A Flirty Skirt

Now you can faint.

No posts for months.

Then, two in four days -- and both about sewing!

Sometimes I even surprise myself.

I must warn and apologize, though, the photographs are not stellar.

It was either spend time retaking photographs, or actually get this posted.

I decided on the latter.

I started this skirt last summer.  It was never completed for several reasons.

Nothing like an event this weekend to prompt me to pull it out, and give it another go.

The instructions I used are from Anna Maria Horner's blog, and can be found here.

The fabric is a voile from a quilting company.  To me, it seems more like a lawn.  It is the perfect weight for a summer skirt, and I really enjoyed working with the fabric.

 I lined it with a very sheer Swiss batiste.

A few summers ago, I purchased a skirt with a similar shirred waist and loved it.

It is easy to pull down on the hips a little, giving a smoother line and less fluff where many of us do not need more.  Yet, the elastic waist is so comfortable and easy to wear.

For now, it looks great with a white or cream t-shirt or tank and sandals.

I plan to pull in some of the darker colors with tops and cardigans this fall, and extend the wear a little.  It should still work nicely when I have to put away the white jeans and capris and linen slacks, but am not ready for winter wool skirts and slacks.

I have noticed many ready-to-wear summer skirts with hemline tucks.  This is one of my favorite techniques for hemming little girls' dresses.  It is quick, adds a finishing touch, and is very sturdy.  While I may not worry about pulling hems out on the playground, I have been known to rip out hems with my big feet when trying to get dressed too quickly!

For the lining, I simply turned a narrow hem twice, and machine stitched.

Here is a photograph of the shirred waist on the inside of the skirt. 

It gives a better idea of the four rows of narrow elastic casings which form the waistband.

Many mothers complain their young daughters do not like skirts that sit on the waist.

This might be the perfect solution!

The elastic could be adjusted in the casings to better fit the body, as it changes

from waistline to hip area,  Although, most little girls do not have as much variance as us big girls!

I did tweak the pattern a little, cutting my skirt rectangles more narrow to remove fullness.

I believe in trying to make the inside of my garments as finished as the outside, and often use

French seams in my construction.  Even with lightweight fabric, French seams might be too bulky in the waistline/casing area.  Instead, I turned the edge of each seam allowance to the wrong side, stitching close to the edge.

After giving the finished skirt a good pressing, I laid it on the ironing board and smashed the shirring and gathers flat, just slightly, and only for a few inches beyond the bottom casing.  I think it will help the gathers lie more smoothly, looking more like a flirty skirt and

less like a poofy dirndle skirt!

I am so glad this project is no longer in the UFO pile!  While I have not jumped on the maxi dress wagon, I do think this style would be darling in a maxi length.  I may consider that route for another piece of voile in my stash.  If so, I may remove even a little more fullness.

Have you made any summer skirts? 

Shortcake Romper and Dress

A fun little romper for Spring!

I used this pattern, Shortcake Reversible Romper & Dress

by The Cottage Mama.  It includes Sizes 6 Months to 6 Years.

Designer, Lindsay Wilkes, has recently started marketing her cute patterns.

She also has a fun blog, The Cottage Home, filled with scrumptious recipes, tales of being a young mother, and examples of her creative sewing.

Her patterns include excellent instructions, complete with photographs of each step of construction.

This pattern also included a recipe for Lemon Blueberry Shortcake Muffins!

Yum!

My version of the romper used Freckles in blue by FreeSpirit Fabrics and

Treetop in pink from an Oliver + S collection for Moda Fabrics.

This is a Size 3T.

This is a very easy and simple pattern, perfect for beginners, or if you just want to whip up something really, really quickly!  There is no hand sewing at all.  It is all completed by machine.

It probably took me longer to decide on fabrics and trace the pattern, than it did to actually stitch.

The romper is completely reversible, making it two outfits in one!

Both romper and dress tie at the shoulders.

I did add a sweet applique monogram to the blue side.

This is the Rick Rack Monogram from DigiStitches.

