Stopped by the North Mississippi location of Por Que No recently for a nice lunch.
![ceviche.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/web.archive.org/web/20120125015053im_/http:/=2fguiltycarnivore.com/wp-content/uploads/ceviche-tm.jpg)
The ceviche comes with plenty of freshly fried tortilla chips (that seem a bit too “puffy”, to lack a better description).
![ceviche2.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/web.archive.org/web/20120125015053im_/http:/=2fguiltycarnivore.com/wp-content/uploads/ceviche2-tm.jpg)
If I would have to guess, these shrimp are cooked with heat rather than marinated in citrus, which makes this a “cocteles de cameron” rather than a strict ceviche. It was certainly decent, if a bit lacking in seasoning and with a tad bit too many dominant notes of citrus and acid. I’d, however, probably order this every time I revisited Por Que No, as for $8.50 it’s a good value, all things considered. Ask for some salt.
![fish.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/web.archive.org/web/20120125015053im_/http:/=2fguiltycarnivore.com/wp-content/uploads/fish-tm1.jpg)
Taco de pescado.
![shrimp.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/web.archive.org/web/20120125015053im_/http:/=2fguiltycarnivore.com/wp-content/uploads/shrimp-tm.jpg)
Taco de camerones. Give it to Por Que No, they know how to present a visually appealing taco.
![salsa.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/web.archive.org/web/20120125015053im_/http:/=2fguiltycarnivore.com/wp-content/uploads/salsa-tm1.jpg)
These rojo (guajillo) and verde salsas (serve-yourself, to the immediate left of the counter) certainly look resonant and complex, but in reality they were tepidly restrained and a bit under seasoned.
![taco-dressed.jpg](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/web.archive.org/web/20120125015053im_/http:/=2fguiltycarnivore.com/wp-content/uploads/taco-dressed-tm.jpg)
And a fully dressed taco here is a paragon of model good looks, but as with many runway fashion models, the underlying substance can be a tad wanting.
Taqueria Por Que No seems to invite strong feelings from the pro/con forces in Portland. But this is clear: they are much appreciated. After a few wildly successful years in North Portland at their Mississippi location, they opened up a SE Hawthorne outpost that seems to be more popular than the original.
I am thankful for the responsibly sourced ingredients. Menu items here are bright and vibrant in presentation, and certainly carefully crafted. The handmade tortillas are very good. The proteins are of high quality. It’s just that the fare here lacks that certain…oomph, that primal, “exciting” quality of authentic taqueria fare that makes your taste buds perk up in quasi-revolt. Por Que No feels more like the Decemberists than Red Fang.
Also, two tacos and a small cocteles came out to $16. The seafood tacos run $3.50 (for fish and calamari—which I wanted but they were out of) and shrimp is $4, and these aren’t any larger than your typical taqueria items, so cost, at least relative to other taquerias, probably influences those firmly in the Por Que No “con” camp. You would need 3 (if not 4) shrimp tacos to sate an appetite, which places Por Que No out of the indie rock realm and catapults them more into the highbrow, “literate rock” territory.
But hey, the Decemberists are a mighty fine band with many fans, and they sell a lot of records.
3524 N Mississippi Ave
Portland, OR 97227
(503) 467-4149
Thursday, March 17th | No comments