Recent reading

by Jacob Grier on February 21, 2012

Republic, Lost: How Money Corrupts Congress — and a Plan to Stop It, Lawrence Lessig — The first thing I did when this book arrived is flip to the index and look up “public choice theory.” There’s no entry for it. Then I looked up James Buchanan and Gordon Tullock. Again no entries. Finally I tried Mancur Olson, who merits only a passing mention in the text and a very brief footnote. This was not a good sign: For a book that’s devoted to explaining how and why Congress has been captured by special interests, it’s bizarre that the branch of economics that studies precisely that topic is almost completely absent from the text.

Lessig focuses instead on campaign finance and makes a strong argument that our current system is very flawed. He’s also admirably cognizant that restricting spending is equivalent to restricting speech. His argument is at its strongest when discussing the pandering that results from forcing candidates to collect donations in tiny increments, although this could be ameliorated by simply lifting contribution limits and requiring disclosure instead of his preferred plan for public financing.

Ultimately the focus on the single problem of campaign finance makes Lessig’s diagnosis unsatisfying. It’s tempting to believe that by fixing one big problem we could achieve a much better democracy. However government fails for many additional reasons, perhaps the largest being that it’s simply irrational for voters to become informed and vote accordingly (see Caplan). I’m more sympathetic to Lessig’s suggested reforms than I was before reading this book, but it requires a much stronger case to show they would bring about anything more than marginal improvements in governance.

Adapt: Why Success Always Starts with Failure, Tim Harford — Here’s one from the “don’t judge a book by its cover” department. Had I not already been familiar with Tim Harford’s writing I could have easily passed this by as just another business book. It’s much deeper than that, a compelling analysis of how successful adaptation requires allowing room for failure and feedback from the bottom-up, whether in government, private institutions, or personal life. I would give the chapter on climate change to everyone I know who favors piecemeal, top-down policies over a simple carbon tax. Highly recommended.

Thai Food and Thai Street Food, David Thompson — These are just incredible books. The first is indispensable for understanding Thai cooking. The second is full of stunning photos and recipes. Everything I’ve tried so far has been excellent, though many of the recipes require significant prep or hunting for ingredients. An exception is the neua pat bai grapao from the street food book, a stir-fry of beef loaded with basil, garlic, and fish sauce, then topped with a crispy fried egg, that has become one of my go-to dishes for a quick dinner.

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Bitter End

by Jacob Grier on February 20, 2012

Bitter_End

After a couple of month’s hiatus, Mixology Monday returns today with a Tiki theme from Doug at the Pegu Blog:

The Tiki scene, like classic cocktails in general, is reviving nicely these days. The lush, decadent marriage of tropical flavors and exotic kitsch carries us away to a better, less dreary place. Please join in and add your words, images, and offerings to the Tiki Gods on the 20th. Since Tiki is more than just the drinks, feel free to post on whatever Tiki subject floats your outrigger canoe. I suspect most of you will want to offer up delectable drinks, but feel free to wax eloquent on aloha shirts, exotica music, decor, garnishes, food or whatever else moves you to enter the Tiki spirit!

The Bitter End is a cocktail I originally submitted to Portland Monthly for their Super Bowl drinks feature. Todd Steele, the owner of Metrovino, is a big 49ers fan, so this year’s football season came to a bitter end for him. In recognition of that we decided to make a cocktail with San Francisco’s favorite bitter liqueur, Fernet Branca. It just so happens to be a perfect fit for this month’s Tiki theme too:

1 oz Fernet Branca
1 oz lime juice
1 oz B. G. Reynold’s orgeat

Shake all ingredients with ice, strain into a glass filled with crushed ice, and garnish with a cocktail umbrella and cherries for bonus tiki points. Alternatively, just gulp the whole thing down quickly.

As far as cocktail construction goes, this is as basic as it gets: Equal parts of stuff that’s really bitter, really tart, and really sweet. Yet it all works. If the one ounce of Fernet is intimidating, worry not. This is actually a pretty sweet drink. If you’re making this with a different orgeat, you may need to adjust the recipe to account for relative sweetness.

For fun I also tried making this drink with the new Fernet Leopold from Colorado. This is a very minty take on the spirit, a bit more so than I prefer for sipping (though some of my friends love it), so I’ve been wanting to try it mixed. If you’d like to sample a mintier version of the Bitter End, give it a shot.

Finally, here a few other loosely Tiki-themed drinks from the archives:

Transatlantic Mai Tai — An all-grain version of the Mai Tai substituting rye and genever for the usual rums.

Kooey Kooey Kooey Cocktail — Rum, coconut milk, coconut porter, allspice dram, and a few other ingredients combine in this Tiki-themed beer cocktail.

