Emolga Plush

Well it took me forever to get this pattern typed out and posted here....  too much going on and not nearly enough 'spare' time LOL.

As always,  I'm not entirely happy with the face  (I always wish I could do the faces better).  The pictures don't show the tail structure,  something happened to the camera and the other pics we took of the back got corrupted,  but I'll get the kids to get some better pics of the back and tail and add them here ASAP.

The pattern is a little different when it comes to the 'wings'  it's not an 'exact' pattern,  it's just a set of basic instructions --  because every Emolga is going to need a slightly different size wing to fit properly.  Please read through that part completely before beginning so that you'll have a pretty good idea of how it should work.

I'm REALLY hoping to get another doll made soon,  now that the taxes are behind us (whew),  my daughter's birthday will be past us as well....and garden planting season is winding down a bit....I HOPE to have more of my time for myself  LOL

As usual,  if you find anything wrong in the pattern,  or just have a question,  please feel free to either post here, or send me a quick email at WolfDreamerOTH (at) gmail.com.

Materials:

WW Yarn in white, black and yellow

Size 6 hook

Fiberfill

Small scraps of felt in black (eyes), white (ear inset and eyes) and yellow (cheek patches)

NOTES:

Gauge is not important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook size and individual tension result in a fairly firm fabric.

Some of the parts (wing span) may require adjustment on your part. Since everyone crochets slightly different tension and this, combined with different brands of yarn and stuffing may result in you needing to shorthen or lengthen the wing to fit your doll properly.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of the instructions for each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row (to give you something against which to check your work for accuracy)

BODY:

(using white yarn)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: *sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 4: *sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (32)

Rnd 5: *sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (40)

Rnd 6: *sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 7: *sc in the next 5 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (56)

Rnd 8-16: sc in each sc around (56)

Rnd 17: *sc in next 12 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (52)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (52)

Rnd 19: *sc in next 11 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (48)

(if you haven't begun stuffing yet, now is a good time to begin. Stuff body firmly and shape while stuffing. Continue stuffing and shaping as you progress)

Rnd 21: *sc in next 10 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (44)

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (44)

Rnd 23: *sc in next 9 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (40)

Rnd 24: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 25: *sc in next 8 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 26: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 27: *sc in next 5 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (30)

Fasten off (F/O) your yarn, weave in your end. Add a little extra stuffing at the neck opening. You want some stuffing 'bulging' out of the opening, so that when you place the head on the neck opening it will create a firm join and will be less likely to 'flop' at the neck.

HEAD:

Beginning with white yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 7: *sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (42)

Rnd 8: *sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 9: *sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (54)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around, change to black yarn in last stitch of round (54)

Rnd 11-18: sc in each sc around (54)

Rnd 19: *sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 20: *sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (42)

(begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, stuff firmly and shape as you stuff. Continue to stuff and shape as you progress)

Rnd 21: *sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 22: *sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 23: *sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 22: *sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 21: *sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (12)

F/O. Add any stuffing that may be needed to finish shaping the head. Weave the tail through the last round of sc, tug up gently to close the opening completely. Secure the yarn and weave in your ends.

Hand/Arms (make 2)

Rnd 1: Ch 6. Sc in second sc from hook and in each sc across (you should have 5 sc at this point), now turn your work so that the bottom of the chain is now facing up and sc in the 'free' loop of each chain across. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc . (10 sc in an 'elongated' round)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 3: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 8: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Rnd 9-10: sc in each sc around.

F/O and stuff arm evenly and firmly. Weave in end.

Hand:

On the closed end of the arm (at rnd 1) attach your yarn to one corner of the end. Chain 2. *hdc, chain 1, sc in next place on the 'hand' part of arm; repeat from * twice more – placing your final sc on the 'edge' of the hand portion of the arm (so that the fingers are 'evenly' spaced across)

F/O and weave in end

FEET:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3-8: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O. Feet are flattened and generally don't need any stuffing (if you wish to have slighter 'rounder' shaped feet, you can VERY lightly stuff the feet before you add them to the body portion of the doll.

