TAFA: The Textile and Fiber Art List

Showing posts with label Costumes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Costumes. Show all posts

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Vintage Victorian Stereograph Cards on Rayela Art

Veiled Arab Woman Stereocard, Late 1800's

A local antique store here in Kentucky recently had a moving sale and I found a bunch of interesting stereo cards. For those of you who are not familiar with them, these cards were popular in the late 1800's and early 1900's until movies replaced them. The card has two images which, when viewed through a stereograph, becomes a 3d image.

"The Eskimo at Home" Stereogram


Conexion has a wonderful article on the history of the stereograph, from which I took the following excerpt:

"Between the 1840s and the 1920s, stereographs served as an important method of entertainment, education, and virtual travel—predecessors to contemporary forms of media such as television and movies. As Burke Long argues, “Mass-produced and relatively cheap, the integrated system of mechanical viewer and photographs became fashionable for classroom pedagogy, tourist mementos, and parlor travel to exotic places of the world” (90).

People viewed stereographs at homes, schools, and churches, gazing at images documenting almost every subject imaginable from
astronomy to zoology. According to stereograph collector and historian William Darrah, stereographs were used to teach millions of American children about geography, natural history, and a range of other subejcts (50). Many in the nineteenth century embraced photography as a medium that, unlike other arts such as painting, presented the “truth” through exact rendering of a scene.

Stereographs seemed even more real and more engaging by simulating three dimensions. Oliver Wendell Holmes called stereographs “sun sculptures” and commented, “All pictures in which perspective and light and shade are properly managed, have more or less the effect of solidity; but by this instrument that effect is so heightened as to produce an appearance of reality which cheats the senses with its seeming truth” (16)."


Hindu Fakirs, India, Antique Stereogram

I've always liked these images and look through them whenever I am in stores which carry them. Rarely do I find anything that I would seriously want to keep. But, these images interested me as they recorded ethnographic information regarding dress and lifestyle of a time gone by. I am always curious to see what kind of language was also used back then, especially regarding people from other countries or native Americans. The example below is of particular importance as it describes the Philippine villagers as insurgents:


Stereograph cards used many different types of viewers, but the most common were hand-held devices, similar to the one pictured below:


Stereoscopes and stereo cards have made a recent come-back. The photo above comes from a do-it-yourself tutorial by Dick Oakes on 3-d photography and there are plenty of other resources online.

Visit my Etsy store to see the cards and view more detailed information. I think they would look great framed!
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Friday, December 12, 2008

Björk, The Canvas of a Modern Viking

Björk, a blank canvas, mutates as needed.

Last night I just happened to catch the movie "Dancer in the Dark" on cable. I missed the beginning, had never heard of it or of it's star, the famous Björk. Shows how in tune I am with what's going on in the world...


The story is about an immigrant woman who loves music and theater and is losing her sight. Set in 1946 Washington State, Selma (Björk), struggles with poverty and saves her pennies for a surgery which can save her son from the same fate she faces. A friend steals her money, she kills him and ends up convicted for murder. Tears flowed down my face at the end, when she is hung, one more testament to me, against the death penalty.

"Dancer in the Dark" and Björk both captured me with the sadness, gentleness and rhythm of the story, the music and the filming. I suppose it can be described as a musical as the plot takes periodic breaks for Björk's voice and accompanying choreography, wonderful rhythms of stomping and industrial noise. Here is a clip:


The movie is already eight years old, so it's old news to most out there. But, I liked it and after it finished, I wanted to find out more about Björk.

Ha! She's Icelandic! My Gislason roots got all warm and fuzzy. I watched a bunch of her songs on YouTube and read a bit about her. I ended up with mixed feelings about her work. Many of her videos had special effects that didn't do much for me. The photo below is shows a still from one of them where these wormy, inky blobs travel around her face, out of her eyes, into her nose, around and around.... The black ink from the aliens on X-Files were more convincing....

Many of the videos also had animation and techno stuff that didn't appeal to me at all. Maybe it's a generation gap. But, what drew me to her in the movie, that face that lit up, transforming plainness into beauty and sensuality, was replaced instead with images that spoke to me of self-annihilation and futility. I kept reading until I finally understood that Björk is the embodiment of the modern Viking. She destroys preconceptions, replacing them with potential transformations into the new.

Politically active, Björk speaks loudly for the environment, Tibetan independence and other social justice issues. Once the Vikings settled in Iceland, they quickly became one of the most democratic societies of their time. The harsh land could not support the population unless they worked under strict guidelines of cooperation. Months of cold darkness encouraged the development of crafts, literature and music. Icelanders also resisted Christianity for a long time, until they were finally forced to hide their runes and hide their pagan ways.