Lazy Bear — One of the best-selling drinks at Metrovino, featuring the fantastic Smith & Cross rum from Jamaica.

Seigle Sour — It’s a whiskey drink, but the plantain syrup arguably takes it into Tiki territory.

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NOLA Kopstootje

If you’re a regular reader of this site, you know that ordering a Kopstootje, Dutch for “little headbutt,” will get you a tulip glass of genever and a glass of beer. Typically the beer would be a simple lager, but here in Portland we took the idea further by collaborating with the local Upright Brewery to create a beer specifically designed to pair with Bols Genever, Upright Kopstootje Biere. This lightly spiced biere de garde has been a hit two years running, but if you haven’t been in Portland to catch one of the fewer than twenty kegs produced each batch then you’ve had no way to try it.

We enjoyed this collaboration between distillery and brewery so much that we decided to bring it to more cities. To do that we’ve partnered with another rock star brewer, Brian Strumke of Stillwater Ales. Brian set out to create his own perfect match to Bols Genever. His Stillwater Artisanal Kopstootje is a saison-style ale made with barley, rye, wheat, and corn, spiced with botanicals to complement the spirit. Brian is a gypsy brewer who travels the world making unique beers, so I can’t wait to taste what he’s come up with.

Beginning later this month, we’re kicking off a seven-city tour to launch the pairing. We’re starting in New Orleans, then working our way up the East Coast, and finally wrapping up in Chicago. All events are open to the public, so please stop by and order a Kopstootje. I’ll personally be at the events in New Orleans, DC, Chicago, and probably Boston. Lucas Bols Master Distiller Piet van Leijenhorst will visit in New York. Brian from Stillwater and Tal Nadari from Lucas Bols will be attending events as well.

Below is our current schedule of events, which I will update with dates and times as they become available. I hope to see you there!

New Orleans
Monday, 2/27 at Cure, 5-7 pm.
Monday, 2/27 at Bellocq, 11 pm - late.
Tuesday, 2/28 at Avenue Pub, 6 pm.

Baltimore
Wednesday, 2/29 at Alewife.
Wednesday, 2/29 at Ten Ten.

Washington, DC
Thursday, 3/1 at Jack Rose. (6-9 pm)

Philadelphia
Monday, 3/5 at Farmer’s Cabinet.

New York
Tuesday, 3/6 at Vandaag.
Wednesday, 3/7 at Alewife.

Boston
Dates and locations pending.

Chicago
Wednesday, 3/14 at Bangers and Lace.
Wednesday, 3/14 at Three Aces.

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Bols Genever

Over the next two weeks I’ll be traveling to put on a few events with Bols Genever in Colorado and Texas:

Bols Genever Denver Launch — Tuesday, February 7, 1-3 pm at Colt and Gray. Enjoy genever punch, cocktails, and a Kopstootje. Industry and press only.

Guest Shift at Bitter Bar — Wednesday, February 8, 5-7 pm at Bitter Bar in Boulder. I’ll be behind the bar with a guest menu of Bols and Galliano cocktails. Open to the public.

Bols Genever Austin Launch — Wednesday, February 15, 1-3 pm at Haddington’s. Enjoy genever punch, cocktails, and a Kopstootje. Industry and press only.

Guest Shift in Houston — Thursday, February 16. I’m still working on a venue for this one but hoping to make it happen.

To RSVP for our Denver or Austin launches, contact me here.

[Photo from our Portland launch courtesy of Lush Angeles.]

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Links for 2/1 12

by Jacob Grier on February 1, 2012

The Caging of America:

The scale and the brutality of our prisons are the moral scandal of American life. Every day, at least fifty thousand men—a full house at Yankee Stadium—wake in solitary confinement, often in “supermax” prisons or prison wings, in which men are locked in small cells, where they see no one, cannot freely read and write, and are allowed out just once a day for an hour’s solo “exercise.” (Lock yourself in your bathroom and then imagine you have to stay there for the next ten years, and you will have some sense of the experience.) Prison rape is so endemic—more than seventy thousand prisoners are raped each year—that it is routinely held out as a threat, part of the punishment to be expected. The subject is standard fodder for comedy, and an uncoöperative suspect being threatened with rape in prison is now represented, every night on television, as an ordinary and rather lovable bit of policing. The normalization of prison rape—like eighteenth-century japery about watching men struggle as they die on the gallows—will surely strike our descendants as chillingly sadistic, incomprehensible on the part of people who thought themselves civilized.

The Economist explains what’s at stake in a fight over proposed tequila labeling regulations.

Lucinda Williams, The Shins, and Bone Luge all in one NPR podcast. Anna Brones is not on board with the Bone Luge. New York Times editor Sam Sifton isn’t either, but he would still “totally do it.”

Metrovino’s new chef Victor Deras takes the reins today. Eater asks him what he has planned for the restaurant.