WINGS:

Here's where it gets a little fussy. LOL. You will very likely need to 'judge' the size/length of this piece so that it will fit your Emolga properly. I'm giving you 'general' instructions here for this part, but you will need to periodically hold the piece up next to the doll (with arms/feet/head pinned securely in place) to make sure it will fit correctly. BE SURE to write down how many sc across you end up using, and how many rows you crochet down and how many decrease rows you make so that your yellow side can be made the same.

Begin with black yarn. Chain approx 40 (check up against your doll to ensure that this chain reaches easily from fingertip to fingertip. If you need, add more chains or remove some to get the fit right)

Sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn and work one more row evenly. At this point, check the length up against the doll again for fit (the first few rows can slightly alter the length of your piece so this is just a safety check to prevent you from doing much more work before you might need to start again to get the fit right)

Once you're happy with the length of this piece, continue working back and forth evenly until the piece when placed at the based of the head and across the arms, is nearly 1 and a half inches from the bottom of the body portion of the doll.

On next row, dec over next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc again and then sc evenly across to last 4 sc. Dec twice and turn.

(Don't forget to make notes about how many rows/decrease rows etc you need for the next part)

Repeat that row about twice more (you may need to add another to reach the bottom of the body).

F/O and weave in your ends.

Using the yellow yarn, make another 'wing' just like the first one. Sew the two pieces together as shown (I used a light yellow sewing thread and sewing needle to prevent too much bulking at the edges and make the seam less noticeable.)

EARS:

(make 2 in black:)

Row 1: chain 5, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (4)

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (6)

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (8)

Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (10)

Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (12)

Row 6-14: sc in each sc across; turn

Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc; turn (10)

Row 16: sc in each sc across (10)

Row 17: repeat row 15 (8)

Row 18: repeat row 16 (8)

(make 2 in yellow:)

Row 1: chain 4, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (3)

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (5)

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (7)

Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (9)

Row 5-14: sc in each sc across; turn

Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc; turn (7)

Row 16: sc in each sc across (7)

Row 17: repeat row 15 (5)

Row 18: repeat row 16 (5)

F/O and weave in ends.

Place a yellow ear part and a black ear part together (the black will be slightly larger than the yellow. Attach Black yarn to one bottom end (the flatter end) and begin to sc evenly around the ear (going through both the black and yellow pieces) you may need to work 2 sc in each sc when you reach the 'top' rounded edge to keep the shape as you like. A little bit of 'turn' to the inside is fine, and in fact I kinda liked that, it seemed more natural.

Continue scing evenly to bottom of ear (don't sc across the bottom, leave it 'open' because it makes sewing the ears onto the head much easier).

Get a piece of scrap paper and cut out shapes for the white part (ear inset). Place the paper against the insde of the ear and trim if necessary to make sure the shape/size is as you want it. Using that paper piece as a template, cut out two white pieces of felt and carefully sew to the inside of the ear (using white sewing thread and needle)

TAIL:

(make 2 using black)

Row 1: chain 21, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across; turn (20)

Row 2: sc in each chain across (20)

Row 3: sc in each of next 12 sc; turn, leaving remaining sc unworked)

Row 4: sc in each sc across, at end of row, chain 5,

Row 5: sc in 2^nd chain from hook, and in each remaining chain and in each of the 12 sc. ; turn (16)

Row 6: slip stitch across first 5 sc. Chain 1, sc in same sc as last slip stitch and each sc to end of row; turn

Row 7: sc in each sc to end of row, turn

Row 8: sc in each sc to end of row, chain 5

Row 9: sc in 2^nd chain from hook, and in each remaining chain and in each of the row.

F/O and weave in ends. Place the two pieces together (matching them up as well as possible) and using sewing thread and needle, sew the two pieces together. At the point where the tail will 'meet' the body, either sc a couple of rounds of yellow. You can also use a small piece of yellow felt for the end of the tail.

ASSEMBLY:

Pin all the pieces together and make sure you're happy with the placement/size/ etc of the various parts.

