Fruits of My Hands: Scissors in the Garden

Fruits of my garden.

I have to admit that my eyes sometimes roll around in my head when I go to a blog to look at textiles or art and all I see are the artist's flowers.... Well, this summer I had a bit of a conversion experience as I tackled my yard. I planted flowers and foliage, cleared a plot of land for a vegetable garden and labored to fight invasive vines, grasses, and weeds. I pulled, yanked, tilled, watered, seeded, and did my best to coax a yard which had been neglected for decades into something productive. Every bug in the book came to feast and then weird spots and molds showed up on my precious babies...

My baby veggies, so eager to live!

When you nurture something from a seed, there is a great source of pride and fascination to see it grow into a plant, especially if it also feeds you. At least, this is true for me. I have always had a few potted plants, but had never really tried to be the backyard gardener. I figured farming was in my blood and it should come naturally. Ha! I planted everything too close and had no idea that a tomato plant could grow to be over six feet tall. My friend, Tom, is the director of Angelic Organic's Learning Center. I called him for help and he recommended that I read John Jeavon's book, How to Grow More Vegetables (and fruits, nuts, berries, grains and other crops).

How to Grow More Vegetables and Fruits (and Fruits, Nuts, Berries, Grains, and Other Crops) Than You Ever Thought Possible on Less Land Than You Can Imagine

What a great resource! Of course, I had done everything wrong, but there was still time to correct some of the mistakes. The soil was nitrogen poor so I added some organic fertilizer and started a compost pile.

Garden plot in June 2009

Some things grew very well, while others got eaten up by bugs or a pest. I had the best luck with tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, cucumbers, and pumpkins. Oh, and I got lots of wonderful basil!

Garden plot in August 2009

The sweet peas dried up with the heat of summer, the lettuce shoots up into large stalks, I did get some green beans, but then a worm got on to them, and forget the broccoli! My goodness, did that get infested! Jeavons and other authors in books I checked out from the library, all talked about what can feast on your precious plants. But, the worst of all are snails and slugs. Jeavons described how they go slug hunting at night, so I figured I should go out one night with a flashlight and take a look. The slugs were everywhere! It revolted me so much that I was almost sick! I had nightmares from them, big, fat, slithering monsters invading my veggies and chomping away. How disgusting! I tried the salting and that was too horrific to endure, plus it is not good for the soil. So, I bought pellets, similar to "Sluggo" which are approved by organic gardeners. The slugs eat them and dry up in a few days. But, one slug can lay 300 eggs, so it's a long process, especially if your neighbors are indifferent to what lives outside their doors.

My cucumbers, zucchini and green beans.

It has been fascinating to go outside and decide what I am going to eat that day based on my little harvest! I feel sad to see that Fall is upon us and that soon I won't have these delicacies. My respect for my peer artist friends who also garden has grown. I was just in Chicago visiting friends and a few of them had some gorgeous gardens, all of which renew the spirit and provide beauty to the eye. My friend, Roberta, is a ceramic artist and her garden is adorned by sculptural pieces.

Roberta de Oliveira's garden in Chicago.

Chris and Joyce won a neighborhood award for their garden. Their goal was to do away completely with grass and the result is a lovely mix of flowers and veggies.

Chris an Joyce's garden in Skokie.

The most surprising garden I was across the street from my husband's apartment. He lives in a densely populated urban area on Chicago's north side. A couple of Vietnamese women have taken up a bunch of the grass areas and planted vegetables. Apparently, they are out there every day, bent over their plants, and they share the produce with whoever wants it.

Vietnamese women gardening in Chicago.

Chicago has made a commitment to become the greenest city in the United States and has even established a successful green roof program, so I guess I should not be surprised to see any plot of available earth being used to grow food.

However, there has been a consequence in my ability to produce another fruit: I have only touched my scissors to cut off veggies and bad leaves, no fabric! This is the age-old pattern of the farmer/crafter. Food is the priority in the summer months and the time for waiting becomes dedicated to production of functional goods. For centuries, people have worked the soil and then used the winter months for projects which can be done inside the home.

One of my favorite photographers on Flickr, Baba Steve, has caught many of the vendors from around the world. These places also produce many of my favorite crafts!

