Friday, February 02, 2007
Hate turned love – Gâteau au chocolat et à la mandarine
[Mandarin chocolate cake]When I was younger – and by younger I mean
a lot more younger -, my father who worked at home used to take me to Cannes where we would go to Rohr, a posh
salon de thé for tea.
He always had
orangettes: candied orange peels dipped in bitter chocolate.
That was the kind of
love me, feed me and hug me moments; except that I secretly loathed orangettes.
C’est amer et dégoutant! [it’s bitter and horrid], I would think hard (
penser fort).
From then, I happily declined every chocolate/citrus treat I have been offered.
This combination
is just not appealing to me. Well, I should say
was, because I’m now happily and officially converted.
Gâteau au chocolat et à la mandarineadapted from Bill Granger’s
open kitchenThis cake combines the deep flavour of dark chocolate and the subtle sweetness of mandarin.
I think it works particularly well because mandarin is both fragrant and sweet; definitely not too sharp and it gives a satisfying intensity to the flourless chocolate base.
Serve the cake with mandarin slices to enhance the citrus taste and provide lovely juices.Mandarin chocolate cake
serves 8-10
250g quality dark chocolate
250g unsalted butter, diced
6 eggs, separated
1tbsp mandarin zest
115g caster sugar
3 tbsp plain flour
25g almond meal
a pinch of salt
Preheat the oven to 190°C and line a 23cm spring form pan with baking paper.
Place the chocolate and butter in a bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir until just melted. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Place the egg yolk, mandarin zest and sugar in a bowl and mix until combined.
Gradually add the melted chocolate-butter, stirring.
Mix in the flour, almond meal and salt.
In a clean, dry bowl, whip the egg whites until stiff and fold gently into the chocolate mixture until barely combined.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 35 minutes. The cake might look wet in the centre, but don’t worry, it’ll firm up while cooling.
Allow to cool completely in the tin and transfer to a serving platter.
Serve with mandarin slices.
Labels: cakes of all kind, chocolate, recipe inside
Sunday, January 14, 2007
Rage syndrome inducing – Pierre Hermé’s sablés au chocolat et à la fleur de sel
Sometimes, no matter how hard you try, you utterly fail.
I did try, in fact, to
resist to Pierre Hermé’s sablés au chocolat et à la fleur de sel.
But then, from the photo above you can tell I’ve given in – and what a defeat; because although I easily concede that, ‘yes, I’ve been weak and lacking of will-power’, now my current and unique obsession is to remake these as soon as possible (still I will make an effort and wait for at least a day or two).
Nevertheless, it is not my fault. It seems that every single person on this planet
s’est donnée le mot [has been conspiring].
I was already, at the beginning, vulnerable and
very receptive to the charms of these cookies: intensely chocolaty and beautifully salty. And the
worldwide conspiracy didn’t help – at all.
By September I had developed weird symptoms of what might have looked like the ‘rage syndrome’:
sudden attacks for no apparent reason; the dog fanny will often be sleeping and then attacks without warning. Its her eyes become dilated and sometimes change colour during and after an attack.
Beware because the dog fanny is totally confused when attacking and will not respond to any attempts to stop it her. The attacks are very unpredictable and the dog fanny will appear disorientated afterward and unaware of its actions, then return to its her normal self shortly after.
Victims are usually members of the family who have one or more chocolate and fleur de sel sablés in their hands.However, and from what I remember, the
climax of the strange behaviour I had was reached on the 5th January; when
Deb posted, not one but, three pictures of the coveted little - rounds - of - pure - chocolate.
It was too much! Definitely too much!
I started panicking, fell petrified onto the floor and begun to sway, moving quickly from one position to another.
That’s all I can recall from that day; because, when I woke up the next day everything seemed back to normal. Back to normal except that now sitting on my bed table laid a plate of Pierre Hermé’s cookies instead of the usual pile of cookbooks.
* All you’ve read above is pure fiction :) Well, who am I kidding? Let’s say it is only very close to what really happened!Sablés au chocolat et à la fleur de seladapted from Dorie Greenspan’s
Baking from my home to yoursIn French, sablés litteraly means ‘sandy’. And these are indeed deliciously sandy.
I love the contrast between the melting chocolate chunks and the texture of the sable itself.
The addition of salt is a brilliant idea: it doesn’t only enhance the profound chocolate taste but it also makes these cookies particularly desirable.
Dorie says you can keep them for three days – stored in an airtight container; though, I highly doubt you’ll be enough strong-minded to resist!
Note - The dough can be kept in the fridge for three days or frozen for two months (in which case you needn’t defrost it before baking; just slice the logs into cookies and bake the cookies 1 minute longer).Sablés au chocolat et à la fleur de sel
makes about 35 cookies
175g all-purpose flour
30g unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
150g unsalted butter, at room temperature
120g cup (packed) light brown sugar
50g cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
150g dark chocolate (fanny: I used 70% cocoa), chopped into chips
Sift the flour, cocoa and baking soda together.
Cream the butter on medium speed until soft. Add both sugars, the salt and vanilla extract and continue beating for another minute or two.
Pour in the flour and mix just until combined - work the dough as little as possible once the flour is added, and don’t be concerned if the dough looks a little crumbly.
Toss in the chocolate pieces and mix only to incorporate.
Turn the dough out onto a work surface, gather it together and divide it in half. Working with one half at a time, shape the dough into logs that are 4cm in diameter. Wrap the logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate them for at least 3 hours (fanny : for me, overnight).
Preheat the oven to 170°C. Line two baking sheets with parchment or silicone mats.
Working with a sharp knife, slice the logs into rounds that are 1cm thick. (The rounds are likely to crack as you’re cutting them — don’t be concerned, just squeeze the bits back onto each cookie.) Arrange the rounds on the baking sheets, leaving about 2cm between them.
Bake the cookies one sheet at a time for 12 minutes — they won’t look done, nor will they be firm, but that’s just the way they should be. Transfer the baking sheet to a cooling rack and let the cookies rest until they are only just warm, at which point you can serve them or let them reach room temperature. But to be completely honest, I can't say what they taste like at room temperature as I couldn't help but eat them straight from the oven.
Labels: chocolate, cookies, favourites, pierre hermé, recipe inside
Monday, November 27, 2006
Le hasard fait bien les choses – Truffes à la cannelle, au caramel au beurre salé, au gingembre et à la vanille
[Cinnamon, salted caramel, ginger and vanilla truffles]I am currently working on
the impact of colour - and more generally vision –
on perceived flavour.
Many studies have shown that the colour of food has an influence on flavour.
what happens when one gets no visual hints? When the food eaten has the same exact form but different flavours?Sugar High Friday was the perfect occasion for me to experiment.
I would make
four different truffles but instead of shaping the ganaches into different forms and them dipping them into different tempered chocolate (for example, white chocolate speckled with vanilla seeds for the vanilla truffles), I would roll them in cocoa powder to
get the same look and avoid a fashion kitchen faux-pas (it seems the current rule is to wear skinny jeans – preferably grey – with flats and a long sweater).
The results were astonishing – though predictable.
With visual clue (i.e. ganaches dipped in different chocolate)
The people detected the flavour almost immediately and the resulting perceived flavour was stronger.
Without visual clue (i.e. plain truffles rolled in cocoa powder)
It took a longer time for the people to guess the flavours which are now considered more subtle.
Apart from the experiment I am glad to say that these truffles - from Pierre Hermé's
PH 10 - are a pure delight.
