Anya Shoulder Bag

After a short sewing break over Christmas I decided to ease myself back into sewing by making a bag. I don't make bags very often, probably because I've made so many reversible shoppers to sell at craft fairs it's almost put me off for life! The type of bag I needed was a shoulder bag suitable for family walks or trips to the park, but with a bit more style than a basic tote or calico bag (of which I have many!)

The Anya Shoulder Bag from So, Zo... seemed to fit the bill perfectly - it has a stylish rounded shape and I particularly like the pleat detail.

So on New Year's Day I spent a pleasant couple of hours hunting through my stash looking for suitable fabrics. I wanted a solid colour for the main bag to minimise outfit clashes and decided on a classic go-with-everything denim. The fabric recommendation is for a sturdy, medium-heavy weight woven fabric with no stretch content, so I used a remnant of dark indigo denim left over from my McCalls 6696 shirt dress. The pattern advises you to interface the outer bag fabric, but I chose not to as my denim was so robust.

The good thing about denim is that it complements absolutely any fabric, so I was able to really go for it when it came to choosing a lining. I used a goy-jus mustard barkcloth that I bought from Misformake in the summer (now sold out sadly).

It's printed with little houses and the overall feel of the fabric is very mid-century - I love it! I only had half a metre, which isn't really enough for garment making, but plenty big enough for a spectacular bag lining! Because it's barkcloth, it's also a reasonable weight, making the whole bag pretty sturdy. 

This pattern was a delight to work with. The PDF is super speedy to tile together (only four A4 pages). and the instructions include colour photos and very comprehensive explanations for each step. Making this bag was such a stress-free experience: all the pieces fit together perfectly so you can't really go wrong. And I still got to flex my sewing muscles by inserting a lining, top stitching and making pleats, just on a very small, simple scale!

My version of the Anya bag doesn't include the button tab as I don't particularly like them. At some point I'll make myself sew on a large popper to keep the top closed for added security. I also shortened the straps by four inches as the bag sat too far down my body as originally drafted. I'm really happy with the finished bag and I know I'll be using it a lot this year.

The Anya bag doesn't require much fabric (just under a metre for the outer bag and about half a metre for the lining) and can easily be completed in an afternoon. I can see myself making lots more of them in the future as gifts! All in all, a very satisfying first project for the New Year! x

Your OWOP Week

I've read sooooo many OWOP blog posts this week, it really has been a pleasure to see what everybody's been up around the world! Happily, wearing variations of the same pattern every day for a week doesn't seem to have put most of you off your beloved patterns. Admittedly, there were a few who couldn't wait to see the back of them by the end of the week! But for many of you, OWOP reiterated what it was that you initially loved about your chosen pattern, which is always nice!

I've been taken aback by how creative you've been with your patterns and styling, seriously, there are some amazing outfits out there! Much as I'd like to include them all, my blog's not big enough, so here's a teeny, tiny selection of the ones that caught my eye…..

I like the whole look that Char from T*Rexes and Tiaras put together on day one of the challenge, using Simplicity 2444 as a starting point:

This nautical outfit from Just Sew Jenna is all kinds of awesome. The gorgeous top was created using New Look 6808 and two of her dads old shirts!

I LOVE the fifties look that Emily from To be a Woman has achieved with this dress, using the bodice from Simplicity 1460 and a circle skirt.

Zoe from Tadpegs did an amazing job of squeezing out seven different looks from just two variations of the Deer & Doe Plantain tee:

And Trixie Lixie got herself snapped with my all time favourite movie hunk - Steve McQueen - whilst wearing the Amy Butler Barcelona Skirt!

One particularly thought provoking post to come out of OWOP was by Nicki at This is Moonlight. She put together a week's worth of outfits using the Named Ailakki jumpsuit, including shorts and skirt variants! But it was her thoughts on photographing herself that really resonated. Here's an edited version of what she said:

"I have never liked posing for the camera and have many, many eyes shut, tongue out photos over the years to prove it! But…something has happened over this year. I have had to get used to taking photos of myself, and not just the same old me, but the me as I went through losing my hair and now my breasts. It is like photographing myself going through these stages has helped me shed the layers of self doubt and anxiety.

…I am learning to make clothes and documenting the process helps me order my thoughts and solidify what I have learnt. Along the way, wonderful challenges like this weeks OWOP, where I voluntarily took daily selfies (ha!) have been incredible tools for me in finding my inner beauty."