Vendor in Assam, India by Baba Steve

1. West Africa, 2. Tajikistan, 3. Darjeeling, India, 4. Pakistan
All photos by Baba Steve

In fact, the production of handicrafts and farming are recognized as partner industries by most development organizations. The Peace Corps has combined the two in their strategies for decades. They were the ones that brought Scandinavian sweater knitting patterns and techniques to the indigenous Quechua of Otavalo in the 1960's. This has grown into a multi-million dollar industry with traditionally dressed Otavalo Indians selling sweaters in markets all over the world. (See some consequences.) Oxfam International works with similar groups in Asia, Latin America and Africa. The United Nations reports on how poverty is especially dire in rural areas and how the internet has become the new tool to bring income into these distressed areas.

Vendor in Afghanistan by Baba Steve.

Does that sound familiar? Am I not doing the same thing? I live in a small town in Kentucky where job opportunities are limited. My income is mostly generated by my online stores. A friend of mine from Ghana told me how now business is all done on cell phones, both by farmers and handicraft traders. Having the ability to live where you grow your food and make your craft also has deep implications in how societies are able to structure their family units, preserve their traditions and maintain ownership over their land, a problem that USAID identifies for many struggling communities who live in rural or forested areas.

No, I will not roll my eyes anymore at other bloggers who garden and love their flowers. Whether our scissors are inside, cutting some fabric or thread, or outside, harvesting some fruits, we are all part of this wonderful tapestry that makes Earth a better place to live!

Making some earth...

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Fruits of My Hands: Scissors in the Garden

China+Chicago+Clothing=August 27 A.M. All Year Long!

Lou Hong was born on August 27 in China. An easy way to remember her birthday, it is also the name of her clothing line and a day that reminds her of roots and beginnings. I've been trying to remember when I first met Lou- I know we were both selling at a craft fair in Evanston in the early 1980's. Lou had recently arrived from China. She had long, glossy hair all the way down her back, a brilliant smile, and a wonderful ease of self. We were both in our mid-20's, full of dreams and hopes for the future. At that time, she worked for a children's clothing design company, traveled a lot, and in her spare time, made her own clothing.

Lou Hong
Chicago Clothing Designer, August 27 A.M. Inc

Twenty years later, the hair is cropped short and Lou is a mature, efficient business woman with an established clothing line of her own. She remains one of the most positive people I have ever met. Hard work has made many of her dreams come true. Lou owns a building in Bridgeport, a South side Chicago neighborhood, which houses her and her showroom and workspace and she bought an old farm house and some acreage in Indiana which has been slowly getting a second lease on life through her creative eye.

AUG 27 A.M. INC. 1115 W 31 Street Chicago, IL 60608

Lou found the direction she would take her clothing style early on. Loose fitting, conducive to layering, raw, serged seams, contrasting fabrics and that hint of the Orient has been her stamp all along. The continuity makes her clothing timeless. A piece made ten years ago easily complements something made this year. She also keeps her business small, introducing new, comfortable fabrics with each season. This strategy makes her clothing a great investment as they are not fashion dependent and her line is always fresh and interesting.

August 27 A.M. introduces new outfits regularly. Tops and bottoms look great together, but are also sold seperately. Comfort clothing with flair, often in neutrals with a splash of accent, any one of these quickly becomes a favorite.

I especially like the skirt and top combinations. They remind me a bit of Victorian travel photos I have seen, yet without the constrictions.
A neutral set like this ivory top and pants could be worn on its own or as an under layer during the colder months.For those really cold days, imagine yourself wrapped up in one of these warm, snuggly tops:



Lou has a wonderful gift. She understands fabric: how it drapes, the texture, the ability to flatter many different body types, and ease of care. These garments are perfect travel wear. Yet, they also have the flexibility for more formal occasions, all depending on how they are accessorized.

Like it? Love it? Buy it! Visit August 27 A.M. online for direct purchases, or if in the Chicago area, visit Lou at her showroom. She also has a healthy list of stores around the country on her website which carry her line. If you have a business and would like to carry August 27 A.M., you can also visit her booth at one of the trade shows. Contact her for current schedules.

August 27 A.M.'s booth at a trade show.

It's been wonderful to witness Lou develop her skills and business. My hope is that she will continue to create these treasures for many years to come! Thank you, Lou, for all your good work and for that wonderful smile, still bright after all this time!

