Finished: Arielle Skirt

As is often the case, not one but two of my favourite handmade skirts have had to be retired due to being thoroughly worn out. They were my beloved denim Ginger skirt and my navy-with-red-buttons Beignet. Both were made using Colette patterns during my first year of sewing and have been on constant rotation ever since, so they were well and truly worn to death. I needed to make replacements, and fast!

The shape and style of the Tilly and the Buttons Arielle Skirt seemed to be the perfect solution. And as there was now a denim-skirt-shaped hole in my wardrobe, I decided to make my version in denim. The fitted silhouette and cute button detail of the pattern also reminded me of my Beignet skirt, so I felt like I was channelling my two old skirts into one new one!

The instructions for the Arielle pattern are very clearIy written, with good, explanatory photos to guide you through the process. Unlike the Beignet pattern, it didn't take very long to sew at all (I made it over the course of two afternoons) and there are very few pattern pieces, especially if you make the unlined version. The side seams are contoured to fit around your waist and hips, making the skirt very close fitting - using a stretch denim was definitely a good move as it really does yank you into place! Size-wise, I made a size 3 and the only adjustment I made was to the length - I took about 10cms from the length of the longer version. I didn't adjust the waist and hips at all and the finished fit is great. I think it's an ideal pattern for a confident beginner to tackle, perhaps as a second skirt project.

The fabric I used is a stretch denim in a very dark blue from Ditto Fabrics. I pre-washed it, but it still feels quite stiff - hopefully it will soften up after a few washes. Because of this, the overlapped front edge doesn't lie completely flat, but that's just me nit picking. My version is unlined as that's what I've always done with denim skirts (I think of them a bit like jeans!) I would also normally use a lighter weight fabric for the facings to reduce bulk, especially when sewing with denim. In this case, however, I did actually use denim facings and I think the skirt benefits from the extra support. 

I'd planned to simply overlock the outer edge of the facings, but once I saw this post on finishing a facing with bias binding, I had to give my skirt a polka dot edge. I love how the inside of the skirt looks now, it has such a neat, professional finish.

Talking of polka dots, do you like my buttons?! They were given to me by Kerry a few years ago (I think!) and I couldn't resist adding them. Hopefully, the plain, functional denim stops them looking too twee. 

I have a feeling I'll be wearing the Arielle skirt a lot. It seems to be a good match with every single top half I throw at it (as evidenced by the unusual amount of costume changes in this post!), which I'm  taking as a good sign!  I'm so happy with it - I've ended up with a gorgeous, retro looking skirt that was born to live in my wardrobe.  x

Cressida Skirt - the jury's out

Let's talk about circle skirts, or half circles or three-quarter circles or however much of a circle you want your circle skirt to be. Fact: I've never made a circle skirt. I've made a couple of dresses that included circle skirts (half and full) and was pleased with the results, but I'm convinced this was because the skirt was attached to the dress, which makes a world of difference. I do like the look of circle skirts, I like pinning pictures of them on Pinterest and reading about them and there are some sewing bloggers who just seem to carry them off with aplomb (Cashmerette made a fab plaid one and Lazy Seamstress has made trillions).  I just don't think they suit me.

This is a very roundabout way of introducing you to the Cressida Skirt which I recently pattern tested for Jennifer Lauren Vintage. As you may have guessed, Cressida is a half circle skirt with button placket, waistband and in-seam pockets. There are two design variations: one with a double breasted button placket and one with cute belt loops. When Jennifer asked if I was interested in testing, I almost declined because of the shape, it was the interesting design details that piqued my interest.  So I dived in, choosing a bright green cotton twill from Goldhawk Road to make it with for good measure.

The instructions for the Cressida skirt are clear and well explained, with lots of additional information and diagrams for tricky areas. I also like the way Jen groups the pattern pieces for each version separately, so you only need to print out the pages you need.  In terms of fit, there were a few tweaks that have now been made to the waistband following tester feedback, However, the finished waistband still has very little ease (only ½"), which is great if you like a tight fit round the waist, but not so good if you need a bit of room for pie eating. I cut a size 10, which was optimistic to say the least and, as it turns out, a grave error. The result was an uncomfortably snug waist, and an hour spent unpicking the entire waistband (after it had been top stitched...) and re-drafting a new one, I should add that this was all my own fault, I should have been truthful rather than vain with the size. My advice therefore is to look at the finished measurements and be realistic when deciding which size to sew, or add a bit of width if you're not sure.

Apart from the waistband saga, the skirt sewed together easily and was a relatively straight forward make. There's a fair bit of top stitching on the skirt waistband, button placket and belt loops, which I didn't mind at all - I'm a sucker for a nice bit of top stitching and I love how it looks. I would also re-iterate what Mary emphasised in her review here, which is to stay-stitch the waist of your skirt immediately after cutting to prevent the curved waistline stretching.