The invert sugar and good amount of butter make them smooth, sweet and strong.
-
Balthazar or cinnamon truffles
This is always a winner combination. The cinnamon adds warmness to the already rich ganache.
-
Makassar or salted caramel truffles
These were very mellow and had a great
caramel au beurre salé flavour. They definitely were a favourite.
-
Lou or ginger truffles
These had the most robust flavour; tangy and powerful. I really liked it at first but quickly got bored.
-
Barbade or vanilla truffles
Probably the most difficult flavour to detect – very delicate at first but then you get a burst of banana/vanilla taste which is due to the vanilla-enriched ganaches.
It was very funny and exciting to pick a truffle, not knowing what taste it would have.
As we say in French:
'le hasard fait bien les choses'.
Labels: chocolate, favourites, pierre hermé
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
Truffles in the making...
Johanna of the
Pasionnate Cook is the current host of Sugar High Friday. And this month theme is '
truffles'. Chocolate truffles.
I plan to make four truffles from my ultimate role-model - Pierre Hermé - recipes:
-
Lou or ginger and milk chocolate truffles
-
Makassar or salted caramel truffles
-
Balthazar or cinnamon truffles
-
Barbade or vanilla truffles (hence the picture)
Sadly i won't be able to write about these ganaches lusciously wrapped in chocolate till next monday.
'Tout vient à point à qui sait attendre...'Labels: chocolate, random sweetness
Thursday, November 09, 2006
Je suis en retard, en retard; ou peut-être au pays des merveilleuses tartes – Riz au lait au chocolat
[I’m late, very late; or maybe I’m just in wonder(tart)land – Chocolate riz au lait]Time goes by and I suddenly realise that all I’ve been writting about last month are a
pie, a
tarte and a
crostata.
Have I missed something? Was October the month of tart?There must be something
comforting in baking tarts.
The reward of turning simple ingredients such as butter, flour and sugar into a delicious dough, the calmness of kneading it and the reassuring fragrance that fills the entire house.
And indeed, there are – at least for me - few things that make me feel as comfy as tarts do.
A tart seems to be
perfect to warm up the cold days autumn is now bringing us.
I guess my current passion for tarts will not stop anytime soon: I can’t wait to recreate the lovely pecan tart I had in Toronto and the
pasteis de Belem a sweet friend brought me back from Portugal.
A never-ending tea tart party!Though, I feel like something will – for a short moment – sooth my tart cravings.
Riz au lait au chocolatRiz au lait, litteraly milk rice, is the French name for a pudding made of rice cooked in sweetened milk.
It is usually flavoured with vanilla or even cinnamon if one wants to feel warm and cosy.
But I like my riz au lait best when very chocolaty. But then I am the ultimate chocolate lover!
This quite unusual twist brings out – in my humble opinion – the creaminess of the pudding and transforms the rather homely dessert into a luxurious treat.Riz au lait au chocolat au lait
serves 4
300g milk
60g arborio rice
25g sugar
seeds from 1 vanilla pod
15g butter
100g milk chocolate
Put the milk, rice, sugar and vanilla seeds in a pan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible and simmer for 30 minutes or until almost all the milk has been absorbed.
Off the heat, mix in the butter and milk chocolate until melted and combined.
Divide the riz au lait between four ramekins and chill until set (at least 4 hours).
Labels: chocolate, recipe inside, spoon desserts
Friday, October 20, 2006
Une feuille morte en automne et une délicieuse tarte au nutella
[A dead autumn leaf and a delicious nutella tart]I am deeply in love with my origins.
Each year, around mid-October I remember the
enchanting autumn I spent years and years ago in
Unchio di Verbania, a small village just 4 kilometres north to the beautiful
lago Maggiore, where my paternal grand parents were from.
There, in
Piemonte, autumns are like golden ice – I walk on this small path. The dark-brown hearth, enriched with organic matter, is covered with dead leaves. The cold wind that comes from the
montagna hits my face with such violence I almost faint.
This place exudes death and mystery. But at the same time it makes me alive and aware of every centimetre of my body.
This very unusual feeling haunts me.
Golden ice.
Ghiaccio dorato.Vibrant colours.
Colori luminosi.After a short moment, it’s difficult for the light to pierce the dense leafage of the hazelnut trees.
I suddenly remember my mother gave me a small basket to pick these
small and perfectly round nuts. She wants to make a
torta di nocciole – a fragrant hazelnut cake, cherished by every
mamma italiana.
I accelerate my moves. Soon my wicker basket lined with a striped red tea towel is full.
Then, filled with the prospect of inhaling the aromatic fumes of the cake, fresh from the oven, I hasten.
I run as fast as possible. The leaves flutter under my steps. The wind, which seemed hostile a few moments ago, is now carrying me.
I arrive to the village, relieved to finally see the pale-blue shutters. I rush inside the house and immediately feel the warmth growing on my cheeks – both from heat and excitement!
Nutella tartThese sweet memories exalt the lusciousness of hazelnuts.
But though I love hazelnuts, I love even more hazelnuts with chocolate.
The pastry and filling are straightforward and turned out perfectly.
I made a 20cm tart, so there definitely was some ganache (can you really call a mix of butter/chocolate a ganache?) left.
I also used less hazelnut and didn't toast them before baking as I reckon 11 minutes in the oven would allow them to develop the nice nutty flavour you look after when roasting them first.
And as it was for my little sister - who doesn't like the bitterness of high cocoa percentage chocolate - I used a 60% cocoa solid chocolate for the ganache.
I could have made my proper gianduja but as Patrick said: “I, on the other hand, find Nutella to be completely delicious, far better than any homemade hazelnut chocolate spread I've made.” While I’m feeling confessional I have to admit that I do too.Labels: chocolate, favourites, pierre hermé, tartes
Monday, September 04, 2006
Pierre Hermé, je t'aime – History of a Cœur Velours
Did I really need to write another post about Pierre Hermé? No, not really if we consider I've already spoken about this genius
at least six times before.
I'm sorry but I can't help.
Pierre Hermé, je t'aime.I love every single thing you make. Who can deny that you are the most creative pâtissier of the world.
Avocat banane chocolat
Pêche abricot safran
Chocolat au lait banane passionJust to say three of them.
Pierre Hermé, je t'aime.Though I already secretly knew I had to be a pâtissier, you gave me the courage to finally face the truth. Now I'm brave enough to say that as soon as I'll graduate and save enough money I will attend the pastry course at le Cordon Bleu to, one day, open my own patisserie.
Maybe it was my fate. I am a
Lenoir's mascotte afterall.
Pierre Hermé, je t'aime.By publishing a book collecting all your recipes you couldn't make me happier. At the second I had PH10 in my arms, I knew we would love each others.
This book is more than a cookbook. It's
my bible. Whenever I feel like making something special I only have to open the book and choose (and there you don't have to be fiddly about the choosing time – it is long but every second is worth it).
After that love delclaration you may think
I'm insane and though I pretend I'm not, I am, well almost!
I simply love Pierre Hermé's work to the point of no-return.So when I say Pierre Hermé, I love you; I do mean, in fact, I love what you do, but isn't
I love you more poetic than
I love what you do?
This was just an introduction to a dessert I made the other
three day
s.
- Did I already say how much I loved Plaisir Sucré?
- Everyone says YES!So I pass
this part.
Anyway this is, for me and for most of the people I know, milk chocolate heaven.