China+Chicago+Clothing=August 27 A.M. All Year Long!

The Silk Road: A History of Mystery, Riches and War, A Future For Fair Trade

Syrian Brocade by Arabian Nights

Adventures on the Silk Road

If the story of cotton is sung out in tears and lament, the story of silk makes for epic movies of conquest and desire. As a fiber, silk's resilience, strength, luminosity and sheen made it a coveted material in long times past and continues to hold us like a magnet in today's fashion industry, even with our short attention span. I don't think I knew what a time consuming and fragile operation it was to work with the silk worms until I read one of Pearl S. Buck's novels. I can't remember which one it was, but the care of the mulberry bushes, which feed the worms, was carefully described. As my passion for textiles increased, stories of the Silk Road, also captivated my interest.

The route between China and Europe first started through the desire to conquer the unknown territories lying west of the Han dynasty:

"In 138 BCE, Zhang Qian (pronounced JANG-CHYEN) set out through the tall stone gates of Chang’an, the capital of Han dynasty China. He rode at the head of a caravan of 100 Han soldiers, riding into the dusty, unknown lands to the west. Zhang Qian was an officer of the Han imperial guard and he had volunteered for a critical mission. ... In the end, Zhang Qian’s adventures led to the start of a long march of merchants across great stretches of land and through wide spans of history. The trade links which resulted from his first trek and later expeditions opened regular trade between China, India, the Roman empire and all the areas in between." Monkey Tree

That route became traveled by rugged, determined merchants for centuries. The merchants carried many treasures, but of these, silk was the most prized, thus naming the route as "The Silk Road". One of my favorite books, Textiles of Central Asia by Janet Harvey devotes a section to the importance of silk to the trade:

"So great was the value of the knowledge of sericulture that legend has it China kept the secret for over two thousand years, until the day came when silkworm eggs were smuggled out of the country. We learn of a Chinese princess who was betrothed to the King of far-off Khotan. Apparently he was a king with knowledge and forethought, for the envoy sent to escort his bride was told to advise 'the Royal Princess of the East' that 'her new country possesses no silk or quilting, and has neither mulberry nor silkworm. These will be needed if she is to have clothes made'. The princess supposedly left China with eggs of Bombyx mori and seeds of the white mulberry hidden in her headdress. Once established in Khotan in Eastern Turkestan, and doubtless elsewhere beyond China, sericulture spread westwards along the trade routes to become a lucrative home-industry for town and village households throughout Central Asia." (page 57)

Turkman robe in ikat silk pictured on Turkotek

Turkotek is a wonderful online resource for anyone interested in Asian textiles. Members show each other photos and help determine origin, technique and history around the pieces. They are extremely knowledgeable and make for a fascinating read.

Mystery and Intrigue Around Silk
Even as silk made its way to other countries, it was often horded by the royalty and nobility. Commoners were relegated to cotton or cotton/silk blends. In time, it became established as a cottage industry throughout Asia. Although factories have standardized cultivation of the silk worm and mulberry trees, it continues as a mainstay industry in many of the areas where silk has been grown for centuries. This video shows a Bengladeshi group working with silk:



Jim Thompson, an American who came from a family of textile producers, saw this kind of production in Thailand and became very interested in marketing Thai silk to interior designers and high end decor outlets. At that time, Thai silk had been dying out and his efforts revitalized the industry making Thailand one of the centers of the most beautiful silks found today. Jim Thompson founded the Thai Silk Company, still thriving today, built a beautiful compound and established a large collection of Asian art. There is a catch. Jim Thompson had also been a CIA agent during the war. Speculation leads some people to believe that his work with silk and his interest in art was actually a cover for his continued CIA work. His story ends as one of the biggest mysteries of the 20th Century:

William Warren writes about
Jim Thompson's mysterious disappearance.

The Unsolved Mystery: "On Easter Day, 1967, American businessman and founder of the modern Thai silk industry James H. W. Thompson disappeared while supposedly on a stroll in the jungle-clad Cameron Highlands in Central Malaysia. The circumstances were unusual, and led to a massive search and investigation. Neither Jim Thompson nor his remains has ever been found…

After he vanished, Jim Thompson became the subject of a second legend, a mystery that has never been solved. The facts were first recounted by William Warren in 1970 in his book The Legendary American. Today, many people in Thompson’s circle are no longer living. Now the author, who knew Thompson well, is able to write more freely. This revised edition contains new material on Thompson’s private life and his alleged role as a CIA agent, drawn from interviews with people close to the events. The result is this definitive account of a true-life mystery of international proportions." Description from The Jim Thompson House Museum Shop

Other books have been written about his disappearance, but nobody knows what really happened...

