Best and last of the season.......

Finally, the high pressure arrived giving us the best weather of the whole season. Blue skies and perfect snow conditions at last! This has to have been one of the poorest winters for getting out and about since we started coming out here for the season in 2001.

The good weather coincided with me using my new cross country skis for the first time. The skis are a bit shorter and wider than the old ones so they took a bit of getting used to - but I've persevered. The problem with this kind of skiing is that I find the skis are less stable and harder to control than downhill skis. Consequently I find myself feeling anxious and having the wobbles far more often than is necessary. At the end of the day I feel as though I've 'got away with it' again - until the next time! Great exercise though especially for my feet and arms which usually do quite a lot of the work.

{First time on the snow}

{Approaching the first corner....}

As the weather improved so did the snow pack so that the avalanche warnings lessened and I felt I could safely go out on the snow shoes. This involves a whole different set of muscles than skiing. By the end of a session my calves ache a little and I'm glad to finally stop the 'stomping'. I stick to well used routes as I'm usually on my own for this.

{Peaceful lunchtime resting my legs}

{Didn't risk this slope - I could see how unstable it was}

{Warning signs to help...}

The downhill skiing in the past ten days has been particularly good. Longer days mean brighter sunshine and the views are magnificent. We have had to start earlier so that when the snow softens we can come home. Old legs don't really like soft snow conditions! Much too much like hard work.

{At the top of a tow at Ceillac}

{Blue sky and snowy mountain tops.....perfect!}

Packing up to come home to Scotland now. I'm going south first though for a bit of a recce of the area around Greoux les Bains in Provence. There's an HF lead coming up for me there in April and I'm going to have a look at some of the walks I'll be doing. If I can, I'll post some of the routes here.

All good training for the Challenge in May!

Just visiting.............

For a long time I've harboured a desire to visit the Islands off the west coast of Scotland so when I saw an advert for the Harris Mountain Festival I made a decision to go along. There was no charge for the walks offered and there was a good deal on accommodation at the Scaladale Centre. Travel wouldn't be a problem - I could use my bus pass to get to Ullapool then use the ferry as a foot passenger to Stornoway.

I dreamed of blue sky, golden beaches and wild mountain places. Mmmm!

The travelling was a doddle although the grave warnings of gale force winds sent me running to Boots to buy some anti-travel sickness pills for the ferry - boats not being my favourite way to go - especially those that go up and down and round.......

While waiting for the delayed ferry in Ullapool I took one of the pills and then watched a couple of harbour seals popping their heads up in the bay - obviously also waiting for the ferry to arrive.

There was a good deal of up and down and round but I kind of dozed my way through it all. I was briefly fascinated by my co-travellers. Two ladies knitting, a group playing cards and others laying flat out on the seats covered by coats, sleeping. I suspected they may have been the frequent travellers.

{Finally arriving in Stornoway - the bus station}

{Heb Hostel, Stornoway}

Stornoway was wild, wet and windy but I found a warm welcome at the Heb Hostel. The next bus towards Tarbert wasn't till the next day - giving me time in the morning to take a different bus to the standing stones at Callanish. It was an awe-inspiring place so I spent quite a long time wandering around the stones, although by the time I came to take a couple of pictures there were quite a few people doing the same thing making it difficult to get just the stones in the frame.  Eventually I hid from the wind in the cafe hugging a cappuccino until my bus back to Stornoway was due.

{Main circle of stones at Callanish}

{More standing stones at Callanish}

When I finally arrived at Scaladale there were two other walkers already staying for the Festival. A stroke of luck for me as I discovered that moving around on the island without a car was going to be really difficult. Both of the ladies came from Yorkshire and I thoroughly enjoyed their company during the few days we shared. One of them was interested in the TGO Challenge and has since emailed me to say she's ready to send off her application for 2014! I feel like a missionary.....

I had a short walk up behind the Centre, with great views between the showers over Loch Seaforth. The sudden squalls were accompanied by strong, cold gusts of wind.

{The Scaladale Centre}

{Information board behind the Centre}

{The view from the top}

The walk the next morning was advertised as an 'Eagle Walk'. The assembly point was the car park at Bhiogadail, not far from the Centre, and I had been prepared to walk back along the road to it but gratefully accepted a lift from my two new friends. Quite a big group set off and we scanned the sky for Golden Eagles. The ranger led us to the bealach and then up hill to a small top over looking Loch Langabhat. The storm was still lingering and despite the wind we did get a couple of good sightings of large birds of prey.