I alternated the fabrics for the leg bands, to add a little more contrast and interest to the finished project.  I also applied a lightweight woven fusible interfacing to each  leg band piece.  I believe this added a little stability and gave a more finished appearance.

In all honesty, I thought about adding the interfacing while tracing and preparing the pattern.

In my haste to get to the fun part of stitching, I forgot to cut out the interfacing.

Again, I decided to try and follow the pattern instructions for this first time use.

However, after attaching one leg band, I could tell interfacing would really help.

So, my trusty seam ripper was put into action!

After a few minutes of cutting and applying interfacing, I was stitching again and more pleased with the outcome.

For the dress version, I selected Half Moon Modern Big Dots in Steel by Moda.

I used a solid pink broadcloth for the lining.  While the dress is still reversible, I made it mostly to be worn with the dots as the outer fabric.

The hem is edged with pink rick rack.

The dress is Size 4T.

I really love the more full swing style of this little dress -- perfect for running, skipping and twirling!

I also monogrammed the dress in pale pink to match the rick rack and lining.

The font is Empire, one of my all-time favorites, from Embroidery Arts.

I am cleaning up my sewing room to prepare for a few more projects.

First, I am off to pamper myself with a much needed manicure!

Happy Friday to all!

All fabric and patterns available at BessieMary.

Bunny's Knit Nightie

This is Bunny's Knit Nightie by Children's Corner.

I love that it makes a useful, but still sweet, gift!

I can just imagine cute little baby feet curled up inside the elasticized hem.

The hem may also simply be hemmed, and left completely open.

The shoulders overlap, creating the neck opening.

This allows for easy construction, with no plackets or openings.

It also means ease of dressing baby, and no lumps or bumps to irritate soft skin.

I used an Oliver + S knit by Moda Fabrics.

The print is larger in scale, but still delicate.

Another feature of the pattern that I appreciate, is construction with a regular sewing machine.  No need for a serger.

Pattern instructions include suggested settings for stitch length and width.

The seams are stitched with a narrow and elongated zig zag, allowing them to stretch with the knit fabric.

Seam edges are then finished with a zig zag, too.

Neck and sleeve edges are turned under and zig zagged.

The folded edge is also zig zagged, creating little scallops.

This is one place where I do usually deviate slightly from the printed instructions.

The instructions suggest using an overcast foot, such as the one on the right, for the decorative edge stitching.  For my Viking machine, the "J" foot on the right is the overcast foot.

When used, the fabric edge is usually lined up with the thin vertical wire.  The needle will then zig zag back and forth across this wire.  The purpose of the wire, is to prevent the edge of the fabric from tunneling or rolling during stitching.

My experience has been that it also seems to prevent the little scallop from forming.

I use a regular sewing foot, such as the "A" foot pictured on the left.  This is also the foot I use to stitch the seams.

I often find that I need to increase my tension, as well.  I then use a zig zag lenth of 3.0 and a width of 4.5.  The zig needs to be on the fabric, and the zag just off the edge, to create the little scallop.

I do use the overcast foot to zig zag the gown's seam allowances to finish them.

Every machine is a little different, so testing stitch settings and different feet is a good thing!

The pattern also includes a little hat, knotted at the top, and a bib, booties and blanket.

I am off to the dentist again today.

It seems to be a weekly thing around here lately!

Fabric and pattern available at BessieMary.

Lizzy

This is Lizzy, a new pattern from Bonnie Blue Designs.

I used a raspberry and pink floral from Fabric Finders.

While I love this fabric, it does make the design features of the pattern a little more difficult to discern in the photographs.  They are more visible in real life!

This is the dress with sleeves version.  I love the little gathered cap sleeves!

There is also a sleeveless version that may be worn as a jumper or dress.

I planned on using white pique for the yoke.

However, by the time I cut it out, I must have forgotten!

When I finally made it to my sewing machine with the pieces, I had cut them all from the floral fabric.  So, I plowed ahead!