I don't know what Björk believes, but I now see her a nymph or a blank canvas that reflects both nature and humanity. Her Slavic features allow her to take on the guileless simplicity of innocence, of childhood, of the elf or imp. Or, she morphs into the vamp, the seductress, the praying mantis who will eat its mate. Björk's music seems to call to the soul, while her body becomes a canvas, one element within a larger picture of transformational art. She says on her website that she photographs herself so that a visual tone can help the viewer understand her music.

The photos in this post are all from Björk's website and give a small sampling of her many persona:





What an inspiration for fiber artists and costume designers! Each photo achieves a mood and message through the textures, colors and ornamentation by the costume. I ended my research feeling deep respect for this woman and look forward to her future evolutions.

I did find one video that I liked that seemed to represent Björk, Iceland and all this creative energy moving purposefully over a volcanic land. In "Who Is It?" Björk becomes an ornament, a timely performance for this Christmas season!



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Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Three Iranians Bow Down to a Baby Jew...

Felted Nativity by Beneath the Rowan Tree

A highly unlikely scenario these days, don't you think? But, apparently, it did happen a couple of thousand years ago. Christmas is coming and with it, the same stories and images we hear and see over and over again every year. Sometimes it's good to revisit them, poke them a little, and maybe expand the images we carry in our heads.

We think of the three wise men as vaguely coming from the East with flowing robes and large turbans. The Biblical text is found in Matthew:

The Visit of the Magi

Matthew 2 (NIV)

1 After Jesus was born in Bethlehem in Judea, during the time of King Herod, Magi from the east came to Jerusalem 2 and asked, Where is the one who has been born king of the Jews? We saw his star in the east and have come to worship him. 3 When King Herod heard this he was disturbed, and all Jerusalem with him. 4 When he had called together all the people's chief priests and teachers of the law, he asked them where the Christ was to be born. 5 In Bethlehem in Judea, they replied, for this is what the prophet has written:

6'But you, Bethlehem, in the land of Judah, are by no means least among the rulers of Judah; for out of you will come a ruler who will be the shepherd of my people Israel.'

7Then Herod called the Magi secretly and found out from them the exact time the star had appeared. 8 He sent them to Bethlehem and said, Go and make a careful search for the child. As soon as you find him, report to me, so that I too may go and worship him. 9 After they had heard the king, they went on their way, and the star they had seen in the east went ahead of them until it stopped over the place where the child was. 10 When they saw the star, they were overjoyed. 11 On coming to the house, they saw the child with his mother Mary, and they bowed down and worshipped him. Then they opened their treasures and presented him with gifts of gold and of incense and of myrrh. 12 And having been warned in a dream not to go back to Herod, they returned to their country by another route.

I was raised as a PK (Pastor's Kid), so I've heard, sung, enacted and seen the story a gazillion times. You know, the pat version that has gotten engrained into our popular culture these last two thousand years. Sermons often do try to address the origin of these three men, what their gifts mean, downplaying the role of magi and making them into kings. Magic and astrology are NOT embraced by Christianity and here it is, smack in the heart of the biggest story in the Bible. So, of course, there is more to it, right?

I went to Wikipedia first to revisit background information. They sure do a good job of providing comprehensive data on almost any subject under the sun! Without getting too deeply into it, here are a few points that caught my eye:
  • "Magos" actually refers to a cast of Zoroastrian priests, probably Persian, which is modern day Iran.
  • We know them by three names, Caspar, Melchior and Balthasar. But, there are many variations, including a belief by Chinese Christians that one of them came from China. The three faces that now seem so familiar to us were popularized in the 12th Century and formalized by the 15th. They represent the three stages of life: young, middle aged and old, as well as the three known worlds at the time: Europe, Africa and the Orient.
  • The first known artistic images of the three wise men (3rd Century) show a much different picture than what we are familiar with today:

One of the earliest known depictions from
a third century sarcophagus.
Similar attire continued for a few more centuries:

Byzantine art usually shows the Magi in Persian dress (breeches, capes, and Phrygian caps). Mosaic, ca. 600.Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna, Italy - restored.
  • Finally, the symbolism behind the gifts: "Many different theories of the meaning and symbolism of the gifts have been advanced; while gold is fairly obviously explained, frankincense, and particularly myrrh, are much more obscure. They generally break down into two groups:
    That they are all ordinary gifts for a king — myrrh being commonly used as an anointing oil, frankincense as a perfume, and gold as a valuable.
    That they are prophetic — gold as a symbol of kingship on earth, frankincense (an incense) as a symbol of priestship, and myrrh (an embalming oil) as a symbol of death. Sometimes this is described more generally as gold symbolizing virtue, frankincense symbolizing prayer, and myrrh symbolizing suffering." Wikipedia

