Pilgrimage to Rome - Day 6 (Final Day)

Friday was our last full day in Rome and it was a free day in the schedule for all of the pilgrims. Fr. Michael, Fr. Jim and I returned from Assisi early in the morning to find that the Roman Metro was on strike . . . and it wasn't even good weather! We made our way on foot and, in one instance, by taxi and were luckily unaffected by the work-action.

We had a lovely lunch together at Ristochicco on the Borgo Pio - but unfortunately the cold Fr. Jim had been battling began to get the better of him, and he needed to head back to the hotel for rest.

As you can see in the picture above, Fr. Michael and I continued some shopping we had begun that morning. I kept things reasonable, but after window and price shopping with Karlo earlier in the week, I was prepared to purchase the alb and oil stock I had been wanting.

Fr. Michael and I also made our way back to his residence at Casa Santa Maria for Mass together in one of their chapels. Along the way we passed the Trevi Fountain, and I threw the requisite coin over my shoulder and into the pool to guarantee my return to the Eternal City.

Fr. Michael Wurtz, csc in the courtyard of the Casa

Our group gathered one last time in St. Peter's Square to pray Vespers together and then to head for dinner near Piazza Novona. I made my way back to Casa Santa Maria, where I met up with Fr. Michael, Karlo, and Fr. Bob Barron for cocktails and dinner. Fr. Bob is spending a few months in Rome working on another book. Though we were sorry that Fr. Jim was unable to join us, we shared a lovely evening.

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, and the next morning we boarded our shuttle to Rome's Fiumicino Airport and our flight back to Chicago. From start to finish, despite rain and missed trains, the trip was a real blessing. It was a wonderful gift of grace to pray and play with such a wonderful group of gentlemen - and to visit with dear friends.

Pilgrimage to Rome - Day 5

On Thursday morning we gathered at Rome’s Termini train station for the trip to Assisi, birthplace of Sts. Francis and Clare. We had purchased our tickets earlier in the week, and arrived at the station well in advance. Many of us took the extra time to get a small bite for breakfast, and we reconvened to wait for our train’s platform to be posted on the board.

(As an aside, may I mention how unbelievably charming and wonderful traditional train station notice boards are. I think that seeing and especially hearing the click-clack of such an instrument is one of the true delights of travel!)

Unfortunately, by the time the platform was posted and we all made our way toward it, the train was about to pull away from the station. Inexplicably, we encountered the first train in the history of Italy to leave four minutes early! (Seriously, there was a digital clock on the platform and it was early). Half of our group was able to run and jump on board, and the rest of us literally had the doors slammed in our faces.

Both groups proved to be perfectly resourceful, and within a few hours we were reunited in Assisi no worse for the wear, and with one heck of a story to tell. Thankfully, Fr. Michael Wurtz was with those of us in the group ‘left behind’ and he was able to organize our re-ticketing on the next train to Assisi.

We did have a to wait a bit for this second train, and so a group of us took advantage of the ‘found time’ and hustled to visit the Basilica of St. Lawrence Outside the Walls. To my great astonishment, this is the burial place of St. Stephen, the proto-deacon and proto-martyr, and of course, my patron saint. I prayed at the site of his martyrdom in Jerusalem, but was thrilled to be able to visit his relics during this trip to Rome.

The tomb of Sts. Stephen and Lawrence, Deacons and Martyrs

It is also the burial site of Blessed Pope Pius IX who approved the Constitutions of the Congregation of Holy Cross. I was happy to say a prayer of thanksgiving for the role this holy pontiff played in our community’s history.


The little group that made this excursion owe our discoveries to Stephen “Chase” Pepper, a Holy Cross candidate seminarian who served as our guide. Chase studied in Rome as an undergraduate at Seton Hall University and had visited this basilica before. I’ll confess that we doubted his ability to get us to the shrine and back to Termini in the allotted hour and twenty minutes – but we made it with five minutes to spare and it was well worth it!

Our train travel gave us the opportunity to see at least a small portion of Italy outside of Rome: the gritty quasi-industrial towns and rolling fields of the agro-economy that we passed through, and the medieval masterpiece that is Assisi.

Medieval Assisi

Basilica of Saint Francis

I’d always heard wonderful things about Assisi but had never visited the town before. I quickly came to understand what people like so much about it. Though the weather during our visit was poor – in fact we had about an hour of hail and snow! – the medieval hilltop town is so superbly maintained, that it is easy to appreciate that one is indeed taking-in Francis and Clare’s hometown much as they knew it.


We started our tour at the Basilica of Saint Francis where I had the privilege of presiding at Mass. It was my honor to remember in a special way all of my friends and family, and perhaps especially those who are so devoted to Francis, especially Sisters Maureen Fox and Loretta Schaff whom I had the pleasure of working with in Portland.

Chapel in the Crypt of the Basilica in which we celebrated Mass

After lunch, Fr, Jim Gallagher and I took the local bus down to the larger and more ‘modern’ section of Assisi to visit the Portiuncula, where Francis rebuilt a dilapidated chapel, given to his care by Benedictine monks, during the early days of his conversion and founding of an order. It was a simply marvelous place to sit and pray.



