Showing posts with label Horses. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Horses. Show all posts

14 Feb 2017

Laminitis in Horses: My Story

Laminitis... a swear word in the horse lovers community.  Something I didn't know much about until recently.  Each horse is different and each horse owners story is different. I prefer a natural approach.  I have pulled my pets (and family) through many things when vets have written them off.  This is my story, and where my research led me.
    Thunder - my old man (left) and Fire - my mare (right)
    Photo taken about 2 years Prior.

16 Sept 2013

Horse Painting

WILD HORSES PAINTING
Some of you may (or not) have noticed that I recently changed my blog header.  I have however stuck with horses.  I love horses, I love just watching them grazing peacefully in a field.  To me there is little else so magical about the very essence of a horse.  Just being around them seems to bring an inner peace and strength.  I have had horses since my teenage years, and it appears that I am destined to have them awhile longer.  But that is a whole other story which shall be told in the not too distant future.
My previous blog header - also horses

20 Aug 2013

Diatomaceous Earth

ORGANIC GRADE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH
Amorphous Silica

GENERAL INFORMATION:
*  Probably the most effective naturally occurring organic insecticide powder is diatomaceous earth. This is a geological deposit made up of the fossilized skeletons of microscopic one-celled plants (phytoplankton) particularly diatoms and other algae that lived in the oceans and lakes. These deposits are mined from underwater beds or from ancient dried lake bottoms.
*  Natural DE makes a very effective organic insecticide. The insecticidal quality of DE is due to the razor sharp edges of the diatom remains. When DE comes in contact with the insects, the sharp edges lacerate the bugs waxy exoskeleton and then the powdery DE absorbs the body fluids causing parasite's death from dehydration.
*  Further protection is provided by the powder's property of repelling many insects. A similar principle probably accounts for the fact that birds frequently take dust baths, presumably to rid themselves of parasites.
*  DE works in a purely physical/mechanical manner, not ‘chemical’ and thus has no chemical toxicity. Best yet, parasites don’t build up a tolerance/immunity to its chemical reaction, so rotation is unnecessary.   
Diatomaceous Earth
HOUSEHOLD:
*  In houses it can be used effectively to prevent the entry of certain insects such as earwigs, ants, and cockroaches, and to control these and others that are present in cupboards containing food, carpets, basements, attics, window ledges, pet areas (for fleas), etc. In all of these examples it is important to place a small amount of the powder in corners, cracks, crevices, and other areas where insects might hide. Whereas with a contact pesticide the insect dies quite quickly, with DE control may take several days. The more important difference is that the effect of the protection provided by the chemical is short-lived, whereas DE will control the pests as long as the powder remains. In this respect DE is an ideal pesticide; it is residual but nontoxic. The only health precautions that need to be taken are that if large areas are being treated with a power duster, the applicator should wear a mask to prevent inhalation.  
*  Lightly sprinkle in household carpet. Leave for 2-3+ days, then vacuum. Please do not get heavy handed with the DE in your carpet, as it may cause problems with your vacuum cleaner.

EXTERNAL APPLICATIONS FOR ANIMALS and CHICKENS:
* Lightly rub into pets coat, fur, and bedding to dehydrate fleas, lice, mites, and ticks. Dust them lightly, but thoroughly, as in order to kill the parasites, they must come in contact with the DE.
Note: external application can take up to 72 hours to dehydrate external parasites.
*  Use DE throughout the barn, fowl coops, and pastures. When mucking the barn and coops, lightly, but thoroughly sprinkle DE absolutely everywhere! It keeps the barn “cleansed” and dry. In between barn mucking, sprinkle DE on wet spots to help dry them out and keep flies from laying eggs. DE applied to manure piles keeps fly loads down/eliminated.
*  DE is excellent in the chicken coops – on the ground, in nesting/dusting boxes to prevent lice and mites. Sprinkle directly on fowl feathers to eliminate mites and lice. One thorough dusting of a bird is enough to eliminate mites and lice. Just make sure to dust the nesting boxes and the ground as well for added assurance that the mites won't spread to the rest of the flock.
*  Dairy cow owners put DE in burlap bags, so cows can rub against it and sprinkle themselves with DE, which helps to eliminate flies that land on them, as well as lice and mites. Apply to moist kennel areas to reduce odors, dry the area, and prevent pest breeding.
*  Deodorizing and absorption are natural functions of DE, so add to kitty litter to absorb odors and keep the litter box drier.
* A small amount applied to livestock water keeps algae from growing on hot summer days.