Beneath the narrow yoke, is a center box pleat with two more pleats on either side.  These are all topstitched for a few inches, before releasing into soft gathers.

Again, the busier floral print does not allow all the details to be seen.

This style is great for those who are not crazy about full gathered skirts.

The pattern is sized to 8 years, and the pleated skirt is a more contemporary silhouette the older girls would probably like.

The dress buttons down the full length of the back, making it very simple to sew.

There are two pleats, repeating those of the front, on each side of the back.

I used floral shaped raspberry buttons, which seem to almost disappear in these photographs.

When I am sewing a pattern for the first time, I tend to sew it as the pattern shows.

In my personal sewing, that is probably not what I would do.  I would be adding my own mark to it with favorite techniques or embellishments.

However, many of my customers will stitch it as the pattern shows.

I believe I must have had that experience also, in order to better assist them.

As I was constructing this little dress, I thought of things I would probably do differently.

I do believe the addition of piping along the yoke and skirt seam would help to create a more finished look.  With this type of print, it would also help to break some of the busy floral design.

I might also add piping to highlight the square neckline.

As part of the general instructions included in most Bonnie Blue Designs patterns, there are excellent instructions on how to make and apply piping.  So it is something that any seamstress could easily attempt with this pattern.

The pattern illustration does show ribbon applied across the yoke of the jumper, with a bow at center front.  That would be another option for adding embellishment and a dressmaker touch.

However, in the smaller sizes, the yoke is 2" or less.

Adding ribbon to this size 2, seemed to take too much room on the yoke and throw things a little out of proportion.  I think piping or another small trim along the seamline would be better for the smallest sizes.

When using a light to medium weight fabric, I would also add a lightweight interfacing to the yoke.  The interfacing might not be as necessary if corduroy, denim or a heavier twill was used.

I did topstitch around the neckline.  I felt it would help reinforce the square corners and the overall finished look.

I do really love the sleeve!

This style is also a little more contemporary, and may appeal to more people than a traditional puffed sleeve.

I also appreciate the fact that it is lined, lending to a very finished look.

One fun thing, which the pattern suggests, is using a coordinating print for the lining. 

With so much white background in this print, the ginghams, plaids or stripes that I auditioned for lining shadowed through too much.  So, I just used white broadcloth.

By the time I was constructing the sleeves, I did decide the dress needed a little something extra.  So, I added green rick rack at the edge of the sleeves.

The pattern instructions have the sleeves applied flat, before stitching the underarm and sides seams.  I prefer to attach my sleeves in the round.

After applying the rick rack, and stitching the lining and outer sleeve together along the bottom edge, I flattened the lining and outer sleeve.  The underarm seam was stitched in one pass, beginning at the lining underarm seam and ending at the outer sleeve underarm seam.  I then folded the lining to the inside, exposing the rick rack and pressed.  Gathering stitches were stitched along the upper edges and the sleeve was applied to the dress in the round, with the skirt side seams already finished in tiny french seams.  This results in no visible raw edges of the underam seam within the sleeve.  With the french seams in the skirt, there are no exposed raw edges there, either.  Especially since the sleeve is lined, I feel this step makes them look even better.

Overall, I really like this pattern.  Next time, I will probably add piping and maybe a few other touches to add even more to the sweet design features.  I also think it would be fun to try an all white heirloom version, maybe with softly gathered lace around the neck and armholes.  It could be sweet for Easter or summer beach portraits! 

Linking to Sew Darn Crafty at Sew Many Ways!

Fabric, pattern and trim available at BessieMary.

Yoke Overlay

My days are currently filled with boxes, packing and very little stitching.

My mind is filled with ideas for Spring and Summer sewing.  I just hope I can remember them when I finally have time to sit in front of the machine!

In the meantime, I decided to share a little dress made a few years ago.

It is just as sweet today, as it was then.

Love that!

The floral fabric from Fabric Finders is no longer available.  The Swiss Edging from Capitol Imports is still available, along with the pattern Baby Square Yokes by Chery Williams.