 

You put together some gorgeous outfits Nicki, but these two were my favourites! 

And finally, the prize for most adorable OWOP participant goes to Dolores from So,Zo...! With a little help from her mummy Zoe, Dolores totally rocked the Playful Kitty leggings pattern from Ottobre magazine. Just look at those teeth!!

That's all folks! You can find more links in the comments section of this post. And if you participated this year, don't forget to check out the fab OWOP giveaways that still have a few more days to run. Have a great day everybody! x

Bronte Top

Long ago (about 15 years), I found my perfect plain white T-shirt in the bargain bin of a posh London shop. It was, without doubt, my favourite and most flattering white T shirt ever. It was made from a pretty thin jersey though, so barely lasted more than two summers. The thing that made it different to other T-shirts was its neckline. It had an overlapping section on either side of the neck, that joined to the shoulder seams. I've since discovered that this shrug style detail is seen a lot in 1940's fashions. And babies vests of course!

Imagine my delight when Jennifer Lauren released her second pattern - the Bronte Top - featuring this very shoulder detail. Jen kindly sent me the PDF pattern to try, and my first thought was to recreate my favourite T shirt. Once I'd cut it out, it only took a couple of hours of very leisurely sewing to complete. I followed the instruction diagrams exactly and the shoulder details slotted into place first time, it really was easy to sew. I sewed about 90% of it on my overlocker and finished all the bound edges and hems with a double needle. The pattern is multi-sized from 6 to 20 - I cut a size 12 at the bust, grading to a size 10 at the waist and hips. Looking at these photos I could probably have done with a bit more room across the bust, but it doesn't bother me. I personally like my T shirts to be quite tight fitting, so I'll be wearing the hell out of it.

For fabric, I used a white jersey knit from UK Fabrics Online, which is described as heavyweight, but is actually quite a light weight for a summer T-shirt. At £3.99 a metre, the quality is quite basic, so my plan was to use it for a test garment to check the fit. Once I'd finished the top and tried it on however it looked fab, a tiny bit transparent maybe, but nothing a good T-shirt bra can't handle! For a more robust jersey, take a look at the Interlock knits from The Village Haberdashery. They're reasonably thick, so probably not high summer weight, but ideal for any other time of year.

Admittedly I've made the plainest possible version of this pattern (sorry about that!) but it would also look lovely in a bright solid or patterned knit.  You can add interest by using a contrast binding (see Zoe's gorgeous version here) or sew buttons on the shoulders. And there's a long sleeved option - yippee! I can really see this pattern becoming a wardrobe basic - I need a plain cream one … and a navy one …and maybe another white one…In short I love this top, it's easy to sew and looks ace - I plan to make hundreds of them. That's all! If you like the look of it too, the pattern is available to buy here.

Have a good day! x

The Bronte pattern was given to me free of charge for review. All views my own.

Hello sailor!

As you'll know, if you've read this post, I've had plans to sew myself a pair of sailor shorts for a while. I have a LOT of striped tops in my wardrobe, all waiting patiently for some denim sailor shorts to turn up and be paired off with. Very patiently in fact - I haven't owned a pair of denim shorts since 1993…..

Obviously gigantic messenger bags were all the rage 20 years ago.

Sadly I'm no longer the stick-thin 24 year old in the photo, but I wasn't going to let that stop me,  I just used a pattern that was a bit more flattering to my shape. The pattern is Kwik Sew 3854 which comes with two options: mid-length sailor shorts (which I opted for) or a fancy looking shorts/culottes/skirt hybrid. This was my first time using a Kwik Sew pattern and I was mightily impressed with the well explained written instructions and clear diagrams. The pattern I used was kindly lent to me by Zoe, but Sewbox also stocks it here.

I cut a size medium, which, according to the envelope, should have fitted perfectly, but they turned out much too loose, especially around the derriere. The denim I used has some stretch to it, but I suspect this pattern is sized quite generously anyway, stretch fabric or not. As usual, I couldn't be arsed to sew a muslin, so had to make all the fit adjustments on the go. To get them to fit the way I wanted them to, I removed a 1½" wedge from the top of the back crotch curve and ⅝" from the top of the front crotch curve. This means my waistband now has a centre back seam in it, like gents trousers! I also brought in the inside leg by ⅝", but left the side seams as they were as I didn't want to mess with the shape.

