Dinner by Heston, London

The BMW X5 and the BMW M3 Convertible are both excellent cars. Obviously made by the same manufacturer, should you wish, you could have one of each with matching sleek Azurite Black paintjob and a Champagne Novillo leather upholstery.

It may have become quickly apparent that I actually know very little about cars; otherwise I’d be quoting engine sizes and stuff about pistons, horsey powers and such like.

What I do know is that despite their similarities they are also very different – in looks, performance and, I guess, in overall driving experience.

I do, however, know a little about restaurants…

Like the ‘Beemers’, Dinner by Heston ‘The Willy Wonka of Molecular Gastronomy’ Blumenthal and The Fat Duck (see here) share obvious similarities:

They both serve amazing and tasty food for which they have been bestowed Michelin stars - Dinner with 1* and The Fat Duck with 3*

They’re both listed in the S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants - Dinner at No.9 and, the former number one, The Fat Duck currently at 13.

And (back to the cars) both have been awarded BMW Square Meal Awards – Dinner as the Best New Restaurant for spring 2011 and The Fat Duck, as the Restaurant of the Year for 2006.

They are also both very different… Dinner is a big, sleek and slick 126-cover restaurant in a 5 star London hotel – The Fat Duck is a charming 42-cover in the picturesque village of Bray on Thames.

To experience the full on wacky world of Heston that you may have seen on his fantastical TV shows then, I’d say, The Fat Duck is probably the place for you.

Dinner’s menu is different – it is based ‘a unique menu of *historically inspired British dishes’. Of course, at Dinner, some dishes still showcase Heston’s creative side (I’m thinking about the famed ‘Meat Fruit’) but overall I’d say the London restaurant is more about pure flavour.

(*Each dish is based on a traditional recipe from the annals of British cookery; the years of which are included on the menu in brackets.)

We went for lunch and opted for the set deal but supplemented it with dishes from the á La Carte (Meat Fruit and the Battalia Pye).

Lemon Salad (c.1730) Smoked artichoke, goats curd & candy beetroot: a light and summery salad - the artichokes were well smoked; the cheese was smooth, snowy white and lemony; the candied beets not too sweet and the leaves and shoots were fresh, crisp and bitter where needed… it’s hard to knock it but, for me, it didn’t have the wow factor that one would expect from a Heston dish.

Dressed Snails (c.1884) Parsley, beetroot, salty fingers & red wine juice: a delightfully autumnal dish - vibrant green parsley sauce; orange carrots; deep burgundy beetroot with more pops of colour from the cress of red-stemmed chard. I loved the synergy of the flavours, sweet beets; sweetly bitter charred and caramelised fennel with subtle salt bitter fronds of sea vegetables such as salty fingers, samphire and sea fennel.

Meat Fruit (c.1500) Mandarin, chicken liver & foie gras parfait, grilled bread: there is no doubting the Meat Fruit’s fun appearance and conceptual genius but I’m always concerned that such dishes will have a touch of the ‘Emperor's New Clothes’ about them – no need to worry here… my wife and I agreed, it was easily the most flavoursome liver parfait that either of us have ever eaten.

Battalia Pye (c.1660) Sweetbreads, lamb tongue, duck heart & pigeon: since eating, I have not stopped thinking about this ‘pye’ - this was without doubt one of the best dishes I have ever eaten. The rich jus was quite simply Carlos Slim rich! Pure alchemy! Pure genius!

Cured Salmon (c.1670) Beetroot, sea aster & olive oil: superb salmon with a subtle bergamot cure; charred baby leek; sautéed sea asters; micro red veined sorrel cress and a silkily indulgent oil rich beetroot purée.

Powdered Duck Breast (c.1670) Smoked confit fennel, potato purée & umbles: the powdered (spiced) duck breast was beautiful and the mash, marvellous; the jus was rich and glossy and the smoke on the fennel well gauged.

My one gripe would be the use of the plural form of umble over the singular - I did appear to be the only person sat within earshot that didn’t ask the waiter what ‘umbles’ were… knowing that the word which lies at the root of the phrase ‘To eat Humble Pie’ can refer to all sorts of tasty innards including lungs, kidneys, livers and alike I was a little broken hearted when all I received was one duck’s ticker sliced in twain!

Prune & Tamarind Tart (c.1720) Seemingly simple, it’s easy to underestimate the skill that goes into creating what can only be described as a tart of perfection: perfect pasty topped with perfectly set custard and a perfect caramelised caramel.

Orange Buttered Loaf (c.1630) Mandarin & thyme sorbet: this dish was all about flavour and texture – the sorbet, set on top of crunchy sugar crystals (possibly coated with Carnauba wax) had a wonderful citrusy tartness but it was the buttery, orangey brioche-like loaf coated in a crisp veneer of caramel that really impressed.

