Neon Polar Bear Nova Coat

I'm a little embarrassed about this one. I already made one coat this year, my Moonrise Kingdom coat. It's awesome, a dream come true, I'm so happy with it...but I almost immediately made another coat. Actually, it was a coat sandwich with lingerie in the middle. Anyway.

I blame Josie at LA Finch Fabrics for this one. Not my inability to control my fabric shopping. Wool is my weakness, especially affordable wool that is high quality. When Josie stocked these teddy French Terry wools, I tried to resist. The pink! The black! It would make such a good coat! And then I finally bought the Nova Coat pattern (I can't remember why...probably saw yet another cool one on IG). I knew the FT and the Nova would be a perfect match. 

But white? I live in the country, have three kids and four pets. Why did I buy white?

Well. I had this idea. White plus NEON. A neon pink lining. Neon green piping along the interesting seam lines of the Nova. Wouldn't that be cool?? And so I got online to order the coating and low and behold, Josie had just stocked a pretty coral rayon challis that was on sale. It all came together, what else was I supposed to do but give in to the idea?

To prep the wool, I talked to some other sewists who had bought it. I decided to dampen the fabric with a spray bottle, then put it into my dryer on low heat with some wet towels. It did shrink a few inches with that very simple treatment (and maybe 10 minutes on high heat before I remembered to do low). Buy extra and prep it!

I will describe this fabric more as a boucle than a French Terry. It has a nice stretch and heft. I've seen some people make tops with it, but for me that would be too bulky. I like it for a coat, personally. Just keep it FAR away from velcro (ask me how I know).

The Nova Coat comes in 5 sizes. I measured into a 2 for the bust and a 3 for the hips. The pattern pieces are unusual and I did a lot of head scratching about how to grade out. Then I realized, there is a gajillion inches of ease and I don't need to grade. Honestly, I could probably make a size 1 and it would fit too. This one is a straight size 2 without mods.

This coat came together really quickly, as far as coats go. I even had to spend extra time basting the piping in and it was still fast. The directions were great. I only got confused once, with the mitered corner on the inside, but I kinda just pinched it out until it looked right. I don't think I've ever had a coat lining sit so smoothly inside a shell as I did this one (granted, it might be because the rayon challis grew so there isn't any pulling). If you use this fabric, I would recommend a walking foot just because of the bulk. My walking foot didn't cooperate well with the piping (the foot is too wide) so I had resort to a regular or even zipper foot. The walking foot was better.

The sleeves are finished with a facing and the lining is sewn to the facing. I LOVE this method in coats and used it for my Yuzu Raglan, I'm not sure why more patterns don't do it this way.

This patch thing is wonky AF not CUTE AF

I used a leopard print faux fur as my neckline facing. It doesn't match the rest of the coat, at all. It's totally ridiculous. But I think we've already established the ridiculousness of this coat in general. Don't tempt me to do something cool with a small facing, I'll do it and laugh at myself for years.

This Nova is super cozy and fun to wear. I will do my best to keep in clean but my expectations are low. I will also stop making coats...this year...maybe...

Lightweight Morgan Jeans

Happy February! Or, as I like to call it, Birthday Month. My oldest daughter and myself both have birthdays this month. To counteract the fact that February is the worst month for a birthday, we just celebrate for weeks on end. Sounds about right.

I've been on a pants-making kick lately, with two dressy pairs of pants (unblogged so far, sorry!) and a pair of Morgan Jeans. I finally came to terms with the fact that I did not in fact need a 3,000th Union St. Tee, and that having only two pairs of pants that fit might be a problem.

One of my Make 9 for this year was a pair of stretch Morgan Jeans. The pattern is drafted for non-stretch denim, and that's what I used for my first pair. But I was frustrated by the amount of Morgan Jeans I saw on IG that had a slimmer, IMO more flattering fit, and I realized they MUST all be made with a stretch denim. I already had some fabric set aside but then stumbled on this super lightweight, very stretchy, perfect color denim at Hobby Lobby.

I know this fit is bad, keep reading!

I don't usually buy fabric at Hobby Lobby, in fact this was my first time. The price was reasonable (and on sale) and despite only 2% spandex there was a great amount of stretch. I took a chance and I'm pretty satisfied so far, although time will tell about the quality.