Avert your eyes from that top buttonhole...

So, what do I think about the finished Cressida skirt? Well, it's not every day I have the patience to unpick a waistband AND sew on 11 buttons, which is a measure of how much I wanted this skirt to work for me. The sad truth is, I'm not sure it does. I can't quite pinpoint what it is, maybe I'm not used to having so much width around my hips or maybe it's just sheer volume of fabric? Whatever it is, I don't like how it looks on me and if you're not happy yourself with the look of a garment, then you're not going to wear it. Which is such a shame because I really do think it's a lovely skirt and I adore the bright green fabric.

I have to point out that the colour in these photos isn't anywhere near as bright as the actual fabric - it's actually a bright, pea green. In fact it's the exact same colour as a pair of culottes I had when I was about 11. I can't remember if they were my mum's culottes that she cut down, or an old skirt of hers that she converted (if you're reading this mummy, can you phone me and let me know please?!) Whatever their origin, I loved them, and was hoping I'd feel the same way about my Cressida skirt. It's not looking too hopeful so far, but never say never eh? I was very ambiguous about my Kelly skirt when I first made it and now I wear it all the time!

As with all these things, this is merely my own personal opinion. If you do like the cut of its jib and can totally rock a half circle skirt, then the Cressida PDF skirt pattern is available to purchase here.

Have a good weekend! x

The Cressida pattern was given to me free of charge for pattern testing. All views my own.

Hello sailor!

As you'll know, if you've read this post, I've had plans to sew myself a pair of sailor shorts for a while. I have a LOT of striped tops in my wardrobe, all waiting patiently for some denim sailor shorts to turn up and be paired off with. Very patiently in fact - I haven't owned a pair of denim shorts since 1993…..

Obviously gigantic messenger bags were all the rage 20 years ago.

Sadly I'm no longer the stick-thin 24 year old in the photo, but I wasn't going to let that stop me,  I just used a pattern that was a bit more flattering to my shape. The pattern is Kwik Sew 3854 which comes with two options: mid-length sailor shorts (which I opted for) or a fancy looking shorts/culottes/skirt hybrid. This was my first time using a Kwik Sew pattern and I was mightily impressed with the well explained written instructions and clear diagrams. The pattern I used was kindly lent to me by Zoe, but Sewbox also stocks it here.

I cut a size medium, which, according to the envelope, should have fitted perfectly, but they turned out much too loose, especially around the derriere. The denim I used has some stretch to it, but I suspect this pattern is sized quite generously anyway, stretch fabric or not. As usual, I couldn't be arsed to sew a muslin, so had to make all the fit adjustments on the go. To get them to fit the way I wanted them to, I removed a 1½" wedge from the top of the back crotch curve and ⅝" from the top of the front crotch curve. This means my waistband now has a centre back seam in it, like gents trousers! I also brought in the inside leg by ⅝", but left the side seams as they were as I didn't want to mess with the shape.

I like the way sailor shorts or trousers are constructed: they have a central panel section/flap which folds open just above the pockets. When worn, the shorts are buttoned on each side of the waistband for a snug fit.  You can't really get a sense of the exact fit until they're all buttoned up, so do as I say and not as I do - make a muslin first if you're at all worried about sizing!

I faithfully followed all my own advice from my tips for sewing with denim post and they sewed up perfectly. I used a contrast cotton for the inside waistbands and pocket facings to reduce bulk - I like the fact that behind all that denim, lurks a tropical surprise

For buttons I used the same wooden anchor buttons from Textile Garden that Winnie used on her Nautical Coco. Aren't they amazing?! They come with little holes in them, so you can sew your own anchors in any colour of thread. My thanks to the reader who suggested they'd be a good match for my sailor shorts! It did take a little while to hand sew the anchors on six buttons, but I think the time invested was worth it. Sadly, my buttonholes are a bit of a mess, but that's the advantage of using gorgeous buttons - nobody will be looking at the buttonholes!

I love these shorts! The fit is exactly what I was hoping for: comfortable and flattering but with a bit of a retro flavour to stop them looking too mumsy (I hope!) And as expected, they're a perfect match with my striped Coco.

Untucked….

…or tucked in

Hoorah for sailor shorts! x

Coco revealed

Have you seen Coco - the latest pattern release from Tilly and the Buttons? It's Tilly's third pattern but the first that's available printed and I was lucky enough to be a pattern tester, wahay! Let's talk about Coco.

Coco is a Breton-style top or dress, designed especially for knit fabrics with lots of style options. Top or dress? Three quarter length sleeves or full length? Traditional slashed neck or sixties style funnel neck? Oh the decisions. To test it, I decided to go for a plain necked top with full length sleeves.