It was then a quick decision to make one for my dad's birthday. Though, I wanted it to look more like a birthday cake; thus when I found the recipe for Coeur Velours (otherwise know as Coeur Plaisir Sucré) I knew it was the ONE.
It takes quite a long time to make – I started Friday whereas the birthday party was on Sunday.
But although it's really time-consuming I simply don't mind because, for me, making of of Pierre Hermé's creation is like choosing the perfect wedding dress or to grow the perfect orchid.
It needs time, love and devotion.Here is its history.
Coeur VeloursThis entremet de fête, as Pierre Hermé calls it, is another form of the famous Cerise sur le Gâteau.
It makes a lovely birthday cake and would be perfect in fact for every occasion (have you ever thought of self-inflicted parties – think 'I have a new car, why not make a party', or 'it's raining, why not…').
Pierre Hermé suggests that it should be eaten alone to underline the different tastes and textures and I can only agree with my maître-à-penser.Coeur Velours
serves 8
Fridaymake a list of all the ingredients needed
go food-shopping
write down a retro-planning
6pm – make the dacquoise aux noisettesPreheat the oven to 170°C and line a large baking sheet.
Sieve the hazelnut powder (135g) and icing sugar (150g). Whip the egg whites (150g) with the caster sugar (50g) until stiff. Fold into the nutty mixture.
Pipe two 19cm disks on the lined baking sheet and sprinkle with roasted and crushed hazelnuts (125g).
Bake at 170°C for 25 minutes. Unmould and allow to cool on a wire rack until completely cold.
6.20pm – make the milk chocolate chantillyBring the cream (300g) to the boil and pour over the milk chocolate (210g), mix until smooth and place into an airtight container with some clingfilm on the surface to prevent the formation of a skin. Refrigerate overnight.
6.30pm – make the milk chocolate ganacheBring the cream (115g) to the boil and pour over the milk chocolate (125g). Mix until smooth and allow to cool at room temperature. And don't forget to set 1/4 of the ganache aside.
6.45pm – check if your water pulveriser can actually pulverise chocolateNow you know it doesn't work so you have to find a solution before Sunday.
7pm – make the praline feuilletéAfter having read the PH10 recipe you finally decide you should (to preserve yourself from the nervous breakdown) use the fully approved one from My chocolate desserts
In a bowl mix the Nutella (200g), melted milk chocolate (50g), broken crêpes gavottes or rice krispies (30g) and melted butter (15g)
7.15pm – go back to your work; you still have a 50-page paper due in five weeks
8pm – spread the praline feuilleté over one of the dacquoise disks
Then freeze both disks
Saturday9.15am – make the fines feuilles de chocolat au laitTemper the milk chocolate (160g) and spread onto a rhodoïd sheet or two. As soon as it starts getting set, draw three 18,5cm circles. Keep in the fridge.
9.30am – spread the half of the chocolate ganache onto one chocolate disk, then top with the other chocolate disk, spread with the remaining ganache and top with the last chocolate sheet. Freeze.
10am – work, work, work!12pm – line the side of a 19cm cercle à pâtisserie with the reserved ganachePlace the dacquoise, then the chocolate sheets/ganache then top with the whipped chocolate chantilly and cover with the upside-down dacquoise. Smooth the top with some remaining chantilly and freeze overnight.
Sunday6.45am – melt 100g of milk chocolate with 50g of butter7am – release the entremet from the cercle and ice it with the prepared mixtureAfter I discovered the pulvériser wouldn't pulverise chocolate, I decided to simply chill the milk chocolate/butter mixture then spread it on the entrement as you would for any icing/frosting.
7.20am – after having struggled against the pulvérisateur spatula, place the entremet on a nice cake stand, pop into the fridge and go back to bed
2pm – finally enjoy the delicious entremet and don't worry if it's not as good-looking as it was on the book
Labels: chocolate, entremets, favourites, pierre hermé, recipe inside
Sunday, August 06, 2006
Il fait chaud! - Brioches au coeur de chocolat
[It's hot! - Chocolate-hearted brioches]Despite allowing you to go to the swimming pool/beach instead of doing the really-urgent-things-to-do, the
heat wave that hit the south of France has few advantages.
Though, I try to remain as optimistic as possible.
OK it's deadly hot.
But yeast is active at high temperatures, isn't it?
I really love to work with
fresh yeast: its strong peppery smell; its lovely soft-rubber texture that's transformed in an airy mousse with hydration-warming.
However I always find it a bit difficult to get dough to rise properly during cold winters. Thus summer is, for me, the perfect time for a bit of yeast action: from
chocolate soft rolls to
bread; from
cinnamon rolls to
foccacia.
I do think that yeasted goods are highly rewarding for some reasons. One of them might be the
scrumptious smell of freshly baked bread/rolls that fills the entire house or the delightful relation between the dough and you during the kneading-part of the job (once I start kneading the dough and feel it becoming warmer and softer it would be hard to stop me).
La briocheBrioches are the typical pastry French children are served for breakfast or for
le goûter and I was no exception.
I remember waiting endlessly for my dad to bring me to the boulangerie
les mercredis [Wednesdays] where I would always have
une brioche au sucre s'il-vous-plait [a sugar brioche, please]. These brioches were special in two ways, the first one being the ritual and the second one being the
hidden surprise inside the brioche.
Because surprise there was! The first bite wouldn't tell you anything, but from the second bite you'd discover a melting chocolate heart.
Brioches au coeur de chocolat
makes 24 small brioches
500ml warm milk + extra milk
42g fresh yeast
1kg flour
200g caster sugar
a pinch of salt
2 large eggs
160g melted butter
24 milk or dark chocolate squares
Combine the milk, yeast and a teaspoon of the sugar in a bowl. Stir once or twice and allow rising for at least 10 minutes.
In a large bowl, mix the flour, remaining sugar and salt. Make a well in the centre and pour the yeast mixture on top of it.
Add the eggs and melted butter and mix, first with a round knife and then with your hands – until it forms a ball.
Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and knead for 8-10 minutes. It should be soft and not sticky.
Butter generously a large bowl. Place the dough in the buttered bowl and let rise overnight in the fridge.
The next morning, allow the dough to come at room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 200°C.
Knead the dough and form small 90g balls and insert a chocolate square in the centre of each ball.
Fill two 12-bun muffin tin with the dough balls and let rise for 20 minutes. Brush with a little milk, then bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes.
If the tops get too brown loosely cover with foil.
Labels: chocolate, recipe inside, yeasted treats
Sunday, July 30, 2006
Mmm, c'est trop bon - Muffins aux pépites de chocolat
[Yum, it's so delicious - Chocolate chip muffins]Today I have a confession to make.
I
did say that
ChocolateChocolate wasn't that good because
I
did think that there were too many similar recipes; making the reading a bit confusing but
I
did buy it and
I
did like the cover, design, writing and pictures but
I
did still think there were far too many junk chocolate added to the cakes and bars then
I
did make one recipe and another
And now I
do love this book.
The recipes are trustful. You can't go wrong: well explained, accurate measurements (even if it's in cups and spoons).
This book is now a favourite although I won't try all the recipes (especially the ones with chopped chocolate bars added or the ones loaded with shredded coconut).
To tell the truth, I was still unsure about my book choice when I received the book from amazon, but when I made the
flourless bittersweet chocolate cake I slightly changed my mind. Maybe it wasn't as bad.
Though the true révélation was when I made the
chocolate chip muffins. A pure killer recipe.