I made a size 8 with the same changes as my previous pair (a wedge from the yoke and shortening the legs), but I had to hack at the waistband quite a bit to get it even close to fitting. I think I need a size 8 hip and something like a size 4 waistband. Because of the shape of my body (swayback but with a mama pooch) it's tricky to snug up the waist without making it too tight. I found that taking small darts all over provided the best fit, BUT caused the grainline on the waistband to be all kinds of wonky. Parts of it were basically on the bias, which made it stretch out, which was the opposite of what I wanted. Add to that the lightweight nature and these are just plain loose.

I have a third pair cut out (I will solve this puzzle damnit!) which has a four-piece waistband. There will be seams at CB and the side seam to help me fit but also keep the grainlines from getting crazy. I also plan to interface the waistband AND the facing to keep the shape. Fingers crossed that helps. I also noticed that the yoke pieces are cut differently than they are on the Ginger Jeans. I think that made them stretch more than necessary and I will also change that on my next pair.

For now, I can wear a belt or just lean into the saggy plumber look. When spring hits I may narrow and shorten the legs because I think that looks cuter. Again, that's not something I could do with a non-stretch denim. I liked the raw, frayed edge of my cut fabric right off the bolt, so I went with that look on my finished pants. I sewed a single line of stitching at the hem to halt the unraveling. I did use a regular weight grey thread for all the topstitching because I could not get the tension to behave on my vintage Singer.

I finished the waistband facing with bias tape instead of pressing it in and catching it with my topstitching. I hardly ever do a good job with that and I like the way the bias tape looks. The pocket fabric is from Stone Mountain and Daughter and I specifically ordered a 1/4 yard for making pocket bags. The fabric is super dreamy though and would make an amazing top.

I used a Kylie and the Machine label on one back pocket, and a scrap piece of pink leather on the back.

I originally installed a jeans button but it fell out when I washed the jeans. I went ahead and sewed a regular button on instead.  I do have an extra button on the fly placket because these are a teensy bit smaller than what the pattern intends.

Despite the fit issues, I do find myself reaching for these over and over. I love how lightweight they are compared to other denim I've bought, and they're super soft. I may find myself wandering back over to Hobby Lobby and picking up some more of this fabric.

Last but not least, my sweatshirt is another one of my Make 9 items! This is a second French terry Pinnacle Top. I've been wearing my first one TO DEATH and now I am thrilled to have a second in the mix. I'm not sure of the fiber content of this fabric, I bought it at a store in Indianapolis called The French Seam. It was a designer overstock and although I found her line at Anthropologie, I couldn't find this fabric. In any case, it's also lighter weight than other French terry and the color is dreamy. Yes, I'm rocking a blue-on-blue look here but I think the flowered shoes break it up nicely ;)

Papercut Patterns Palooza Part 3: Soma Swimsuit

Here we are, the last entry in my Papercut Patterns Palooza! You be the judge of whether or not I saved the best for last, because I love my Pinnacle Tops and Pneuma Tanks just as much as my Soma Swimsuits.

Like the other Papercut patterns, the Soma is packed with options. First up is View 2, a "bustier style" with pieces that form cups, and no back closure. I have a 33" bust and made a size XS. I think the fit is okay, but it would be better with an underwire, if I could figure out how to do that. Following Lauren at Lladybird's idea, I used two layers of swim lining for more padding/coverage. I'm not entirely happy with that decision, and if this wasn't a print you would be seeing a lot of wavy seams. It got super bulky.

Speaking of the print, it's amazing! The Fabric Fairy (my FAVE place for swim knits) stocked this Banana Leaves swim knit months ago and I tried to resist it. I told myself I didn't need another swimsuit this season (I already had the neon green swim knit that you'll see in a minute). But when I saw that fateful "Almost Gone!" on the website, I decided I had to have it. But alas, I waited too long, and it had sold out by the time I went to buy it. I frantically emailed Megan, the owner, and begged for any yardage she had left. They don't call her the Fabric Fairy for nothing! Megan let me know she had a 21" piece left and it was mine if I wanted it. I paired it with her suggested solid colored green, called Banana Leaf Green, and used that for the lining.