Making a yoke overlay is a wonderful way to use small pieces of exquisite edgings.

A lovely handkerchief, perhaps passed down through the family, could also be used.

Embroidered fingertip towels, napkins or other vintage linens would also make sweet overlays.

To prevent the floral fabric from shadowing through, I selected a solid white fabric for the dress yoke.

I bound the neck and sleeves, and piped the yoke/skirt seam with blue and white gingham.

Once again, I used gingham for the continuous placket on the skirt.

Just another little special touch on a very special little dress!

Back to packing and thinking of all the things I would rather be stitching!

Snow Day Sewing and Sweets

We are still experiencing snow and ice, so I am staying inside and stitching!

This little jumper, with its sweet heart design fabric, will be perfect not only for upcoming Valentine's Day, but also beyond.

I used Bonnie Blue's Jordan's Jumpers and Dresses for the pattern.

The fabric is from the Moda grouping Sent with Love.

I selected the flat front for the jumper, ruffles on the shoulder straps and cute little gathered pockets.

The slightly gathered back will allow more ease for an active little girl!

With our unpredictable Texas weather, it can be worn with a turtleneck or as a sundress.

Stitching was not the only thing going on here today.

There is something about cold and snowy weather that always makes me hungry for warm homemade bread.

I happened to have the ingredients for these, and they made me and my tummy very happy!

I followed the recipe from the blog,  StoneGable.

 I did find it better to reduce the cooking time to 10-12 minutes, instead of 15.

If you want to kick it up a notch, try the yummy version

shared at  Simple Southern Happiness.

Wishing all of you a sweet weekend!

Linking to Sew Darn Crafty at
Sew Many Ways!

Moda Fabric and Bonnie Blue Designs pattern available at BessieMary.

Sweet Little Wallet

This was a fun  -- and very quick -- little project!

The pattern is one of Valori Wells' Sewing Cards.

The largest pattern piece is approximately 6" x 7".  It is a wonderful way to use up those bits and pieces of fabric.

The pattern called for, and I used, two coordinating quilting fabrics.  However, I can see this with each piece and pocket being a different fabric.

Small scraps of silk would be delightful!

 Consider linen, or another solid fabric, with a touch of hand embroidery -- maybe a small monogram.

There are three pockets.  The first two smaller pockets are perfectly sized for driver licenses, credit cards or business cards.

The slightly larger back pocket easily holds several folded dollar bills or checks.

I made mine with two changes to the original instructions.

The pattern calls for fusible interfacing to be applied to only one piece of the wallet body.  I added interfacing to both the outer and inner fabric pieces.  I also added a piece of fusible interfacing to the outer piece of each pocket.  While I used a fairly light woven fusible interfacing, it seemed to add a little more weight and stability to the overall project.

Turning the wallet right side out, is a bit tricky and probably moreso by my addition of the extra interfacing.  However, I believe the additional interfacing will be part of future wallets, too.

I also used a small piece of voile to cover the snap, before stitching it to the wallet.  It looks a little more "finished", and less obtrusive than a plain silver snap.

Hook and loop tape could also be used.

A decorative button, with buttonhole or loop, is another possibility.

For future projects, I might investigate the use of a magnetic snap.

These would make quick and easy holiday gifts, and be a delightful way to present a gift card.

I plan to carry mine in smaller evening bags as holiday festivities begin.

I think it will be perfect!

Pattern is available here.

E is for Turkey

The letter E is definitely not for "early", as I am running very late with this project!

The pattern is Children's Corner Lucy, shortened to tunic length.

I selected pink twill to coordinate with the purchased stripe leggings.

I adore this Turkey Monogram from Planet Applique!

The letter and bias binding at the hem are FreeSpirit's Freckles in brown.

Due to our cloudy skies today, the colors are a little off in the photograph.

It is much happier in person!

Pattern and fabrics available at BessieMary. 

Meet My Machines

A reader recently left a comment inquiring what type of sewing machine I had.

Unfortunately, there is no way to access an email address or blog to answer her question, so hopefully she will read this post.  All of you also get to meet my machines!

