It’s a Dog’s Life in Istanbul

An essay by Bernd Brunner about Istanbul’s hundred thousand stray dogs.

No, you’d rather not cuddle with them. They seem a little too unpredictable and unkempt for that. And it’s not tempting to project human characteristics on them either. But it is easy to feel sorry for some of them, who bear traces of injuries, disease, and accidents. Most resemble one another: large, with a light-brown, sometimes darker coat. Some have short legs paired with unusually large bodies. Despite their scars, the wild dogs of Istanbul seem self-sufficient and untroubled, as if no one could mean them any harm. You can find them everywhere: between parked cars or, early in the morning, under the chairs in front of the Starbucks on Taksim Square. Often they just lie there and doze. Are they recovering from last night’s activities?… (click here)

Secret Passageway

Photo by Trey Ratcliff

This is a fascinating photo by Trey Ratcliff at Stuckincustoms.com. I don’t know what it is of, but reminds me of Istanbul’s hidden Byzantine passages.

Black Hats Versus White Hats, 1453

The new blockbuster movie “Fetih 1453″ (Conquest 1453) has hit theaters in Turkey, Germany and elsewhere. It’s a cross between Ben Hur, Rambo, and old Western cowboy movies where the moral, god-fearing good guys wear white hats and shoot it out with the nasty, dissolute bad guys in black hats. Like the sopa opera “Muhteşem Yüzyıl” about the life of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, the new movie (which I should say I haven’t had an opportunity to see yet) appears to be imbued with Turkish Muslim/nationalist ideas about history, rather than about history itself. Here’s a review of the movie (click here); some excerpts:

…“Fetih 1453,’’ or “Conquest 1453,’’ casts good guys (read Muslim Ottomans) against bad guys (aka Christian Byzantines), transforming a clash of empires and religions into a duel between right and wrong… Director Faruk Aksoy’s $17 million extravaganza, Turkey’s most expensive movie, is not just a popularized account of history, spiked with romance, swordplay and gaudy costumes. It also matches a modern identity that elevates an imperial past once held in disdain, and reinforces faith, ethnicity and a message of tolerance in an often contradictory brew…

The film tells of Sultan Mehmet II, a national icon today, and his 50-day siege of Constantinople, the last bastion of the Byzantine empire. It depicts real events: the raising of a giant chain across the entrance to the Golden Horn inlet to block Ottoman ships, the overland transfer of Ottoman vessels on wooden rollers to the harbor, and the construction of a monster cannon to punch holes in the city walls.

The movie indulges in caricature. The Ottomans are devout and resolute; the Byzantine emperor, Constantine, and his aides drink and lounge with women in wispy outfits. When Mehmet finally enters the gates, he tells cowering Orthodox Christians that they are free to worship… They smile in wide-eyed, wondrous gratitude. Then the sultan, just 21 years old when Constantinople fell, hoists and kisses a child like a modern politician angling for the cameras…

Baki Tezcan, who is researching Ottoman history in Istanbul, … said the legacy of prior civilizations, along with intermarriage and religious conversions, is usually sidelined in favor of a defensive, ethnically based vision.

“It is posed as if: ‘There were some people here, and then we came, and now it’s our history.’ This movie is kind of like that,’’ said Tezcan, an associate professor of history and religious studies at the University of California, Davis. “Turkey has a lot of trouble narrating a past in which there are other than ethnic Turks.’’

The New Lira Symbol

Image from Hurriyet

The new icon resembles an anchor, which emphasizes that the lira has become a safe investment haven,” said [Governor Erdem] Başçı, adding that the parallel lines of the new design faced upward, which symbolized the steadily increasing value of the lira and the Turkish economy. (click here)

Message From A Friend in Syria

This is a message I just received from an old friend, Syndi Hallaj, who is married to a Syrian and lives there. Her plea is for everyone to wear white, the Syrian color of mourning, on March 8th, International Women’s Day. Her essay is in English and Arabic:

A Stand Against Violence and Hatred

I do not hold a romantic notion of the human being. I believe that we are all capable of violence. I also believe we make choices in life and sometimes the most difficult and bravest ones are those that should be the easiest in a perfect world.  The place that I call home, one that is by choice rather than by birth is being rocked by turmoil and change. The entire region is in the process that is open ended at this point and there is no clear picture as to where things will go even though there is a great deal of hope and desire by all.

One thing is clear, many are paying the price with their lives and many are being asked to take lives as a way to solve the problem or for others to protect or seek justice, I do not presume to judge the righteousness of any one side. In my world view when there is violence there is fear. This means the fear factor that so many write and speak about is not broken in this part of the world and is in actuality growing in different forms.

