Vogue 8648 - Muslin

I have been enjoying my Craftsy Couture Dress Class with Susan Khalje immensely.

She is an excellent instructor, and I just love learning new tips!  Personally I like the couture process of hand stitches, basting, careful manipulation and complete control.  It brings order to a chaotic world and helps me calm down.  I appreciate that it is not for everyone, which is fine.  Hopefully there is room for everyone at the sewing table:)

This is my muslin for Vogue 8684.  One of the suggested patterns for the class

I made very few alterations initially to the pattern outside of my fba.

I like using my above bust measurement as the starting point and comparing that to the full bust on the pattern.  This generally provides the more secure fit that I prefer.

In this instance though it did require that I give myself more room all around..sigh. But if I had gone up one size it would have been to wide at the shoulder, so it all works out and this is the advantage to making your muslin.

I released the side seams 1/2" on both sides, but then took out a scant 1/4" on the skirt front princess seams.

  

The back princess seams were let out that same scant 1/4" from the hip line down to the hem.

I used my dress form for this initial fitting and look forward to seeing how they transfer to my actual body.

I will say its a dream for seeing proportion and balance.

This piece of merlot silk dupion is a possibility for this dress.  

Someone just might invite me to a cocktail party or wedding and I think this might be suitable.

Wouldn't it be nice to have a dress in my closet, ready to go, for just such a possibility?

I am currently playing with what grain lines I want to employ on this garment.  If I put the entire garment on the cross grain the slubby texture will run the length of my body.  The pattern calls for all of the side panels to be on the bias and I am not sure yet how I feel about this.  I do love the way the bias works but will I like the way it looks?  I am kind of leaning in that direction just because it sounds fun, but what it really sounds like is that its time to play with the fabric some, and take some more pictures:)

Any thoughts dear readers?

The Spitzen tote

Spring has kept me busy:)  How about you?

 One of the accomplishments for June has been these totes.

I call these Spitzen totes.  Spitzen is German for little bits and these totes are made from "little bits" hanging about the shop.  

This particular tote was made for a young girl I know whose favorite color is red and will be used to get her Bible and songbook to meetings easily and fashionably:)  It is always fun sewing for others, so much love and good intentions get sewn into every seam and it helps me to reflect on all the beautiful quality's I admire in that individual.  While sewing for Cherie I thought about her ready smile, her hugs and exuberance, her girlish sweetness....it's good to be young.

This tote is a little more subdued and will be posted in my Etsy shop for sale.

Each tote is unique, different fabrics trims, and embellishments which makes sewing them up so enjoyable.

The handles are rolled for strength and comfort. 

The tote measures 11" x 7" x  3"

The back has a pocket and the lining has a divided pocket on one side perfect for holding your phone, gum, lipstick, wallet etc.  

This is a Williams Studio 2 pattern developed a few years back for my "learn to sew" series.  This pattern teaches you the basics of crazy quilting and lets you explore many of the fancy stitches on your machine.  The possibilities are endless and they do make great gifts.

These are two more examples of the Spitzen tote, which I thought I would throw in.  The tote on the left is made from woolens, and I use it during the winter months and the tote on the right is my current favorite.  The rose on the front is thread painted and tacked on to add dimension and fun.

Both of these were originally done as class samples.

UFO Progress report - Indigo Junction Jacket IJ741

 Something has come over me....I find myself once again committing myself to new projects!

How does this happen when clearly I have plenty of unfinished projects to keep me busy...quite busy.

My new schedule is allowing me more time to sew...but let's not get carried away Lynne

Maybe an intervention is in order.

When last we left this project it looked very ...very similar to this, but there has been some progress.

The hem is complete.

If you look closely you can now see the sashiko stitching in silk thread up the center back.

I have also made progress on the other sleeve.

The hand quilting is completed.

I accomplished this by basting the wool and silk layers together ( long white thread)

Marking 1" lines with a chalk wheel 

Then I did a hand quilting or running stitch.

This does not take as long as you think it will....really:)

I am careful to not do my running stitch to close to the seam line because I will need room to press the seam open once it has been machine sewn.  I pin the silk lining out of the way because I don't want to catch it in the seam.

After my seam is sewn I press it open using a seam stick.  This prevents me from pressing a crease in the silk lining.

Once the seam has been pressed open I can lay the silk over the seam and hand stitch it closed.

I will do this tonight while watching Downtown Abbey.

I will also fix this little annoyance...

Do you see how the hem is uneven....Argh.  This is a basic pattern mistake which really rather irritates me.  It's also a rather common mistake. 

But what irritates me more is that I let it get this far....why?

When I trued up the pattern, I did not fix it...and this is something I specifically look for!