Let me sidetrack here. I ran into that Byzantine mosaic several times. It's in the public domain so everybody is using it, I guess. The most interesting version was on this site called The Irish Origins of Civilization, a long, very long rant about how all as we know it started in good old Ireland. I have a tender place in my heart for the Green Emerald... Coming from Icelandic descent, there's a drop or two of blood from that part of the world running in my veins... (Danish men bopped Irish women on the head and carted them off to Iceland, right?) Anyway, if you are bored and looking for something very long to read that plays with the origin of all things, check it out. Here is a snippet:

"The term Israelite has its etymological origins in the term Iesa, the Druidic Christ. A high initiate of the Cult of Iesa was known as an "Iesa-ite" or, as it has come down to us, an "Israelite." The Israelites were worshippers of the sun, stars, and zodiac.

The Three Wise Men (referring to the mosaic above) - the Magi who followed the bright star (the sun) to the birthplace of Jesus (Iesa). This artist clearly shows the three travelers as Caucasian. The number 3 is used in the bible as a symbol representing the Druids and their gnosis. The three gifts they bore are all symbols of the sun. The gifts identify the magi as members of the Solar Cult.

They were the stellar priesthood of Ireland, and closely associated with the Chaldean and Egyptian magi. We find them obliquely referred to in the New Testament "Nativity" story. Apparently, three of their number followed the sun (the bright star in heaven) and visited the birthplace of Jesus, the king of light. It appears that the authors of the bible wished to incorporate information about the Druids early on in the story of Jesus. The references to the "three kings" and "three shepherds" are cryptic references to them, or to members of their worldwide colleges. The bible, however, does not elaborate on the visiting magi or explain why and how they came to a remote inn when Jesus was being born there."

Huh? Sorry, but there's not enough Irish in me to swallow all of this without a really, really big spoonful of sugar... I wondered if the Zoroastrians laid claim to the three men from the East. Sure enough, I found that Farsinet embraced the story, although with a slightly different twist on symbolism:

"While oftentimes conflicting lore muddles the story of the Magi, those bearing gifts for the Christ child are Caspar of Tarsus, Melchior of Persian and Balthasar of Saba. Weary from desert travel, the Magi humbly offer their gifts. Caspar is young, European and offers gold. Gold finances the Holy Family's coming flight to Egypt and also symbolizes Christ's immortality and purity. For his generosity, Caspar receives the gifts of charity and spiritual wealth. Melchior is middle-aged, Persian and offers myrrh. Myrrh is a fragrant gum, which the ancient Israelites believed to strengthen children. This symbol of Christ's mortality was blended with wine and offered to him on the cross, and also mixed with aloes to wrap his body for the tomb. Melchior receives the gifts of humility and truth. Balthasar is elderly, Ethiopian and offers frankincense. Frankincense is a resin used in incense for worship and also symbolizes prayer and sacrifice. Balthasar receives the gift of Faith. And Christ, humbling himself to become man, offers us the greatest gift of all, the light that forever burns in the darkness. "


This version uses similar references to origin as the medieval sources. It also goes on to talk about Marco Polo's reference to a visit he made to where the three wisemen were buried:

"In Persia is the city called Saveh, from which the three Magi set out when they came to worship Jesus Christ. Here, too, they lie buried in three sepulchres of great size and beauty. Above each sepulchre is a square building with a domed roof of very fine workmanship. The one is just beside the other. Their bodies are still whole, and they have hair and beards. One was named Beltasar, the second Gaspar, and the third Melchior."

Wikipedia confirms this and also mentions that the Shrine of the Three Kings at Cologne Cathedral still contains the bones of the three kings.

All very interesting. A Turkotek discussion on Zoroastrian clothing caught my eyes as I travelled the Google road. Turkotek is a wonderful resource for any textile enthusiast, especially concerning Central Asia. Expert members share their knowledge over different textiles that they find. In this discussion, they examine a pair of brightly colored bridal trousers, beaded and embroidered.



Apparently, women by the 19th Century wore these bright colors, while men unadorned costumes, much more subdued than the women. The mosaic suggests richer garb for the men of Jesus' time, but perhaps styles can change quite a bit in several hundred years...