International Women’s day is approaching, March 8th and I would like to propose that we wear white on this day. This was once the traditional colour of mourning in Syria and surrounding countries. I am asking this to make the statement that violence, all violence is wrong and must stop. Every person killed is someone’s child, brother, sister, parent, friend or relative. Every person asked to participate in acts of violence is irrevocably changed and it can take years or even a life time to repair the damage. We all pay a dear price for violent conflict and if you look around the world very few conflicts are resolved with violence.

I do not hold the solution to the upheaval that is rocking this country and region but I know with every fiber of my being that we must stop hating and accusing each other and start listening and negotiating.

I will post a reminder closer to International Women’s Day and I encourage you all to reach out to your communities to invite all those who would wish to participate. As a friend once told me, change occurs one person at a time and many times it is the small things that we do that helps to bring about a bigger change.

Syndi Hallaj

موقف ضد العنف والكراهية

ليست لدي أحلام وردية فيما يخص طبيعة النفس البشرية، وأعتقد أننا جميعنا قادرون على ارتكاب العنف. ولكنني أؤمن أيضاً أننا نملك الخيار في هذه الحياة. وربما كانت أصعب الخيارات التي نقوم باتخاذها وأكثرها جراءة هي تلك الخيارات التي عادة ما تكون الأسهل في عالم مثالي. إن البلد الذي اعتبره منزلي (بحكم الاختيار وليس بحكم الولادة) تعصف به رياح المصاعب والتغيير. والمنطقة بأسرها تمر في مرحلة غير واضحة الملامح في الوقت الراهن ومن الصعب التكهن أين تنتهي الأمور رغم أن الجميع يطمح إلى مستقبل مشرق.

الشيء الوحيد الواضح اليوم هو أن الكثيرين يدفعون الثمن بأرواحهم، كما أن هناك أخرون مطالبون بإزهاق الأرواح. كل هذا يمر تحت عناوين من قبيل ايجاد الحلول كما يرتأي البعض والحماية والدفاع عن العدالة كما يرى آخرون. ولا أظنني في موقع أستطيع من خلاله أن أطلق الأحكام حول فضيلة أي من الأطراف. ولكن حسب معرفتي بالحياة، فإن العنف يولد من حضن الخوف مما يعني أن حاجز الخوف الذي يتكلم عنه الجميع مازال قائماً وليس في طريقه إلى الزوال، بل هو في الحقيقة يتطاول.

بمناسبة يوم المرأة العالمي الذي يهل علينا في الثامن من أذار/مارس أقترح أن نلبس الأبيض طوال اليوم. هذا اللون الذي كان في يوم ما هو لون الحداد في سورية والثقافات التي نشأت منها ومن حولها. أطلب منكم أن تقوموا بإيصال رسالة واضحة بأن العنف، كل العنف هو خطأ يجب أن ينتهي. كل شخص قتل هو ابنٌ أو أخٌ أو أختٌ أو قريبٌ أو صديقٌ لكم. وكل من طلب منه أن يساهم في القتل، مهما كان السبب، قد تغييرت نفسيته بشكل قطعي وسيتطلب سنوات بل ربما كل حياته ليصلح العطب الداخلي الذي أصابه. كلنا ندفع ثمن العنف ويكفي أن ننظر من حولنا لنرى كيف أن العنف نادراً ما نجح في حل الخلافات.

لست أملك حلاً للإشكال الذي يعصف في هذا البلد ولكنني أعي بكل جوارحي أننا يجب أن نتوقف عن الكراهية وتبادل التهم وأن نبدأ بالإنصات لبعضنا البعض وأن نبدأ بالتفاوض الجاد.

سأذكركم مع اقتراب يوم المرأة العالمي وأحثكم على التواصل مع محيطكم الاجتماعي لدعوته إلى المشاركة. كما قالت لي إحدى أعز صديقاتي يوماً: التغيير يقاس على مستوى كل إنسان على حدى، والأشياء الصغيرة التي يقوم بها كل واحد منا هي التي تصنع التغيير الأكبر.

سندي حلاج

Iranian Inroads in Turkey

In a well-researched essay in Today’s Zaman, Abdullah Bozkurt lays out the case for Iranian mischief making in Turkey. (click here) He points out the mysterious growth last year of Iranian-funded businesses in Turkey, 41% more than the previous year, putting Iran at the top of new foreign companies established in Turkey, 2,140, a quarter of them established only in 2011. (And many more using Turkish partners.) Yet Germany, which set up only 36 companies last year, has a much larger trade volume. Bozkurt lays out a scenario, based on interviews with security officials and others, that Iran is setting Turkey up as a place to circumvent international sanctions against it and also to infiltrate Turkey with agents who could provoke the Turkish public.