The pattern is intended for stable knits fabrics such as double knit, interlock knit or ponte knit. I chose a red double knit from an eBay seller which is a nice quality, but a bit on the raspberry side of red for my liking. Despite this, it sews up perfectly and washes well. Yes, it's been washed many times already because it's hardly ever off my back. The pattern is sized from 1 to 8, for reference I'm generally a UK10-12 for tops and I made a size 3. It's very flattering and comfortable and a great fit - I didn't have to make any changes to the pattern at all. The fit around the waist and hips does a great job of accentuating your shape whilst still being comfortable enough to do a bit of hoola hooping in, if you so wish.

The top version of Coco only has three pattern pieces and it was super simple to put together.  The sleeves are constructed flat i.e. the sleeve head is attached to the underarm whilst it's flat, then sewn up the side seams and arm seams in one go. Easy! I sewed the main seams on my overlocker and used a double needle for the hems and a zigzag stitch for the neckline, so no fiddling with neckbands. Don't worry if you don't have an overlocker, you'll be able to whip this up on a regular machine in no time.

The weight of my double knit is quite thick and the top actually looks much better untucked. The side splits give it that ohh la la French look, especially when worn with unseasonal cropped jeans and wedges. I know, I know, it's freezing outside but I couldn't resist ('why are you wearing shorts?' my son asked me...) Tilly gives plenty of suggestions for adding your own individual touches to Coco. Naturally, I chose to add a row of nautical buttons to the shoulders, just because.

And finally, we come to the packaging and instructions. In a word (or a few words), the packaging is to die for. I'm easily won over by packaging and the design on the front has polka dots as a background for goodness sake, what's not to like?! The instructions are clear as a bell and come in a full colour instruction booklet with step by step photographs!! Yes, really! And if you still get stuck, Tilly has blog posts a-plenty on sewing with knits etc scheduled over the next few weeks.

I think the Coco pattern is a really important new kid on the block. It's an excellent introductory pattern for newbie sewists and a well drafted, well fitting pattern for those with a bit more experience under their belts. Congratulations Tilly, I know that an incredible amount of hard work has gone into creating this pattern - and it shows.  Coco deserves to do well and I'm sure it will. If you haven't yet bought a copy, you can get one here.

I was so pleased with my Coco top that I made a dress version as well, but you'll have to wait for another post to see that. Spoiler alert: it's fab! x

The Coco pattern was given to me free of charge for pattern testing. All views my own.

1950's sleeveless top revisited

I have a soft spot for sleeveless 1950's tops. Or to be specific, I have a soft spot for button fronted, notched collared, darted sleeveless tops made from vintage 1950's patterns. Tops like this one…

I made this first version almost exactly two years ago and I love it, even though it's far, far from perfect. I completely lost my way constructing the collar and ended up doing my own thing. It's made from cheap, shoddy gingham which I didn't even attempt to match up. Nothing is interfaced etc etc. I'm getting very critical here (sorry top) but the thing is, none of that matters because I love it to death, it's one of my most worn handmade items and is just so perfectly me it's ridiculous. So when I was going through the remains of my stash (which is reducing at an alarming rate I'm happy to report) and found just under a metre of navy stretch polka dot fabric, I knew exactly how it could be put to good use. I would make another sleeveless top from the same pattern (vintage Simplicity 4238). 

The fabric, which is left over from my Ruby dress, is awesome. It's got a slight stretch to it which is perfect for fitted garments as it yanks you in. And because it's medium weight and holds its shape pretty well, I didn't have to bother with interfacing. 

I was pretty inexperienced in sewing with vintage patterns when I made my first version so it was good to be able to come back to the pattern with a bit more experience under my belt.  Instructions that made no sense whatsoever two years ago, suddenly became crystal clear. I still really like the pattern details too, lots of strategically placed darts (12 in total) which give a great 1950's shape. 

I used pale blue vintage fish eye buttons. Normally I'd go for white or red buttons with navy but fancied a change. Plus, they're a perfect match with this cardigan….

On Brighton beach with my boy

Talking of buttons, buttonhole placements on patterns never quite manage to be in the right place for my shape. More often than not there's a bit of gaping, which is really frustrating when the rest of the make is perfect.  This time, I followed the brilliant advice Sunni from A Fashionable Stitch gave on buttonhole placement here and it worked a treat, no gaping whatsoever.

Verdict? Love it!