Chocolate chip muffins are the type of food I wouldn't eat as a child. I would always go for
madeleines and
sablés, but certainly not for muffins – not enough fashionable at that time to be sold in France.
Now I crave muffins – not as big as a piece of cake but equally delicious (to say the least).
Though I'm always scared when buying a muffin – it is going to be too dry or too cakey?
With Lisa's muffins, you really don't have to worry. They're perfect.
Giant chocolate chip muffinsThese muffins are just delicious. The crumb is fine and light and you have chocolate chips at each bite.
They keep well for 3 days – though I love them still warm from the oven, but the big bonus is that you can freeze them baked for up to a month!Chocolate chip muffins
makes 14
2 cups flour
2 1/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
2 cups chocolate chip (or a mixture of dark chocolate chips and milk chocolate chips)
160g butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
2 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
3 large eggs
250ml milk
Preheat the oven to 190°C.
Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a bowl. In another bowl, toss the chocolate chips with 1 tablespoon of the flour mixture.
Cream the butter with an electric mixer on medium speed for 3 minutes. Add the granulate sugar and beat for 2 minutes; add the light brown sugar and beat for a further 2 minutes. Mix in the vanilla extract and beat in the eggs, one at a time.
Still beating – on low speed – alternately add the flour mixture (in 3 times) and the milk (in 2 times).
Stir in the chocolate chip and divide the batter between 14 muffin cups.
Bake in the preheated oven for 30 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of a muffin comes out clean.
Place the muffin pan onto a wire rack and allow to cool for 20 minutes. Then remove the muffins from the pan and serve.
PS. Congrats to Sam that got oven 2000$ of pledges!
'Now Sam you can relax and have bite' says Lapinou...
Labels: chocolate, cupcakes and muffins, favourites, recipe inside
Sunday, July 16, 2006
Willy Wonka's ever lasting chocolate gelato
A little more than a year ago, the movie Charlie and the Chocolate factory was finally released on screen.
As a
foodie and
chocolate-addict I had to see it. I was sure I would enjoy and I did.
The story is great. But my favourite part of the movie is the behind-the-scene stuff: the
luscious chocolate river, the
whipped cream, the
back-shop… A pure delight for both the eyes and mind.
Ever since I’ve been obsessed with chocolate (ok I admit I am finding a reason to my ever-chocolate-obsession); but how one can’t be obsessed with chocolate once one discovers the
creativity and
yumminess of Willy Wonka’s chocolates.
Sometimes I like to think that the WW chocolate factory does exist and that I am able to buy its delicious treats.
Sadly I can’t.
But by making this gelato I found the true essence of Willy Wonka’s ever lasting chocolate gelato:
creamy, intense, delicious.
To tell the truth I came across gelato quite late in life. All I knew was
crème glacée [ice cream] and
sorbet.
I’ve always find ice cream a bit too creamy and sorbets a bit too icy; so the discovery of gelatos (or gelati) has changed my whole perception of iced delights.
I don’t really know how gelato should be defined, but in my approach a gelato (which is by the way the Italian name for ice cream) is an ice cream made without cream, but still containing eggs and dairy products.
I love gelato for many reasons:
it is creamy but not heavy
it is soft and not icy
in one word: THE ice cream luxuryAs Willy Wonka could have said!
Intense chocolate gelatoThis gelato is very intense. I love its deep chocolate-flavour, its creamy texture and the fact that it holds its shape well even by hot summer weather.Intense chocolate gelato
makes 1L
60g high-quality dark chocolate
375ml whole milk (fanny: I used semi-skimmed milk)
250ml condensed milk
160g white caster granulated sugar
100g Van Houten cocoa powder, sifted
4 large egg yolks
pinch salt
Coarsely chop the chocolate.
In a heavy saucepan bring the milk, condensed milk, and about half of sugar just to a simmer, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.
Remove the pan from the heat and add the cocoa powder and chocolate, whisking until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth.
In a bowl beat the egg yolks, remaining sugar and salt until thick and pale. Add the hot chocolate mixture in a slow stream, whisking, and pour into saucepan. Cook the custard over moderately low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens. Pour the custard through a sieve into a metal bowl set in ice and cold water and cool. Chill the custard, covered, until cold. Churn the custard in an ice-cream maker. Transfer to an airtight container and put in freezer to harden for several hours.
Labels: chocolate, ice creams and other iced delights, recipe inside
Wednesday, July 12, 2006
Mousse au chocolat au lait et au caramel au beurre salé
[Caramel au beurre salé and milk chocolate mousse] On caramel au beurre saléCaramel au beurre salé [salted butted caramel] might sound strange but it is a classic combination. The
beurre salé [salted butter] enhance the caramel flavour, resulting in a delicious treat.
Caramel au beurre salé comes from the north-west of france, from somewhere between
Bretagne and
Normandie. In these places, it's a common statment to produce milk and thus cream and butter. And because of the proximity of the ocean/sea, salt is also produced for our greatest pleasure, leading to the confection of the famous caramels.
On chocolate and caramelThe association of caramel and chocolate is also un classique these days; from Pierre Hermé's macarons Plénitude to Michael Recchiuti's Burnt Caramel ganache.
This pair is also a favourite of mine.
It seems the caramel boosts the chocolate aroma. And to tell the truth it's nothing but science.
Chocolate = fermented + roasted + ground cocoa beans = Maillard reactionCaramel = caramelised sugar = caramelisationMaillard reaction and
caramelisation are both non-enzymatic browning.
Non-enzymatic browning is responsible for
colours (brown tones) and
flavours (subtly burnt).
As a result, chocolate and caramel are made to go together, highlighting each others.
On chocolate, caramel AND saltSalt is an effective taste-enhancer and adding salt to a confection enable to develop its flavours. Nothing less, nothing more!
Mousse au chocolat au lait et au caramel au beurre saléThis mousse is a delight. Chocolaty, caramely!
I love the way the chocolate and the caramel complement each others to form a perfect after-dinner pudding.
I like serving this mousse (and any other chocolate mousse) in espresso cups.
Let me think... Everything's been said! Enjoy.
Just a short note - The NY times recipe says 'deglaze with the cream and butter', while the butter should be added first until melted, then the boiling hot cream should be poured over. If you follow these two steps, seizing should not occur.Mousse au chocolat au lait et au caramel au beurre salé
serves 6
100g granulated sugar
2 tbsp water
30g good-quality salted butter
200ml double cream or
crème fleurette, heated to the boiling point
200g milk chocolate (38% cocoa solid)
3 eggs, separated
Make a caramel with the sugar and water.
Off the heat, mix in the butter until melted.
Then pour over the boiling hot cream and continue mixing til smooth.
Add the milk chocolate and wait for a minute or two for the chocolate to melt. Homogenise by mixing.
Mix in the egg yolks. Whisk the egg whites until they form firm peaks and fold into the chocolate mixture.
Divide between six ramekins and chill for at least 6 hours.
Labels: chocolate, recipe inside, spoon desserts
Saturday, June 10, 2006
Gâteau Craque
I can't even remember the countless hours i spent on the kitchen counter at my grandparents house. I loved to listen to my grandmother while she was cooking.
She always explained me everything in detail: why she should add this or mix that way...
But the part i prefered was the one about 'le gâteau Craque' [the Craque Cake].
This cake was of my biggest
food fantasy. I litteraly dreamt about it several times.
Maybe because i had never seen my grandma making it and thus i couldn't know how it looks like, how it taste like.
I know i've said this before, but food you're never eaten can become such a fantasy, a goal to achieve.