This was about all the time I was willing to give to expanding my thoughts on the three wise men. Perhaps it is a big mind boggling to think of Iranians giving a baby Jew any kind of obeisance today. But, let us remember two things. In the first place, there was strife in the air two thousand years ago, too. After the wise men left, Herod had all babies under two killed as he was afraid the infant Jew would threaten his throne. Secondly, that whole region of the world shares much more in common than they do in difference. I believe that despite the blood shed of recent history, the people want peace. They are cousins and with good leadership (their own!), they can once again find not only tolerance, but prosperity and good will. At least that is my hope. And, I believe that is the gift the wise men saw in that little baby, the King of Peace.

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Sunday, November 30, 2008

Thanksgiving's Day of Mourning: Plymouth Pilgrims Slaughter their Native Hosts

Samoset speaks English to the British colonists

Today is the last day of a long Thanksgiving weekend here in the United States. As a Sunday, many of us are recovering from too much food and from the beginning of the Holiday shopping season. Friday is called Black Friday here, where for decades now, mobs swamp department stores in search of good deals and discounts. In response to the post I did, Lincoln's Thanksgiving: What They Wore, a friend sent me an e-mail with the following article. It's depressing, a downer, but I feel compelled to post it.

Let me couch it with a couple of things. History is subjective. Period. Anyone recording what they see and experience do so from their perspective and that is always limited. However, in order to aspire to a "bird's eye view", stories should be told from a variety of perspectives. The story of Thanksgiving as an inter-racial bounty between whites and natives is so deeply ingrained in our American psyche that most of us will pass that on down to our kids.

I don't know what children are learning in school these days, but growing up overseas, we were fed beautiful stories about how this country developed. There were about 15 other American families in our city and the adults all made every effort to instill in us a sense of identity as an American, so we celebrated all the holidays.

I remember one Thanksgiving play we did in our church, all of us kids dressed up as pilgrims or Indians. I have a vague memory of making a silver buckle out of foil, so I think I was a pilgrim. The most vivid part of this faded memory is that there was a popcorn popper that failed to work when it was supposed to, but came to life in the wrong scene, making us all fall down with laughter. So, maybe we didn't get the historical facts down right. Do we just toss it out? I know that Thanksgiving has been a time in my life where giving thanks and honoring friends and family has been important.

I guess we could just dump the historical side and make it a simple day of thanks. Or, maybe we can acknowledge history for all the good, the bad and the ugly it represents, and aspire towards those values we wished the Pilgrims and Native Americans shared: cultural respect, sharing of resources, and the building of community.

I've found some images that relate to the article. Click on them to visit their source.

The Real Thanksgiving

Quoted from: The Hidden History of Massachusetts

Much of America's understanding of the early relationship between the Indian and the European is conveyed through the story of Thanksgiving. Proclaimed a holiday in 1863 by Abraham Lincoln, this fairy tale of a feast was allowed to exist in the American imagination pretty much untouched until 1970, the 350th anniversary of the landing of the Pilgrims. That is when Frank B. James, president of the Federated Eastern Indian League, prepared a speech for a Plymouth banquet that exposed the Pilgrims for having committed, among other crimes, the robbery of the graves of the Wampanoags. He wrote:

"We welcomed you, the white man, with open arms, little knowing that it was the beginning of the end; that before 50 years were to pass, the Wampanoag would no longer be a free people."

But white Massachusetts officials told him he could not deliver such a speech and offered to write him another. Instead, James declined to speak, and on Thanksgiving Day hundreds of Indians from around the country came to protest. It was the first National Day of Mourning, a day to mark the losses Native Americans suffered as the early settlers prospered. This true story of "Thanksgiving" is what whites did not want Mr. James to tell.

What Really Happened in Plymouth in 1621?
According to a single-paragraph account in the writings of one Pilgrim, a harvest feast did take place in Plymouth in 1621, probably in mid-October, but the Indians who attended were not even invited. Though it later became known as "Thanksgiving, " the Pilgrims never called it that. And amidst the imagery of a picnic of interracial harmony is some of the most terrifying bloodshed in New World history.

The Pilgrim crop had failed miserably that year, but the agricultural expertise of the Indians had produced twenty acres of corn, without which the Pilgrims would have surely perished. The Indians often brought food to the Pilgrims, who came from England ridiculously unprepared to survive and hence relied almost exclusively on handouts from the overly generous Indians-thus making the Pilgrims the western hemisphere's first class of welfare recipients. The Pilgrims invited the Indian sachem Massasoit to their feast, and it was Massasoit, engaging in the tribal tradition of equal sharing, who then invited ninety or more of his Indian brothers and sisters-to the annoyance of the 50 or so ungrateful Europeans. No turkey, cranberry sauce or pumpkin pie was served; they likely ate duck or geese and the venison from the 5 deer brought by Massasoit. In fact, most, if not all, of the food was most likely brought and prepared by the Indians, whose 10,000-year familiarity with the cuisine of the region had kept the whites alive up to that point.