{Bird watching....}

{View of Loch Langabhat}

The evening was spent in Tarbert listening to the first time Chris Townsend had delivered his Scottish Watershed Walk talk. Brilliant photos, but the route itself looked very hard.

Until I met the ladies with their car I had been going to miss the thursday walk as there was no way to get there on a bus. Fortunately I was delivered to the start point which was beside the beach at Scarasta. Without a path and sploshing through some very wet pools, the group climbed to the top of Meabhal. There were great views from the top and a trig point for the young ones to play on!

{Trig point on Meabhal}

By the time we had had lunch and descended back to the beach car park the sun was out. At last the blue sky and the golden beaches!

{The beach at Scarasta}

On the way back to the Centre we took a detour to the beach at Losgaintir, wandering through the dunes, looking across the sound to Taransay.

{View from Losgaintir beach}

The beautiful weather didn't last long and by the next morning the heavy mist, wind and rain were back. I ditched plans for the hill above Tarbert and took the bus all the way to Leverburgh. I had planned to walk along to the old Chapel and get the later bus back. Getting off the bus was difficult, the wind was so strong it nearly took my legs from under me. I wandered about for about 8 minutes, then, as the original bus was still there, I hopped back on, to the amusement of the driver and went back to the Centre!

{Windswept Leverburgh}

Next morning I made my way back, eventually, to Aberdeenshire - where it appeared to have been a lovely sunny and warm week. My island adventure was done.

Till the next time.................................

Just us.......

After the Christmas holidays things get quiet around here. The small village ski resorts we go to don't get very busy except during the February school holidays and they don't have enough beds for huge numbers of tourists. So our first week of skiing has been without any queues for tows or chairlifts and some gorgeous well-groomed slopes. The weather has been kind too. Blue sky and sunshine......

{Saturday afternoon at Molines - coffee time}

Most of the resorts now have at least a couple of snow cannon to augment the natural snow fall. There was a  reasonably big dump of snow in December and the temperatures have been quite low - so a good base is there.

{From the top at Arvieux}

The advantage of skiing on an empty piste is the freedom to turn or stop whenever and wherever you like - it's a great privilege! My arm/shoulder has been reasonably ok with the extra exercise. Just a bit of an ache in the evening. There are two major worries - if I fall or get bumped and getting on and off the poma lifts. I can do the lifts with my left arm (just) although I've had to adjust my balance a little.

{Last run - down another empty slope!}

The biggest pleasure has been the prevalence of  DAYLGHT which was sadly lacking in Scotland.

A 'proper' walk......well, almost......

My arm seems to be healing a bit and is now more comfortable - although still prone to severe aching from time to time.

It seemed time to go further afield and try a 'proper' little walk. We set off to Briancon and then into the Val Claree.  During the summer holidays the road is difficult with narrow old villages to get past on-coming vehicles and limited parking areas. We drove as far as Rubion where the road is closed off and a shuttle bus runs up to Nevache during July and August. We parked by the bus stop but wandered into the village instead.

It was a pleasure to see flower-filled Alpine meadows where last winter I was cross-country ski-ing.

A small hotel/bar provided us with lunch although the service was slow it was friendly and the food worth the wait.

After that we went up and over the Col de l'Echelle. Despite its name the way up was gentle and easy - down the other side a bit more precipitous with several hairpin bends and a couple of tunnels through the rocks. This was the first time in 12 years we'd taken this road.

Eventually we reached our destination - a small car-park in the Vallee Etroite (Narrow Valley). The little walk would take us to a small lake - Lago Verde (Lac Vert or Green Lake). This valley seems to be undecided whether it is in France or Italy. The notices and road signs were in Italian but the architecture and most of the other visitors were French. Might be to do with the War?

{Setting off towards the Refuge}

Our friends (Maryann and Jeff) had suggested this trip and just as we turned a corner, before reaching the Refuge, we were astonished to bump into them - they were just coming down from Mount Thabor  - so an unplanned coffee break was in order! The prices were definitely Italian - 1 euro for a coffee!