Therefore, i tried hard to imagine how the gâteau Craque could be. The only thing i knew about it was its name: gâteau Craque; it sounded so yummy.
Craque is an adjective derived from craquer.
Craquer can mean both
to crumble or
to fall in love with something/someone. So, when i heard its name, i couldn't help.
My grandmother was teasing me: she would say how good it was, but woudn't give me a clue about its taste or texture.
I recently spent a week at my grandparents'. And when my grandmother asked me if i wanted to make the gâteau craque, the only thing i could answer was YES.
Actually it's a
chocolate cake covered with a
chocolate-almond meringue icing.
Though, it's not your usual chocolate cake. I was pretty astonished because it contains:
- no butter
- just 50g of flour and 50g of potato starch
The cake itself was very moist and not very sweet, so the meringue icing is a good option.
Gâteau CraqueThis is a nice little cake that has a great texture.
Note that it's best served in small portions (hence the 10-12 servings) because of the richness of the luscious icecream.
I think i would have prefered the icing without butter -- but it's personal: i don't like buttercream.Gâteau Craque
serves 10-12
for the icing125g icing sugar
2 egg whites
20g dark chocolate
20g butter
few drops of almond essence
150g butter, at room temperature
Put the egg whites and icing sugar in a metal bowl.
Place the bowl in a large pan filled with cold water and turn on the heat. Start whisking the egg whites and icing sugar and stop when the water starts boiling.
Melt the chocolate and the butter in a pan and mix into the meringue. Add the almond essence and the creamed butter.
Keep in thye fridge for at least an hour before icing the cake.
for the cake4 eggs, separated
2 tbsp hot water from a recently boiled kettle
130g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
50g flour
50g potato starch
30g cocoa powder
1 tsp baking powder
Preheat the oven to 180°C.
Line a 25cm springform tin with parchemnt paper.
Whisk the egg yolks and the water. While whsking, add the sugar and vanilla extract and continue whisking until light and frothy.
Mix in the flour, potato starch, cocoa powder and baking powder.
Whisk the egg whites until firm and fold them into the previous mix.
Pour this mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 30 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean.
Once cold, slice the cake in two layers. Put on layer on a plate, spread with the icing, sit the other cake on top and ice the top and sides of the cake with the remaining icing.
Labels: cakes of all kind, chocolate, recipe inside
Monday, April 17, 2006
Les cloches sonnent...
I am not familiar with Easter traditions in other countries, but in France the Bells from Roma bring the chocolate eggs. So when we ear
the bells ring, we jump into the garden looking for all the chocolate goodies hidden in the grass...
It's always a great moment for the children and actually for the parents as well.
This year i decided to make the chocolate eggs. I bought the moulds and Barry Callebaud high quality chocolate: both dark and milk.
It was quite fun as when you start making chocolate eggs: 1) you can't stop - tempering the chocolate is highly addictive and 2) all your kitchen will be covered in chocolate by the end of the day.
It is very time consuming too; though it may be because i have only one mould which allows me to make only two eggs at a time.
How to make chocolate eggs?for 2 medium sized eggs
enough chocolate to fill the mould - 450g for mine
a chocolate thermometerMelt the chocolate on a double boiler until it reaches 50-55°C. Then allow to cool to 27°C (milk chocolate) or 28°C (dark chocolate).
Finally heat again on a double boiler until it reaches 29°C (milk choc.) or 30-32°C (dark choc.).
The chocolate is ready to use.
Fill the moulds to the top and tap the filled moulds on the countertop to release any air bubbles.
Wait for a few minutes and tap out the excess chocolate into a lined baking sheet (you'll re-use this chocolate).
Now, using a flat spatula, scrape across the mould, removing the excess chocolate.
Allow to cool until completely set and repeat once or twice.
When the chocolate is finally set, carefully unmould the eggs.
What is more rewarding than a happy face when discovering the hidden chocolate treasures?
HAPPY EASTER!!!Labels: chocolate, garden and campagne, recipe inside
Tuesday, March 07, 2006
Macaron Plénitude - or using one of the most beautiful book: PH10 Patisserie Pierre Herme
Do you remember
my attempt at
winning the
most beautiful cookbook of all the time?
I didn't win, that's a fact, but getting this peculiar book has been on the top of my to-buy-list since this day.
Anyway, I had a good time creating
Divine Cannelle and have been very flattered to see it ending up among the five finalists.
But after weeks and weeks of deep-thinking, I decided I should go for the book; whatever the price tag shows up.
The (expensive) book is called
PH10 in honour of the ten-year long work of one of the greatest pâtisserie chef: Pierre Herme.
In this book, Pierre Hermé reveals the recipes for all his
magnificent creations such as the famous Ispahan (flavours: rose, letchi and raspberry) or the celebrated Mogador (flavours: milk chocolate, passion fruit, pineapple, spices).
Actually "
ouvrir PH10 c'est un peu comme etre soudain en possession d'un vieux grimoire revelant la formule magique du bonheur" [opening PH10 is like being in possession of an ancient grimoire that gives us the jinx for happiness].
And indeed this is true; when you immerse yourself in that 600 pages book you realise how much
work and
love as been put into it. 300 recipes, 200 (lovely) pictures.
I love the
professional layout and the useful "composition" of the pastry.
Besides that, I can only admire
Pierre Herme: his ability, his creativity and his deep love for the beautiful.
I love the way he created
"collections" of pastries; I mean you can find your favourite pastry in various forms: entremets, chocolates, small cake, tarts, ice creams, macarons, confiseries…
I think he really brings out the glorious nature of patisserie.
The first recipe I tried from this book was the Macarons Plenitude as I didn't have much time to make a complexe entremets and because I had all the ingredients in my cupboards.
These macarons are delicious. The slightly salted ganache really enhance the delicate chocolate flavour.
From top:
- chocolate macaron
- eclats de chocolat à la fleur de sel [finely chopped fleur de sel-flavoured chocolate]
- chocolate and caramel ganache
- caramel macaron
How to make them?
First you've got to make the
fleur de sel (a slightly coarse salt with a delicate taste)
chocolate "eclats".
So what you do is basically – temper the chocolate (70% solid cocoa =
Guarana) and make a thin layer of chocolate on which you sprinkle some fleur de sel.
Then comes the
ganache; which is maybe my favourite part of the game. This delicious ganache is composed of a:
- toffee-ish caramel made by adding salted butter (here Pierre Hermé suggests La Viette Demi-Sel butter) and cream.
- melted chocolates (56% solid cocoa =
Caraque, 40% solid cocoa =
Jivara).
This ganache is so
luscious I used the leftover to make one of the most delightful truffles I've ever managed to produce.
Finally, you've got to make the
macaron biscuits.
These are made by mixing a
meringue italienne [Italian meringue] and a "
tant-pour-tant" (a mix of equal quantities of almond powder and icing sugar) + fresh egg whites.
Adding melted chocolate (for the chocolate macarons).
Actually my mix was still too liquid (but neatly better that the last time I tried to make macarons) but I think it was because my syrup was hot enough (it must reach 117 C) and I didn't have a good thermometer to check that.
I will go to my, now, favourite shop in Cannes where it will be a doodle to find such a thermometer.
My other problem is that I baked the second batch for too long which resulted in crispy-rather-than-chewy-but-still-delicious macarons. So I will suggest respecting the cooking times next time!