Massasoit and Governor Carver

The Pilgrims wore no black hats or buckled shoes-these were the silly inventions of artists hundreds of years since that time. These lower-class Englishmen wore brightly colored clothing, with one of their church leaders recording among his possessions "1 paire of greene drawers." Contrary to the fabricated lore of storytellers generations since, no Pilgrims prayed at the meal, and the supposed good cheer and fellowship must have dissipated quickly once the Pilgrims brandished their weaponry in a primitive display of intimidation. What's more, the Pilgrims consumed a good deal of home brew. In fact, each Pilgrim drank at least a half gallon of beer a day, which they preferred even to water. This daily inebriation led their governor, William Bradford, to comment on his people's "notorious sin," which included their "drunkenness and uncleanliness" and rampant "sodomy"...

The Pilgrims of Plymouth, The Original Scalpers
Contrary to popular mythology the Pilgrims were no friends to the local Indians. They were engaged in a ruthless war of extermination against their hosts, even as they falsely posed as friends. Just days before the alleged Thanksgiving love-fest, a company of Pilgrims led by Myles Standish actively sought to chop off the head of a local chief. They deliberately caused a rivalry between two friendly Indians, pitting one against the other in an attempt to obtain "better intelligence and make them both more diligent." An 11-foot-high wall was erected around the entire settlement for the purpose of keeping the Indians out.

Any Indian who came within the vicinity of the Pilgrim settlement was subject to robbery, enslavement, or even murder. The Pilgrims further advertised their evil intentions and white racial hostility, when they mounted five cannons on a hill around their settlement, constructed a platform for artillery, and then organized their soldiers into four companies-all in preparation for the military destruction of their friends, the Indians.

Pilgrim Myles Standish eventually got his bloody prize. He went to the Indians, pretended to be a trader, then beheaded an Indian man named Wituwamat. He brought the head to Plymouth, where it was displayed on a wooden spike for many years, according to Gary B. Nash, "as a symbol of white power." Standish had the Indian man's young brother hanged from the rafters for good measure. From that time on, the whites were known to the Indians of Massachusetts by the name "Wotowquenange, " which in their tongue meant cutthroats and stabbers.

Who Were the "Savages"?
The myth of the fierce, ruthless Indian savage lusting after the blood of innocent Europeans must be vigorously dispelled at this point. In actuality, the historical record shows that the very opposite was true.

Once the European settlements stabilized, the whites turned on their hosts in a brutal way. The once amicable relationship was breeched again and again by the whites, who lusted over the riches of Indian land. A combination of the Pilgrims' demonization of the Indians, the concocted mythology of Eurocentric historians, and standard Hollywood propaganda has served to paint the gentle Indian as a tomahawk-swinging savage endlessly on the warpath, lusting for the blood of the God-fearing whites.

But the Pilgrims' own testimony obliterates that fallacy. The Indians engaged each other in military contests from time to time, but the causes of "war," the methods, and the resulting damage differed profoundly from the European variety:
  • Indian "wars" were largely symbolic and were about honor, not about territory or extermination.
  • "Wars" were fought as domestic correction for a specific act and were ended when correction was achieved. Such action might better be described as internal policing. The conquest or destruction of whole territories was a European concept.
  • Indian "wars" were often engaged in by family groups, not by whole tribal groups, and would involve only the family members.
  • A lengthy negotiation was engaged in between the aggrieved parties before escalation to physical confrontation would be sanctioned. Surprise attacks were unknown to the Indians.
  • It was regarded as evidence of bravery for a man to go into "battle" carrying no weapon that would do any harm at a distance-not even bows and arrows. The bravest act in war in some Indian cultures was to touch their adversary and escape before he could do physical harm.
  • The targeting of non-combatants like women, children, and the elderly was never contemplated. Indians expressed shock and repugnance when the Europeans told, and then showed, them that they considered women and children fair game in their style of warfare.
  • A major Indian "war" might end with less than a dozen casualties on both sides. Often, when the arrows had been expended the "war" would be halted. The European practice of wiping out whole nations in bloody massacres was incomprehensible to the Indian.
According to one scholar, "The most notable feature of Indian warfare was its relative innocuity." European observers of Indian wars often expressed surprise at how little harm they actually inflicted. "Their wars are far less bloody and devouring than the cruel wars of Europe", commented settler Roger Williams in 1643. Even Puritan warmonger and professional soldier Capt. John Mason scoffed at Indian warfare: "[Their] feeble manner...did hardly deserve the name of fighting." Fellow warmonger John Underhill spoke of the Narragansetts, after having spent a day "burning and spoiling" their country: "no Indians would come near us, but run from us, as the deer from the dogs." He concluded that the Indians might fight seven years and not kill seven men. Their fighting style, he wrote, "is more for pastime, than to conquer and subdue enemies." (photo: Narragans & Roger Williams)

