Chris Morris BBC Europe correspondent in Riga, Latvia

Thirty-six hours in Latvia, on the way to Copenhagen, and our satellite phone isn't working. It makes live radio a little tricky. We take it apart with a screwdriver, and then hit it a few times. No joy.

"It's not an old Soviet model, is it?", asks one of our Latvian guests with a grim smile.

Outside, it's apparently minus 11C. We trudge off into the snow.

Mental note to self: "Wearing thermal underwear doesn't make you middle-aged, it just keeps you warm."

So does the mulled wine at the Christmas market in the centre of Riga's Old Town.

We talk to a few of the customers, all of whom seem to speak flawless English.

Divided opinion

Opinion about the EU is divided. Opportunity versus interference. Where have I heard that before?

A little over a decade ago, Latvia was part of the Soviet Union. It's been through a remarkable transformation, and now it's on the verge of joining another Union. This time the European Union.

That makes some people nervous, but Latvia's Foreign Minister Sandra Kalniete says they shouldn't be worried.

"It's not the same", she says. "We were occupied, incorporated and I would say it was a kind of rape. And now we are approaching a marriage of love. That will be the difference."

We were occupied, incorporated and I would say it was a kind of rape. And now we are approaching a marriage of love. That will be the difference Sandra Kalniete, Foreign minister of Latvia on joining the EU

But if times have changed, it's not always for the better. Now they play Oh I Wish It Could Be Christmas Every Day by Wizzard on loudspeakers at the market.

Not quite the authentic Baltic sound I was looking for. I bet the Communists would have banned it.

We muddle through our broadcasts by sending audio through the internet. It's not live, but it's just about kicking.

Most of the politicians we talk to are cheerfully upbeat, but there is a real vein of euro-scepticism running through this country. The older generation in particular wonder what's in it for them.

The government has a lot of explaining and a lot of convincing to do before next year's referendum on EU membership.

But most people think they'll muddle through. Latvia's been through too much to say no to the West now.

It's not an easy choice, though, for a country which only regained its independence 11 years ago. Sometimes history moves more quickly than expected.