Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

Celery Root Salad

One of my favorite winter salads is one made from shredded celery root, or celeriac. If you are unfamiliar with this nubby root vegetable, typically found in a quiet corner of the produce section, here’s what it looks like:

This is what a nice one should resemble–unfortunately, because they are still unfamiliar to many people, the unsold celeriac will sometimes linger way past its prime before it gets yanked by the grocer. Your ideal root should be fresh, firm, the color somewhere between creamy-light beige-faintly green, with the stem ends where the celery was once attached looking recently cut and verdant, rather than withered and mottled.

Once you find a nice globular one, bring it home, peel off the tough exterior, and use it to make one of several things: a mash just like you would mashed potatoes with butter or cream and freshly ground nutmeg; or simmered in a chicken or vegetable stock until soft enough to pierce with the pointy end of a knife and then pureed for a soup; or shred it for a light winter salad.

I follow my Belgian grandmother’s recipe, which is basically the classic French celeriac remoulade. It’s very weeknight friendly, you can improvise with whatever herbs you like (think parsley, tarragon, chives), and even add chopped gherkins or capers. In a way it has the same versatility as cabbage–which can also be turned into a slaw or cooked until broken down and all together something different.

For the cookbook I’m working on a recipe for pairing the salad with a turkey schnitzel, but really it goes well with any breaded cutlet recipe you like. It can also be the main part of your meal if you’re going meatless— mixed with a green salad, some quinoa or brown rice, and roasted vegetables. My mother and grandmother used to also eat it on a sandwich, piled between two pieces of crusty baguette. Trust me–it’s delicious.

Recipe for Celeriac Salad

Peel one large celery root, removing all of the tough outer skin with a sharp peeler until you’ve exposed the white interior. Cut into thick finger-shaped slices and feed into a food processor using the shredding blade (you can also use a box shredder or mandolin).

Place the shredded celeriac in a large bowl. Squeeze one lemon and pour the juice over the celeriac, tossing to combine so that all of the celeriac is covered.

In a separated bowl combine 1/2 cup mayonnaise (if you don’t want to use mayo then you can just make a vinaigrette with the following ingredients and substitute grapeseed oil), 1 tbs champagne or white wine vinegar, 1-2tbs dijon mustard (depending upon how mustardy you like it), salt and a good amount of freshly ground pepper (I’ve also had it with 1 tsp of horseradish, if you want a little heat). Add to the celeriac and toss to combine. You can now add the chopped capers and gherkins, if you’d like. I sprinkle some chopped parsley or chives on top before serving. Enjoy!

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Sunday, January 15th, 2012

Martha! Martha! Martha!

If you haven’t already gotten your issue of the February Martha Stewart Living —see above with the pretty flower heart—then I urge you to get a copy pronto and check out page 29 for the Arsenal section, which features tips for entertaining the fam during the midwinter gloom with an item by your’s truly…devilandegg! It was lots of fun to do and I got to choose products and talk about one of my favorite cooking projects: homemade granola (which I’ve written about before HERE).

It’s also just a great issue—if you weren’t already a fan of MSL then look at it now. There’s a new team making it even more lovely and inspiring, but actually more doable and less “perfect”…and I mean that in a good way.  I also love the stories about a custom doll maker, French bistro cooking, and “turning clutter into calm”. We all need some of that, don’t we?

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Thursday, January 12th, 2012

Feeling Granular

Lately I’m on a couscous and quinoa kick. Something about a hearty, nubby, healthy semolina/grain seems so right in January (really anytime but just go with me), when everything has a post-holiday pall about it.

I also love how fast these two cook—for the quinoa it’s either a flash in the rice cooker or just 15 minutes simmering with some water or broth on the stove, maybe adding some aromatics like bay leaf, peppercorns, or herbs; for the couscous it’s just about boiling some water or chicken or vegetable broth, adding the couscous, taking off the heat, cover, and let steam for 10 minutes or so until all of the liquid is absorbed and you can fluff it up.

As for what to mix in that is the fun part—The other day I made a pot of couscous with some chicken broth I had made and then froze over the holidays, I also added a teaspoon of turmeric to the broth while it boiled before adding the couscous. I then sauteed some chopped kale in olive oil with a couple of crushed garlic cloves and a few red chili pepper flakes, then sprinkled it with lemon juice and fleur de sel. I put this over the couscous, topped with goat cheese (toasted sunflower seeds would have been nice also) and drizzled it all again with some olive oil. If I had any leftover roasted chicken or salmon that would have gone on top too.