Francine Matthews is one of the speculators who embraces the CIA theory in her book The Secret Agent. She says, "Thompson is believed to have quit espionage entirely around 1948 in order to become a silk trader. But when I looked at the map of Thailand—and later visited Khorat myself—I guessed that he'd journeyed into the hinterland so often in those early Thai years in order to run agents for U.S. intelligence. By 1949, the communist Mao Zedong was triumphing to the north and the colonial wars of Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos were just heating up. Revolt was everywhere, and revolt was of concern to Washington. To shroud his covert activities from scrutiny in Bangkok, particularly after the authoritarian coup of 1947, Thompson needed a plausible cover job. One of the few things the dust of Khorat will grow is mulberry trees. Mulberry trees feed silk worms. And to Jim Thompson's delight, silk was a product he could promote the world over."

As she investigated the book, Francine Matthews tells one of Thompson's peers what she thought about his death, "I told her that I thought Thompson had never ceased working as a spy, and that when he journeyed to Malaysia on that final weekend of his life, he intended to meet someone—an agent, a contact, perhaps his killer—in the jungle of the Cameron Highlands. I said I believed that he possessed a vital piece of information the Thai government wanted suppressed: the identity of the regicide who had shot the young king of Thailand, Rama the Eighth, on June 9, 1946—paving the way for an authoritarian coup. I added that I thought Thompson had threatened to reveal the details of that old tragedy, and had been silenced as a result."

Thompson's story does not end with his disappearance. Six months after his death, his sister also meets with an untimely end. She is murdered during a burglary, which many think was an attempt to locate Thompson's will. After her death, the Thai government seized his art collection in Thailand, but his house was made into a museum, the second most visited tourist destination in Thailand.

Silk Sweatshops

Given the labor involved in silk production, how is it that we can today get a silk shirt at Walmart for under $20? Seems to me that a low price like this is a certain indication that its provenance is not a good, happy place under a mulberry bush. Instead, it most likely comes from a sweat shop, forced or child labor, located somewhere where real costs are not being counted in to the final price. Yes, China has had a terrible history concerning sweatshop and forced labor. But, the United States also continues to harbor horrible scenarios where workers are chained to their sewing machines, locked into rooms and not allowed access to the outside world, and forced to give their labor for nothing. Stories about these atrocities periodically make the news and most are within the garment industry using either Mexican or Chinese immigrants as virtual slaves.

The Historical Development of the Sweatshop is a great article showing how this problem has come down to us through centuries of abuse.

Silk and Fair Trade

Fair trade Cambodian silk scarf from The Rainforest Site

Google "fair trade silk" and you will come up with hundreds of links to silk products made by fair trade groups around the world. One of the most interesting efforts I had heard of several years ago was a group working in Colombia. They were trying to find an alternative to the cocaine industry that would bring in as much revenue for the small farmer. I couldn't find the original group I had known about, but I saw that other groups have continued the effort.

Silk production comes with internal problems concerning its harvest which bother vegetarians, vegans and animal rights activitists. TreeHugger ran an interesting article entitled : Is Silk Green? which looked at these issues to determine the value of silk within the green movement. If you look at it, make sure to read the comments as well. In order to harvest a coccoon with one long continuous thread, the moth inside must not be allowed to exit the coccoon, so it is killed by exposing the coccoon to a heat source. Some fair trade groups allow the coccoon to exit and thus need to spin the fibers, raising the cost of the thread. But, to many small groups in remote areas, silk production is a viable industry that allows families to make a living on their native land while maintaining family structures and cultural traditions. Certain breeds of moths also no longer survive in the wild as development encroaches on their terrain. Thus, in my opinion, cottage industries working with silk provide us all with both a wonderful material and a connection to an interesting past.

The lesson here is, if you buy silk, buy fair trade. And, watch your back. Don't go around giving away any local secrets to men in black...