All this describes a people for whom war is a deeply regrettable last resort. An agrarian people, the American Indians had devised a civilization that provided dozens of options all designed to avoid conflict--the very opposite of Europeans, for whom all-out war, a ferocious bloodlust, and systematic genocide are their apparent life force. Thomas Jefferson--who himself advocated the physical extermination of the American Indian--said of Europe, "They [Europeans] are nations of eternal war. All their energies are expended in the destruction of labor, property and lives of their people."

Puritan Holocaust
By the mid 1630s, a new group of 700 even holier Europeans calling themselves Puritans had arrived on 11 ships and settled in Boston-which only served to accelerate the brutality against the Indians.
Pequot

In one incident around 1637, a force of whites trapped some seven hundred Pequot Indians, mostly women, children, and the elderly, near the mouth of the Mystic River. Englishman John Mason attacked the Indian camp with "fire, sword, blunderbuss, and tomahawk." Only a handful escaped and few prisoners were taken-to the apparent delight of the Europeans:

To see them frying in the fire, and the streams of their blood quenching the same, and the stench was horrible; but the victory seemed a sweet sacrifice, and they gave praise thereof to God.

This event marked the first actual Thanksgiving. In just 10 years 12,000 whites had invaded New England, and as their numbers grew they pressed for all-out extermination of the Indian. Euro-diseases had reduced the population of the Massachusett nation from over 24,000 to less than 750; meanwhile, the number of European settlers in Massachusetts rose to more than 20,000 by 1646.

By 1675, the Massachusetts Englishmen were in a full-scale war with the great Indian chief of the Wampanoags, Metacomet. Renamed "King Philip" by the white man, Metacomet watched the steady erosion of the lifestyle and culture of his people as European-imposed laws and values engulfed them.

In 1671, the white man had ordered Metacomet to come to Plymouth to enforce upon him a new treaty, which included the humiliating rule that he could no longer sell his own land without prior approval from whites. They also demanded that he turn in his community's firearms. Marked for extermination by the merciless power of a distant king and his ruthless subjects, Metacomet retaliated in 1675 with raids on several isolated frontier towns. Eventually, the Indians attacked 52 of the 90 New England towns, destroying 13 of them. The Englishmen ultimately regrouped, and after much bloodletting defeated the great Indian nation, just half a century after their arrival on Massachusetts soil. Historian Douglas Edward Leach describes the bitter end:

"The ruthless executions, the cruel sentences... were all aimed at the same goal-unchallengeable white supremacy in southern New England. That the program succeeded is convincingly demonstrated by the almost complete docility of the local native ever since."

When Captain Benjamin Church tracked down and murdered Metacomet in 1676, his body was quartered and parts were "left for the wolves." The great Indian chief's hands were cut off and sent to Boston and his head went to Plymouth, where it was set upon a pole on the real first "day of public Thanksgiving for the beginning of revenge upon the enemy." Metacomet's nine-year-old son was destined for execution because, the whites reasoned, the offspring of the devil must pay for the sins of their father. The child was instead shipped to the Caribbean to spend his life in slavery.

As the Holocaust continued, several official Thanksgiving Days were proclaimed. Governor Joseph Dudley declared in 1704 a "General Thanksgiving" -not in celebration of the brotherhood of man-but for [God's] infinite Goodness to extend His Favors...In defeating and disappointing. .. the Expeditions of the Enemy [Indians] against us, And the good Success given us against them, by delivering so many of them into our hands...

(Governor Joseph Dudley pictured in photo at left. He was also somewhat involved in the Salem Witch Trials and was later accused by Boston merchants of being in league with smugglers and illicit traders. Wiki)

Just two years later one could reap a ££50 reward in Massachusetts for the scalp of an Indian-demonstratin g that the practice of scalping was a European tradition. According to one scholar, "Hunting redskins became...a popular sport in New England, especially since prisoners were worth good money..."

References in The Hidden History of Massachusetts: A Guide for Black Folks (C)(C) DR. TINGBA APIDTA, ; ISBN 0-9714462-0- 2

Interview of Samoset with the Pilgrims

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Thursday, November 27, 2008

Lincoln's Thanksgiving: What They Wore

The hat Lincoln wore when he was assassinated.