Cheers magazine takes a look at the beer cocktails trend.

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Super Bowl Punch Out!

by Jacob Grier on January 31, 2012

Apparently there is some kind of sporting event happening this Sunday. Thrillist Portland invited Jeff McCarthy from TenTop/Kitchen Cru, Janis Martin from Tanuki, and me and the Brewing Up Cocktails team to contribute a few recipes for readers’ Super Bowl gatherings. We all managed to make things just a little bit weird: a fermented beef sausage from Janis, Doritios encrusted wings from Jeff, and a gin, IPA, and Galliano punch from us. Any host that makes all three of these is guaranteed to have a memorable party.

Visit Thrillist for all three recipes. Here’s the punch:

2 12 oz bottles IPA or pale ale, chilled
6 oz gin
6 oz orange liqueur
3 oz lime juice
2 oz Galliano
1/2 cucumber, sliced

Combine ingredients in a punch bowl, add ice, and serve. Some dilution is beneficial here so if you’re using a large ice block consider adding a few smaller cubes as well. We didn’t want to call for specific brands in the Thrillist post, but in my own testing I used Damrak for the gin, Mandarine Napoleon for the orange liqueur, and Full Sail IPA for the beer. I like this combination but feel free to make substitutions.

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We’ve created a monster

by Jacob Grier on January 27, 2012

This Bone Luge thing is getting out of control! The new issue of New York Magazine ranks the Bone Luge on its weekly Approval Matrix, declaring it slightly highbrow and mostly despicable.

K103 reporter Felicia Heaton has a friendlier take on the topic. She stopped into Metrovino for her first taste of marrow and followed it up with a madeira Bone Luge, declaring both delicious. Watch the video below and click over to K103 for the full story.

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Links for 1/21/12

by Jacob Grier on January 21, 2012

Long read for the day: 2010 Jacob Sullum piece on why Citizens United was essentially correct, protects speech, and changes much less than people think it does.

A brief history of Super PACs from Paul Sherman.

Chris Snowdon on the spread of campus smoking bans. There are now more than 600 smoke-free campuses in the US.

Derek Brown contemplates binge drinking.

The Bone Luge captured on video! The crew at Ludivine in Oklahoma City shows you how it’s done:

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Look on my works, ye mighty!

by Jacob Grier on January 20, 2012

Last night the Romney campaign put out a press release collecting some of Newt Gingrich’s more “grandiose” statements. Coming from a presidential candidate, they’re frightening. Repurposed as lines of dialogue for Ozymandias from Watchmen, they’re an eerily perfect fit.

doingit

civilization

departure

ideasman

revolutionary

leader

transformational

Have more quotes for OzyNewt? Make them here.

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horsebrass 021

Something Not Unlike Research” is a health care blog I recently came across written by two university professors. One of them, Bill Gardner, wrote this week in defense of employers choosing not to hire smokers. He concluding by noting that “Smoking is a vice that benefits no one.” I took him to task for this last line on Twitter:

“Smoking is a vice that benefits no one.” — @Bill_Gardner Oh please. I like it. It benefits me! Arrogant assumption.

To my surprise, he responded in a new post:

My point is that I do not see a compelling argument against employers choosing not to hire them. By extension, we should have no public policies protecting access to employment for smokers (or bone lugers). This is, I believe, consistent with Mill’s view that

The only purpose for which power can be rightfully exercised over any member of a civilized community, against his will, is to prevent harm to others. His own good, either physical or moral, is not sufficient warrant.

I do want to see smoking go away, and I think social pressure is what makes that happen. (”Social pressure” is not, I think what Mill means by “exercising power”.) To that end, I think it is legitimate to ban smoking in public places, and for employers to refuse to hire smokers if they judge that to be in the interest of their firms.

Having conceded that smoking may benefit Jacob’s subjective well-being, can I still say that “smoking is a vice that benefits no one”? I certainly can, if it’s understood that benefit refers to the long-term well-being of smokers, and those who depend upon them, rather than immediate subjective well-being. In that sense of benefit, there is nothing to be said for smoking or binge drinking.

(NB: The binge drinking reference is about the bone luge, which happened to be the top post on my site when he visited. The photo definitely makes his post more awesome but I’ll stick to the smoking discussion!)

I’ll elaborate in more than the 140 characters allowed by Twitter. To start, I agree with Bill that smokers shouldn’t be a protected class of worker. I think refusing to hire smokers is generally a silly policy but that’s something the market can sort out. Where we disagree is in our assessment of smoking. He says that smoking is “a vice that benefits no one” in the long term, that “there is nothing to be said for smoking,” and that “I do want to see smoking go away.”

