What do you think? Classic Dior or total bore?
Posts mit dem Label Haute Couture werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Haute Couture werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Mittwoch, 7. März 2012
Video: Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 12 by Bill Gaytten
What do you think? Classic Dior or total bore?
Sonntag, 18. Dezember 2011
Retrospective: Givenchy Haute Couture 'Eclect Dissect', F/W 1997/1998, by Alexander McQueen
'Eclect Dissect' was McQueen`s second collection for Givenchy.
It was shown in Paris Medical School in july 1997.
For this show McQueen`s art director Simon Costin imagined a fictional surgeon and collector who travelled the world collecting exotic objects and women, whom he took apart and reassembled in this laboratory.
The runway show staged the return of these murdered women who come back to haunt the living.
The models embodied their ghosts, dressed in the exotic garments collected by their murderer on his foreign journeys.
Scottish tartan, Spanish lace, kimonos, Burmese necklaces and eastern folk dresses decorated with feathers and stuffed animals merge to outfits with a morbid aura.
The analogy between the designer and the surgeon is obvious.
McQueen acts like a surgeon himself here, dissecting the traditional clothes and reassembling them.
The japanese Obi, for example, becomes a corset and the Kimono becomes a tight skirt.
McQueen`s reassemblage didn`t make the women seem like victims but as vengeful ghosts.
He always wanted to empower women with his fashion and I think he succeeds with this collection.
The mix of cultures is extended beyond fashion; the show also makes references to his own, british, culture (in the 19th century): the dissecting-reference to Jack the Ripper (who also influenced his graduation collection) and the 'women returning from the dead' motif from the Gothic Novel.
Information credit: Book: 'Fashion at the edge: spectacle, modernity and deathliness' by Caroline Evans. Pages 154 - 156.
McQueen is the only designer EVER to mix elements of Scotland, Spain and Asia - and it works! I love how the models act like victorian ladies, the Princess Leah hair and the Burka with the bird-cage on top! McQueen`s fantasy and courage to put traditional items into new contexts and mix cultures & times will be unrivalled for 100 years at least.
What is your favourite thing about this collection?
Sonntag, 11. Dezember 2011
Retrospective: Givenchy Haute Couture S/S 1997 by Alexander McQueen
This is Alexander McQueen`s debut collection for Givenchy, succeeding John Galliano.
It is inspired by greek antiquity and the collection is like a vision of his future work (for his own label). There so many familiar elements, which I will point out for you below.
Left: corset with ornaments as seen in Alexander McQueen F/W 07/08. Right: asymmetric one-shoulder top as seen in S/S 1998 and S/S 08.
Left: chiffon dress as seen in S/S 1998 and F/W 05.
Left: horns as seen in Alexander McQueen F/W 97/98. Right: skirt made of "fabrics-strings" as seen in F/W 03/04, body-armour as seen in F/W 00/01, F/W 07/08 and S/S 99.
Left: wings headpiece as seen in F/W 06.
Left: feather / wings cleavage as seen in S/S 08.
High stand-up collar as seen in S/S 03 and F/W 07.
"Capeish"-back as seen in F/W 00/01, S/S 07 and S/S 09.
Left: Hitchcock hair & 60s as seen in F/W 05. Right: Corset over clothes as seen in S/S 08.
Vines of flowers as seen in S/S 01 and S/S 07.
Left: cape as seen in F/W 00/01. Right: high-waist pants as seen in S/S 01.
Right: poity shoulders as seen in F/W 97/98 and S/S 08.
Classic costumes as seen in S/S 98, F/W 06/07 and S/S 07.
Left: feather dress as seen in S/S 09.
Right: suit as seen in S/S 98 and S/S 06.
Oversize hat as seen in S/S 07 and F/W 09/10.
Angel: reference to F/W 10/11.
How do you like the collection?
Where do "a designers signature style elements" end and where does copying oneself begin?
Sonntag, 7. August 2011
Retrospective: Christian Dior Haute Couture by John Galliano: F/W 2003 - Dancers (Make-up by Pat McGrath)
Part 2
Mittwoch, 27. April 2011
Video: Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture S/S 11
Isn`t it weird to see a show without music! I think this is the traditional way of presenting Couture though.
Dienstag, 15. März 2011
Mittwoch, 8. Dezember 2010
Video: Givenchy Haute Couture F/W 10/11
Dreams in white, gold and nude. Opulent details, lace, fringes and embroidery make these dresses look like a winter fairy-tale.
Mittwoch, 24. November 2010
Video: Valentino Haute Couture F/W 10/11
I`m not feeling the shoes (flat mules!?! Not only fugly but also unsafe to walk in!) but I`m very much feeling the short dresses, the ruffles, layers, the black and white, the see-through blouses, the bows and Valentino`s usual "overkill of feminity, tenderness & elegance". YAY for that!
Donnerstag, 28. Oktober 2010
Retrospective: Givenchy Haute Couture S/S 09
Oh I love this graceful & feminine collection! The round shapes, the drapery, the shoulders, the powder colours and the sleek, beautiful hair. So dignified and elegant!