Labels: chocolate, cookbooks, favourites, macarons, pierre hermé
Tuesday, February 07, 2006
Soothing London - the last days - Cupcakes and roast chicken
Back from London, I can't remember much of the last few days apart from the fact that they might have been the most relaxing and enjoyable days in my life.
D. and I just stayed in Kingston and went to London once again. It was
so cosy.
I baked my (not really) first ever cupcakes from
the book I had recently purchased and they were a hit.
And we really enjoyed the German chocolate cupcakes along with a cup a hot chocolate (for me) or strong espresso (for D.).
Easy-mix yellow cupcakes with cream cheese frostingMakes 12 cupcakes
This recipe you can achieve the perfect-simple cupcake in a minute. All you have to do is mix the liquid ingredients into the dry ones.
So easy but oh so good!
The cream cheese frosting has the right consistency to be piped and is delicious (you must lick the spoon…).For the cupcakes1 ¼ cups plain flour
½ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
¼ tsp salt
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 cup corn oil
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ cup sour cream
For the frosting½ cup (100g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
6 ounces (170g) cream cheese
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 cups icing sugar
To make the cupcakesPreheat the oven to 350°F-180°C.
Line a 12-bun muffin tin with muffin cases.
Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a medium bowl and set aside.
In a large bowl, beat the egg and yolk and sugar until thickened and lightened to a cream colour (fanny : I did that by hand and it took only 5 minutes, maybe even less).
Mix in the oil and vanilla until blended. Mix in the sour cream until no white streaks remain. Mix in the flour mixture until it is incorporated and the batter is smooth.
Fill the tins with the batter and bake for 23 minutes.
Allow the cupcakes to cool on their tin for 10 minutes, then unmould and place the cupcakes on a wire rack until completely cooled.
To make the frostingIn a large bowl, beat the butter, cream cheese and vanilla extract until smooth and thoroughly blended. Add the icing sugar, mixing until smooth.
The frosting is ready to use.
German chocolate cupcakesMakes 12 cupcakes
Ever since I saw German chocolate cupcakes on the cupcake bake shop, I have been desperate to make some myself.
So when I spotted this recipe I could only make it.
The cupcakes are moist and delicious.
Though, I didn't make the frosting that was given in the recipe but simply made a chocolate cream cheese frosting by replacing some of the icing sugar by cocoa powder.easy-mix yellow cupcake batter (above)
¼ cup heavy cream
2/3 tbsp unsalted butter at room temperature
3 ounces (85g) semisweet chocolate
1/6 tsp vanilla extract
Preheat the oven to 350°F-180°C.
Line a 12-bun muffin tin with muffin cases.
In a medium sauce pan heat the cream and butter over low heat until the butter has melted.
Remove the pan from the heat; add the chopped chocolate and let sit for 30 seconds to soften.
Add the vanilla and whisk the sauce until it is smooth and all the chocolate has melted.
Pour this sauce over the easy-mix yellow cupcake batter and mix until no light streaks remain.
Fill each paper liner with the batter and bake for 23 minutes.
Allow the cupcakes to cool on their tin for 10 minutes, then unmould and place the cupcakes on a wire rack until completely cooled.
I also remember making a
roast chicken with all the trimmings for supper. It was so delicious.
Actually I have a great and unique way to cook the chicken that makes it tender and tasty.
With it we had the
best roast potatoes ever; which I make using new potatoes. I know it's not usual, but I love the way the potatoes get so crispy outside and so soft-mashed inside. A pure delight! And I must talk about the
Yorkshire puddings, my favourite dish ever. I love them big and golden; served just out from the oven with a good splash of gravy.
This is the end of my (short) trip to the UK. I hope I will be able to go back there soon.
Labels: chocolate, cupcakes and muffins, make a meal of it, recipe inside, sweet places
Wednesday, February 01, 2006
Soothing London - Day THREE - Brownies and cheesecake bar
Now that I've got my book about cupcakes and all the professional tools to ice them (except for the 1M nozzle, but I am going to London tomorrow; which obviously means I am going to Jane Asher's sugarcraft shop) I have to buy a muffin tin. I already own one, but here in Kingston there is none. So I headed towards John Lewis which has a great cook's tool shop.
I love the John Lewis products – they're cheap and with a professional quality.
So I bought a small 6-bun tin and couldn't resist to get some nice brown muffin cases.
Then I went to a great health shop called food for thoughts, where you can find a great range of organic grains, cereals and products.
I was so happy when I saw that little pot of tahini (sesame paste), because it seems it's not available in France and I've been craving to make some hummus lately.
I also love their organic jumbo oat and barley with which I make the most delicious muesli.
Food for thoughts
38 market place
Kingston
In front of that little shop there is a great Borders. I love Borders as its cookbooks collection is updated regularly and also because you can sit in a comfortable sofa with a Starbucks while reading your favourite cookbook.
This time I had a tall white chocolate mocha (which is so good associated with a banana and caramel muffin) and read Chocolate chocolate by Lisa Yockelson. The cover certainly looks good but the content is a little disappointing – in my taste.
I think it was a little TOO MUCH. I mean I love chocolate, as a lot of people do, but I have the feeling that the writer forced herself to like it. There are way too many chocolate chips – it seems she didn't know what to put in her cake so 'why not chocolate chips, as I am a chocolate lover and can never have enough of it!'. This is my very own personal feeling and I clearly understand that the book is called Chocolate chocolate so that's normal to find so many chocolate chips in its recipes.
But I also think there are too many variations of one recipe which makes the reading a bit confusing.
However I think the recipes are sound great and creative and I loved the first part of the book in which the writer makes a complete list of the best chocolates to use and how to reveal their flavours.
So I'd encourage you to buy this book if you're a chocolate supermegafan.
Anyway, i think the book is worth it only for its beautiful the pictures were and I am considering buying the book and using it when in absolute chocolate crave.
And indeed D. and I had chocolate cravings later that day. So inspired by the pot of Milkyway spread I spotted at Sainsbury's, I made a brownies and cheesecake bar.
Brownies and cheesecake bar
Serves 10 as part of a tea
Milkyway is a spread combining two different flavours – hazelnut chocolate and milk.
My brownies and cheesecake bar does exactly the same. The base is a rich brownies and the topping is a slightly sour cheesecake.
I love the balance between these two layers.
And I love how the bar melts in your mouth.
This is better eaten the day after it is made. For the (one-pan) brownies
175g best dark chocolate
175g butter
150g caster sugar
3 eggs
110g flour
For the cheesecake
200g cream cheese
1 egg
50g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp flour
Preheat the oven to 180°C. And line a 33cm x 23cm x 5.5cm tin.
Melt the butter and chocolate over low heat. Turn off the heat and mix in the sugar. Beat in the eggs, one at a time and finally sieve in the flour and mix well.
Pour the batter into the prepared tin and set aside while making the cheesecake mixture.
In a large bowl mix all the ingredients together until you've got a smooth mixture.
Spoon this over the brownies base and with a rounded knife swirl the batter so that the brownies form lines across the cheesecake layer.
Bake for 45 minutes and turn the heat off leaving the tin in the oven until completely cooled.
Keep in a cool and dry place overnight.
Labels: cakes of all kind, chocolate, recipe inside, sweet places
Thursday, December 29, 2005
Mille-feuille au chocolat et à la vanille
[Chocolate and vanilla mille-feuille]I have an obsession with puff pastry; actually even if i had never made it before today, i've always felt very confident about it.
But i thought it was time, now, to *really* make it. And if i wanted to make puff pastry i was not ready to make any kind of puff pastry, it had to be something special. Actually i think that if i am able to do a special kind of puff pastry i can make plain puff pastry as well.