GARDEN APPLICATIONS:
* DE’s minerals are great for the garden.
* Apply to ant hills. Small ants may require a few applications to completely eliminate them, as they burrow new hills elsewhere, when we plug their initial hill with DE, but if we keep at it, eventually they disappear. Big ants are eliminated within two applications of a reasonable amount of DE applied to their ant hill. Ants in trash cans can be controlled by either painting DE around the bottom of the trash can or sprinkling it dry around it. They’ll go elsewhere, as they do not like walking over DE, so you’ll need to find their home to completely eliminate them, but it will keep them away from areas you put DE. Sprinkled around the house foundation keeps new crawling insects from coming inside.            
* Mix DE with water to paint fruit tree trunks with it, like a white wash. It keeps ants OFF fruit trees.
1 cup applied to 2½ L of water works well. Good as a white wash for wood fencing too.
1 to 2 cups per 5L of water can be used to apply DE in a backpack or hose end sprayer for problem  infestations of mites, aphids, fungus problems, etc.
Note: DE will turn whatever you paint or spray with it white.
* Great for compost piles, to prevent breeding pests and control odors.

OUTDOOR BUGS AFFECTED by DIATOMACEOUS EARTH:
* Ants, fire ants, caterpillars, cut worms, army worms, fleas, ticks, cockroaches, snails, spiders, termites, scorpions, silver fish, lice, mites, flies, centipedes, earwigs, slugs, aphids, Japanese beetles (grub stage), fruit flies, corn earworm, cucumber beetles, corn borer, sting bugs, squash vine borers, thrips, loopers, etc., etc.

MINERALIZATION:
* Natural grade DE contains 15 trace minerals: calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, copper, zinc iron, phosphorous, selenium, etc. People note shinier coats, better overall health, better production, etc. in their animals who are fed DE regularly.   It has also been included in the diet (one per cent in the grain ration) to control certain internal parasites and this practice is said to result in lower fly populations in the resulting manure.

FLY CONTROL:
* Used regularly, DE can pretty much eliminate your fly population. Sprinkle on livestock when flies are present. Dust barns, coops, after mucking and throw on top of manure/compost piles. You need no longer use or need fly bags, fly predators/parasites, fly tapes, or sprays.
* DE can be put in a backpack sprayer mixed with water to spray your barn or coop buildings. Reapply DE when rain or water washes or wind blows it away.

MORE BENEFITS:
* Organic grade DE has been reported in literature to absorb methyl mercury, e-coli, endotoxins, viruses (including poliovirus), organophosphate pesticide residues, drug resides, and protein, perhaps even the proteinaceous toxins produced by some intestinal infections. DE detoxes.
* There are some features about DE that correspond with its ability as both a digestive aid and a colon cleanser. The honeycomb skeletal form of DE is found, under microscopic evaluation to reveal a tendency to become filled and clogged with hard debris such as intestinal scale. It has not been found to cause any insult to the mucous or barrier wall.
* DE has a negative charge and bacteria has a positive charge, wherein it is believed by some that DE sweeps bacteria out of the body by trapping it in it’s honeycomb shaped skeletal form.
* There is no withdrawal period when given to milking or feed animals. No toxins. Decreased mortality, increased milk production, decreased mastitis, and better feed conversion.