I like the way sailor shorts or trousers are constructed: they have a central panel section/flap which folds open just above the pockets. When worn, the shorts are buttoned on each side of the waistband for a snug fit.  You can't really get a sense of the exact fit until they're all buttoned up, so do as I say and not as I do - make a muslin first if you're at all worried about sizing!

I faithfully followed all my own advice from my tips for sewing with denim post and they sewed up perfectly. I used a contrast cotton for the inside waistbands and pocket facings to reduce bulk - I like the fact that behind all that denim, lurks a tropical surprise

For buttons I used the same wooden anchor buttons from Textile Garden that Winnie used on her Nautical Coco. Aren't they amazing?! They come with little holes in them, so you can sew your own anchors in any colour of thread. My thanks to the reader who suggested they'd be a good match for my sailor shorts! It did take a little while to hand sew the anchors on six buttons, but I think the time invested was worth it. Sadly, my buttonholes are a bit of a mess, but that's the advantage of using gorgeous buttons - nobody will be looking at the buttonholes!

I love these shorts! The fit is exactly what I was hoping for: comfortable and flattering but with a bit of a retro flavour to stop them looking too mumsy (I hope!) And as expected, they're a perfect match with my striped Coco.

Untucked….

…or tucked in

Hoorah for sailor shorts! x

Anchors Aweigh!

If you've been paying attention for the past few years, you'll have noticed that I'm more than a little fond of the nautical look. My favourite colour combination (blue and white) is often used, sometimes with a bit of red thrown in and a liberal use of large white buttons. As far as shapes and styles are concerned I have a huge soft spot for sailor trousers and large-collared sailor tops…

Deanna Durbin and friends in Three Smart Girls

Adorable sailor collared halter neck blouse (I think)

Sailor sweater, oh I WISH I could knit sometimes!

But for a real taste of nautical chic, there's nothing quite like the winning combo of striped Breton top and high wasted sailor shorts. And brown legs of course, if you're lucky!

Just in case I get an invitation to mess around in a boat this summer, I've decided to make myself this very same winning combo.  For the shorts, I'm going down the denim route, inspired by these beauties.

I'll be using Kwik Sew 3854, kindly lent to me by Zoe. In fact, we did a sailor swap - I loaned her my copy of Simplicity 2654 to make a pair of awesome sailor trousers! I'll be making view B, from a lovely dark, stretch denim. Now I just need to work on applying fake tan for an entire year to get my legs the requisite bronzed hue (ha!)

For the Breton style top there was only ever one contender - the Coco pattern.  I used an unusual green and cream striped stable knit from the Goldhawk Road, which is a lovely quality knit. I went for the ¾ sleeve option and also shortened the body length quite a bit. I do like the original length of the Coco top with the split, but wanted something that wouldn't be too bulky tucked in. The shorter length also means it can showcase any awesome sailor buttons I manage to scavenge for my shorts.  I tapered the waist and hips in by about ½" for a more fitted look and also reduced the width of the sleeves. 

The neck is a bit baggier than I'd like, but I think that's more to do with me using a zigzag stitch. For some reason, all my zigzagged hems came out wavy as hell on this make. The arms and main hems looked ridiculous and the only reason the neck is wearable is because I applied knit stay tape beforehand. In the end I had no choice but to cut the hems off and start again, this time using a twin needle, which seemed to do the trick. Definitely something to keep in mind for next time.  Here it is tucked in...

Despite this, the top sewed up very quickly on my overlocker and I'm pleased with how well it seems to pair with my existing wardrobe.  A good nautical start I'd say! I can't wait to pair it with the sailor shorts in a few week's time. Right, must go and practise a furious dance routine a la Gene Kelly…. x

Knicker making part one: inspiration

These lovely (but predictably patterned) pants were made by my good self at an organised knicker-making workshop last year. It was brilliant fun, everything is cut out and ready for you, all you have to do is choose your trimmings and sew them up. Being naturally lazy, I was perfectly happy with the thought that this was the only way I was ever going to make my own knickers.

But the more online 'research' I did and the more beautiful hand sewn undies I saw, the more convinced I became that I should give knicker making a proper go. Where to start though?  There's certainly no shortage of inspiration out there, so I thought I'd share a few of my favourites before actually going for it. 

There are endless options for making your own frillies. You can make them from a pre-bought kit like Tilly did,

You can use a pair of existing pants as a template, or try one of the awesome patterns out there, many of which are free. Free patterns include a simple pair of everyday pants by 'So, Zo…'

the Amerson free undies pattern by Madalynne, beautifully made here by Karen

or the Rosy ladyshorts by Amy at cloth habit. 