I know where he’s coming from because I used to make the same assumptions. I grew up believing everything bad about smoking and made it through high school and college without taking a single puff from a cigarette. My interest in tobacco began shortly after I started working as a barista. In conversation with a cigar-smoking friend, I realized that he talked about his stogies the same way I talked about coffee. The varietal of the plant and the origin of the leaf mattered, a Cameroon wrapper tasting differently than one from Nicaragua. Flavors ranged from light sun-grown tobacco to deep, dark maduro, much as coffee roasts came on a spectrum from light to dark. And he suggested that there was just as much difference between the hand-rolled cigars he was smoking and the mass produced cigarettes of Big Tobacco as there was between Folgers and the small batch beans I brewed.

Perhaps, I thought, there was more to tobacco than I realized. When I eventually tried a cigar for the first time I took to it at once. Doing that required getting over my own prejudices that had led to me viewing smoking as pure vice, an unhealthy and addictive habit without redeeming qualities.

I am not addicted to tobacco. I go weeks and months without it. Of the three mood-enhancing drugs I enjoy — caffeine, alcohol, and nicotine — the last would be by far the easiest to never again partake of. It’s unlikely that my occasional indulgence in a cigar will have any significant effects on my health, though there is a small chance that it will. In exchange cigars have given me wonderful experiences, both in taste and in the friendships that have deepened over contemplative, smoke-fueled conversations. I expect that cigars are a net benefit in my life on both the short and the long view. Perhaps additional evidence could persuade me otherwise, but it can’t simply be assumed that I’m mistaken.

Admittedly I don’t fit the median profile of a smoker. However the value that smokers get out of smoking is almost never acknowledged by anti-smoking activists, who treat smoking as inherently wrong. Unlike them, and perhaps unlike Bill, I don’t want to see a completely smoke-free America. I want to see smoking substantially reduced. I’d like for people to smoke less and smoke better, using products other than cigarettes, which seem to be the most dangerous form of tobacco. (It’s also worth noting that the employment policies that inspired these posts are enforced via urine tests for nicotine, which wouldn’t discriminate between pack-a-day smokers and those who smoke rarely or those who are trying to quit with the aid of nicotine patches or gums.)

Semantics aside, activists’ unwillingness to consider the benefits of smoking leads to excessively restrictive policies. Let’s take smoking bans for example. Consider two businesses:

Business 1 is a tobacco shop with an attached lounge that offers beer and wine. Customers are allowed to smoke there. It’s a freestanding building with no immediate neighbors, so no one except customers and employees is affected by the smoking. Four people are employed serving drinks in the lounge. A smoking ban passes that forces the business to eliminate drink service. The day the ban takes effect those four employees lose their jobs.

Business 2 is a restaurant that serves Dungeness crab caught in the Pacific Northwest. Commercial fishing has one of the highest fatality rates of any occupation and crabbing in this region is often the highest of all. For comparison, the average annual fatality rate for all occupations is 4 per 100,000 workers. For fishing as a whole the rate is 115/100,000. For Dungeness crab fishermen in the Pacific Northwest the rate is 463/100,000. (Source here.) There are no proposals to forbid restaurants from serving Dungeness crab.

The comparison might seem silly, but why? Dungeness crab is delicious but it’s hardly a staple in the food supply. Fishermen are literally dying to put it on our plates. Though the level of risk associated with secondhand smoke exposure is in dispute, it would be astonishing if the danger of pouring beer in a smoky room was at all comparable to crabbing on a stormy ocean. So again, why the disparity in how we treat these workers?

The number of actual deaths resulting from Dungeness crabbing is low since it’s a small industry, but it provides a model for how we normally regulate occupational risk. We don’t ban dangerous jobs, we try to discover reasonable rules to make them safer. Safety regulations have apparently been successful in reducing the fatality rate among Alaskan Dungeness fishermen.

Let’s accept for the sake of argument that banning smoking in some places to protect patrons and employees is justified under Mill’s proviso. It’s much harder to argue that smoke-friendly businesses should be banned entirely. Our normal approach to worker safety would allow people to work in smoking venues, subject to reasonable rules about ventilation to minimize risk.

Yet exceptions to smoking bans are often unreasonably narrow, preventing consenting adults from making free exchanges with each other. This is because policy makers view smoking as inherently without value. The thought process goes something like this:

1) Smoking has no value.

2) Protecting workers has value.

3) Therefore it’s OK to ban smoking everywhere without worrying about smokers’ preferences.

This is why I vehemently object to statements such as Bill’s. They create an environment in which the rights of smokers, business owners, and workers are too easily violated. I’ve seen too many of my favorite places completely altered by smoking bans, to the dismay of owners, patrons, and employees. See my ode to one of them, the Horse Brass, in DoubleThink magazine. Business 1 above is another example; it’s an actual establishment outside of Portland.