…The Iranians use Turkish partners in setting up front companies, to further complicate matters for Turkish authorities. The worry is that some of these serve as a conduit to finance rallies, for example, against the government decision to host the US radar installation as part of the NATO missile shield system. Others use schemes like charity events and fund-raising drives — using mostly the Palestinian cause laced with anti-Semitic rhetoric — to mobilize people in Turkey. In recent months, Syria has also been thrown into the mix under the classic imperial appetite of the West to interfere in the Middle East…

Bozkurt also takes a close look at the language of a recent health-related Memorandum of Understanding between Turkey and Iran that is soon to be put to parliament. The opposition CHP has objected to loose language that would permit both countries to cooperate “in areas deemed necessary” in addition to health. Given that, after Turkey agreed to allow the US radar installation, Iran threatened to attack Turkey in case of a military strike on its nuclear installations, Bozkurt’s wake-up call should be heeded.

Who Is Immune From Prosecution? Who Isn’t?!

An article in the pro-Islamic Today’s Zaman criticized the AKP government’s recent move in parliament to grant MIT (Turkey’s CIA) officials immunity from prosecution unless approved by the prime minister.  (See my posts on this below.) The newspaper then examines who else is immune from prosecution. It seems a whole lot of people are! (click here) An excerpt:

…Article 129 of the Constitution states, “The prosecution of public servants and other public employees for alleged offenses shall be subject, except in cases prescribed by law, to the permission of the administrative authority designated by law.”…

A detailed report published this week by the State Audit Institution (DDK) on what went wrong in the trial of the murderers of Armenian-Turkish journalist Hrant Dink in 2007 blamed the protections bestowed upon public employees for preventing effective prosecution of negligence in his murder…

The DDK inspectors stated that in this country you cannot bring those who acted on behalf of the state to trial. It all originated with members of the ultranationalist Committee of Union and Progress (CUP) who raided the seat of government, known as the raid of Bab-ı Ali, in January 1913. On Feb. 13, 1913, they bypassed Parliament to adopt an interim law on the trying of civil servants, exempting civil servants from being tried for offenses they had committed. The law has remained in effect for 86 years — despite the fact that it was created by the coup stagers who bypassed the parliamentary process. In 1999, it was converted into the Immunity of Government Officials Law 4483… Immunity is actually spelled out in a much stronger fashion in the 1982 Constitution…

Apart from immunity for politicians and members of the judiciary and the military, several professional groups also benefit from immunity. Among them are general directors, board members, governors, members of city councils who are employed under the Law on Trial of Civil Servants and Other Government Officials, mayors, civil servants and other municipal employees and village heads.

Police officers, gendarmes, night guards in rural area, coast guards, forest guards and civil servants and managers at the State Waterworks Authority (DSİ), the General Directorate of Highways, the Social Services and Child Protection Agency (SHÇEK), the State Meteorology Bureau, the Turkish Statistics Institute (TurkStat), the Turkish Atomic Energy Agency (TAEK), the Religious Affairs Directorate and the İstanbul Waterworks Authority (İSKİ) can be tried only if their superiors approve the cases.

Members of the judiciary and the military also have immunity, enshrined in the Law on the Supreme Court of Appeals and the Law on the Military Supreme Court of Appeals. Rectors cannot stand trial without the permission of the Higher Education Board (YÖK), and academics cannot stand trial without the approval of rectors. The 1982 Constitution disallowed the prosecution of the 1982 coup generals based on temporary Article No. 15, which was removed with a constitutional amendment adopted in a public referendum in 2010. Politicians, however, cannot escape trial once their parliamentary immunity is lifted…

The Abyssinian Proof In Gabarone

My novel, The Abyssinian Proof, was reviewed for a Botswana site by Sheridan Griswold. (click here)

Girls In The East

Kızlar ve Kökler from HADD on Vimeo.

Move, Countermove

The MIT (Turkey’s CIA) Istanbul regional chairman has been removed from office and replaced.  This is a post in line for moving up to MIT Deputy Undersecretary. The MIT Undersecretary, deputy undersecretary, and former undersecretary were all called to give statements as subjects of an investigation into support for PKK-related terrorist groups (see my previous post of Feb. 14). There was a struggle, with the MIT men refusing to go to court. The prosecutor was removed from the case, and parliament amended the MIT law to make the prime minister’s approval mandatory for investigation of MIT and other officials appointed by the Prime Minister (pointedly excluding military officers, who are on trial for plotting coups). In addition, several police directors were dismissed and 700 police officers were sent to provinces in eastern Turkey, receiving an “appointment to the orient”. (click here)