Today is Thanksgiving Day here in the United States, a National Holiday. President Abraham Lincoln made it official in 1863, 145 years ago. The country was a blood bath: Civil War, Native Americans and white settlers fighting for land, slaves escaping through the Underground Railroad, all leaving misery in their wake. Today Thanksgiving has been reduced to "Turkey Day", a topic I looked at on yesterday's post. We gorge ourselves, indulging in the sin of gluttony, surrounded by people we hopefully love.

My intention is not to belittle the holiday, on the contrary, I think it is a beautiful occasion where we can stop, take a breath, think about the blessings we have been afforded, and rest with people who are important to us. But, we teach our children and uphold falsehoods about our history. The story about "pilgrims and Indians" can be looked at another day, as I zoomed in on Lincoln and his time for today.

Lincoln at the Battle of Antietam, 1862

I had not read Lincoln's proclamation before, so I looked it up and found it quite interesting. Instead of dissecting it with my sermonoligies (new word! like it?), I offer it to you with some images of the time. What people wore tells stories more vividly than I can with words. Click on the images to visit the source, many of which are fascinating! (One note, though: The official celebration of Thanksgiving was a political statement on the Union, rather than a memory of thanksgiving for the Native Americans who saved the first settlers.)

Proclamation of Thanksgiving

Washington, D.C.October 3, 1863


This is the proclamation which set the precedent for America's national day of Thanksgiving. During his administration, President Lincoln issued many orders like this. For example, on November 28, 1861, he ordered government departments closed for a local day of thanksgiving.

Sarah Josepha Hale, a prominent magazine editor, wrote a letter to Lincoln on 28, 1863, urging him to have the "day of our annual Thanksgiving made a National and fixed Union Festival." She wrote, "You may have observed that, for some years past, there has been an increasing interest felt in our land to have the Thanksgiving held on the same day, in all the States; it now needs National recognition and authoritive fixation, only, to become permanently, an American custom and institution." The document below sets apart the last Thursday of November "as a day of Thanksgiving and Praise."

According to an April 1, 1864, letter from John Nicolay, one of President Lincoln's secretaries, this document was written by Secretary of State William Seward, and the original was in his handwriting. On October 3, 1863, fellow Cabinet member Gideon Welles recorded in his diary that he complimented Seward on his work. A year later the manuscript was sold to benefit Union troops.

By the President of the United States of America.

A Proclamation.


The year that is drawing towards its close, has been filled with the blessings of fruitful fields and healthful skies. To these bounties, which are so constantly enjoyed that we are prone to forget the source from which they come, others have been added, which are of so extraordinary a nature, that they cannot fail to penetrate and soften even the heart which is habitually insensible to the ever watchful providence of Almighty God.

Mary Todd Lincoln in her inaugural gown, 1861

In the midst of a civil war of unequaled magnitude and severity, which has sometimes seemed to foreign States to invite and to provoke their aggression, peace has been preserved with all nations, order has been maintained, the laws have been respected and obeyed, and harmony has prevailed everywhere except in the theatre of military conflict; while that theatre has been greatly contracted by the advancing armies and navies of the Union.

Black Soldiers

Needful diversions of wealth and of strength from the fields of peaceful industry to the national defence, have not arrested the plough, the shuttle or the ship; the axe has enlarged the borders of our settlements, and the mines, as well of iron and coal as of the precious metals, have yielded even more abundantly than heretofore.

Confederate Uniforms

Population has steadily increased, notwithstanding the waste that has been made in the camp, the siege and the battle-field; and the country, rejoicing in the consiousness of augmented strength and vigor, is permitted to expect continuance of years with large increase of freedom.

Emancipated Slaves, White and Black

No human counsel hath devised nor hath any mortal hand worked out these great things. They are the gracious gifts of the Most High God, who, while dealing with us in anger for our sins, hath nevertheless remembered mercy. It has seemed to me fit and proper that they should be solemnly, reverently and gratefully acknowledged as with one heart and one voice by the whole American People. I do therefore invite my fellow citizens in every part of the United States, and also those who are at sea and those who are sojourning in foreign lands, to set apart and observe the last Thursday of November next, as a day of Thanksgiving and Praise to our beneficent Father who dwelleth in the Heavens. And I recommend to them that while offering up the ascriptions justly due to Him for such singular deliverances and blessings, they do also, with humble penitence for our national perverseness and disobedience, commend to His tender care all those who have become widows, orphans, mourners or sufferers...