In sketch form, here are two other arguments for how ignoring the benefits of smoking skews our thinking and leads to bad policy.

Electronic cigarettes — The view of many in tobacco control is that tobacco is inherently bad and that quitting should be smokers’ only goal. It would undeniably be a good thing if more smokers quit, but the obvious truth is that quitting is difficult and relapse is frequent. A new study concludes that even with increased use of nicotine replacement therapy and quitlines, the rate of successful cessation has remained unchanged.

E-cigarettes are a promising alternative for smokers who find it difficult to quit. They are undoubtedly safer than actual cigarettes and offer a substantial opportunity for harm reduction, whether used to quit entirely or just to reduce use of real tobacco. Their popularity is likely due in part to their similarity to cigarettes: their appearance, the ritual of lighting them up, the ability to manage nicotine levels through their use. They deliver many of the same benefits smokers’ get from cigarettes at a fraction of the health cost. Yet precisely for this reason they are treated with outright hostility by many in tobacco control, who blind themselves to e-cigarettes’ potential because of their puritanical view of smoking — including acts that mimic smoking — as inherently bad.

Flavored cigarettes — The legislation giving the FDA regulatory authority over tobacco included a ban on all flavorings except for menthol. The reprieve for menthol may only be temporary. Flavors are treated as dangerous additives but they’re essentially being banned because they make smoking more appealing and enjoyable. This is pure paternalism. If a consenting adult wants to have a clove cigarette, he should be allowed to buy a clove cigarette.

The preferences of smokers were never given a voice in this debate. Because smoking was simply assumed to have no value, smokers were dismissed as addicts who could only benefit from this legislation. Perversely, those of us who support consumer choice on menthol are accused of racism since menthol cigarettes are popular among African-Americans. It’s unclear at this point how FDA regulation may affect more artisanal forms of tobacco, but the industry is understandably worried: If the agency views tobacco as inherently bad, it’s unlikely to pass regulations in the interest of pipe and cigar consumers.

The costs of smoking are undeniably high, yet smoking has persisted even in the face of penalties as harsh as death. The habit is here to stay. Unfortunately, smoking has become synonymous with Big Tobacco and the lowly, lethal cigarette. There is much more to it than that, and more to say on its half behalf. But that will have to wait for a future post.

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Year of the Bone Luge

by Jacob Grier on January 14, 2012

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2012 is becoming the year of the Bone Luge even faster than I’d anticipated. The official Bone Luge Tumblr blog is taking submissions. Metrovino has Bone Luge pairing suggestions on the menu. In Denver, Tim Tebow fever has led to T-Boning, taking a Manhattan cocktail down a bone while assuming the Tebow position. And today Tasting Table picked up the story, introducing the Bone Luge to a sometimes skeptical world.

For the record, credit for taking the very first Bone Luge that I’m aware of goes to Danny Ronen on a night when he and I were enjoying copious amounts of tequila at Laurelhurst Market. It started as a joke, spread to the dining room via Twitter, and is now hitting the big time.

Ultimately, the Bone Luge is about increasing happiness in the world. Read the manifesto here. Above: Things get even sillier at Irvington Bierstube with the crab leg luge, paired with a late harvest riesling.

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Links for 1/14/12

by Jacob Grier on January 14, 2012

What is Austrian economics all about? Peter Boettke explains in Five Books.

How art history majors power the US economy.

The organization’s support for smoking bans and higher tobacco taxes is enough reason for me to never contribute to Livestrong. Contrary to popular perception, it turns out the group doesn’t channel the money it raises into cancer research.

Chris Moody scores the best presidential campaign interview: RuPaul on Ron Paul.

Lake Oswego realizes it actually can’t afford a streetcar.

Why your cat might have a craving for mushrooms.

The ballad of @horse_ebooks.

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Genever is genever

by Jacob Grier on January 12, 2012

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The title of this post doesn’t promise anything informative: Genever is genever. Yet when I hear people explain what genever is, they usually say something like “Genever is Dutch gin.” Or a kind of gin they drink in Holland. Or a malty style of gin that was popular in the United States before London dry took over. Gin gin gin gin gin. Look, I enjoy gin too — the gin shelf in my apartment is filled to overflowing — but genever is a different thing. Genever is genever. Labels are admittedly somewhat arbitrary, but I’d like to persuade you that there are good reasons to think of genever as its own distinct category of spirits.

I should first disclose that I’m not a disinterested party on this matter. I work for the Dutch distillery Lucas Bols and my job largely consists of encouraging people to drink more genever. It’s a better pitch for me to walk into a bar and say, “You should carry at least one genever” than it is to say, “You should carry an additional gin, and it should be this unusual Dutch one.” However that’s not the only reason I’m urging this change in classification. The spirit is maltier and less botanical than gin and it doesn’t mix in the same way. Calling genever a type of gin creates confusion.

