Greetings from Jalalabad, Afghanistan -- last stop for those on their way to and from Pakistan. We're so close to that world, they actually prefer Pakistani money over their own national currency.
While I knew I was coming to do work in Jalalabad, I hadn't realized that arriving by air from Kabul (the main road continues to suffer from inconsistant security) meant having to take an old Russian Helicopter into a joint US-Afghan military base. An unexpected stop that gave me a chance to briefly look around and see how things look and feel as I make my way from the helipad to the front gate. I was both curious and concerned to be in a Forward Operating Base.
![](http://library.vu.edu.pk/cgi-bin/nph-proxy.cgi/000100A/http/web.archive.org/web/20120920061522im_/http:/=2ffarm7.static.flickr.com/6129/5978773243_964ee0ba2e.jpg)
As I step off the tarmac I notice a group of soldiers with the US flag on their arms. They don't seem happy to see me, maybe I look like a do-gooder hippy who doesn't belong on a military base. Either way, after some unpleasant small talk I walked on, noticing the different facilities and signs along the way. As I walk along the wide lanes, between walls and temporary buildings, soldiers in shorts and T-shirts jog by listening to their ipods. They're not surprised to see me and they're firmly focused on their workout anyway. Up in the guard towers I notice Afghan Military, they give me a hard look as I walk past. Again a jogging soldier runs by, followed by a foot patrol chatting with another soldier. Interestingly the closer I get to the gate, the more I notice the high percentage of Afghan soldiers running things. Gates, doors, towers, I said to myself, "I guess they're slowly taking control of the base operation, maybe in preparation for the troop reduction." Not very difficult to deduce, I know, but still, it was interesting to see. The Afghan troops I encountered looked very capable. I could be wrong, but their posture and attitude gave me the impression of well trained and capable. An impression I have not had when meeting, say, the Afghan National Police patrolling city streets.
As I pass exit after exit, eventually I'm standing on a narrow lane with vegetable plantations on either side of it. There are kids and adults hanging around chatting and trying to escape the heat under a tree. I'm relieved as I see a driver pull up who knows my name and has been assigned to come get me. We ride into Jalalabad and my eyes are fixed on the never-ending shops and tiny enterprises along the road. Everyone is busy working on something, and dotting the urban landscape are these massive Pakistani trucks, hand painted with jaw dropping fresco's. The other common site are community centers, many used for training and education, in English and Pashto (the language in this region). Seems like most of the big players in international assistance, as well as many unknown smaller ones, are working here, and their buildings are bustling with activity. Are they reaching the people they had hoped to? The journalist in me is tempted to try and find out, but I've got my own assignment, as the car drives on.
Once you're well clear of the base and into the city, you can almost forget there is anything like a war going on, or that there is a risk of some kind of attack. Life goes on and keeps everyone quite busy. Occasionally a military armored patrol vehicle drives through and everyone gets out of the way. But their presence doesn't phase anyone, and just like me, people are busy living life as best as it can be lived in this place under these circumstances.
The next night, some tweets come in from journalists in the region about
an attack on a NATO airbase in Jalalabad. Not the one I arrived at, but another one nearby. Together with friends, we climb to high ground to catch a glimpse of what is happening. We don't hear much and the night sky is calm. Later we learn that the attack was easily thwarted. Still, it is a reminder that while there may be many a good day, the attacks are still coming, and anyone living here (or just temporarily working here) shouldn't forget that fact.
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