I've already cut out another gingham version and I'm now thinking I might need to make yet another version in white. A white sleeveless top is supremely handy to have in the wardrobe and would be a good match for my yellow Miette skirt (inspired by Marie's lovely styling here). Actually the navy polka dot version would go well with the Miette skirt too… it seems to go with everything else! Enjoy the sunshine while it lasts. x

New purchases

It’s the school holidays, so sadly, there’s not much time for sewing.  I have to get my fix somehow though, and this usually involves new fabric and/or patterns.  We had a very rare day and night away this week – we left the children with my in-laws in Cheltenham and sped off to Bath to be tourists.  I must say a BIG thank you to Scruffy Badger (Winnie) who, as a Bath resident provided me with a fantastic list of places to eat and drink, most of which we sampled.  Here’s what else I managed to sniff out whilst we were away:

Lovely polka dot fabric, destined for this pattern.

The most gorgeous 1930’s style greeny/blue fabric.  

The lady in the shop pointed out that it was actually lining fabric, but I ignored her and bought it anyway.  I really want to make another version of my 1930’s rabbit blouse using this colour fabric, so I can pretend to be Miss Sarah Burton from South Riding.  

Image: BBC

With hindsight, and after several dreams about it (yes, seriously) I think it probably does look like lining fabric (doh).  Never mind, I shall use it to line something fabulous so you just get a flash of the gorgeous colour.  My search for the South Riding fabric continues…

Whilst we were looking round an antiques market, I found a whole stall devoted to vintage buttons.  

I bought these lovelies, all of which could be used for a South Riding blouse.  Obsessed?  Me?  No chance.

On the way back to Cheltenham, we stopped off in Stroud.  An hour later I had my grubby mitts on this lot.  

I’ve already planned the fabric for two versions of this A-line skirt (red wool crepe left over from my Swing dress and black gabardine if you’re interested).

The last one looks like a great pattern if I can tone down the collar so it doesn't make me look  like the scary queen from Snow White.  

The 1960’s pattern with the Go-Go boots may be pushing it a bit, but I can always keep it up my sleeve for a giveaway.

Definitely enough booty to keep me quiet for a few days...

Finished Beignet!

Hoorah, at last I've finished my Beignet skirt from Collette Patterns and I'm SSOOO pleased with it.  

I made it in a navy cotton drill with red detailing.  The pattern was great to work with and I whipped through it, until I got to the section that made me break out in a cold sweat - the twelve buttons and buttonholes. I know some sewers have certain sewing tasks they hate/can't do very well - well buttons and buttonholes are definitely mine.  I took me almost the same amount of time to make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons than it did to sew the entire rest of the skirt.  I just about managed to get them done without ruining the whole thing, apart from one rogue one that unfortunately looks like the Frankenstein's monster of buttonholes. This was thanks to a last minute slip of the hand with the seam ripper (and yes, it was the LAST buttonhole after 11 perfect ones, sob!) Once the skirt is buttoned up though, you don't even notice it, as my husband helpfully told me whilst I was mopping up my tears.

Things I liked about this pattern:

1) The instructions.  As ever, lovely and clear and easy to follow.

2) The fit.  I cut out my size and didn't have to make one adjustment, it fitted me like a glove.  I know some bloggers have had problems with the fit, so I think my body shape and this style just happen to be a good match.  I'm on the curvy side so maybe this helps?

3) The design.  I love the way the skirt is put together, it's so clever.  I particularly like the facings (which I'm so pleased I made in a contrast fabric, thanks Tilly for the idea!) and the lining which neatly covers over all the seams underneath.

Look at the facing!

4) The fact that the skill level is Intermediate!  I'm feeling super pleased with myself about this one particularly!

Here's one last look at the contrasting pockets.

Gearing up for skirt making

I’ve been spending all my sewing time making stuff for xmas craft fairs recently and am starting to get withdrawal symptoms! When I was making my niece’s xmas dress last week I realised I’d been really missing it – I want to do some dressmaking.  There’s something about the whole ritual of cutting out a pattern, choosing fabric and making it up that’s far more satisfying than making endless purses and cushions (although I do enjoy that, just not for weeks on end).

As a result, I’ve got a backlog of patterns crying out to be made into clothes. Top of the list is the Beignet skirt from my favourite pattern designer – Colette Patterns.

I really could do with making it now, as it’s the sort of skirt I’d wear all winter, and the fabric I’ve bought is quite winter-friendly (a heavyish navy cotton drill).  I’ve seen some really inspiring versions of this skirt too, which has been making me even more impatient to sew it.   One of my favourites is the 70’s style denim skirt made by Tilly.  I’ll be copying her method of sewing the pockets and facing in a contrast fabric - red with white polka dots in this case. So here are the ingredients for my Beignet.  The only thing missing is the thin cotton navy lining but you get the idea…

 Aren’t the red buttons fab?  

I found them on a tiny little stall in Shepherd’s Bush market and there were only twelve left.  The Beignet skirt needs twelve buttons (a scary thought, all those buttonholes!) so that sealed their fate.  My plan is to cut it out next week...