Consider a typical consumer. He walks into a liquor store, sees a bottle of genever in the gin section, and is intrigued enough to buy it. He takes it home and puts it in his favorite gin drink, a Gin and Tonic. This is a classic pairing for a London dry. But genever and tonic? Eh, not so much. The bottle gets tucked away and forgotten.

Or consider a bartender who finds genever added to the gin section of his employer’s menu. He makes a Martini with it. Is that going to make him enthusiastic about genever? Probably not.

Both of these drinks are excellent with gin. They’re not ideally suited to genever. It’s no fault of the consumer or the bartender that the cocktails didn’t turn out as they’d hoped: They were told genever was gin, so they tried mixing it in absolutely standard gin drinks. They were given the wrong expectations about the product. If they knew what genever is actually like and how to use it, that disappointment could have been avoided. The first step in that education is getting them to think of genever as genever rather than as a kind of gin.

Here’s an analogy I sometimes use to explain my work with Lucas Bols. Imagine that your job was to promote tequila before many people in the United States had any idea what tequila was. You might tell them it’s sort of like rum, produced in the southern latitudes and with an affinity for mixing with lime and other citrus. Or you might tell them it’s like whiskey or brandy, aged in barrels and very nice to sip neat. Neither of these descriptions is completely accurate, but they give consumers a starting point for enjoying the spirit.

In fact, that is pretty close to how some Americans first encountered tequila. Bottles arrived in the American market labeled “Mexican Whiskey.” You can see these in the Sauza Family Museum in Tequila or in this photo. It’s an interesting snapshot of how an unknown spirit reached many consumers in the guise of something more familiar. (The labeling regulations didn’t get worked out until the 1970s.)

When we encounter a new spirit, our impulse is to understand it by reference to spirits we already know. This is perfectly sensible. But eventually, if we really want to know a spirit, we need to understand it on its own terms. For tequila, we need to know about agave, not grain. Tequila would have never thrived the way it has in the American market if it was forever viewed through the lens of whiskey, if its essential “agave-ness” were never allowed to shine through.

amsterdam-017

Genever today is in a similar position to those early tequilas. As genever re-entered the American market a few years ago, people needed an existing spirit to compare it to. They needed a section of their menu or their liquor store to put it in. Seizing on the etymology and botanicals it shares with gin, they reasonably grouped the two together. My view is that this classification misses the essence of the spirit, that genever is to “Dutch gin” as tequila is to “Mexican whiskey.” (Above: A photo I took at a liquor store in Amsterdam. There’s a lot of genever and it gets it own shelf!)

So if genever is not gin, what is it? The spirits do have one thing in common: They are both flavored with juniper berries. Early Dutch distillers sold spirits flavored with juniper and other botanicals for their alleged medicinal qualities. The spirits were produced in pot stills, which retain much of the character of the grain, producing a product that was essentially whiskey with botanicals added. It was called genever, from jeneverbes, the Dutch word for juniper. English speakers shortened this to gin.

With the invention of the column still in the nineteenth century, Dutch genever and English gin began to diverge in style. The English went for the new, purer spirit, essentially making botanical flavored vodka. The Dutch stuck with their malty genever. To distinguish between the two, English speakers called the latter “Holland’s gin.” It was a useful distinction until the triple blow of changing tastes, Prohibition, and World War II reduced genever’s prominence in the American market.

Thus gin evolved from genever, but that doesn’t mean that we should declare genever a kind of gin any more than we should think of the blues as just a proto-form of rock and roll. Gin and genever are “about” different things. Gin is primarily about botanicals. If you line up three different gins and want to describe the differences among them, you’re going to talk mostly about their botanical profiles. This one has very assertive juniper, this one is more floral, this one has a licorice note, etc.

Genever is partly about botanicals, but it’s also about the malty base spirit. As agave is to tequila, this maltwine (moutwijn) is to genever. When tasting different genevers, the differences in maltwine and the effects of barrel ageing are at least as important as the botanicals, often even more important.

As I write this I am sipping on a glass of the Bols 10 year old Corenwyn, one of the maltier styles of genever. There is juniper in it, but its presence isn’t obvious in either taste or aroma. The flavor is of grain mellowed by a decade of barrel ageing. It’s very good neat. If I had to compare it to another popular spirit category, I’d undoubtedly choose whiskey over gin. However it’s not quite that either. The botanicals are there, and they do make a difference.

This particular bottling isn’t currently available in the states, but aged genevers are starting to appear. A few months ago Bols introduced Bols Barrel Aged Genever, which is aged for a minimum of one and a half years in oak. It’s more than 50% maltwine, as is the original Bols Genever. As these spirits arrive in the market, the classification of genever as a type of gin is going to become more and more inapt.