When I sewed up my cuff all I needed to do was trim it even with the front hem before I hand bound the hemline!  Each time I encountered this issue I just kept thinking " Oh for goodness sake Lynne, lighten up, its a bed jacket"  Ah yeah, a bed jacket I will be spending many many many hours on.  

If your going to do something....do it to the best of your ability.

Clearly this needs to be fixed especially since I didn't let it get this far on the other cuff - lol

So tonight..while watching Downtown Abbey this will be ripped back to the point where I can make it right.

Do you ever see a problem coming and do nothing to prevent it from becoming a bigger problem?

Why? 

 Will I ever stop this?  

Please share your similar experiences with me..

I need to know I am not the only one who pursues such a foolish course. 

UFO Progress Pos t- Indigo Junction Jacket

This is the simple Indigo Junction Pattern that launched my less then simple Bed Jacket.

I have made some progress on it since we last saw it listed as a UFO from August 2011

Of course this was done back in August when after tracing the pattern onto Pattern Ease I pinned it together for a test fitting.  This is not something I normally do as I have not found it a reliable means of fitting, but I thought that with a loose, soft jacket it would suffice.

I of course had to shorten the length of the sleeve which I did above the cuff point.
I created a narrower fit through the back waist, and took some of the swing out of the front.
I also decided to taper the hem a touch, so that it sweeps a bit to the back.

The recent progress I have made is:

1- completing the needle felting and embroidery on both cuffs.

2 - hemming and attaching the cuff to the sleeve

3 - Sewing the shoulder seams and binding them with silk

4 - Have begun finishing the hem by wrapping the lining to the right side and doing a hand applique stitch to secure.

This is the glass button I will be using for the front closure.  A stellar find at MJ Trims.

hand quilting on jacket with hem at top of screen

This is the inside back of the jacket.

If you look closely you can see the hand quilting which holds the silk lining to the Angora/wool face fabric.

As hard as I tried I could not get a good picture of this from the outside, as it is very subtle.  

The hand stitching is done in a silk thread and the pattern runs up the center back and I repeated part of the motif on the front lapels.  

The rest of the body is channel stitched at 1" intervals

This sleeve still needs it channel quilting.  Fortunately it is the only garment piece that still requires this.  Once the sleeve layers are quilted together the cuff will get attached and then the sleeves will be ready to set:)

I am still deciding how I want to do the buttonhole as well as finish the center front and lapel edge.  

I am also considering adding a bit of a mandarin collar as well, because I am always cold and having something on my neck seems to help.

Victorian Bodice Thrift Store Find

Late this summer I stopped by a local thrift store, one which I have not been into for years, to shop for vintage sewing items.  Upon walking into the dust and gloom( very grandma's attic like) I spotted this brown silk taffeta Victorian bodice!!

Warning! This post is very photo laden, so it may take time to load, but if you are a fan of Historical dress I hope you will find it well worth the wait :)

 Simple and so lovely.

It measures 34" at the bust and 25" at the waist, 12" across the back

All of the latest fashion with it's origami folds has nothing on these Victorian forerunners.

After doing some research I would place this Cuiraisse style bodice from about 1880.  

The fan detail here on the back suggests that the skirt that originally went with this bodice had a slim front with back bustle. 

 Similar to the picture below of Lumina Garnier

Photo courtesy of  Garnier Family Photo collection

Are you ready for the detail shots?

The bodice has 18 shell and metal button.  Very difficult to photograph I might add.  

The cut silver disc sits on top of what appears to be black mother of pearl which has a fluted edge.

3 of the buttons are missing :(

Sleeve cuff detail  on the 3/4 length sleeve.

The pleating/folds which would lay over the bustle.

The hand worked buttonholes which are more then half covered by the front tucks.

The interior is flat lined with brown twill and has one bone along the center back seam which extends past the waist. The inside placket piece closes with hooks and eyes at the waist.

you can see the selvage edge of the fabric along both center fronts. 

The seams appear to be machine sewn and hand overcast.

This shows a the intricacies of the back pleats/folds

I picked out a few stitches at the top of the bone casing to reveal the type of boning used. 

I believe its reed but have not confirmed this.

A final shot of the interior with the price tag still attached.  

The inside of the collar shows some loose threads which suggest that lace was sewn in at one time or perhaps a velvet ribbon?  Nothing similar at the sleeve cuff which could have been a possibility there.

This bodice still needs to be cleaned which I am still doing research on but I am thinking of making a skirt to go with it, so that it can be properly displayed.

For all my blogging friends who have a passion for historical clothing I would welcome any suggestions and information you would be willing to provide on its proper restoration.

If there are any other pictures or info you would be interested in, in regards to this bodice please feel free to ask.

 I will be happy to oblige:)