Back in the medieval town, Jim and I visited the Basilica of Santa Chiara, burial place of St. Clare, and the (cathedral) Duomo San Rufino where both Francis and Clare were baptized.

Basilica of Saint Clare

The Duomo Baptistry in which Francis and Clare were baptized

The rest of our gang returned to Rome that evening, but Fr. Michael, Fr. Jim and I stayed overnight in Assisi so that we could further explore the town, and enjoy a leisurely dinner in one of their favorite restaurants. Unfortunately, it rained all night and the restaurant was closed. But we still enjoyed ourselves very much, and returned to Rome the next morning in time to take full advantage of a free day in the schedule.

Assisi at Dusk

The Duomo from the Piazza at Santa Chiara

Fr. Michael Wurtz, csc, Fr. Jim Gallagher, csc and Me at the Basilica of St. Francis

Pilgrimage to Rome - Day 4

On Wednesday morning we again arrived at St. Peter’s Basilica early, this time to queue up for admission to the Papal Audience. Because of the weather, the audience was not held in St. Peter’s Square, as is sometimes the case, but inside the Paul VI Audience Hall. This was fine with me as I had never been inside that building before.

The windows and ceiling of the Paul VI Audience Hall

The Holy Father seated on the Audience Hall stage before a statue of the Risen Christ

It was a long time to wait, but it was well worth it to be with the Successor of Peter. Pope Benedict gave an address on Saint Bonaventure’s theory of Christian history and was then greeted by the different language groups. (I was especially glad to pick up some sense of the extemporaneous remarks he made in Italian, regarding the effect of this theory on interpretation of the Second Vatican Council.) He imparted his apostolic blessing upon all the pilgrims gathered with him, and through us to our families and loved ones. As throughout the trip, you were all remembered in prayer at that time.

The pilgrims await the Holy Father

After the Papal Audience, we were able to enjoy a Scavi tour of the excavations under the crypt of St. Peter’s Basilica, which go back to the time of Peter’s execution and burial on the site. This was my first time on a tour of these excavations and I was impressed – but I must say that I enjoyed all the more, the opportunity to pray at the tombs of so many of the Popes who are buried near the tomb of Peter.

We were able to pray in the Clementine Chapel, directly in front of St Peter's tomb, and the chapel in which the Holy Father places the pallium the night before they are presented to newly installed archbishops, and at the tombs of Pope Pius XII, Pope Paul VI, Pope John Paul I and Pope John Paul II.

The rest of our day was free, and Karlo and I passed a lovely afternoon together shopping along the Borgo Pio. This area, very near the Vatican, is filled with all sorts of religious goods stores – of both the tsatske and quality varieties. I did more window-shopping than buying, but it was a lot of fun nonetheless.

Our group reconvened for Mass that evening at the parish church attended by the Notre Dame students who study in our Rome architecture program.

We then had dinner all together near the Pantheon. We were joined by John and Monica Sikorski, their son John Joseph, and Deacon Ian McDole of the Diocese of Covington, all of whom are Notre Dame grads.

Joseph Querciagrossa, his brother-in-law John and nephew John Jospeh

After dinner Fr. Michael led us to a nearby gelateria for dessert. It was rather cool and wet in Rome throughout our visit, so I wasn’t much in the mood for ice cream most of the time – but you can’t beat gelato.

Pilgrimage to Rome - Day 3

Our Tuesday morning began with an early morning Mass in the crypt of St. Peter’s Basilica. One of the highlights of the entire trip was to have arrived at the Basilica so early and to enjoy the massive space in almost total solitude and silence. There were just a few priests saying their morning Masses at the various side altars in the massive church.

We priests met our Superior General Fr. Hugh Cleary, csc and our community’s steward, Fr. Carl Ebey, csc who led us to the Basilica’s sacristy to vest for Mass. It was quite an experience to vest in the Vatican Sacristy!

Hallway leading to the Vatican Sacristy

We were also joined by our community’s First Assistant General, and incoming president of Holy Cross College, Brother John Paige, csc. Our entire group shared Mass in the Chapel of the European Patrons in the crypt of the Basilica very near the bones of Peter, and directly next to the tomb of Pope John Paul II.

Chapel of the European Patrons - Crypt of St. Peter's Basilica

Fr. Hugh Cleary, CSC and Fr. Jim Gallagher, CSC at breakfast

After being treated to breakfast by the General Administration, we spent a good portion of the day in the Vatican Museum, which was a good thing as the weather had turned and Tuesday was an all-day soaker. Of course the highlight of the Vatican Museum is standing in the Sistine Chapel, gazing up at Michelangelo's magnificent ceiling, depicting the Creation, and reredos depicting the Final Judgement.

Ancient statue of shepherd used by early Christians as an image for Christ

Later in the afternoon we took the Metro to the outskirts of the city to visit the tomb of the other Apostle of Rome: St. Paul. I had never made it to St. Paul Outside the Walls during my previous trip to Rome, but it proved to be a real highlight of this pilgrimage.

