We owe this concentration of quality sites to a family by the name of Warenne, so called because they originally hailed from a town called Varenne in Normandy. Like so many men of those parts, the Warennes backed the winning horse in 1066. ‘My ancestors came with William the Bastard and conquered their lands with the sword’, said one of the their number some two centuries later, brandishing an ancient, rusty blade to prove his point. It was a exclamation born of frustration with the interference of royal government, but such conflict with the Crown was exceptionally rare. The story of the Warennes is, in fact, proof positive that the way to get ahead in medieval England was to swing a strong right arm in the service of the king.
The founder of the family’s fortune, and therefore putative owner of the rusty sword, was William de Warenne. One of the Conqueror’s closest companions, he was at the front of the queue when the spoils were being dished out. Extensive lands in Sussex were given to him when he was barely off the boat, and he set about organizing them around the town and castle of Lewes. Other prizes soon followed. By the time Domesday Book was compiled in 1086 William was the fourth richest individual after the king himself, and owned estates in more than a dozen English counties. The overwhelming bulk of them were concentrated in East Anglia, and centred on what would become known as Castle Acre.
Castles were, of course, one of the most striking innovations that the Normans introduced to the English countryside, and the earliest examples tended to be built to a common-or-garden design. A great mound of earth raised the lord’s residence high above its surroundings, and a larger, lower enclosure accommodated his household and their horses. Such castles, as every schoolgirl knows, we now call ‘motte-and-baileys’.
At first glance, the structure created by William de Warenne at Castle Acre would seem to be a prime example of this type. Initial appearances, however, can be deceptive. Archaeological investigation has revealed that, whilst the bailey probably dates to William’s time, there was originally no motte at all. William had instead settled for a much shallower, lightly defended enclosure, in the middle of which he built a rather luxurious stone house (the foundations of which can still be seen). It was only his later descendants, living through the uncertainty of a civil war, who decided that a large mound of earth would be a good idea after all. Castle Acre, therefore, presents a uniquely peculiar case, a motte-and-bailey without a motte. Curiously, and by contrast, William’s other castle at Lewes has not one motte but two. One cannot help wondering if part of his intention was to frustrate castle historians of the future.
Unconventional he may have been when it came to building castles, but in all other respects William was a textbook Norman Conqueror, a warrior who carved out an empire for himself and ran it with ruthless efficiency. Such men wanted not only glory but profit – hence, in part, the need for a town at Castle Acre. They also needed to atone for a lifetime of maiming and killing. In the 1080s William set off on pilgrimage to Rome, but in the event got no further than Burgundy and the great abbey of Cluny. Suitably inspired, he returned to England and founded two priories of his own, one at Lewes, the other at Acre. As the earlier of the two, Lewes had the greater claim on the Warenne’s loyalties. When William died in 1088 – killed, appropriately, by an arrow-wound sustained during a siege – he was buried there, as were all his later descendants. But Lewes Priory suffered severely in later centuries, not least from having a railway driven through its precinct. Castle Acre Priory, by contrast, is a wonderfully well-preserved ruin, located in as serene a setting as could be imagined. Visit on a fine day, and you’ll almost wish they were still looking for new monks.
Shortly before his death, William de Warenne was created earl of Surrey – a rare distinction, and a final confirmation of his highly successful career. It was a success replicated by his descendants who, over the next three centuries, emulated his model of dynamic lordship and service to the Crown to maintain their place at the top of society. But in the fourteenth century, the story came to an abrupt end. John de Warenne, seventh earl of Surrey, was by no means incompetent either as a soldier or as a politician, but his personal life was a disaster. His marriage, forced on him by Edward I, was doomed from the start: he was not quite twenty, his new wife not quite ten. But, since she was the king’s granddaughter, the match proved hard to dissolve, and successive popes refused to grant a divorce. The earl’s case was not helped by his notorious way with the ladies: he had at least two mistresses, and later confessed to having had an affair with his wife’s aunt, a decidedly loose-living nun. Earl John ended his days living with a certain Isabella Holland, referred to in his will as ‘my companion’. Through these various liaisons he had at least six children, but none by his wife. Thus, when he died in 1347, his vast estate passed by law to his legitimate but distant relatives. Castle Acre, where generations of his family had kept company with kings, fell quickly into ruin. And so passed the Warennes, one of the greatest dynasties in medieval England, their fortune won with the sword, but lost through lust and love.
This article is published in Kings and Castles