As soon as i got
Pierre Hermé's Mes desserts au chocolat, my eye has been caught by a wonderfull picture of chocolate puff pastry. It had to be THE one.
This puff pastry is made by a simple flour-butter-water dough and a butter-cocoa powder dough.
You have to give the dough 6 turns, leaving at least 2 hours between each turn.
I just advise you to roll the dough thinner than 4mm when ready to bake as it will rise a lot (see picture).
While making it, i wasn't sure how the pastry would turn out as i expected it to look like Pierre Herné's. But the white layers of mine disappeared quite quickly (after 3 turns). Thus i was reassured to see that
Keiko's were much like mine. What a relief !
After making the pastry, i had to find a way to use it and the chocolate and vanilla millefeuille which the négatif du mille-feuille au chocolat [photographic negative of the chocolate filled millefeuille] looked so perfect.
All you make is a rich crème patissière [flour enriched custard]. And though i dind't use orange zest in it, i thought it would looked pretty as a decoration.
I had a little problem with the creme patissière as it was too liquid. I guess i should have add a little more starch than the 55g stipulated in the recipe.
Anyway, i'm very happy with how the puff pastry came out. And this dessert is wonderful. You can really feel the taste of cocoa.
Labels: chocolate, entremets, favourites
Saturday, December 17, 2005
Divine cannelle
When i discovered that Laurent from
epicurien.be organized a contest and that
the prize was Pierre Hermé's new book ph 10, i just couldn't resist to participate.
My mind have been wondering about how to assemble an
original chocolatey creation. And i finally came up with what i called
'divine cannelle' [divine cinnamon](nice name, no?). It's actually a
milk chocolale and cinnamon mousse on an
almond dacquoise and covered with a
milk chocolate ganache. All i can say is that this dessert is already a DO-It-AGAIN in my list. It's so good. You can feel
the mousse melting in your mouth and i love
the cinnamon perfume along with the chocolate. The
dacquoise is subtle here but add a great texture.
Je pense qu'il n'y a aucun doute sur le fait que le chocolat est un des ingrédients préférés des amoureux de cuisine et de pâtisserie. Sa couleur profonde, son goût unique, son parfum divin et sa texture si versatile font de lui le compagnon idéal du pâtissier.
Ses utilisations sont infinies: ganaches, gâteaux, biscuits sont autant de variations qui le mettent en valeur. Mais pour moi la forme permettant au chocolat d'exprimer toute sa finesse et sa volupté est la mousse. Cependant j'aime une mousse légère et délicatement parfumée au chocolat.
Pour cela, j'ai choisi d'utiliser du chocolat au lait afin de lui donner les lettres de noblesse qu'il mérite entièrement. En effet, s'il a souvent été sous-estimé, à tort, le chocolat au lait est doux, fondant et tout aussi délicieux que le classique chocolat noir. Comme le chocolat est l'élément central de la recette, je vous conseille d'employer le meilleur chocolat possible: du Valrhona Lacté ou du Lindt Lait Extra Fin.
J'ai ici choisi le chocolat au lait Lindt car je n'ai pas pu me procurer le Valrhona, et le résultat a été plus que satisfaisant.
Pour mettre en valeur la douceur du chocolat, une pointe de cannelle est idéale – c'est ce qui m'a été révélé par le délicieux "Gauguin" d'une petite pâtisserie de ma ville.
Ce dessert aurait été tout aussi parfait présenté dans de jolis verres, mais je n'ai pas pu résister à utiliser les cercles à pâtisserie que j'ai récemment acheté à Londres. Il fallait donc créer une base à cette douceur. Une dacquoise aux amandes se prête joliment à ce rôle en apportant un fondant irrésistible.
[I think it's accurate that chocolate is one of the favourite ingredients for cooks and food lovers. Its deep color, it's divine perfume and its versatile texture make him the perfect ingredient for any pastry maker.
You can find a thousand ways of using it : ganache, cakes, cookies. But for me mousse
is the best way to enable the chocolate to express its delicacy. Howewer i like my mousse to be light and subtle in flavour.
To achieve that i chose to use milk chocolate as i think it deserves a full attention. Indeed if it's been, wrongly, underestimated, milk chocolate is mild, 'fondant' and as delicious as the dark kind (or shall i say king ?).
As chocolate is the main ingredient of the recipe i advise you to use the best milk chocolate you can find : valrhona lacte or lindt extra fin.
I couldn't find valrhona, so i used lindt and the result was just breath-taking.
Cinnamon is ideal to highlight the mildness of milk chocolate - as i learned from a delicious pastry called 'gauguin' i find in town.
This dessert would be excellent served in nice martini glasses, but i could resist to use the new cooking rings i brought back from london. So i had to create a base for the mousse : an almond dacquoise does the job with great success.]
DIVINE CANNELLEPour 4 personnes
[serves 4]
Dacquoise aux amandes[Almond dacquoise]
2 blancs d'œufs (environ 75g), à température ambiante [2 egg whites at room temperature]
85g de sucre blanc extra fin [85g caster sugar]
70g d'amandes moulues [70g ground almonds]
Préchauffez le four à 160°C.
Dans un bol en inox sec et propre, battez en neige ferme les blancs d'œufs. Puis ajoutez le sucre cuillérée après cuillérée, jusqu'à obtention d'une meringue brillante et ferme.
A l'aide d'une large cuillère en métal, incorporez délicatement les amandes moulues.
Chemisez une plaque à pâtisserie de papier sulfurisé et versez l'appareil à dacquoise sur cette plaque en formant un rectangle d'environ 15cm sur 20cm et d'une hauteur de 1 à 2cm.
Cuire dans le four préchauffé pendant 20 minutes ou jusqu'à ce que la dacquoise soit joliment dorée mais toujours souple.
Laissez refroidir complètement avant de continuer.
Découpez quatre disques de la taille des cercles à pâtisserie. Posez les disques de dacquoise sur une plaque à pâtisserie recouverte de papier sulfurisé et placez les cercles à pâtisserie sur les disques.
[Preheat the oven to 160°C. Line a baking sheet.
In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Add the sugar one spoonful at a time while you continue beating.
Then gently fold in the ground almonds with a metal spoon.
Pour the mixture over the baking sheet; it should be 2cm high.
Bake for 20min or until nicely golden but still soft.
Allow to cool completely before going on with the rest.
Cut out 4 disks out of the size of the cooking rings you're using and put these on another lined baking sheet. Place the cooking rings over the disks.]
Mousse au chocolat au lait et à la cannelle[Cinnamon and milk chocolate mousse]
3 feuilles de gélatine [3 gelatin leaves]
150ml de lait entier [150ml full fat milk]
200g de chocolat au lait de qualité (voir la note ci-dessus) [200g high quality milk chocolate (see note above)]
1 cuillère à café bombée de cannelle en poudre [a teaspoon of ground cinnamon]
200ml de crème entière [200ml whipping cream]
Faites tremper les feuilles de gélatine dans un bol rempli d'eau froide.
Portez le lait à ébullition et retirez du feu. Ajoutez la gélatine égouttée, le chocolat, coupé en fins copeaux et la canelle. Puis mélangez à l'aide d'une spatule en silicone. Laissez refroidir pendant une dizaine de minutes.
Battez la crème en chantilly et incorporez-la délicatement à la ganache.
Remplissez les cercles à pâtisserie préparés de cet appareil.
