Frida Kahlo House and Museum in Mexico City

Vegetarian in Montevideo, Uruguay

We miss Montevideo, we were living there only a few months ago and it already seems like years. So it is good to go back to the photos while doing this Veg* guide. But first a bit of sight-seeing: this is Palacio Salvo and we were all fascinated by it, especially Max. It looks like something out of a movie, or the tower of terror in Disneyland, or a great place for ghosts... anyway, we never got tired of looking at it!

Montevideo is a very livable city, we walked a lot and loved the old buildings and details (click here to see some of beautiful doors of Montevideo). Less should be said about the pavements, always broken and full of doggy poos :-(. The air in the centre is quite polluted too, and the traffic slow, but all in all this must be the most relaxed and safe capital city in South America.

But how about being a vegetarian here? I googled a few veg* restaurants while there, but they always appeared to have 'dsappeared" or were too far, or difficult to find. I guess guides need to be updated, so here there are only a few suggestions, mostly about places that seem established or food to buy in shops (after all we were mostly cooking at home).

But I was quite surprised to find veg* options in most city centre restaurants. We stopped at El Copacabana, in the main pedestrian street of the city centre, as it had quite a big vegetarian menu. The kids had pizza, and I had the veggie milanesa with salad. To be honest I am not a fan of fake meat, and this wasn't the best, but I was quite grateful to find it.

If you like this kind of meat replacements I found similar food in the large supermarket in Punta Carretas (a former prison successfuly transformed into a shopping centre). Even if you don't speak Spanish it is pretty easy to understand what the packets say. Sadly I didn't like any of them: these are the sort of things that I prefer making myself but, once again, it is good to know that they exist.

Much much much better are the veggie burgers (two types plus two veggie sausages with buns too) at the Bulebar. Our were tasty and full of roasted veggies, with a side of regular and sweet potato fries. And the smoothies are good too. Fun place, the kids loved it!

Then of course there are good market with fruit and veggies, see a few pics here.

And this is Martin, our local baker, we went there almost everyday after school to buy our daily bread (and a few pastries too). There is some good bread in Uruguay, but be careful with the pastry and pies, they may have pork fat, so remember to ask first! Our daily shopping also included the local supermarket, nothing special but it did have tofu, and soy milk, and carrot juice ... as well as many types of pasta, olives, different types of beans, dried fruit and fruit pastes, and nuts.

For a raw energy kick, one positive thing about Montevideo (and South America in general) is the great variety of fresh fruit smoothies - (mostly vegan). Here a few yummy juices (and other drinks) not only in Montevideo, but also in the rest of Uruguay, and also in Chile, Argentina and Peru.

In our Spanish school, La Herradura, they also do cooking classes, and for us they had a special meat free cooking class!

Clockwise from left: Making faina de zapallitos, a zapallito, salchichon de chocolate, fainas de queso (yellow) and de zapallitos (green).

A final note is for Italian restaurants: they are very common, with pasta and pizza everywhere, but please note: they tend to be very "creamy" and "cheesy". Most of the pasta we had was so cover with a cream sauce that the ravioli were swimming in it. The only vegan dish is usually spaghetti with tomato and basil...

Well, I hope that this was useful to you, and if you know the city feel free to add your additions in the comments :-). I miss you Montevideo, and hope to be back one day!

Photos by Alessandra Zecchini ©

Some serious (non-alcoholic) drinking in South America

There is a reason why there aren't photos of wine here (except a strange medio y medio). Well, two reasons really: first I didn't drink much wine, it doesn't really go well with active traveling with kids, second, there is good wine in South America, especially Chile and Argentina, but I mostly just drunk a glass at night in dimly lit restaurants, and the photos were too dark to publish.

But I can easily write a post mostly on some amazing non-alcoholic drinks, because they really give you a sense of the flavour of this part of the word. If you are a wine snob who judges a country by its tannins, well, sorry! But there is some alcohol, I promise, just scroll down to the end. And if you are into smoothies and fruit drinks... read on! 

Jugos y licuados
Juices and smoothies

On the left there is an example of what you get in Uruguay when you order a fruit smoothie. Fruit and water based, they are cheap and they often serve you a full glass plus a jug to refill it. Best flavours for us were strawberry (frutilla), peach (durazno) or the combo with both frutilla e durazno! If you cannot choose go for a tutti frutti, which usually had these plus apple, orange, banana or whatever fruit is available. The only problem is that sometimes they add sugar, so ask for no sugar if you prefer.

In Buenos Aires the extra jug disappears (pity) and strawberry and peach still dominate as the preferred lavours, although but many cafes are really into barley grass, carrot, and other healthy additions. 

In Chile they don't seem to have the strawberry or peach, but their best liquado (fresh fruit juice or smoothie) is definitely raspberry! We also tried cherimoya, but no, we all ordered raspberry over and over again. Try it, ask for frambuesa.

Move to Peru and the choice becomes more tropical: papaya, pineapple and sometimes mango are the tips on offer. Here they tend to do juices rather than smoothies, but the papaya is thick like a smoothie. Above we have from left: papaya, orange, pineapple and melon.

And if you have to choose between a papaya juice and a Inca Kola... don't go for the Inca Kola! This is a super sweet and fizzy drink produced locally by Coca Cola that tastes of yellow food colouring, it may be popular in Peru, but I didn't like it at all! In fact I was surprised to see how many people in South America drink soft drinks. In Uruguay and Argentina I saw people (adults) drinking mostly Coca Cola with their dinner, whatever that was pasta or mains.

Coolest drinking experience in Montevideo

If you are visiting Montevideo a suggest a trip to the Sofitel (unless you are lucky enough to stay there!). The Sofitel is the new name of the beautiful old Hotel Carrasco which was built between 1912 and 1921.  If you have tea or coffee there is a trolly full of delicious pastries to choose from, and if you have a drink... well, the menu is never ending, and the kids and Peter had some lovely virgin cocktails (yes Peter too because he was driving). I had a red wine. But let's look at the interiors first!

Just for fun: the ladies' powder room is entirely lined with mirrors, perfect for a photo chance before trying to find the exit!

Strangest drink in Montevideo: 

This has to be the medio y medio, originally from the Bar Roldos, in the Mercato del Porto (not a market but a place full of restaurants and bars, and grilled meat smoke - very characteristic!). Apparently this is the city's most famous drink, they say that it is half wine (white originally, but red and rose are also available) and half Champagne. I can assure you that there is no Champagne in there, the other half is a sort of cider, and I have no idea why they call it Champagne. If you don't eat meat go and have a glass (just for the experience, not because I think that it is particularly good!) with a sandwich.

Best cultural experience

In Argentina and Uruguay (and parts of Chile) they drink yerba mate. This is a must try, but you need friends to show you how! Or read about it here. 

Getting back to Peru now: 

The sweetest drink (after the Inca Kola) is Chica Morada. It tastes just like the Italian amarena cherry drink. I also had a dessert with purple corn sauce (yes, just like a red amarena cherry sauce...) and I guess that it could be said that this is what real corn syrup is supposed to be like.

More liquid observations

Best beer

Best hot drink

And best cocktail is:

Pisco sour! This is really something different! I liked the look of it, and the taste too, a bit like an alcoholic (but not so sweet) lemon meringue pie drink. In fact the bottom is lemon and the white foam is egg white! Of course when they make it everything is shaken together (except the drop of Angostura that decorates the top) and then the foam rises to the top. There are several videos on YouTube to see how it is made. Vegans rest assured: you can order a pisco sour sin huevo (without egg).

Photos by Alessandra Zecchini ©