CAUTIONS:
* If you have asthma or some other lung ailment, we suggest wearing a mask when applying DE.
* Do NOT get DE in the eyes. DE is drying to the eyes, so do NOT put it out when you or your pets are down wind of it. 
* DE is drying to your skin, just as it can be to your pets.
* Do NOT give to very small pregnant animals such as cats, guinea pigs, etc. and do NOT feed continually to babies or small animals such as cats, hamsters, etc. 
* DE can reportedly be fed on a continuous basis to larger animals and livestock for continuous parasite control and mineralization.
* Do NOT use heavily in carpet too much DE causes vacuum problems.
* Pool filter grade diatomaceous earth has been heat and chemically treated and will poison an animal or human who ingests it, so it is always of utmost importance to only obtain organic DE to use in and around your household.
* Remember, DE will kill beneficial insects as well, so use accordingly.

Tips and Suggestions:
Have a look at my posts using DE:
*  Chickens for Fresh Eggs  
For more Fabulous ideas for your pets and garden have a look at these pages:
*  Home and Garden Index
*  The Furry Pets and Friends Index

References, Additional Reading and Shopping:

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21 May 2013

Healing Bulbinella


Amazing HEALING Properties of BULBINELLA (Bulbine frutescens)
INDIGENOUS TO South Africa
This plant should be a part of every South African Garden.  It has a stunning array of yellow flowers, and it's medicinal properties are amazing.  It withstands drought, survives frost. My little girl already knows to go pick herself a leaf and rub it on any scratch or wound.  Fun for kids to be their own doctor! 
Bulbine frutescens
Part of plant used:
Leaf and leaf gel
* Split the fresh leaf and apply the gel direct 

Health Benefits:
* Rashes & Eczema - Just squeeze a bit of the leaf sap onto affected area.
* Apply direct to sunburn, burns & scalds
* Apply direct to Blisters
* Apply direct to cracked lips, fever blisters, cold sores,
* apply to pimples
* Apply direct to help get rid of ringworm & herpes
* Apply direct for relief from insect bites & Stings
* Apply direct Chapped skin, eczema, skin irritation

Cosmetic Uses:
- Mix sap into creams, shampoo for its excellent moisturizing properties.

Pet Care:
Note: Not harmful if your pet licks it off
* Rub leaf sap onto sores and rashes
* Apply direct to sunburn, burns & scalds
* Apply direct for relief from insect bites & Stings
* Apply direct Chapped skin, eczema, skin irritation
* All purpose Wound Healer


Tips and Suggestions:
*  For more fabulous animal caring tips have a look my Furry Pets and Friends  or the Natural Health & Beauty Index page
* Please Comment and share your experiences.


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18 May 2013

Hoof Oil

HOOF OIL FOR HORSES
My beautiful horse - (Thunder) hooves started looking very dry and flaky.  After looking at a horse shop I realized that the ingredients within hoof oil can very easy be made at home.  Here is the recipe.  It definitely worked for my horse after only a few treatments.  Both the lavender & the tea tree oil are amazing healers, and will deal with any possible infection.  

Ingredients:
250ml Linseed oil
15 drops Tea tree oil
10 drops Lavender oil
Method:
Mix all together and either put into a spray bottle or into a normal wide mouthed bottle to be painted on the horses hooves.


Tips and Suggestions:
* For more on Horses and other animals have a look at my Furry Pets and Friends index page
* Please comment and share your ideas and recipes.


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Horse Sarcoids


HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY TREAT SARCOIDS ON A HORSE
This is my story on how I treated my horse successfully for a sarcoid.  This story occurred quite a few years ago now, and I  have been meaning to share it ever since, as I am sure I am not the only horse owner out there who has had a sarcoid on their horse. After a lot of research and trying to locate ingredients.  A lot of trial and error, and a lot of patience, I eventually won the battle of the sarcoid!


Definition:
The Equine sarcoid is a form of skin tumour or cancer.  The tumour is restricted to the skin and immediate region under it, however some aggressive forms there is local tissue damage. It does not spread to the internal organs.  The disease is problematic and very difficult to treat.  There are about 6 different forms of sarcoids. 