The grains have a spectacular way of absorbing the ingredients they mingle with which makes it truly a one-dish meal. And it’s particularly suited to winter no? Roasted parsnips, sauteed greens, steamed celeriac…all find a home in a big bowl of grains. Just remember to season well, add herbs when you have them, and it’s always good to finish with a little olive oil (walnut oil is delicious too), lemon juice, and some toasted nuts or seeds. Now I sound like I’m describing a fancy meal for a squirrel. But really, it’s hearty and satisfying even for a person.

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Saturday, January 7th, 2012

Things I Like: Instagram!

So I have a new obsession: the photo app Instagram. Do you know it? I finally got the app for my phone after several people insisted it’s the best thing ever, and they were right, it’s completely addictive. And free!

To use it you take one photo of a person, place, or thing with your phone of whatever you fine gorgeous, inspiring, delicious, odd, funny, whathaveyou. And then you have a selection of filters to change the the photo: you can make it appear like it was taken in 1977 or with a plastic camera or with a washed out tint or black and white. Once you’ve chosen your filter the pic goes on your feed for your other friends and followers to see or like. It’s basically like a visual Twitter. You see the photos of other people you’ve selected to follow (there are plenty of celebs and notable hipsters on there as well like Coco Rocha and Zooey Deschanel) and it seems everyone ups their game by taking really amazing and witty photos.

Above is a photo I took of a recent lunch I made of tomato soup (a recipe test for the cookbook) and grilled cheese. I used a filter that made the colors more saturated and also gave the image a frame.

If you’d like to follow me my tag name is devilandegg. I’ll follow you back!

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Wednesday, January 4th, 2012

It’s A New Year Breakfast Burrito

I’d like to present my first meal of the year (that is if you don’t count several handfuls of peanut butter M&Ms and possibly some Doritos I ate sometime between the ball dropping at midnight and leaving our friends’ New Year’s Eve party on a wave of champagne bubbles…but let’s not count those tipsy indiscretions, let’s pretend it never happened!): a breakfast burrito! And not just any breakfast burrito–a pretty darn healthy one, because even if my resolve to eat right wobbles by Groundhog’s Day, I can at least say I started off with a bang. Plus, who in the world doesn’t L-O-V-E a breakfast burrito? They are practically impossible not to adore.

So the ingredients:

-a handmade whole wheat tortilla from Trader Joe’s

-a nest of freshly steamed quinoa

-roasted grape tomatoes

-goat cheese

-Greek yogurt mixed with lime juice and cumin

-arugula

-a plain omelet cut into slivers
And because I felt like it, I also drizzled in a vinaigrette with sherry vinegar, mustard, shallots, walnut oil, and a bit of pomegranate molasses.

I realize that with so many ingredients this may seem like an arduous production, but I assure you it really isn’t, and it’s particularly worth the effort if you are trying to feed more people than just yourself. If all the elements are made in larger batches you will be able to make several burritos and make everyone fall even more in love with you. Especially those who are doing their best to eat more healthfully.

So basically the tomatoes go in the oven at 350, spread out on a sheet pan, drizzled with olive oil, salt and pepper, and roasted until they are melty and a little charred in spots. You can do this ahead of time or in the morning, it doesn’t take long. Just make several pints because they shrivel up significantly.

The eggs are just a large omelet, whisked gently with salt and pepper and then fried with just a bit of grapeseed oil. Fold over and remove from pan when not totally set in the middle. Put aside until ready to use and then cut in thick slivers.

Arugula is just a nice cool rinse. You can also toss with the vinaigrette or yogurt sauce if you’d like.

Quinoa I cooked in my new trusty rice cooker, but you can just make it in a sauce pan the traditional way, it shouldn’t take you more than 15 minutes.

If you like, you can also add some cooked beans or sliced avocado or leftover roasted chicken or pork. A breakfast burrito is the perfect receptacle for leftovers and odds and ends, or a good excuse for making a big batch of beans or roasted vegetables so you can use the extra the next day. My one bit of advice is that the chosen ingredients should provide not only a variety of color (there is nothing worse than a beige burrito) but also your chosen protein, grain, veggie, and if you choose, dairy, should provide a spectrum of crunchy, salty, sweet, leafy, tender, tangy and creamy.

It might even cure a hangover…

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