In summertime, especially August, Parisians love their picnics (called pique-niques [peek-neek)). Often we'll have them along the Seine river, cutting through the center of Paris. But you could also picnic at any city park (they're everywhere), or along the Canal St. Martin is also a popular spot. (Interestingly, a reader notes that "picnic" first appeared in the French,
according to Wikipedia.)
In Paris, picnics are generally evening affairs. A French friend expressed shock when I made the common American mistake of saying that last Friday's picnic was at "17 heures" (I meant 7pm) instead of "19 heures." No one picnics at 5pm, he told me in disgust. And of course he was right. No respectable Parisian would ever picnic before 7pm, the traditional time at least for my Paris-dwelling friends.
Our usual haunt, near the end of Paris Plage by the Pont Marie, was a bust when we were summarily kicked out by the cops at 730pm. It seems that we picked the last day of Paris Plage (where they turn a mile of street along the Seine into one big public beach, sand and all, for a month) to do our picnic, and the city was closing the event abruptly at 730 (because it would be silly to close the event at the end of evening, or worse, at the close of the weekend).
Above would have been our view had the cops not kicked us out. Fortunately, Marcus and company came up with a much better plan. We'd go over to the Ile St. Louis and picnic at what has always been one of my favorite spots in Paris, since I lived here when I was 19. The spot is
right here at a bend in the island and the river. Viewed from the other side, this is where we picnicked on Friday, just around the bend to the left, where you can't see any longer.
French picnics are a big communal smorgasbord of a mess. Usually advertised and organized on Facebook (or Fess-book, as they say in French (which is a pun, since "fesses" in French means "butt")), you never really know how many Friends will make it, but normally we get a good 15 to 20. The French like their food cocktail-y. So there's always some kind of salted nuts and cherry tomatoes, pâté and prosciutto, and of course a few perfectly crisp baguettes. The main course is usually chicken and maybe Chinese (that's my usual fallback), and dessert might be some kind of cake or tarte. Oh, and there's always lots of wine, and even sometimes some champagne (this time someone, God bless him, brought a bottle of Veuve).
Another interesting thing: Some guys working for the city came by and left us a big green plastic garbage bag. They go by all the picnic spots and leave people bags so they can clean up afterwards. Yes, there are garbage cans already there, as you can see in the picture below, but the bags usually already have garbage in them, and couldn't take all that we had to throw away (and all of the other picnics taking place just a few yards away). Brilliant move by the city - a very cool small-town move.
This late in the summer, the sun tends to set by 8:40 - mid-summer in Paris, in late June, it sets at 10pm (and twilight lasts until a good 1030) - I remember working here for a summer when I was 23, and going to bed before 10ish, and it was bright as daylight outside. Sunset, and the streetlight-accented darkness after, are the best part of picnicking, especially along the river.
The picnic ended around 11 or 1130pm, just in time for us to hit a few bars and then go dancing until 3am (something I hadn't done in possibly 15 years.) It was fun, and exhausting. Below is the view as we left the picnic, heading over to Marcus' favorite bar, Les Souffleurs. I'll save the video from the Souffleurs for another day.
You'll see our picnic spot, very small in the left hand side of the photo, along the bank, just below Notre Dame in the picture. This is the actual view on the way to the bar. My view in DC on the way to the bar takes me past lots of chicken bones, broken glass, and a few scary housing complexes where people get shot every few months. And people ask why I come to Paris every August.
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