Like The Fat Duck, Dinner sports a wonderful tea menu. I selected a Gyokuro Green Tea from Uji, Japan – described as ‘sweet, soft with supple velvety textures and nourishing pea-cream flavours with umami complexities.’

Our meal ended with an Earl Grey flavoured Chocolate Ganache with a Caraway Sablé.

I’ll give the last words to Heston, “If it doesn't taste good it doesn't go on the menu.”

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The Fat Duck

Several years ago my stepson and his girlfriend went travelling. To cut a long story short he ended up working as a mixologist at one of the world’s premier bars, Der Raum in Melbourne, Australia (see here). Eventually, they settled in Singapore and he began working in the remarkable Tippling Club (here) alongside Chef Ryan Clift – since then he has gone on to set up The Cufflink Club (here) and is set to open his own venue – as you can imagine, his mother is very proud.

In July 2010, making a rare visit back to Blighty we wanted to take them for a special meal – where better for a talented mixologist with a passion for molecular gastronomy than the near mythical three Michelin starred The Fat Duck?

                          

Problem one: due to their busy itinerary, July 22^nd would be the only possible day. Problem two: we would need to book two months, to the day in advance, when the phone lines opened at 10am, which shouldn’t have been a problem, except for the fact that I had a job interview on that day and would be teaching a class of Year 4 children a lesson about ‘Relationships and dealing with feelings’. My feelings… Arrrggghhh!

My wife was also at work; but starting at 10am she proceeded to redial 422 times before eventually getting through to hear Alan Bennett reading from Alice's Adventures in Wonderland. When I got out from the interview at 12ish – her first question to me, “How did it go? Did you get the job?” My first question to her, “How did it go? Did you get a table?”

Problem three, I got the job… which meant I’d be finishing at my old school on July 23rd and would therefore have to make the 356 mile round trip in one night. With a table booked for seven, I managed to leave work a little earlier on the Thursday and we made the journey to Bray in good time (enough to be able stop for a drink at The Royal Oak, Paley Street and for another at Heston’s The Hinds Head with an accompanying Scotch Egg and some Devils on Horseback).

Five hours later (around midnight) we left The Fat Duck having enjoyed the greatest meal of our lives. In bed by 04:00; up at 07:00; a special leavers assembly held in my honour at 09:00 – imagine!

Simple question: Was it worth it? Simple answer: Yes (and then some.)

“My review?” Taking into account the fact that I had not started this blog and didn’t take any notes, there is nothing I can add that has not been written thousands of times before… except:

“Believe the hype!”

LIME GROVE
Nitro Poached Green Tea and Lime Mousse

JELLY OF QUAIL, CRAYFISH CREAM
Chicken Liver Parfait, Oak Moss and Truffle Toast

SNAIL PORRIDGE
Jabugo Ham, Shaved Fennel

ROAST FOIE GRAS
Gooseberry, Braised Konbu and Crab Biscuit

MOCK TURTLE SOUP (c. 1850)

"Mad Hatter Tea"

"SOUND OF THE SEA"

SALMON POACHED IN LIQUORICE
Artichoke, Vanilla Mayonnaise, Golden Trout Roe and Manni Olive Oil

POWDERED ANJOU PIGEON (c. 1720)
Blood Pudding, Potted Umbles, Spelt and Pickles

HOT & ICED TEA

TAFFETY TART (c. 1660)
Caramelised Apple, Fennel, Rose and Candied Lemon

THE "BFG"

Black Forest Gateau

Enjoying the (optional) Cheese Course

WHISK(E)Y WINE GUMS

"LIKE A KID IN A SWEET SHOP"

YELLOW YEA (optional)
Pre Rain Jun Shen (Imperial Mountain) Silver Needle

At the time of dining The Fat Duck was ranked as the Restaurant Magazine's 3rd Best Restaurant in the World (it has ranked as high as Number 1, in 2005).

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Hungry Hoss’ - Best of 2011

Inspired my Twitter friends ‘The Critical Couple’ and their ‘Best of 2011’ post (see here) I decided to put together my very own ‘Best of’ to create my ultimate dégustation.

For me, 2011 has been a seemingly nonstop fabulous foodist adventure and deciding which dishes belong on this menu was not an easy task. I have eaten some wonderful food at some amazing restaurants this year - my trip to Singapore was phenomenal (we hope to return in 2012) and the magical meal at Mozaic in Bali was momentous as the place where I decided to start this blog.

In May, Hungry Hoss was born. I find it hard to believe that I have had this ‘hobby’ for only nine months! Through the blog and my Twitter account I have met many good people who have supported, encouraged, inspired, advised, fed and entertained me.

Someone deserving a particular mention, as one of my biggest champions, is Franco (@sausagemaking). Not only does Franco regularly ‘re-tweet’ my posts to his foodie followers, his kind invitation to his @ChromaKnives Charity Supper Club (and subsequent events) remains one of the highlights of the year. At Franco’s, as well as meeting his lovely wife and family, I was fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of other foodie types, such as @ThomHetheringto(n), TV’s @GizziErskine and @GordoManchester  from @mcrconfidential.