Amazon.com Widgets

The Silk Road: A History of Mystery, Riches and War, A Future For Fair Trade

The Costume Page, A Most Wonderful Resource

Have you heard of The Costume Page? Are you interested in clothing design, apparel throughout the ages? Do you have many, many, many hours at your disposal to explore this extensive list? The Costume Page is a resource that compiles links to websites with costume related information. Julie Zetterberg Sardo, who developed the site, states:

"Welcome to The Costume Page, my personal library of costume and costuming-related links. I'm sharing it for the benefit of those who study and/or make costumes: costumers, students, historical re-enactors, science fiction fans, professionals, amateurs, dancers, theatrical costumers, trick-or-treaters, writers, researchers, and all those interested in fashion, textile art, and costume history.

There are over 1,000 unique links listed on these pages. Some of them cover more than one area of interest. I recommend that you browse through all sections of The Costume Page if you don't immediately find what you're seeking. I've tried to cross-reference where possible, but you're likely to find some additional gems if you dig!"

The subjects are divided into the following topics:

Home | Reference | Museums | History | Topics | Ethnic | Theatrical
Organizations | Events | Schools | Instructions
Halloween | Other Lists
Materials | Accessories | Costumes

Each of them opens the door to a vast compilation of links. Of course, my favorite is the Ethnic tab. This one is divided into:

Africa | Asia & India | Western Europe | Eastern Europe and Siberia
Near & Middle East | North, Central & South America | Pacific Islands

The linked sites are varied and include documentation of historical costumes, how-to pages, and ethnographic information. Photocollect deals with old photographs such as the Japanese warrior below. They target museums and private collectors as clients.


Macedonian Folk Embroidery offers samples of embroidered clothing and patterns such as the one below:


Maya Adventure has a page on woven symbolism in Mayan textiles.

Those three are just a small sampling of what is available in the ethnic section. There is a lot more on Japanese kimono, Indian saris, Middle Eastern garb, African wraps and a huge section on European costumes.

The Costume Page is especially rich with information on Western historical fashion. The Middle Ages, Renaissance, and Medieval links are fascinating! Footwear of the Middle Ages is one example of an excellent overview of how shoes were made, what tools were used, and what the various designs meant in that period.


One of the Paducah artists had a costume party last year with a 1960's theme. Another one used a flapper theme. I used this site as an idea place to figure out what to wear for both parties. Sometimes you just need to look at some good images to get some inspiration. This is the place to come.

There are also many links that have excellent educational resources for kids (or adults who like to play...). David Claudon Paper Dolls has a huge selection of designs from all over the world through the ages. My sister is home schooling her kids and I can just imagine her using these as teaching aids.

The Costume Page is an invaluable resource for theater people, designers, historians, and anybody just curious enough to poke around the site. I can only thank Julie Zetterberg Sardo for putting such an excellent collection at our disposal. Thank you for all your hard work!

The Costume Page, A Most Wonderful Resource

Ralli Quilts: The Book & New Arrivals on Rayela Art

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I wrote a post early on about how I fell in love with ralli quilts, patchwork and appliqué quilts from Pakistan and India. I have been buying as many as I can afford and have a bunch of new ones available for sale in my Etsy store and a couple on eBay. They arrive filthy and I machine wash them in a big industrial washer at the laundromat, testing to see if they will fall apart. Most are between 20-50 years old, ranging in price from $60-$200, depending on the workmanship, condition and how much I paid for them. All the ralli photos in this post are ones that I recently posted. Click on the image and it will take you to the listing with more photos, dimensions, price and other info.

I also purchased the book, Ralli Quilts by Patricia Ormsby Stoddard. This is THE resource for ralli quilts, comprehensive in documentation of photos, techniques, symbolism and historical roots. I believe that ralli quilts will be the next Quilts of Gee's Bend craze. They have the same organic, spontaneous, naive appeal that brought so much attention to the women of Alabama.