Sew the parts together securely. Sew the 'wings' across the back from fingertip to fingertip and just at the 'base' of the back of the head. Tack the 'wings' to the bottom center of the body as well.

Sew feet, ears and tail on as desired.

Cut templates for eyes from scrap paper, then when you're pleased with the size/shape of the eye, use the paper template to cut out your felt pieces for the eyes. Cut circles for the 'cheek patches' from yellow felt.

Cut 'points' from black for the brow patches on the face.

After pinning brow patches, eyes and cheek patches in place so that you're satisfied with them, carefully sew in place. Then embroider the nose/mouth.

Emolga and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (April 2012). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not reprint, sell or distribute the pattern; or sell items made from this pattern.  

Chikorita Plushie

Well after many requests (and finally getting the yarn I needed) Chikorita has arrived.  LOL
The top picture shows the  colors closer to what they actually are,  the other two pictures for some reason turned out a bit on the 'bluish' side,  but hopefully will still at least give you an idea of how the doll is put together.  I'm really a much better designer than a photographer.  :D
The eye colors aren't exactly right either,  but that's purely because I simply didn't have the right two shades of red.  All I had was red and a brown color  (Walmart doesn't really have an extensive selection of felt shades  LOL)
As always,  if you have any troubles or questions about the pattern,  just post or email me,  and I'll answer you as quickly as I can. :D

CHIKORITA

MATERIALS:

WW yarn (medium) in Light sage, dark sage and white

G hook

Fiberfill

Yarn Needle

Small scraps of felt in desired colors for eyes (orange, red and white)

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important for this, as long as your yarn, hook and tension result in a fairly tight stitch that won't let the stuffing poke through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches in that round or row.

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-16: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 17: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc around to last sc, 2 sc in last sc (38)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (38)

F/O. Stuff head moderately firmly while shaping.

BODY:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 7-25: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 26: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (35)

Rnd 27: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff moderately firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 28: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)

Rnd 29: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (14)

Rnd 30: dec over next 2 sc around (7)

F/O. Leave tail. Weave tail through last round, tug to close up. Secure and weave in end.

FEET: (make 4)

Starting with white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring - change to light green in last sc. (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 8: sc in first 7 sc of round, leave remaining sc as is (7)

F/O. Stuff moderately firmly.

TAIL:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)

Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (14)

F/O. Stuff moderately firmly. Weave in end.

BUDS:

(make 7)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (6)

F/O. Stuff the 'bud' with the tails of yarn, that's probably all the stuffing you'll need in them.

LEAF:

(make 2)

Row 1: ch 2, sc in second chain from hook (1)

Row 2: 2 sc in sc (2)

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in last sc (3)

Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (4)

Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (5)

Row 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (6)

Row 7: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (7)

Row 8: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (8)

Row 9: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (9)

Row 10-20: sc in each sc around (9)

Row 21: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (8)

Row 22: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (7)

Row 23: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (6)

Row 24: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (5)

Row 25: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (4)

Row 26: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (3)

Row 27-30: sc in each sc across (3)

Row 31: 2 sc in each sc across (6)

F/O. Place the two leaves together and whip stitch around edges. At stem and base (rows 26-31) fold together and whip stitch, leaving the final row 'open'.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all parts together before sewing to ensure you have everything made and that all the parts are positioned as you like.

Sew head to body positioned as shown. Leaf is sewn to top center of head as shown, you may wish to tack the leaf to one side of the head (optional). Buds are sewn around the neck at the point where the head joins the body. Position the first bud center of the front, and remaining buds evenly spaced around the neck.

Front legs are sewn slightly under the front of the body, while back legs are positioned slightly to each side (as shown). Legs should be positioned so that the last row of 7 sc is facing up and outward (giving the legs a light tilt).

Tail is sewn to the center of backside of body with 'longer' side facing down to give the tail a slight upsweep.

Face is pieces of felt cut into the correct shapes (as shown) and sewn on, while the mouth is simply embroidered as shown.