Though rebuilt after a fire, the Basilica maintains the original layout and in so doing gives the visitor a good idea of what the original St. Peter’s looked like as well. It is a classic basilical plan, with a lovely cloister in front. And as in St. Peter’s, because there are no chairs or pews in the nave, the space feels immense.

Last year marked a special Pauline Jubilee Year, marking the 2000th anniversary of St. Paul's birth. Obviously this was celebrated in a particular way at the the shrine of St. Paul's relics - and we had the chance to see the beautiful Jubilee Doors that were installed for the Pauline Year. They included bronze reliefs of different scenes from the life of St. Paul.

Inscription on the Pauline Door

Apse mosaic at St. Paul Outside the Walls

A frieze atop the nave wall of the Basilica is adorned with the portraits of all the Roman Pontiffs, and the Eucharistic chapel is dedicated to St. Stephen, whose martyrdom Paul witnessed when he was still persecuting the Church. I had to wait quite awhile for a German tour group to finish having Mass in the St. Stephen Chapel, but it was well worth it.

Mosaic bust of Pope Benedict XVI in the nave frieze

Statue of St. Stephen

Back in the area of the Vatican, some of the guys took time to do souvenir shopping so that they would have objects to be blessed at the Papal Audience. I purchased rosaries for the men of Old College. Fr. Jim and I also went to the Office of the Papal Household to secure our tickets for the Papal Audience. This involved entering an otherwise restricted area of the Vatican, and I’ll confess we got a kick out of being saluted by the Swiss Guard.

Swiss Guard at the Entrance to the Office of the Papal Household

After our little errand, Fr. Jim and I took the Metro to the Spanish Steps – but since the weather was foul we didn’t linger outside. Instead we found a lovely little spot for dinner. In fact, we had what was probably the best meal of the week in a restaurant called Il Gabriello on the Via Vitorria.

I know many of you read this blog only for the restaurant reviews, so I'll mention that I enjoyed a lovely roasted calamari and potato salad, cheese ravioli in a tomato cream sauce, and veal cutlet in a light lemon and wine sauce. It was all delicious, and after a long, wet day of sightseeing it was exactly what the doctor ordered.

Pilgrimage to Rome - Day 2

We needed the rest because Monday was perhaps the busiest day of our week in Rome. We began the day by taking the Metro to the Termini station and purchasing our tickets for our trip to Assisi later in the week.

Then we walked the few blocks to the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. This church, dedicated to the Blessed Mother, was built after Pope Liberius had a dream indicating that a church should be built where a miraculous snowfall fell in August.

We then walked just a few blocks more, to the Basilica of Santa Croce in Jerusalem, where the relics of Christ’s Passion are adored. St. Helena brought these relics (and dirt from the Holy Land, which gives the Basilica its name) to Rome from Jerusalem. We were lucky enough to have Mass in one of the shrine’s chapels.

Stained glass window in Santa Croce with the motto of the Congregation of Holy Cross

Walking a few more blocks we arrived at the Sancta Scala, or Holy Steps – the marble steps of the Roman Praetorium, where Jesus would have been brought before Pontius Pilate. These steps were also transported from Jerusalem to Rome by St. Helena. Since these steps were scaled by our Lord during His Passion, the steps themselves are encased in wood to preserve them, and the faithful scale them only on their knees. I can now say I have done this once in my life, but am likely to skip it on any future trips to Rome. I limped around on my bruised left knee for the next few days!!

Directly across the street is the Basilica of St. John Lateran, the cathedral church of the Bishop of Rome, and until after the Avignon Papacies the residence of the Roman Pontiff. As the cathedral church of the Holy Father, St. John Lateran is “of all the churches in the city and the world, head and mother.”

"Of all the churches in the city and the world, mother and head."

The Holy Father's cathedra as Bishop of Rome

The Basilica's main doors are said to be from the Roman Senate

Above the high altar’s baldachin are the relics of St. Peter and St. Paul’s heads, and along the nave walls are huge statues of the twelve Apostles.

After time for lunch, and some relaxing in the gorgeous Roman sunshine, we proceeded to the Coliseum and the Roman Forum.

As Fr. Jim and I explored the area, we came across the Mamertine Prison where Peter and Paul were incarcerated before their martyrdom.

Our final church of the day was the Basilica of San Clemente. This ancient church was first a private home where Christians worshipped clandestinely as early as the first century. By the fourth century there was a public basilica on the site, which preceded the current church.

We finished our day by walking to the Trestevere neighborhood for dinner. That evening I enjoyed dinner with the seven men of Siegfried Hall who joined us for the pilgrimage. Fr. John Conley, csc our Rector-extraordinaire was generous enough to fund the get-together, and I immensely enjoyed the time to chat with such a wonderful group of guys.

The whole gang of Roman Ramblers in St. Peter's Square

(Greg, Andrew, John, Me, Stephen, Peter, Jake and David)