Laissez au réfrigérateur au moins 6 heures, ou mieux la nuit entière.
Démoulez les mousses avec leur base de dacquoise et posez-les sur une grille afin de procéder au glaçage.
[Soak the gelatin leavs in cold water for 5 minutes.
Bring the milk to the boil and turn off the heat. Add the drained gelatine, chocolate (cut into small pieces) and cinnamon and mix with a spatula. Allow to cool for 10 minutes.
Whip the cream until it forms stiff peaks and fold into the chocolate mixture.
Fill the dacquoise-based cooking rings with this mousse and chill for at least 6 hours or better overnight.
Unmould the mousses with their dcquoise bases and place them or a wire rack to cover them with the ganache (below).]
Ganache pour la couverture[Icing ganche]
2 feuilles de gélatine [2 gelatin leaves]
200g de crème liquide [200g double cream]
200g de chocolat au lait de qualité [200g high quality milk chocolate]
Faites tremper les feuilles de gélatine dans un bol rempli d'eau froide.
Portez la crème à ébullition. Hors du feu, faites-y fondre les feuilles de gélatine préalablement égouttées et ajoutez le chocolat coupé en copeaux. Mélangez sans incorporer d'air. Laissez quelques minutes et recouvrez les gâteaux de cette ganache.
Mettez au frais pendant 2 heures au minimum.
[Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water.
Bring the cream to the boil and take off the heat. Add the gelatine and chocolate and mix until mooth. But take care not to incorporate air (as i did). Allow to cool for a couple of minutes and ice the mousses. Chill for at least 2 hours.]
Note : you can make some chocolate petals to decorate the iced mousses.
Labels: chocolate, entremets, recipe inside
Tuesday, December 13, 2005
Perfect chewy chocolate chip cookies, melting brownies and gingerbread snowflakes
I love to cook. It's a fact. But when i meet someone that loves to cook as much as i do, guess what we do. WE COOK. For days, literally.
And we tend to use each occasion as an excuse to cook. Saturday we made a great dinner for our girlfriends and yesterday we baked.
This year i've got an
awesome english teacher : he's fun and wants us to speak as much as possible. So whenever we want we can plan to talk about a topic; and this week Maud and i decided to plan a cookie swap for the english class.
We made :
- perfect chewy chocolate chip cookies (following MY recipe but with some changes - see below)
- melting brownies
- gingerbread snowflakesPerfect milk chocolate chip cookiesJust a short note: thank you Maud for helping improving my cookie recipe.Indeed this time the cookies were exactly what i wanted them to be; which means as chewy as mine were, but also
*thick*.
They were a pure delight.
Slighty
crispy outside and
oozing inside. With
big chunks of milk chocolate.
Yum delicious !You can find the recipe here, but i'll give you some good (and new) tips:
- we used
1 1/2 cup caster sugar and 1 1/2 cup light muscovado sugar: increasing the muscovado sugar ratio helps the cookies getting chewier and with a lovely golden colour.
- we replaced the butter by
vegetable shortening as we did not have enough butter. I think it might have an influence on the texture but truth to be told i prefer my cookies with a great
butter taste. So i think the kind of fat you use don't have much influence.
- but what's important is not to add the fat melted as my first recipe stipulated but cold and diced. So what i do now is:
first put flour, baking powder, sugars and vanilla seeds in a bowl. Add the butter (cold and diced) and rub it into the flour mixture. Add the eggs. Add the chocolate chips (here we used milk chocolate chip only).
The dough won't be as smooth as the old one, it'll be more like a pate sablée [shortcrust pastry]. So you'll have to form small disks of 1/4 cup worth and 2cm thick.Melting browniesWe used the recipe from Nigella Lawson's Feast : snowflaked brownies but leaving out the white chocolate chips.
We ended with delicious plain brownies, perfectly cooked.
Maud prefered to reduce the sugar to 300g, but i think that 350g (as stipulated in the recipe) wouldn't have been too much. Blame my sweet tooth for that.
Gingerbread cookiesDue to popular request
(*Tiphaine*), i'll write down the recipe we used to make these wonderful gingerbread cookies.
Just remember
these are better the day after they are made.
Festive gingerbreadFrom
Delicious(december), page 178
makes 18 (but we made at least 36 - small shapes)
380g plain flour
1 tbsp ground ginger
(we used cinnamon instead)1 tsp mixed spice
125g unsalted butter (we used vegetable shortening - no flavour modifications)
175g dark muscovado sugar
1 medium egg, beaten
4 tbsp maple syrup
(we used honey)Preheat the oven to 190°C.
Sift the flour, ginger and spice into a bowl. Rub the butter and ugar, removing any sugar lumps. Stir in the egg and maple syrup and mix well.
Tip onto a floured surface and roll out to 5mm thick.
Cut out shapes using festive cookie cutters and place on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Bake 10-12 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack. Decorate with icing (see the recipe for royal icing here.
Keep on an airtight box until the next day.
Labels: cakes of all kind, chocolate, cookies, favourites, recipe inside
Sunday, December 04, 2005
Cooking solutions for busy students - Delicious ONE minute molten chocolate muffins
I am a busy student, but i like to eat fresh food and not ready-made-full-of-fat food. Am i the only one? I guess not.
So here i am starting a new series for busy people who don't have time to cook but love to eat good food.
I had this idea about a month ago because of two people i deeply love :
1. David, my lovely boyfriend always asks me for some quick but good thing to cook. Recently he made super-easy vol-au-vent and the post is on its way.
2. Anna-Sarah, a great friend of mine that i can't see often anymore but still adores her. Last week or so she told me she was going to eat (shall i tell you or not?) canned chili con carne (i'm not blamming her at all as it really proves WE don't have time to cook - i even eat ready cooked chicken wings...).
So now let's come to today's solution.
I have been craving for moist chocolate cakes for weeks, but sadly i don't have an oven so i thought "no baking till xmas...".
But then i recalled that carrot cake recipe that must be made in a microwave. And thought : if a carrot cake can be made in a microwave, why other cakes couldn't.
And i thought of that recipe Nigella gave for a "seven minute steamed chocolate pudding" in How to Eat. I tried it and throw it to the bin. It was dry and not chocolatey enough.
But today i decided all cakes can be made in a microwave so i tried Nigella's Molten chocolate baby cakes from How to be a domestic goddess and the result was just stunning!
I baked them in muffin paper cases to prevent them from sticking as i noticed that microwave cooked cakes tends to stick.
Just a short note : don't bake the muffins in classic muffin tins as they rise (even if they don't have any baking powder in the dough).
I advise you to put the mufin liners in mugs and then to fill them to the top of the muffin cases.
Then cook for just ONE minute and that's it. Delicious ONE minute molten chocolate muffinsmakes 8 to 10 muffins
80g soft unsalted butter (fanny: the recipe uses 50g but as microwave ovens tends to dry the food, i think that a little more fat helps the muffins staying moist)
350g best dark chocolate
150g caster sugar
4 large eggs
50g plain flour (fanny: i used a little more - 70g)
Melt the chocolate in the microwave and set aside.
Cream the butter and sugar (tip: if your butter isn't soft enough, a quick turn in the micrwave does miracles). Then add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Now add the flour and when all is smoothly combined scrape in the cooled chocolate, blending it to a smooth batter.
Divide between the 8 muffin cases each in one mug and put in the microwave.
"Bake" for one minute on high.
Labels: chocolate, cupcakes and muffins, recipe inside