The instructions for the suit were excellent, although I recommend paying careful attention to your notches in order to properly construct the cups. I did not topstitch the seams because I was afraid of making them even more wavy, and I did follow Lladybird's other piece of advice, to burrito the triangle piece so that all seams would be fully enclosed. I'm not sure why that wasn't part of the directions, except that it was pretty tricky (not impossible).

The other change I made was to use extra straps to make the back look like a Pneuma Tank. I am posting the above photo despite my own hang-ups about how my post-three-kids body looks, because I do want to mention how cheeky the bottoms are. I have a size 38" hip which is between an XS and S so maybe they wouldn't be so skimpy if I had sized up instead of down.

I also wanted to make View 1, and had this neon green swim knit (from Mood) in my stash for a while. Full TMI disclosure: those are *not* my nipples showing through, even though it definitely looks like it. This view has a dart and I just did not get as smooth of a dart as I could have. It looks pointy and not really flattering. I also doubled up with this fabric and I think I should have used a proper swim lining instead, to make it more opaque in general (which is what I did on the bottoms).

I did insert cups into this suit, but once it was finished and I tested it out in our hot tub, it was stupidly obvious that there were cups. The fabric was even more sheer when wet. I ended up unpicking the underbust elastic and pulling out the cups.

Instead of using FOE under the bust, I used a thicker picot elastic. For visual balance, I used the same elastic on the waist of the bottoms, which did essentially raise the rise a touch (because I wasn't folding over and encasing elastic). The cut of the leg is the same, so they're still cheeky, but they are a bit taller. I did end up shortening the strap elastic to perfect the fit, but that will depend on your elastic. There is a sewalong and I believe it was there that I read how you should not over-tighten the straps, because that will cause the top of the triangle piece to collapse and not lay flat. So, it's a tricky part to balance.

I think the style lines on this view are super cool, especially the back, but this particular fabric is kind of a miss. I've generally had better results with swim prints than with solids, unless the solid is black. I think from now on I'll stick to prints, they just hide stuff better.

The fun part is, I still have one more view I could make with this pattern! I wish I needed 100 swimsuits but alas, just hanging out in my hot tub after the kids are in bed doesn't necessitate it. I enjoy making swimsuits and the majority of both of these were made on my regular machine with a zig-zag or three step zig-zag stitch. There is certainly a learning curve, but View 1 of this pattern would be a great intro suit.

Papercut Patterns Palooza Part 2: Pneuma Tank

Welcome back to Papercut Palooza, my attempt to catch up on all my Papercut projects that haven't yet made their way to the blog. Today, it's the Pneuma Tank!

The Pneuma is pretty unique and easily recognizable in the sewing world. This tank top has a built-in bra, a drapey overlay with open sides, and has elastic straps in a cool crisscross back. I've made two of these and cannot wait for the hot summer weather to be here for these!

I know I'm not the only one with super thin, lightweight knits in my stash. I always fall in love with them, and then never know what to make that can be so see-through. Until now! The Pneuma is absolutely perfect, because the bra is a feature of the tank and is meant to be seen. Doing tree pose on a tree (please tell me you've watched Free Solo and get that reference...), hiking through the woods, or just getting ice cream, this top is awesome.

I made a size XXS, which is typical for me in Papercut. However, I have wide hips and was concerned about keeping the proper drape, so I slashed and spread both the front and back pieces. I added a total of 2" of sweep at the hem. I did not hem the underarms or the bottom because lazy, but also because it would've been a nightmare on this lightweight rayon knit. The bra band was modified for 3/4" picot elastic, instead of 1" enclosed elastic, because that's what I had on hand. The straps are black bra strapping from Sew Sassy Fabrics.

The bra fabric is double brushed poly that I've had for years, and couldn't figure out what to do with it. I know it's become all the rage, but I honestly hate polyester. I can handle it in this small amount though!

The second version I made, I wanted to experiment with the hem, but I'm still not sure exactly how I want to finish it.