Chief Quanah, Comanche leader against white settlers, 1870's

...in the lamentable civil strife in which we are unavoidably engaged, and fervently implore the interposition of the Almighty Hand to heal the wounds of the nation and to restore it as soon as may be consistent with the Divine purposes to the full enjoyment of peace, harmony, tranquillity and Union.

Thanksgiving in Camp, 1862

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the Seal of the United States to be affixed.

Done at the City of Washington, this Third day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, and of the Independence of the Unites States the Eighty-eighth.

By the President: Abraham Lincoln

William H. Seward,Secretary of State

Source: Collected Works of Abraham Lincoln, edited by Roy P. Basler.


We have come a long way since Lincoln's day. Having Obama as President Elect testifies to some of our progress. Much work remains, but today, like Lincoln, my wish is for peace, harmony, tranquillity and Union for you and yours!

Happy Thanksgiving!


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Sunday, October 19, 2008

Ye Olde Renaissance Faire: A Fun Time Had at Grace Episcopal Church

Hear Ye! Hear Ye! Priest Libby Wade of Grace Episcopal Church in Paducah, Kentucky has been sent to the stocks! Here she sits in the hot October sun with her Book of Common Prayer subjecting herself to..... uh, OK, just some fun at Ye Olde Renaissance Faire, put on by her very own Episcopalian members.

Some of them, including the Fair Priest's jailer, took their roles seriously, very seriously... but, whether serious or in jest, the Faire was a joyous occasion on the beautiful grounds of one of Paducah's oldest churches.

Grace Episcopal Church is one of Paducah's oldest and most beautiful churches.

This is the second Renaissance Faire I have attended at Grace. I had a booth with some of my wares and did my henna thing. The Faire has been a small, intimate event in the past, with poor outside attendance which is a shame as it has much to offer. The costumes, of course, announce the theme in full splendor. It's so much fun to see what people come up with! Some rented their attire, while others made their own.


The couple above are veteran Renaissance merchants who have participated in much larger venues in bigger cities. They had the booth next to mine, showcasing their gorgeous garden cement and hand-blown glass ornaments.

Paducah's Lowertown Artists had a tent, represented by some of their colorful characters.

Multi-talented Freda Fairchild, fiber artist, print-maker and jeweler displayed some of her beautiful necklaces.

"Friar" Jay Downs Siska, co-author of Lower Town, Paducah, charmed visitors with stories about the Old Times in Paducah.

Renaissance tunes floated in the air, mixing in with laughter and conversation.

A highlight for me was meeting James Whitworth, known as "Bear" a true Renaissance man in the scope of his abilities. He participates regularly in re-enactments, collects period pieces from several different traditions, has taught himself how to make his own costumes, plays several instruments, including the bagpipe, and has a hilarious sense of humor.

James "Bear" Whitworth in Scottish dress,
entertained with stories, music and humor.

Gloria of the Cookies has a faithful following and sells out of her fantastic offerings. Each one is a perfect piece in shape, taste and texture.

Gloria's cookies are glorious!

Hear Ye! Hear Ye! All Praise be Given to the Needle Traditions!
But, what I really treasure from the event are all the needleworkers giving live demonstrations of their skill. I am always so impressed by how much the Paducah area keeps hidden until these events bring out the talent. It seems to me that the City should really capitalize on this more and have a permanent place exhibiting and educating about all the crafts abundant in the area. Ironically, Quilt City USA, as Paducah is known, had no representatives of its quilting tradition at the faire.

Sandra Benne Doing a Tatting Demonstration

There were, however, several live demonstrations of tatting, lace-making, spinning and weaving.

Pam Crouch, Bobbin Lace Demonstration,
President of the Heartland Lace Guild,
(They meet at Grace Epicopal on the 2nd Friday of every month)

Bobbin Lace, a complex needle art, demands
focus, dexterity and patience!



Spinning, the backbone to fiber art
around the world throughout the ages!



Weaving, that which has clothed us and
kept our homes warm for centuries!


A King and Queen are Chosen
The Faire included a Royal Parade where all the costumed ladies and gents displayed their regal attire. A man and a woman, chosen for most authentic attire, were chosen as King and Queen.

The King of the Renaissance Faire

Yes, Paducah is a small city that may lack many of the amenities offered by more popular tourist destinations or the giant metro areas that have so much fame. But, there is always something fun happening here. Small celebrations of life, creativity, and community make this place special to all of us who choose to live here. Thank you, Grace Episcopal, for hosting this event and extending it to all of us who take so much pleasure from a bit of historical fantasy!

Note: If you know the names of the people photographed, leave a comment here and I will add them into the post.

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