Chikorita and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (July 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Tails Plushie

 

I guess I couldn't make sonic without Tails to travel with him.   I have to say that even though the pattern seems complex when you're reading the instructions,  it's really not that difficult once you get going.

I've been extremely busy recently,  and it's likely I won't be working on any dolls for a couple of weeks.   Spring has sprung  (well at least here in Texas)  and I have my vegetable garden to plant,  and spring cleaning to attend to...and quite frankly I just need to get up off my carcass and do some stuff that I've neglected over the winter.  LOL

I'm also working on some other projects which I've been putting off ... some of which you'll see on here,  others are baby shower gifts and one wedding gift.

I'll post though when I have more stuff to share!

As always,  if you are confused with the pattern,  or find something wrong with it,  please let me know,  I'll help ya out or fix the problem asap :) 

Happy Hookin' y'all!

Miles *Tails* Prower

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in Gold, white and red
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Sewing needle and sewing thread to match yarn and felt
Bits of felt in white, blue and black

NOTES:

Gauge isn't critical to this project, as long as your choice of hook and yarn result in a tight, even stitch throughout the doll.

The tail has some different instructions for color changes.  It's helpful to read through the instructions for the tail and the pattern progression completely before beginning to familiarize yourself with the process. 

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.


BODY:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic circle  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6-12:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 14-16:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (25)
(Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already,  stuff moderately firm and continue stuffing as you progress)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (15)
Rnd 20:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
Rnd 21:  working in Front Loops Only,  sc in each sc around  (10)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed finish the body shape as desired.  Weave ends.

BELLY FRONT PANEL:
(using white)

NOTE:  Front panel is bit more involved than most, due to the shape.  The final round seems daunting when reading the instructions, but it's really much easier than it looks.  Take your time and you'll soon see how the pattern works.

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc 1,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  join to first sc with slip stitch, do not turn  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  3 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc,  join to first sc of round with sl st, do not turn.  (22)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in last 2 sc.  join to first sc of round with sl st, do not turn.  (30)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 7 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in last 3 sc.  join to first sc of round with sl st, do not turn.  (38)
Rnd 6:  sc in first sc,  ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next sc. Ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, skip one sc, sc in next sc.  Ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook,  sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch,  skip one sc, 2 sc in next sc (corner),  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc (corner).  Ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook,  sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch,  skip one sc, sc in next sc.  Ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, skip one sc, sc in next sc.  Ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next sc. Sc in each of next 4 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in last 4 sc.
You should now have the front panel with the three 'points' on each side at the top (as shown in pictures)
F/O and weave in loose ends.



HEAD:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic circle  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8-14:  sc in each sc around  (49)
Rnd 15:  Sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 16-17:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 19:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately firm while shaping and continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 20:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 22:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 23:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping,  weave the tail through the final round and tug gently to close the opening. Secure and weave in end.

MUZZLE:

Again this section might seem very daunting when just reading the instructions,  the final round is similar to the final round of the front panel done earlier,  just take it one step at a time and you'll soon see how it works.  This piece doesn't work well with continuous rounds, so you'll need to join each round with a slip stitch as indicated.

(using white)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic circle,  join last sc to first sc with slip stitch, ch 1  (8)
Rnd 2:  sc in same stitch as joining slip stitch,  2 dc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 dc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in last sc,  join with slip stitch to first sc,  ch 1.  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in same stitch as joining slip stitch, sc in next st,  2 dc in each of the next 2 sts,  sc in next 4 sts,  2 dc in each of the next 2 sts,  sc in last 2 sts.  Join with slip stitch to first sc,  ch 1  (16)
Rnd 4:  hdc in same stitch as joining slip stitch,  sc in next 2 sts,  3 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts,  3 dc in each of next 2 sts,  sc in next 2 sts, hdc in last st.  Join with slip stitch to first sc,  ch1.  (24)
Rnd 5:  hdc in same stitch as joining slip stitch, slip stitch in next 3 sts, sc next st,  *Ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next 2 chs,  sc in next st of round* repeat from * to *  3 more times  (total of four 'points'),   slip stitch next 7 sts,  sc next st,    *Ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next 2 chs,  sc in next st of round* repeat from * to *  3 more times  (total of four 'points'),  slip stitch next 3 sts, hdc last stitch. Join with slip stitch to first hdc of round.
F/O. Weave in ends.