I straightened the side seams a bit compared to my previous version, so that the hem would be straight at the bottom instead of curved up. My idea was to add a band to the bottom, to prevent the top from floating down during exercise. But my rayon knit doesn't have good recovery, and I abandoned that idea.

The bra portion of this top is leftover banana leaves swim knit from The Fabric Fairy. I also made a swimsuit, which will be on the blog next week. The fabric is sold out, which is too bad, because it's amazing!

I again modified the bra elastic finishing to use what I had on hand that matched. I used picot elastic on the front and underarms. The straps are again from Sew Sassy Fabrics. The rayon portion is unhemmed like before. This top is a SUPER quick sew without the hemming.

What are you waiting for? Go buy this pattern!

Papercut Patterns Palooza Part 1: Pinnacle Top

Ever look at your pile of unblogged items and realize half of them are from one pattern company? Just me? I’m declaring April the month of Papercut Patterns. I have two Soma Swimsuits, two Pneuma Tanks, and two Pinnacle Tops to blog! So let’s get to it.

Somehow, I overlooked the Pinnacle Top when the pattern first launched. I don’t know how, because it’s 100% up my alley. I love dolman sleeves and geometric details. I also love versatile patterns, and this one can be made in a woven or a knit. A sweatshirt or a woven top from one pattern? Count me in!

Yes, I'm standing inside a tree. Apparently, there used to be a 

fence here (the barbed wire is in the bottom left 

corner of the photo!) and the tree grew around it.

First up is the woven top, which is View 1. This is a cropped shirt with short dolman sleeves and it has no closures. View 2 is the same top, but with a higher neckline and a tie opening in the back so it can go over your head.

I had saved an image on Pinterest that I fell in love with, and after lots of searching I realized this pattern was pretty darn close to it.

The shorts are coming too eventually, but we're not quite into shorts weather yet. The top came out so amazing and looks just like my Pinspiration. The fabric I used is Avery Slub Linen from La Mercerie and I have it in FOUR colors. It is THAT amazing. This rust-red colorway is super pretty, and a lot different from anything else in my wardrobe.

View 1 was actually my second version. First, I made the sweatshirt, View 3. I had some pink French terry in my stash that I had originally bought for a Brunswick muslin, but I was so excited about that pattern that I didn't muslin. This French terry is a cotton/poly blend from Jo-Ann's, and normally I would turn my snooty nose up at something like that. But, it has a decent amount of stretch and recovery, is lightweight, and has held up so far through LOTS of wear and washing.

I used the reverse side of the fabric, the loopy side, for the triangles, the neckband, and the sleeve cuffs, just for some visual interest. It would be super fun to use a contrast fabric for those pieces.

View 3 is the same as View 1, except it has a bottom band, longer sleeve, and sleeve cuffs. Both of my tops are size XXS, which still includes plenty of ease and seems to be my normal Papercut size.

The way the Pinnacle is constructed is pretty clever. There is no shoulder seam. The bodice/sleeve piece is one giant piece that folds over your shoulder. There is a simple center back seam, then you join the fronts using the triangle pieces. I found the directions to be great in explaining it all, but you should definitely baste to make sure your triangles match up correctly. Do keep in mind, because the bodice is one long flipped piece, you can't use a directional fabric for those pieces (which is probably why you don't see many prints if you search for images of this pattern).

View 1, the woven top, is finished with a facing and topstitching. I did not interface my facing because I was worried about affecting the drape of the top. That might have been a mistake as I do have some waves along the neckline, but they're minor. I think next time, I might use a walking foot to attach my triangle pieces. I didn't think about it until I was sewing, but those seam lines are on the bias and it can be easy to stretch them accidentally. The point of my V didn't come out super sharp but I'm not sure how noticeable it is.

Elephant in the room: View 1 is low-cut AND cropped. That's a lotta skin. I'm wearing a cami in my photos but that was more for warmth than modesty. All the bras I tried were visible without a cami. Naturally, that means I'm working on a bra to purposefully wear with this top. The fabric is SO dreamy that I want it near my skin, I don't really want a cami underneath, especially once the weather warms up. So stayed tuned to my IG for however that works out.

I love, love, love, love this pattern. I've been reaching for both of these tops in different situations, and I can't wait to make more!