I have not had time to read the book in depth, but would like to highlight some interesting ralli info Patricia Ormsby Stoddard speaks about in her book. The intro itself is fascinating as Patricia describes her trip into the harsh and remote areas where the quilts are found:

"We were accompanied by Pakistani friends and a police escort. I'm sure our arrival was quite an occasion in some of the small villages where we stopped. In one place, a woman asked, through a translator, where we were from. I answered, "America," and she asked "What's that?" Later, I thought maybe I should have said Islamabad or just a city north of here. With little transportation or knowledge of the outside, her world was only the limited area she knew." (page 6)

She continues,
"As I traveled throughout the ralli region, I, a stranger, was greeted warmly by the women. Their willingness to share their quilting tradition and handiwork was obvious. Their smiles came quickly. Their flair for color is obvious in their work. They painstakingly continue the textile crafts that has been handed down for generations. They carefully form patterns and symbols from cloth, some simple and some complex. The women making these quilts rely on their own memories and the memories of their mothers and older women to teach them the patterns. They do not use paper or any tools to make their patterns. I remember on one occasion giving a woman a pencil so she could draw a picture of a pattern she was trying to explain. She apparently had never used a pencil and just made a big circle on the paper. The ralli compositions are in the women's minds and memories and they execute them with great skill in needlework." (page 7)

When I read this, I thought, "Oh, my..." I always sketch out what I am going to do to at least have a general idea of where I am going in my quilts. I can understand having a pretty simple image in your head, but in some of the more complex ones, I would have gotten completely lost if I were doing it. On the other hand, others, uh, could use some guidance... Some of the ralli quilts I have purchased have been pretty shocking in the fabric selection or choice of colors, but somehow this also adds to the freshness of it all.

Patricia describes the village life of the different areas she visited. Here is an excerpt from her visit to Kutch, an area which is extremely rich in wonderful textiles besides the ralli quilts:
"The women take care of the house and children and may sell embroidery to add to the family income. Textiles are part of the family treasures. Using quilting, appliqué and embroidery to decorate, the women make quilts and quilt covers, pillows and bags as well as clothing. Women wear tightly fitted, brightly embroidered blouses with full skirts made from ten to twelve meters of cloth and a shawl (odhani). Interestingly, embroidery is prized for its beauty and commercial value but quilts symbolize a family's social position and wealth. Quilts are often seen inside homes piled neatly on tables or chests, sometimes with a special quilted or embroidered cover." (page 25)

My favorite quilts from the ones I have are cotton that have been dyed with what I thought were veggie dyes. Apparently, these are chemical dyes that are available in local markets, but that are not very good and fade over time, a quality which I personally find attractive. I like the softness that time gives the colors. Patricia talks about the history of dyeing and how there is now a resurgence in using veggie techniques again. (page 40)


When the ralli has been assembled and is ready for the quilting stage, the quilter invites the other women from neighboring houses for a "rallee-vijhanu". (page 43) Each woman stitches at least one line to help keep the quilt together, normally a whole morning's activity. Then, the quilter finishes it herself, filling in the quilting between the larger spaces the other women worked on. She will also contribute her time when another neighbor needs help getting her ralli finished. This is such a nice touch, reminiscent of our own historical quilting bees, where a whole community is reflected in one piece.
Patricia has an extensive section in the book that traces ralli designs to ancient pottery shards of the region. She states that the checkerboard patterns are common in both pottery and quilts. (page 118)

Newer quilts, from the 1970's on use fabrics that are colorfast, including rayon, polyester, silk and other synthetics. These can be very bright and bright in color value. Intricate quilts are made for weddings and other special occasions, while simpler ones, using whole cloth or larger pieces of fabric, are for every day use.

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Often times, they are made of worn shawls that have pieces that can be salvaged or commercial fabrics which may be over-dyed.

Ralli Quilts has an extensive section dedicated to appliqué techniques used in different regions. Some are absolutely stunning in their intricacy, almost looking like lace. I have not been able to get any of the good ones, but have one simple quilt available that is at least a sample of that style. The workmanship on it is not the best, which probably means it was made by an older woman with poor eyesight or a young one, just learning. There are many efforts out there which try to help widows and older women use their sewing skills for extra income.
My hope is that these quilts will someday achieve the recognition they deserve and truly become a source of real income for these women, many of whom are extremely poor. This is always the pleasure for me, in working with these textiles- the knowledge that we can help create and sustain a market for people who still live connected to both the earth and to each other, whether they are here in our own neighborhood or in a remote village in Ralli Land.

Ralli Quilts: The Book & New Arrivals on Rayela Art