Muzzle is stuffed lightly (to shape) and attached to the head at the lower front side as shown.  I recommend that you pin it first, before sewing it on.  A little stretching and fiddling around with its position is probably going to be needed.  When you have it pinned in a position you like,  sew it on securely  (use a needle and white sewing thread is highly preferable,  as it will result in a more 'natural' looking joining than if you use yarn to attach it)  Make any small adjustments as you sew.

NOSE:

(using black)

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around  (4)
F/O leaving a small tail.  Stuff the tail into the nose  (that's all the stuffing you'll need).  Sew onto muzzle as shown with black sewing thread.


HAND/ARMS  (make 2)

Beginning with white at hand:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  working in front loops only;  2 sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 6-7:  sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 8: slip stitch in each sc around
F/O.  Curl cuff down over hand.

ARM:

Attach gold yarn to free loop from rnd 5.

Rnd 1:  sc in same loop as joining.  sc in next 2 loops,  dec over next 2 loops,  sc in next 3 loops, dec over last 2 loops  (8)
Rnd 2-10:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Stuff arm lightly to shape (but don't overstuff).  Flatten open end and working through all layers,  sc across end  (4 sc)
F/O and weave in ends.


FEET/LEGS  (make 2)

For those that might be having troubles with the instructions for the feet,  I put up a sort of a picture tutorial here:  http://oth-help.blogspot.com/2013/03/sonic-foot-tutorial.html that may be of greater assistance.   The color of the example is different,  but the process is the same.  :D

Beginning at toe of foot with white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-7:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 8: sc in each sc around,  change to red in last sc of round  (18)
Rnd 9-10:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 11: sc in each sc around,  do not join.  Turn  (18)
Rnd 12-14:  sc in each sc around,  do not join rounds  (18)
Rnd 15:  (beginning heel section) sc in next 6 sc  (leave remaining sc unworked) turn  (6)
Rnd 16-18:  sc in each sc  turning at end of each row  (6)
F/O, leaving a tail.  Using yarn needle,  match the short rows of 6 to other 'side' of the heel,  down heel and across bottom of foot to close up the heel.  You should now have a 'foot' shaped piece.  Stuff the foot moderately.

Beginning cuff:

Attach white to a stitch at the center of the heel portion of the foot. 

Rnd 1:  sc in same stitch as joining.  sc 11 more sc evenly around the opening of the foot  (12)
Rnd 2: working in front loops only;   2 sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 6:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
F/O leave long tail.  Curl the cuff down towards the foot.  Add some stuffing lightly in the cuff to shape it as you like.  Using the long tail and a yarn needle,  weave through the last round worked and gently pull to tighten it.  When you're pleased with the shape,  secure the yarn and weave in loose ends.

Leg:

Attach gold yarn to a free loop from round 2 of cuff.

Rnd 1:  sc in same loop as joining,  sc in next 3 loops,  dec over next 2 loops,  sc next 4 loops, dec over last 2 loops  (10)
Rnd 2-9:  sc in each sc around  (10)
F/O.  Stuff leg moderately but not overstuffed.  Leave opening.


EARS  (make 2)

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 10:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Flatten ear (ears aren't stuffed) and sc evenly across the end through all layers  (you'll have 10 or 11 sc across depending on how you work it,  it doesn't matter as long as both ears have the same 10 or 11 sc across) 
Cut a piece of white felt to fit inside the ear as shown and sew it on with sewing thread to match the felt.


TAILS (make 2):

NOTE:  Rnds 23-30 of this part of the pattern will be worded very differently than other parts.  You will see something like this:  W-1, G-6 etc.   This means to work 1 sc in white then 6 sc in gold,  changing the colors as appropriate.  Carry the unused color behind your work to be picked up as you need it.  There will also be an 'alternate' tail pattern for those that would rather not do the frequent color changes.


Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around (6)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (14)
Rnd 11:  sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (16)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (18)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Begin stuffing tail if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately but don't overstuff.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 16:  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (20)
Rnd 17:  sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 9 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 9 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (22)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (24)
Rnd 20:  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (26)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (28)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around, change to white in last sc of round (28)
Rnd 23:  (refer to above notes for rounds 23 thru 30 for explanation of instructions)  W-1, G-6, W-1, G-6, W-1, G-6, W-1, G-6  (28)
Rnd 24:  W-2, G-4, W-3, G-4, W-3, G-4, W-3, G-4, W-1  (28)
Rnd 25:  W-3, G-2, W-5, G-2, W-5, G-2, W-5, G-2, W-2  (28)
Rnd 26:  repeat rnd 25  (28)
Rnd 27:  W-4, G-1, W-6, G-1, W-6, G-1, W-6, G-1, W-2  (28)
Rnd 28:  repeat rnd 27  (F/O gold at end of round)  (28)
Rnd 29-30:  Sc in each sc around  (28)
Rnd 31:  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc (26)
Rnd 32:  sc in each sc around  (26)
Rnd 33:  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc,  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc  (24)
Rnd 34:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 35:  * Ch 7,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook,  sc next ch,  hdc in next ch,  dc in next 2 chs,  treble crochet in last ch,  skip 3 sc,  sl st next sc * ,  repeat * to * for a total of 6 'points'. 
F/O.  Weave in end.   Flatten end of tail matching up the points for a total of 3 points.   Using white sewing thread and sewing needle,  sew the points together  to create the 'end' of the tail (see photos for help).  

ALTERNATE TAIL:

Work as shown to rnd 21.

Rnd 22-25:  Sc in each sc around,  change to white in last sc of round 25  (28)

Rnd 26-30:  sc in each sc around (28)

Rnd 31-35:  complete tail as per instructions above.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning parts and pieces together before sewing.   This allows you to position the pieces to your liking,  and to make small adjustments before making it permanent.     Using strong sewing thread to sew parts together also makes for a smoother, more natural looking  joint than if using the yarn, but yarn will work too if that's what you have.

Using the pictures to aid you in placement:  Sew head to body.   Sew front body panel to center of front of body,  centered with muzzle (as shown).

Arms are sewn to the side of the body,  legs to the bottom of the body and positioned as you find most pleasing.

Ears are sewn to the top of the head, just very slightly back from center.

The 'cowlicks' in the front of the head are  created by 'Ch 13,  sl st in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next 4 ch,  hd in next 4 ch,  dc in remaining chs.   F/O Weave in ends.   (make three of these)  Sew these in a 'line' to the center of the forehead as shown. 

Mouth is embroidered on as shown.

Eyes are cut from white felt,  large ovals with a slightly flat bottom to the eye,  curved just to match the curve of the muzzle.   Cut smaller ovals of Blue felt for iris of eye,  and slightly smaller ovals for the pupil of the eye.   Catch lights are tiny ovals positioned as shown in the eye.

Tails are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown in the pictures,  positioned as you like.


Miles "Tails" Prower, and Sonic the Hedgehog are Copyright Sega.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it in any way, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Eevee Plush

 

I finally decided to tackle Eevee.  The pictures I'm afraid don't do the doll justice at all.   She's really much cuter than the pictures show.  LOL 

Eevee can be a tough one mostly because she's all shades of brown.  The 'collar' is worked a little different,  but it's basic and simple, and allows you alot of room to 'arrange' it however you like.