{First stop - coffee break}

The valley is absolutely beautiful with high rocky sides and a river at the bottom. As is usual in these parts any walking paths were well signposted. I had chosen to wear my Columbia walking sandals - they're really grippy and comfortable. The whole walk should probably take just over an hour - but it would have to be at half speed for me.

{Easy walking with Mount Thabor in the distance}

I decided to keep going along the easy track but was prepared to go back if things became too steep or difficult. We crossed a small stream on stepping stones and then walked down towards the river where there was a bridge.

{Across the river}

Almost there, but suddenly I felt less confident - ahead was a steeper track winding up a well-worn hillside. Not so good! I persuaded John to go on to take a photo of the lake and I found a large rock to sit on and wait. The going up would have been OK but the coming back down looked a bit more challenging - with loose rocks and sandy soil and I couldn't risk a slip or worse, a fall. He returned after about 25 minutes and confirmed that it was more than I could have felt comfortable with - and that the lake was truly green!

{Lac Vert}

We took a different path back making a circular walk of it. There were some places I had to use his helping hand for security on little descents but through the forest was definitely cooler and we were soon back at the van.

There are plenty more walking routes in the area to explore and once my arm is more useful I'll certainly go back and try some of them. With the camper van, we will be able to spend a couple of days there. There are  bike routes too.

It was such a relief to get out; I think I was smiling for the rest of the evening!

A mystery solved.........................

On the way to Briancon we have been driving past a big shiny metal structure since we arrived here just before Christmas. A notice board is beside it - so a couple of days ago we went to have a proper look.

As it's not far from the enormous Edward Whymper statue we thought it might be another sculpture. But not a very good one....

{A new sculpture?..............}

An information board told us all about it in rather complicated French. A rough translation was made.

The electricity line to this area of the Durance Valley was last upgraded in the 1930s. To keep up with modern demands a new one is needed. It cannot all be undergrounded and so new pylons will be erected to carry the high-voltage cables over ground.

Mindful of environmental concerns and as it will be in the National Park area, a new 'architect' designed pylon is to be used. The board explains that the new ones will be 'almost' invisible from 300 m away.

{The information panel}

Someone has already scrawled comments over it questioning the figures used.

The new pylon design has been named the 'Haute Durance' and will be used in 'sensitive' areas. There's no indication of how the lines will be attached linking one pylon to the next or how many there will be.

Well, you can't see it very well if you screw your eyes up and squint through your eyelashes............................

The wind factor................

We took our sandwiches and our ski stuff to Arvieux. The sky had cleared and it was looking promising. At the almost empty carpark we hesitated - it looked a bit chilly and there were snow-devils.......not a good sign! So we ate our lunch without getting out of the van.

Lunch over - a decision had to be made. While I pretended to get my boots and helmet on, John went round the corner to look at the pistes. He soon returned; it was so windy he felt it was trying to rip his jacket off his back. I stopped pretending to put on my stuff, and got back in the van. Door firmly shut again, we decided to go and have a wee walk instead. You're dealing with fair weather skiers here!

We drove through thick spindrift and more snow-devils back to Embrun. A walk round a frozen plan d'eau seemed to fit the bill. Looking up to the mountains it appeared they were on fire, there was so much snow lifting in the wind. These are quite unusual conditions for the mountains here - although quite familiar in the Scottish hills.

{Plan d'eau at Embrun with Les Orres in the distance}

We completed the loop around the lake and then went to get a hot chocolate at the supermarket cafe.

The good news today is that my TGOC route has been vetted. I've had favourable comments from my vetter, Ian Shiel. He's also given me a couple of bits of information which I didn't have about the route I've chosen. Thank you, Ian!

Slipping and sliding......

After a night of wet snow the road was frozen to a kind of choppy ice-rink. We set off gingerly to walk to the van, which due to the snow forecast we had parked more off the road than usual, allowing the plough to get past.

{Not good for driving - or walking!}

I had had to put on my microspikes and John's new 'stabilicers lite' were getting their first outing! Both enabled us to make a safe passage across the ice. Then, as we backed onto the road in the van we hoped the neighbour (Sylvie) wasn't going to appear round the corner - of course, she did! However, all was 'cool' and we were invited to her birthday 'soiree' in the evening!