Take the 10 year old bottle I mentioned. Let’s say you went to Amsterdam and brought a bottle back for your bar. You could insist, if you like, that any spirit that has so much as kissed a juniper berry counts as gin. But you would have to explain that this is a very strange gin that’s made mostly from a whiskey-like grain distillate, that’s aged for years in oak barrels, that doesn’t really taste like juniper at all, and that’s good in cocktails but also very nice on its own with no chilling or dilution. You could say all that. Or you could say, “genever is genever.”

I think the latter approach is simpler and more sensible. Take a couple examples from the press this week. Today at The Atlantic Clay Risen has a good article about barrel aged gins:

My favorite so far (and the most widely available) is Lucas Bols’s Barrel-Aged Genever. Unlike most gins available in the United States, Bols and other Dutch gins, or genevers, use a maltwine base, a combination of corn, rye, and wheat. They are also less intensely distilled, and usually through pot, rather than column, stills, producing a robust whiskey-like quaff, which connoisseurs prefer to drink chilled and neat. It’s thick, like a liqueur; you wouldn’t think to mix it with tonic for a summer-day quencher.

I’m delighted that he enjoys our product, but that’s a lot of words to explain how unlike gin our gin is! The classification is straining at the seams.

Here’s another from The Oregonian, which on Tuesday published its annual list of “100 Things We Love.” Kopstootje Biere, our collaboration with Portland’s Upright Brewery to create a beer designed specifically to pair with Bols Genever, made the list. That makes me very happy. Yet here’s how they introduced it: “A traditional Dutch ceremony consisting of genever, a type of gin, with a beer back.” If you know about genever, or especially if you tried this pairing last year, you know that this is a tasty combination. But to everyone else, a glass of gin with a beer on the side probably doesn’t sound very appealing. Even if you like gin, you don’t ever drink it like that.

So let’s stop saying that genever is gin. If someone asks what genever is, say “genever is genever.” From there you can explain how the spirit is made, where it comes from, and what it tastes like. Maybe after that talk about its relation to gin. Gin is wonderful and its evolution is a neat story, but it is not the story of genever.

flying-hart-1

If you’ve read this far, the least I can do is offer you a cocktail. At the beginning of this post I mentioned that putting genever in gin cocktails doesn’t always work. Sometimes it does; I’ve had delicious twists on the French 75 and the Corpse Reviver #2, to name a couple. However at other times it makes a better stand-in for whiskey and substituting genever in your favorite whiskey cocktails is a promising way of coming up with new drinks.

This one is the latest addition to our menu at Metrovino, featuring Bols Barrel Aged Genever. It’s a fairly straightforward adaptation of one of my favorite rye cocktails, The Remember the Maine. In keeping with the sunken ship theme, it’s named the Flying Hart (Vliegenthart), after a notable Dutch shipwreck.

2 oz Bols Barrel Aged Genever
1 oz sweet vermouth (Dolin)
1/4 oz cherry Heering
2 dashes Brooklyn Hemispherical fig bitters
1 dash absinthe

Stir, serve up, and garnish with a cherry. Prost!

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Links for 1/5/12

by Jacob Grier on January 5, 2012

Happy new year, Utah! Happy hour is now illegal in your state.

Inside F&B asked a bunch of us in the spirits industry about our most memorable drinks of the year. The round-up is here.

In defense of speculators, the Starbucks example.

Who’s the best presidential candidate on civil liberties? The ACLU grades the contenders.

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2011 blog in review

by Jacob Grier on December 31, 2011

It’s time again for the annual blog review. This year’s stats are slightly complicated by a combination of two freak server accidents happening within a short time of each other, which resulted in the loss of dozens of posts. I was able to recover them from the RSS feed, but it took months for search traffic to catch up to previous levels. Thus overall traffic is down a bit this year, but I suspect it would have beaten 2010 without that incident.

The number of visits tracked on Google Analytics is 91,504 compared to 99,423 in 2010. Measured by SiteMeter, the numbers are 105,669 for this year compared to 116,764. As with last year, my frequency of posting has declined with more content going instead to social media, including Twitter, Facebook, and Google+.

Google is of course the number one source of traffic. 62% of traffic came from search referrals, up from 53% last year. Referrals from other sites dropped from 31% to 21%. Direct traffic stayed about the same at 17% compared to 15%.

Camel crickets, miracle fruit, and the stapler’s secret continue to dominate the top four spots for most viewed posts. Approximately one fifth of my total site traffic is related to camel crickets. I also find it hilarious that the silly stapler post is still so popular. Only three of the year’s most viewed posts were written in 2011: the April Fool’s Day post about homeopathic cocktails, a qualified defense of Ayn Rand accepting Medicare, and some notes on rum and trademark law. No posts about tobacco policy made the list.