If I have one great weakness, it's doing the faces.  I'm sure that all of you wonderful crafters will be able to give her a much better face,  I'm afraid that faces just aren't my strong suit.  LOL 

If you have any problems with the pattern,  please let me know, I'll fix it as soon as possible.  If you just get confused,  post your question and we'll get that fixed up too.  :)

EEVEE

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in brown, tan
G Hook
Fiberfill
Small scraps of felt in dk brown, black
Yarn needle
sewing needle and thread to match  yarn and felts (optional)

HEAD:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6-16:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
(begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately firm while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 19:  sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (16)
Rnd 20:  dec in next 2 sc around  (8)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish out the shaping, secure ends and weave in

BODY:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6-27:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 28:  sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
(begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately firm while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress)
Rnd 29:  sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 30:  sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (16)
Rnd 31:  dec in next 2 sc around  (8)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish out the shaping, secure ends and weave in

FRONT LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  5 sc in magic ring  (5)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc next 4 sc,  2 sc last sc  (12)
Rnd 8-11:  sc in each sc around  (12)
(begin shoulder)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 7 sc,  ch1 and turn (leave remaining sc unworked)  (7)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc across  (7)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
F/O and stuff front legs moderately firmly.  Shoulders are stuffed *very* lightly during the process of sewing the shoulder to the body.  (stuffing the shoulder is optional,  but a little stuffing in the shoulder does add a nice shaping to the body)

BACK LEGS:

Upper leg  (make 2):

Rnd 1:  Ch 12.  Join to make ring and sc in each ch around  (12)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (14)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (16)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (18)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
(begin hip -  similar to shoulder in front legs)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 10 sc ,  ch 1 and turn.  (Leave remaining sc unworked)  (10)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc across  (10)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (9)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (7)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)

Feet (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in  next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around  (5)
Stuff moderately firm and fasten off.  Weave tail through last round and pull gently to close.  Secure and weave in ends.

Sew the foot to the small end of the upper leg at a slight angle (see the pictures for reference).   DOUBLE CHECK the leg against the body before sewing on the foot,  as there will be a right and left leg.  Make sure the foot will be facing the correct direction when leg is sewn to the body.  After the foot is securely sewn to the leg,  the upper leg can be stuffed moderately firmly.  The 'hip' is *very* lightly stuffed during the process of sewing the leg to the body (same as with the shoulder of the front legs)

EARS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in 2 next sc,  2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in 3 next sc,  2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in 4 next sc,  2 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in 5 next sc,  2 sc in next sc (14)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in 6 next sc,  2 sc in next sc (16)
Rnd 9-13: sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (14)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (12)
Rnd 17:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (10)
Rnd 19:  Flatten ear,  sc through all layers across the bottom of the ear  (5 sc)
F/O.  Ear is not stuffed.

TAIL:
Begin with tan:

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around  (4)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc (6)
Rnd 4:  * sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (9)
Rnd 5:  * sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (12)
Rnd 6:  * sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (15)
Rnd 7:  * sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (18)
Rnd 8:  * sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (21)
Rnd 9:  * sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  Change to brown yarn in last sc of round  (24)
Rnd 10-13:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 14:  * sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (27)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (27)
(begin stuffing here if you haven't already,  stuff moderately firm while shaping.  Continue stuffing as you progress)
Rnd 16:  * sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (30)
Rnd 17-19:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 22:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 23:  sc in each sc around  (12)

COLLAR:

Using tan:

Rnd 1:  ch 35.  Join to make ring.  Sc in each ch around  (35)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (56)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (63)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (70)
Rnd 7-8:  sc in each sc around  (70)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (60)
Rnd 10:  slip stitch in each sc around.
F/O.  Weave in end.  The two sides are not sewn together.  

Front panel:


Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc (6)
Rnd 3:  * sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (9)
Rnd 4:  * sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (12)
Rnd 5:  * sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (15)
Rnd 6:  * sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (18)
Rnd 7:  * sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc*  (repeat from * to * twice more)  (21)
Rnd 8-10:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 11:  Flatten and working through all layers,  sc across the end  (11 sc)
F/O.  Sew the front panel to the center of the 'collar' as shown in the pictures.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Sew the collar (round 1) to the bottom center of the head.  Use the rounds of the head to help keep the collar centered and even.  Be sure that the 'front' panel is where you want the front of the head to be. 