This is the Singer machine on which I learned to sew and my mother made many clothes for herself, my sister, me and a few fortunate dolls!  She also repaired many a knee and seam on my father's weekend work khakis!

In later years, Mother would upgrade twice to other Singer machines.  However, this is the one I especially remember from my childhood.

I do not use it much for sewing, but keep it for sentimental reasons.  I do believe that many of the older machines have the prettiest straight stitch, and I have used it to stitch very straight stitches on very fine fabrics.

During college, Mother gave me a very basic sewing machine. 

  I managed to mend many garments for myself and college roommates and whip up costumes and decorations for my sorority's rush parties.  A few years later, it would churn out simple home decor projects for my post-college apartments, and our first home.  I created a dust ruffle, bumper pads and special sheets and blankets for our son's nursery. 

Little rompers, pants and shorts, Halloween costumes and super hero capes came to life with the assistance of that machine.

Making costumes for Dallas Junior League's Ball, our major fundraiser, my machine and I stitched into the wee morning hours turning out an assortment of sea themed garments for Makin' Waves!  After stitching yards and yards of sequins, polyester and chiffon, I almost swore off ever taking another stitch.

Shortly afterwards, both Mother and Grandmother passed away only months apart.  I was determined the art of sewing within our family would not die with them.

So, I purchased my Pfaff 7550 in 1995.

I had fallen in love with smocking and heirloom sewing along the way.  I wanted a machine with the capability of heirloom stitches, such as Point de Paris and Entredeux.

This was the first computerized machine I had owned, and the learning curve was steep!  I took all the classes I could find.  I poured over pages of Sew Beautiful and Creative Needle, learning all that I could.  I began attending Martha Pullen's School of Art Fashion in Huntsville and local SAGA workshops.

I especially like the built-in walking foot of this machine.  It will always hold a special place in my heart, as the machine that introduced me to heirloom sewing.  I still use it quite often when stitching special little garments.

Of course, then I needed an embroidery machine!

I first purchased a Viking Rose, which I loved except for one thing.  It only accommodated the smaller embroidery hoop, and many designs and monogramming required larger hoops.

Approximately eight years ago, I traded up to the Viking Designer 1.

This is the machine I use for much of my sewing.  I truly love many of the features.  However, I must be honest and admit there are many features that I don't use, and probably never will!  I definitely do not use this machine to its fullest capability, and that is a shame.

It is the machine that has created all of the embroidered or appliqued items I have shared.  Like my Pfaff, it also has heirloom stitches that I use.

When I opened BessieMary approximately five years ago, I purchased this Viking Interlude 435. 

I wanted a smaller machine to keep at the store.  It has also come in handy when traveling for classes and sewing events.  I really enjoy the simplicity of sewing on it.  However, it does not have any heirloom stitches, which poses a problem if I wish to attach lace or Swiss embroideries with the Point de Paris or Entredeux stitch.

Those are my machines!

Well, there is a serger that is banished to the floor of my sewing room closet.  It and I do not seem to speak the same language!

Unless all of these machines suddenly quit, I do not foresee purchasing a new machine anytime soon.  While there are many wonderful new machines on the market, many offer features that I would simply never use.  So, I am quite content with my somewhat obsolete machines!

I do hope that the inquiring reader will stop by and let me know that she has received the answer to her question..  Hopefully, I did not bore the rest of you!

The Great Pumpkin in a Small Size!

Do we ever grow tired of Jack's toothy grin?

I think not!

I selected Children's Corner Lucy, View B, and shortened it to tunic length.  Fabric Finder's orange and white polka dot twill was the perfect background for Ellen McCarn's Ready to Sew Applique, Punkin' Face!

The bottom edge of the top is trimmed with jumbo black rick rack.

I purchased a pair of little black knit leggings to complete the ensemble!



Now, this is making me hungry for candy corn, and all things pumpkin and spice!

~All fabrics, trim, pattern and applique available at http://www.bessiemary.com/