig's parents at the end of last week, Alex (who knew me in college) said to me: "Did you ever think, 10 years ago, that this would ever happen? That you'd cook a dinner one day for your parents and your boyfriend and his parents?" The answer to that question was most definitely: "No."...
By my junior year of college, I'd made several gay friends. And it was at that point that I'd gotten tired of fielding questions from my family about why I didn't have a girlfriend and if I knew any nice Jewish girls and if any of them were marryable. Around this time of year (it was near Halloween), I came out to my closest college friends (I was so nervous, I couldn't say the word; I told my friend Travis I was a "h...h...hemophiliac!"). And then I told my parents. Let's just say it didn't go very well. There were intense, emotional phone calls, awkward trips home, visits to a terrible therapist who tried to turn me straight, an explosive night at the dinner table where my grandmother said: "Why can't you just marry your friend Lisa?" To which I replied: "Because she doesn't have a penis!" It got ugly.
But then it got better. That's why Alex's comment was so on-the-nose; because things seemed so harrowing back then, I couldn't imagine that we'd ever turn a corner. But we did.
It happened when I met Craig.
RTWT.
Chow / ??!! You Win, Snickers! I Will Never Eat Your Candy Bar Again.
Posted by Wm. Steven Humphrey on Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 12:31 PM
... Or go to the grocery store for that matter.
Brrrrrr....
Two-Block Radius / Chow Restaurantsplosion Continues on Capitol Hill
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 12:23 PM
A bricks-and-mortar Skillet and a new restaurant from the Umi Sake House/Kushibar empire* are (very likely) coming to Capitol Hill.
This and more two-block radius restaurant gossip—including the fate of C.C. Attle's and the return of a certain sandwich to the Honeyhole—at Capitol Hill Seattle.
*Not Billy Beach, the other guy. Billy Beach is now head chef at Japonessa, where Union uszzzzzzzzzzzzz...
Chow / Video of the Day Lunchtime Quickie: The McDonalds Un-Happy Meal Deal
Posted by Kelly O on Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 12:15 PM
Are the toys in McDonald's Happy Meals making kids fat?!? Should San Francisco really BAN THEM? The answer lies in this video.*
*Not really, I just wanted to make you watch it
Chow The Happiest Hour: Mike's Chili Parlor
Posted by David Schmader on Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 11:30 AM
![HH-220.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/www.thestranger.com/images/blogimages/2010/10/05/1286295628-hh-220.jpg)
Marti Jonjak profiles the beloved Ballard chili parlor—home to secret-recipe chili and scenes from forgotten Gene Hackman films—here.