Sew the head/collar to the body.  Head is sewn at a slight angle over the 'rounded' end,  with most of the head placed to the top of the body.  (see pictures to get a better idea).  Sew front legs to body with the 'shoulder' on the outside of the body.  Lightly stuff the shoulder as you sew around it to give it more shape.  

Sew the back legs to the body as shown,  again,  stuffing the hips very lightly as you sew around them to give them more shape.  Stuffing the hips and shoulders is optional,  if you prefer not to that's fine as well.

Sew tail to body as shown.  Sew ears to head as shown.

Nose is a few whipstitches at center of face.  Eyes are cut from scraps of felt.  Large ovals of brown,  smaller ovals of black and two very small circles of white.  Sew or glue to face as shown.

Mouth is embroidered as shown.

Eevee and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (February 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Kangaroo

I have another new pattern on Etsy  (and at Ravelry downloads as well).  This is a nice little kangaroo.  Well,  she's not very 'little' really,  she's 18 inches tall.

If you'd like to get the pattern,  the Etsy link is HERE.   For those of you that are members of Ravelry and prefer the download options there,  the link to the pattern is HERE.

Natu Plushie

Natu is a cute pokemon,  he has these big eyes like a night-hawk that were very hard to get right lol.  I tried to make the wings all crochet,  but it just wouldn't work at this size,  I would have to make him much bigger to get that to work,  so his wing details are felt strips instead.

As always,  if you have any troubles with him,  or find anything wrong in the pattern,  let me know :)

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in green, yellow, light red
G Hook
Scraps of felt in white and black
Fiberfill

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important,  just ensure that your hook and yarn sizes result in a fairly tight stitch that won't allow the fiberfil to show thru.

Numbers at the end of rounds/rows indicate the total number of stitches that should be in the round/row.

BODY:  Using green:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8-14:  sc in each sc around  (49)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (28)

Being stuffing at this point and continue as you go along.

Rnd 18:  sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 19:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 20:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)

F/O leaving a tail and then using chopstick or back of crochet hook,  finish adding any stuffing you need and shape to a ball.  Weave in the tail and pull to close.

WINGS:

Begin with yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (9)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 3-5:  sc in each sc around  (in last sc of rnd 5,  change to light red yarn and then join round) (18)
Rnd 6-11:  sc in each sc around
Rnd 12:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (9)

Cut six strips of black felt  approx 1/4 inch wide and 5 inches long.   Using photos as a guide,  glue/sew the strips of felt to the wings as shown.

CREST:

Using light red:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2-10:  sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc
F/O.


BEAK:

Using yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (18)
F/O.

FEET:

Make 4 using light red:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  * Ch 5,  sc 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs,  sc in next sc*  repeat * to * once more, 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc, Ch 5,  hdc 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in last sc
F/O and weave in ends

Place two of the 'feet' together with the wrong sides to the inside,  sew together with a whipstitch round the sides,  using a piece of the light red yarn and a yarn needle.

LEG: 

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  working in Back Loops Only,  sc in each sc round  (6)
Rnd 3:  working now through both loops,  sc in each sc around  (6)
F/O.

Sew the leg to the foot as shown in photo,  with the open side of the leg facing up.  Stuff leg firmly.

TAIL:

Row 1:  ch 3,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch  (2)
Row 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in last sc  (3)
Row 3:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (4)
Row 4:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (5)
Row 5:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 6:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Row 7-9:  sc in each sc across.
F/O and weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY:

Using photos as reference assistance for placing parts...  crest is sewn to head just slightly back from center.  Legs are sewn to body at bottom.  Wings are sewn to sides as shown.  Tail is sewn to lower center of back.  Sew 2 of the tail pieces next  to each other,  then one piece centered over the two.  Beak is sewn to face as shown.

Eyes are made as shown,  by cutting an almond shape from white felt and circles from black.  (Use paper first and pin the paper to the doll's face to make sure you get the size of eye shape you want).   Once eyes are sewn or glued to face as desired,  cut two very small circles of white felt and glue/sew to eyes as shown for catch lights.

Finally,  cut four elongated triangles from white felt and sew to the 'toes' for talons.


Natu and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.