Top Posts of 2011
1. Camel crickets invade DC
2. How to get rid of camel crickets
3. Miracle fruit — I’m a believer!
4. The stapler’s secret
5. Homeopathic cocktails: Blessing or curse?
6. A qualified defense of Ayn Rand on Medicare
7. Finally, sampling miracle fruit tablets
8. Made in Oregon, stolen by Portland
9. Rum and trademarks
10. Everybody loves an Irish Car Bomb

A few posts that I liked, but that didn’t make the top ten:
Two years later, no heart miracle in Oregon
Literature-inspired food carts in Portland, Ore., that did not stay in business for very long
Signs of Occupy Portland
Crystal Caipirinha and Cleared for Departure
In memory of Don Younger

I didn’t think t was possible, but this year’s list of top ten search phrases is even more dominated by crickets than 2010’s. Once again my name is technically on the list, but I’ve removed it because I find it hard to believe that that’s not partially due to a bookmarking glitch.

Top search referrals of 2011
1. camel cricket
2. camel crickets
3. spider cricket
4. spider crickets
5. Ayn Rand Medicare
6. weird fish
7. how to get rid of camel crickets
8. crickets
9. allspice dram
10. miracle fruit party

There are no surprises in the geography of the site’s readership. The top ten countries are almost exactly the same as last year, with Spain replacing Malaysia in the tenth spot. Portland, New York, and Washington are again the top three cities.

Top visitor countries from 2011
1. United States
2. United Kingdom
3. Canada
4. Australia
5. Philippines
6. Germany
7. India
8. France
9. Netherlands
10. Spain

Top visitor cities for 2011
1. Portland
2. New York
3. Washington
4. Chicago
5. Seattle
6. Los Angeles
7. San Francisco
8. Philadelphia
9. London
10. Houston

Last year Radley Balko’s site The Agitator was my top referrer and I was recently able to follow through on my promise to buy him drinks. This year his site doesn’t even make the top ten, so next time drinks are on him! I only recently became a contributor to Gojee, so it’s great to see that site doing so well. Behold the power of the cords at #9. I have no idea what the Etiquette Hell referral is about.

Top non-search referrers for 2011
1. Facebook
2. Liqurious
3. Reddit
4. StumbleUpon
5. Twitter
6. Gojee
7. Kids Prefer Cheese
8. Velvet Glove, Iron Fist
9. Corduroy Appreciation Club
10. Etiquette Hell

Thanks to everyone for reading. If all goes according to plan, I’ll have a redesigned site and more content coming this spring. Here’s to 2012!

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Miscellaneous year end list

by Jacob Grier on December 31, 2011

Best dish: Giant platter of meat, but especially the brisket, at Black’s in Lockhart, TX.

Runner-up best dish: Knuckle Sandwich (stew of oxtail, tendon, and other bits, served with amazing bread) at A-Frame in Los Angeles. NB: Alcohol was involved.

Best drinking experience: Kopstootjes at De Drie Fleschjes, a tasting room operating in Amsterdam since 1650.

Best bartending experience: State Policy Network speakeasy party at Naga in Bellevue, WA. 200 libertarians, one punch bowl, and a whole lot of classic cocktails.

Go-to cigar: Berger and Argenti Entubar Quad Maduro. Perfect for my palate and has a striking appearance to highlight its unique rolling method.

Best reading experience: Infinite Jest. No it didn’t come out in 2011, but reading it in the spring reignited my interest in fiction.

Best new music: Decemberists, The King is Dead. I loved it on the first listen and it hasn’t suffered from repetition.

Most surprising comic book: Jeff Lemire, Travel Foreman, and Jeff Huet on “Animal Man.” The art, characterization, and story are all absolutely spot on.

Best magic experience: Performing the Fast and Loose con game at various Portland street festivals.

Newly appreciated product: Sherry. Both on its own or in cocktails, I’m going through more of this than ever before.

Product I wish was in the US: Bols Yogurt Liqueur. Seriously.

Prediction for 2012: Year of the Bone Luge. Seriously.

Most anticipated bar for 2012: Haymerchant, new beer bar in Houston, TX, from the folks behind Anvil.

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Links for 12/28/11

by Jacob Grier on December 28, 2011

Gary Johnson officially declares candidacy for the Libertarian Party nomination. Ron Paul is topping the polls in Iowa. More voters are leaving the major parties to register as independents. Approval of Congress is at an all-time low. Is a libertarian moment on the horizon?

Another libertarian think tank in the pocket of Big Tattoo and Big Fish Pedicure.

Indian magicians seek official recognition of magic as an art form, so that they can receive government support.

Ryan Conklin rounds up some holiday beer cocktails.

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