Antebellum Dress

From the seller:

This auction is for an original lady's dress from the Pre-Civil War period. It is made of shimmering aubergine silk taffeta. Features include dropped shoulders with piped armholes, waist and neck. The sleeves are particularly elegant. They're constructed in two pieces and curved, like a coat-sleeve, but start out narrow and widen, ike a pagoda sleeve! They're elegantly trimmed with multi-colored braid. The skirt has amazing cartridge pleating! The bodice is lined with brown cotton. This is a magnificent example of Pre-war design and a great addition to any collection! One photo shows how the dress would have looked in the evening under the light. Collar, embroidered cuffs and pin not included.

Condition: Some discoloration on the skirt and at the armholes along with a few missing buttons and some repairs including a long one around the hem.

Measurements are: The bust measures about 33 inches, The waist measures about 24 inches. The front length is about 41 inches.

From Me:

1856 Fashion Plate

The slope of the shoulders and the shaping of the bodice are consistent with the mid 1850's. The pleats all the way around evenly is also very 1850's. By the American Civil War, the pleats started to be pushed more towards the back than the front; by the end of the war, you start to see dresses with flat fronts and a ton of pleats to the back and sides. It was to accommodate the elliptical shaped hoop rather than the bell hoops we are used to.

The sleeves are both earlier and later than 1856. I'm curious if the dress was redone later or created earlier than the mid 1850's.

1850's Christmas Green Plaid Dress

From the seller:

A charming 1860’s green and black plaid silk dress that has been de-accessioned from the Rochester Historical Society Museum collection. The cataloging number is stitched inside the skirt waist band The bodice has full pagoda styled sleeves. The top of the sleeves are pleated and decorated with green and black stripe silk bows. The hemline on the sleeves are trimmed with the same ribbon. The bottom of the sleeves are lined with white silk. There is some age spotting on the silk lining. (See photo.) The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front hook and eye closure. The neck, armscyes and waist are piped. The skirt is fully lined with cotton. The dress is in very good and sturdy condition. There are no splits in the fabric. There is some light underarm discoloration. Bust 35 Waist 26 Skirt length 40 Width at hemline 110.

From Me:

1858 Fashion Plate

1858 Fashion Plate

The dress on the left shows the bow placement, the gray dress on the right shows the bodice style.

1850's Gown Remade in the 1860's

From the seller:

This auction is for an original Young Lady's ball gown from the Pre Civil War period. It could possibly be as early as 1840s, but it's 2 piece with a straight waist, making me think it's more early 1850s up to as late as 1856, before hoops became general. It is made of gray silk with a woven stripe of bright purple. The bodice has a center back closure of hooks and eyes and narrow sleeves trimmed out in gray fringe. It's lining is heavy brown cotton twill. The bodice and skirt both appear to be all hand-sewn. The skirt has gorgeous cartridge pleating all around and narrow wool hem tape. There's a pocket in the side seam. It's fully lined in brown polished cotton. The dress has incredibly narrow shoulders.

Condition: Scattered small holes and some overall light discoloration, most significantly at the under arms. However, my photos make it appear more pronounced that it looks in person. There is wear to the hem and waistband with modern hooks/eyes on the waistband. Please look closely at the photos.

Measurements are: The bust measures 31 inches, The waist measures 24 inches. The length of the skirt is 40 inches.


From Me:



Although the overall shape stayed early 1850's (off shoulder straps, short little sleeves with ridiculous fringe, the pleated all the way around evenly skirt), the bodice point got chopped off probably during the Civil War.

Lovely Pale Green 1850's Dress

From the seller:

A beautiful 1850-1860 celery green changeable floral satin brocade dress that has recently been de-accessioned from the Rochester Historical Society Museum collection. The fabric has a gold and light blue floral pattern that changes depending on the light reflection. The background fabric has a strong blue undertone. The bodice has semi pagoda sleeves. The front and sleeve cuffs are trimmed with gold silk lace. The neck, armscyes and waist are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front hook and eye closure. The skirt is attached to the waist with cartridge pleating. The skirt is lined with cotton. The dress is in very good and sturdy condition. There is some underarm discoloration and a few scattered age spots. There is a tiny split near the back neckline and a couple of minor breaks in the lace. Bust 31 Waist 23 Skirt length 39 ½ Width at hemline 148.

From Me:

The fashion plate below is from 1852 and the gray dress is very similar in style to this extant one.

1852 Fashion Plate

Late 1850's Antebellum Floral Dress

From the seller:

A glorious 1850-1860 floral warped print silk dress that has recently been de-accessioned from the Rochester Historical Society Museum. The flowers are done in shades of pink, dark blue, green and gold. The background fabric has a light blue and ivory stripe pattern. The white stripe has a scattering of warped blue print. The basque styled bodice is lavishly decorated with warped floral pink and blue silk trim and bows. The bodice has pagoda styled sleeves. The neck and armscyes are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and has a front hook and eye closure. The skirt is fully lined with cotton. The dress is for display only. There is some small scattered age spots and light soiling on the bodice. The back neckline is missing some piping and there is a 3 inch surface only split under one arm that is covered by the trim. There are a few scattered small splits in the skirt. The skirt also has one 8 inch split on the back near the waist area where the lining is exposed and some age discoloration in this same area. Most of the age flaws are near the upper waist area on the skirt and partly hidden by the bodice. (See photos.) Bust 34 Waist 24 Front Skirt length 41 back length 46. Width at hemline 160.

From Me:

1858 Fashion Plate from the Barrington House Collection

The lady in the purple dress has a very similar bodice as to this one. I adore the use of trim on this dress!