{White roads all the way to Molines}

We had a good time skiing at Molines/St.Veran where they have installed a new chairlift replacing two rather ancient drag lifts. The new lift has one of those 'magic carpet' starts which is rather alarming especially as the chair comes quickly at your legs and knocks them away forcing you to sit down! I have a bruise to prove it!

One of the downsides of the chaotic leaving of the house had been that I had somehow forgotten the sandwich bag - so it would have to be lunch out again!

'Sorry, the pizza's off' meant another plate of chips for me - it's a hard life!

{Chips - again!}

Gone with the wind..............

After a bit of a risky journey (involving icy lumps) on my way to meet up with Louise for a walk on the Revack Estate last week, we wisely decided to abandon our planned walk for this week. It was a good call. After a bright start on Wednesday morning the weather began to deteriorate. First there was a heavy wet blizzard and then the wind started to blow.

The forecast for Thursday and Friday was dire. As the wind howled around the house here the electricity went off, fortunately for us only for about an hour, followed by no Radio 4! On Friday morning, after rather a sleepless night listening to the noises coming from outside, a phone call confirmed that the Friday walkers Christmas lunch was postponed.  I still had to drive to Banchory for a dental appointment. At the garden gate I had to clamber over an unexpected obstacle..............

Fortunately the branch hasn't done any damage but it has blocked the path. We've managed to arrange for someone to come on Monday morning to give us a quote for removing it. It's far too big for us to cut up with our little chain saw.

This wind made the storm in May during the TGO Challenge seem tame! The wild weather and consequent thoughts of how difficult it would be to camp out in it reminded me of the first book I remember reading by myself as a 5 or 6 year old. Noddy and Big-Ears were left lying under the stars when their tent blew away!

{First published in 1953}

At the end of the story minus tent, no money left and a little car that isn't feeling very well, Noddy sings a song.

"How nice it is to go away

And have a lovely holiday;
And yet although it's fun to roam,
It's even better coming home,
Coming home -
Coming home -

It's really LOVELY coming home!"

Hot chocolate by the fire, I think....................

More from Moganshan Mountain..........

{Looking down Moganshan village to the market area. Under the arches we found local women selling huge bags of mushrooms they had collected in the forest along with large bottles of the best soy sauce you've ever tasted!

{One of the local praying mantids}

{Crossing a very deep ravine on a beautifully constructed rope bridge}

{Walking down to the Lodge}

{This, I think, was some kind of fungus - but I might be wrong!}

{At Chairman Mao's country retreat - his bedroom on show}

{Stretching our legs, long and short, at the motorway services}

{An amazing potted plant outside the Lodge}

{An interesting rock formation on one of the walks}

{A spider on its web beside a lamp-post - I'm glad it wasn't in the bath!}

Escaping to the mountains................

After a few more days of exploring the shopping malls and markets of Shanghai Mr. Xu took us all (Grannie, Grandad, Mum, Dad, a five year old and a one year old) to stay on Mogashan Mountain for a long weekend.

The area was popular with missionaries and western settlers in the early part of the 20th century. Mountain retreats were built, along with churches and hotels, to escape the heat and turmoil of the city. Many of the buildings have been refurbished and after a period of use during the Chinese Cultural Revolution are now available for rent for holidays. The area has become a National Park area and still often frequented by the Shanghai expat community.

We arrived to find our little house in the bamboo forest. There was no vehicular access so everything had to be carried uphill through the woods.

The area is mostly bamboo forest with steep stepped paths and spectacular waterfalls. Unfortunately the whole long weekend was misty and quite cold but also very enjoyable. The kitchen in the house was less than adequate so we walked down to the village every evening to have our dinner.

Spending a few days out of the city was a great idea. Fresh air smells very good. We all managed plenty of short walks and the only thing missing was the view.

The walks were well sign-posted and scattered in the woods were pagodas and old temple buildings.

We ate most of our meals at The Lodge which is in Moganshan village and seemed to be frequented mainly by expats but was warm and cosy and sold good coffee. There were a few hotels also in the village to which the Chinese bus-parties went.

The weather, of course, improved on the morning we had to leave and drive back to Shanghai. Mr. Xu arrived just after lunch.

I don't remember much about the trip 'home', I think I slept most of the way....along with the rest of the family.....