The road to healing:
My horse got a large lump on the sheath of his groin.  His vet said it was caused by a type of fly larvae that normally affects cattle (bovine papilloma virus) and to inject him with dectomax to kill the larvae.  This helped the swelling reduce. Then it grew back, a wart like growth appeared in the same spot as the swelling, and another growth appeared under his stomach on the girth line.  He also has a slight swelling on his eye. My vet suggested injecting again with dectomax to kill the larvae, but it did not help this time.   The vet took samples of the sarcoid, and cut and quarterized the one out from under his stomach.  The large sarcoid on the sheath of his groin lost the top part of it after another dectomax injection, and is since looking a bit bloody.  Our vet here suggested taking him through to our local horse hospital to get the sarcoid on his groin removed.  I was hesitant as the cost is horrendous and after phoning the horse hospital learnt that the chances of re-growth of the sarcoid are high (about 50%).  A couple of smaller sarcoids started growing around the large one on his groin, and another sarcoid started under his left eye. 

At this stage I took over:
I was desperate, the sarcoid was growing daily at a crazy rate.
The many attempts, External treatment:
- I sprayed the sarcoids with a combination of tea tree oil and echinaforce. 
- I also tried the juice from aloe leaves, and collodial silver as a spray.
- I also tried a cream at great cost called 'Aldara' for cancer growths. 
- I also tried a cream I made from the 'euphorbia ingens' mixed together with aqueous cream.  I am trying a mixture which worked well on my friend's horse of Euphorbia ingens. She applied it neat, but the milk separates after a few minutes, so I am liquidising parts of the plant in aqueous cream and then applying.
Some of these helped for awhile, but none even remotely got rid of the sarcoid.  By this stage the sarcoid was triple the size of the photo shown above. I realized I needed a more action after much research I found a recipe for 'Cansema' the main ingredients being blood root (Sanguinaria canadensis) and Zinc Chloride. 
NB: I would suggest that you research your options and discuss options with your vet first before going this route. 
Internal treatment:
During the entire stage I boosted my horse of a combination of tissue salts (2/3/4/6/7/12 to help with cleansing his blood and to help his skin) vitamin C, a pro-biotic (protexin) and a multi-vitamin boost for horses. 
and the Final attempt, External treatment:
This is the recipe I used.  It is a preferred paste for melanoma and all suspect skin cancer like lesions. This paste also works well for all manner of cancers provided that they have become exposed to, or close to the surface of the skin.

 Ingredients:
1/2 cup powdered Blood Root (Sanguinaria Canadensis)
1/2 cup Zinc Chloride, crystals or liquid
1/2 cup common white flour
1 1/2 cup warm water
100ml Chaparral extract or 100gm of powdered Chaparral (Larrea mexicana)  I used Sutherlandia* extract instead, as I could not get hold of Chaparral extract in SA. 
Method:
- Pre-soak the blood root & zinc chloride in the water overnight. 
- Mix in the flour.
- Heat mixture in a stainless steel double boiler.
- Stir in the Chaparral (or in my case Sutherlandia) using a wooden spoon. Cook for thirty minutes over boiling water, stirring constantly.    
- Allow to cool.
- Put Vaseline around the cancer edge so that the paste does not irritate the skin.
- Apply a layer (2-3mm) of the paste over the affected area and cover with a bandage for 24 hours.
- Then remove the covering but do not disturb the lesion at all,
NB: do not attempt to pull the cancer out at any time, it should fall out in 10 days or so.
- I needed to apply this treatment waiting 2 weeks before each application.  But it worked!!!  (on a sarcoid which was by this stage the length of my hand!)

* Sutherlandia is a plant which is indigenous to the west coast of South Africa and is well known as a helping healer for cancer.

Where to get the ingredients in South Africa
If like me you battled to get these ingredients in South Africa.  After a heck of amount of research, and phoning around.  I had success with getting:
- Blood root from A. White chemist (Tel: 021-4653332 or visit them at 61 Plein Street, Cape town.) 
- You will probably be able to also order the Chaparral from him, however I substituted the Chaparral for 'Sutherlandia' which is more freely available in SA. 
- The Zinc Chloride I got from B&M Scientific (Tel: 021-9338132 in Parow, Cape town)

I hope this article helps your beloved furry friend, as it did mine.  


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