Or you can use a regular pattern which is how my two favourite pairs of on-line undies came to be in existence. My favourite self-made knickers by a long shot, are ooobop's High Waisted 50's silk pants.

Made from a Burda pattern, they're just perfect, and the lovely vintage-style cut gives them an oh-so-glamorous edge, exactly what I would want to wear myself. I can't in all honesty say the same thing about my other favourite pair, but I can sit back and admire the workmanship. If French yoked boxer shorts made from a 1940's pattern are your thing, then you're in for a treat.

You can read all about Peter at Male Pattern Boldness's pants here and marvel at the amount of detail that's gone into these undies: an adjustable buttoned waistband (no elastic in those days) 

and a gathered back section to accommodate the backside (no stretch fabrics in those days either). Truly a work of art - and he's even done what no other sewing blogger has done before - model them himself…. 

I don't usually post pictures of men in their underwear on my blog (there are secret Pinterest boards for that kind of thing...) but in this case how could I resist?! And before you ask, I did obtain permission from Mr MPB before posting a pic of him in his under crackers.

Other knicker patterns I've been mightily swayed by are some of the Ohhh Lulu designs. I thought long and hard about attempting the Betty High Waist Pants.

Gorgeous as they are, I think they might be just too ambitious for my first attempt - I do have a cunning plan concerning the Betty pants though, which I'll reveal in the next post... I like the look of the new Grace pattern too - it seems a bit more achievable for a novice like me. 

The shape is very similar to what I usually wear, although if I'm honest, I prefer my pants a bit higher, hence my swooning over ooobop's pair. What also drew me in is that they're designed to be made with a combination of woven and stretch fabrics - good if you're a bit unsure about diving head first into stretch fabric territory. And, you can use up some of your favourite woven remnants too. The possibilities are endless - matching knickers for every outfit if you're not careful…

There's too much choice - I'll have to go away and mull it all over I think. In the meantime, any advice on knicker patterns (preferably not too low slung please) and/or knicker making tips will be very gratefully received.  x

Lovely new things...

My recent acquisitions seem to have been piling up, so I thought I'd better share some of them with you (not everything mind, nobody wants to hear about purchases of thread and zips, no matter how exciting...)

From The Village Haberdashery, a 'Seamstress' mug. 

The description reads:

"A creative and intelligent woman engaged in the noble art of clothes making; both at home and in the workplace." 

A while back there was a debate on somebody's blog about the preferred term for us stitching types.  Lots of people objected to the term seamstress on the grounds that it was old fashioned, female specific and implied that you only sewed as a profession.  I wasn't one of those people and proudly hold my hand up as a fan of the term, it just sounds so lovely when you say it and who could object to the description on the mug?  ALL sewing related tea and coffee will now be taken from it.

What next?  Oooh an Edwardian (allegedly) cherry basket, picked up from the Cirencester antique market.  No surprises for guessing which dress this will be teamed with...

Now as soon as I saw Scruffy Badger's vintage pattern lady brooch recently, I knew I HAD to have one. 

They're made by Zoe and available through her Etsy shop ladybirdlikes and they don't really need any explanation, aren't they just awesome?!  Of course, I chose a brunette wearing a spotty red dress, although if there'd been a blonde one, I'd have gone for her instead - I love the idea of wearing a little vintage-style mini-me brooch. 

I also had some good luck again at Portobello market.  Last time I was there I came back with the curtains that eventually turned into my Portobello blouse.  This time round, I found this little beaut of a Vogue pattern...

and two metres of this boudoir-style slinky red fabric.  It's a bit over the top for a dress, but maybe a dressing gown? Or a fabulous, unexpected lining?  

I was also sorely tempted to buy this 1920's dummy, but I didn't have a spare £80, so had to restrain myself....

And last, but by no means least, look at my fab new sweatshirt made for me by Zoe.  

I fell in love with her grey version after seeing it on this post.  I asked if I could commission her to make me a navy version and because she's a darling, she agreed. It's beautifully made, fits like a dream and I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE it.  

In fact, five minutes after ripping it out of its envelope and putting it on, I received a compliment on it when I answered the door. It's a little too warm to wear at the moment (can't believe I just typed that after my recent whining about the weather), but I can see it being worn to death once the cooler weather arrives.  

Happy Tuesday. x