Also present at the supper club, I’d like to thank for feeding me (and looking after me) on several occasions throughout the year (and I’m sure next year too) the 2011 MFDF Manchester’s Best Chefs, Mary-Ellen (@_aumbry) and @Laurence_Tott from Aumbry; Monica and Aj from @TheSpiceClub and the hugely talented @aidenbyrne and his partner @SarahBroadleyW from The Church Green.

At Franco’s I also met Niamh Shields (@eatlikeagirl) the author one of the UK’s leading food blogs and the fabulous cookbook Comfort & Spice. Other bloggers who I’d especially like to thank for their support this year are Alan (@sped98) who took the time early on to give me camera and picture advice; @FFTBYD for sharing local knowledge; @laissezfare for including me in his blogroll and supporting my work via re-tweets and, the aforementioned, @CriticalCouple for their inspirational posts.

So after much deliberating, I’ve managed to whittle the menu down to a reasonable fourteen courses:

Canapé: L’Enclume – a delicious Stichleton Sablé biscuit with a silky, smooth Avocado Crème (I have yet to complete my write up from my most recent visit to L’Enclume but I’ll be working on my ‘Top 3’ in the New Year!)

Amuse bouche: The Box Tree – bias aside, the Celeriac Espuma with Bacon Foam that I cooked whilst working at The Box Tree as ‘A Chef for a Day’ was simple, yet packed with flavour.

Bread: Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor – the bread selection at Simon Radley’s restaurant is second to none. Full sized breads in an amazing array of flavours: Sourdough; French Baguette; Stoneground Farmhouse; Bavarian Rye; Lancashire Cheese & Onion; Boddingtons & Mashed Potato; Fig & Walnut and Cottage Granary.

Vegetarian starter: Sketch – simply called Tomato this dish was so full of flavour. Having enjoyed Sketch so much, in 2012 we plan to visit Pierre Gagnaire’s eponymous 3-starred restaurant in Paris.

Fish starter: The Ledbury – such a light and summery dish, the Thinly Sliced Courgettes with Hand Picked Crab, Wakame Oil & Frozen Parmesan sums up our wonderful al fresco experience enjoying Bret Graham’s phenomenal two starred food in the sunshine.

Meat starter: James Lowe of The Young Turks – as part of The Fat Duck charity reunion meal at Aumbry, James’ Raw Hereford Rib with Oyster & Wild Watercress was one of the nicest things I’ve eaten all year. When I visit London in 2012, wherever James and his crew are cooking, I will be there!

Fish main: The Fat Duck – again, prepared at Aumbry as part of The Fat Duck charity reunion by Heston Blumenthal’s Head Chef Jonny Lake, the Sound of the Sea was every bit as good as I remember it at his three starred temple of gastronomy.

Meat main: Aumbry – served at the Chroma Knives Supper Club, the Slow Cooked Cumbrian Boer Goat, Pearl Barley, Cauliflower & Smoked Shallot was undoubtedly the star dish of the evening.

Meat main (2): Les Amis – Les Amis, in Singapore, is one of Asia’s and indeed the world’s most prestigious restaurants. The Chargrilled Wagyu Rib Eye cooked in hay, Sunchoke, Spinach & Sauce Périgourdint has to be considered my most supreme steak of 2011.

Cheese course: Le Gavroche – as well as visiting the International Cheese Awards at Nantwich this year, I have had some wonderful cheese boards in restaurants and found some great cheese shops and suppliers, such as the excellent Cartmel Cheeses (see here). Of all the cheese boards Le Gavroche’s was by far the most comprehensive and the Plateau de fromages included the wonderful Boulette d'Avesnes.

Pre dessert: Fraiche – one thing that I am certainly looking forward in 2012 is the publication of Chef Marc Wilkinson’s first cookbook; mostly because he assures me that it includes the recipe for his amazing signature pre dessert, the Lemongrass & Vanilla Panna Cotta with Sour Cherry.

Dessert: Aiden Byrne’s British Grill – of all the desserts I’ve had this year, Adien Bryne’s Triple Chocolate Mousse with Gingerbread & Warm Cherries may not be the most ground breaking or intricate; but what it lacked in terms of theatrics, it more than made up for in flavour! The gingerbread was simply perfection!

Petit fours: Café de Paris (Malaga) – brought out as part of the ‘tapas’ upgrade: a chocolate macaron; an iced orange bonbon, a sticky sweet financier; a passion fruit cheesecake and a dusted chocolate rock. All were great – my favourite the passion fruit, a great intensity of flavour.

The final decision is where to eat this perfect meal? Winning hands down, the paradisal lush, tropical gardens of Chris Salans’ Mozaic in Bali.

Here’s to 2012!

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